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From a new life in spain, to an old life in britain, 'roaming brit' documents uncertain times!

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On 31st January 2016, my partner and I left Southampton to start a new life as Expats in Gran Alacant, on the Costa Blanca. This blog will document our journey, as we navigate the Spanish system, travelling a path untried and untested. With Brexit looming, political turmoil in Europe and an unpredictable future, harsh decisions have to be made. Illness, family bonds and a Change of heart all make for challenging times in a life of a 'Roaming Brit!'
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Asian Adventure - Our Journey Of A Lifetime Comes To An End, 17 May 2019!

27/12/2019

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So my Aunt and I have finally left Cambodia and have started our journey home, after three weeks away. We have had an amazing, eventful time, seen many sites, met many people and visited numerous temples, landmarks and culturally diverse communities. I have walked more than I have ever walked before, tasted weird and wonderful cuisine and flown on eight, yes eight aircraft; for a person like me, who is scared of flying, that is a venture I will probably never undertake again. This has been an excursion of discovery in every respect and I remain astonished by just how much we saw in such a short space of time! This was indeed the holiday of a lifetime, but it was more than that, it was an opportunity very few people get; to taste life on the otherside of the World! For someone like me, a small town, village boy, it was a once in a generation adventure that would open my mind to new experiences and test my psyche to its limits!

We are returning to London with Malaysian Airways, not what I wanted, after the disappearance of Flight 370 in 2014, but an airline I have used in the past, without incident. My Aunt and I arrived at Phnom Penh Airport with plenty of time to spare and queued up to secure our seats for the flight home. We were informed that the Kuala Lumpur to London leg of the trip was fully booked and we wouldn’t be able to sit together. For an anxious flyer like me, that wasn’t the news I wanted to hear and after a brief altercation with the staff accepted the inevitable. This was most certainly a flight I was not looking forward to.

A little over an hour ago, we arrived in one of my favourite cities, Kuala Lumpur after a pretty uneventful flight. I haven’t been here since the year 2000 and the airport has changed out of all recognition. Modern, bright, gleaming and typically Asian. This futuristic few hour stop over has brought back many happy memories, travelling to this part of the World with my husband Darrell. In a way it felt like coming home and I was delighted to be here, even if only for a short time! Compared to some of the airports we have travelled through over the last three weeks, KL Airport is a dream, an Oasis and our final farewell on the last leg of our Asian adventure. This big, brash, shiny palace, is the new gateway to Malaysia and the perfect end to our three weeks away!

Darrell and I have visited Kuala Lumpur twice over the years and have an unbreakable bond with this city. Our connection to KL was born in 1997, when I moved to Australia for a second time. By all accounts it has changed a lot and would be a fantastic place to visit once again in the near future. Returning, even briefly has made me smile, something Darrell and I haven’t done a lot of recently. Some places stick in your heart as a reminder of past adventures, with meaning and poignancy; a few destinations remain strong and steadfast, generating direction and guidance and others give you that warm fuzzy feeling and sense of belonging....Malaysia gives them all. This was the first country Darrell and I really fell in love with. We chatted about the possibility of moving to Kuala Lumpur and dreamt of a future far away from British shores. As I sat in the large cavernous concourse, looking towards the tropical views outside, I became hopeful for the future once again, believing in the positivity travel can bring!

With my anxiety levels running high and my Aunt sat in the seat in front, we left KL Airport, next stop the UK…..

I had a lot of time to think on this busy flight. I am certainly not a person to sleep or relax on such a trip, so reading, writing and remembering the last few weeks was top of my agenda as I drank a glass of red wine. Seeing Darrell, even for a short period of time has been amazing and very much a part of our life together now. Having to travel long distances to see each other is necessary and although a little disconcerting and difficult at times, it does give us the opportunity to see places we wouldn’t otherwise visit. Asia is my favourite part of the World and I have been amazed by this undertaking and aghast at the things I have seen. Crocodile farms, Angkor Wat, the magnificent modern city of seoul and its beautiful gracious people, the cat cafes, Buddhist temples in Vietnam, Chi Lin Nunnery in Hong kong and the darker side of Cambodia’s history in Phnom Penh. Together all these experiences and many, many more have made for an exciting, exhilarating and breathtaking adventure, like no other.

As I look forward to my next escapade, next year in Japan and Thailand, I am mindful of the circumstances that brought Darrell and I to where we are today. Darrell’s Mother remains terminally ill in Australia and my Mum has now tragically passed away. We are lucky to travel as we do, but illness and death has been the catalyst for this tumultuous, tempestuous time in our life. Saying farewell to one another has once again been painful, but our expectations of further crusades across this diverse and stunning region of the World is assured. Until we meet again Asia, keep shining bright, you are the light that always brings us together!
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Asian Adventure - Exploring Phnom Penh, 16 May 2019!

5/12/2019

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This is penultimate day of our Asian adventure, before we fly home tomorrow. We were up bright and early, ready for a packed day of sightseeing and exploring in this city of two million people. When one considers the nine million residents in London, it doesn't seem a huge number in comparison, but it felt far busier than that. As I sat in the restaurant and the top of the Pasteur Hotel, I could see the thronging crowds of people, making their way to work through the streets below. This was indeed a busy city, spectacular in its grandeur, often poor in its construction, but typically modern in its mechanics.

The breakfast at The Pasteur was the best of all the hotels we had stayed in. For someone who doesn't like heights, I felt quite at home and safe in this roof top restaurant. Peering out, I could see the city for miles around. Great Buddhist architectural wonders, mingled awkwardly next to tall imposing tower blocks and wide boulevards of traffic seemed to flow haphazardly, towards the central business district of Phnom Penh. All the wile stark, utilitarian housing, overcrowded and in disrepair, in the middle of constant building works, told me I was in a foreign land. As an observer, looking in, I saw the harsh realities of life in this small Asian country; fascinated by the contrasting sights, sounds and smells, I was surprisingly transfixed and relaxed on this final stop of our tour of the region!
Outside the sun was hotter than anything we had seen on our journey before, as we made our way to our first stop of the day, the Royal Palace. We queued briefly outside and paid our ten American dollar fee to enter the extensive grounds and numerous buildings that made up the palace complex. Lush oriental gardens, stunning monuments and vast cavernous structures, adorned with gold and richly woven fabric greeted us around every corner. By now, as we slowly made our way around this historic compound, the heat was blisteringly balmy and my Aunt and I took shelter whenever we could, buying water from several stalls that had been erected to cater for the needs of tourists.

This impressive Royal Palace, still used by the King of Cambodia was a living piece of history and was the highlight of my stay in the Capital. Cats were everywhere, also trying to take shelter from the sun. Two kittens laid in a flower pot, shaded by green shrubbery, content and happy, unable or unwilling to move. As I walked over to stroke the pair, I noticed messages written on palm leaves, gently swaying in the warm morning breeze; the more I looked, the more words I found. This was a beautiful place, very serene, despite the tourists and a joy to observe. As a fan of all things 'Royal' I have a particular interest in this aspect of a countries history. Whether in Cambodia or at home in the UK, I am always happy to pay homage to a Monarch that gives his or her subjects identity and a link to the past that would otherwise be forgotten.  Cambodia's recent history is a reminder of man's inhumanity to man and the Kings role in bringing his country together after terrible conflict, has ensured his place in the hearts of all those  who live in this nation!
We left the Palace at lunch time and took a walk back to our hotel to freshen up. On our way we passed through the diplomatic quarter, where government buildings sat next to foreign embassies and expensive real estate. As we reached the end of the road, we noticed a small, eclectic looking cafe and decided to pop in for a drink. The Freebird Cafe was owned and run by a rather accommodating gentleman called Henry, who sat with my Aunt and I and his two beautiful cats outside.

The conversation started well enough; talking about our travels around Asia and his life living in Cambodia, but soon we realised Henry was a little different from the norm. Originally from Germany, he described life living with his Father, who was involved in local politics. He spoke of his Father's comrades and his role during the Second World War. By the end of our conversation we were both under no illusions as to Henry's extreme political views and his unorthodox perspective on World War II. Looking back to that day, I really should have been more guarded about who I was and my beliefs, but blinded by the holiday atmosphere, I along with my Aunt agreed to return to 'Freebird' later that evening for a final meal, before we left.
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Don't get me wrong, I thoroughly enjoyed spending time with Henry and his Cats, but I wasn't entirely comfortable with the tête-à-tête I was taking part in, it just didn't feel right.

Henry was clearly a bit of a local character. An Australian woman who lived just along the road, near the British Embassy came in to the cafe and had a brief chat. An elderly Ozzie Ex-pat living in a country she had fallen in love with many years ago. Henry seems to be a well known personality and rightly so. Of all the people I met on this trip, he is the most memorable; a person with a story to tell!

I do get uneasy feelings at times around certain individuals and detected radical undertones during our conversation. Henry clearly has a past he wasn't afraid to speak his mind on subjects that are not usually discussed in this small Kingdom. After an hour and a half we left for our hotel to prepare for the next part of our day, at the Killing Fields, just outside Phnom Penh!
We were picked up at the Hotel by our guide for the afternoon. There were about twenty of us travelling to our first stop Prison S21 in Phnom Penh and the Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum. Here between 1975 and 1979, the Khmer Rough imprisoned, tortured and killed anyone who spoke out against their regime. This was a high security facility at the time and reminders of its terrible past could be seen everywhere.

There was room after room, dingy and dark where beds used for torture, were in situ, very much in the same way they were abandoned in 1979. Everything has remained untouched, blood still staining the walls and floors, bullet holes and chains attached to bars on windows. As one walks along the walkways outside, looking down one can see the gallows, implements used to subdue victims and graves of those who had died. This was a deeply depressing place, commemorating all those who lost their lives during the reign of terror the Khmer Rough perpetuated.

Respectful tourists walked in silence around this macabre compound. Concluding the tour, we observed three areas filled with the photographs of the victims. By the end of it I was left feeling deflated and disturbed at what I had just witnessed. I understood the meaning of this place and am glad I went to pay my respects, but I would never choose to do it again. The harrowing nature of what I saw, will remain with me forever as a reminder of just how evil humans can be!

After Prison S21, we drove outside of the city to the infamous 'Killing Fields.' Thousands upon thousands of people died here. The region is still littered with the debris of the fallen. As one walks around the fields, one is conscious of the bones and fragments of clothes still left in the dirt beneath ones feet. You are told to leave the artifacts in place, as they are still collected each morning carefully by volunteers and preserved for future generations, to understand what transpired in this corner of Cambodia.

Unlike Prison S21, the Killing Fields left me with a feeling of hope for the future. Even the large tree, below which many thousands of people died, now adorned with bracelets of remembrance, left me feeling grateful for the life I lead and thankful that all those who died are remembered each and every day. These were brutal years and the Cambodian people have grown to accept their dark past, hardened to the crimes that were committed in their name. This was a poignant place to end our time in Cambodia, if only to remember all those that made our journey so memorable and giving us the opportunity to understand the history of a Country so recently ravaged by war!
...and finally an evening of home cooked food and more chatter at the Freebird Cafe!

Tomorrow....Time to say goodbye!
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Asian Adventure - Arrival in Phnom Penh, 15 May 2019!

2/12/2019

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We arrived at Siem Reap Airport, with plenty of time to spare. Since we were catching an internal flight, the process of getting through security was a breeze; we more or less walked straight through the gate towards the plane, which was already waiting outside. To my horror, it was one of the small propeller type jets and looked as old as me; my worst nightmare. I had read much about internal flights in Cambodia and none of the reviews were great, so this was not going to be the best part of my holiday.

The flight from Siem Reap to Phnom Penh was in the end pretty non eventful. The trip itself was short, only half an hour long and like most journey's on smaller aircraft you could feel every bit of turbulence, rocking backwards and forwards, at times holding on for dear life. In reality I have a psychological fear of flying, which is totally irrational, but it does make it more difficult for me to fly. Eight flights in three weeks is excessive and I wont be undertaking such an extensive vacation again!
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We took a cab from Phnom Penh Airport to The Pasteur 51 Hotel and Residences in the centre of the city. Driving through the streets I noticed just how different Phnom Penh was to the  more provincial Siem Reap. Building work was taking place everywhere. New apartments, office blocks and shops; modern, sleek and very western in style. This was a growing city, busy, vibrant and full of life. If I am honest, I much preferred the small town of vibe of Siem Reap, but was looking forward to exploring the capital of Cambodia tomorrow, once we had settled in.

The lobby of this well presented hotel had a supermarket attached, serving those living in the immediate area. The Pasteur also has full time residents, residing all year round, who use this well appointed grocery store. I was impressed by the array of goods on offer and the mixture of western and Asian influences on display. It did seem a little odd having a food shop in the hotel, but it worked perfectly well; a place we used often whilst staying here.
Our first stop after arrival was the Sky Bar at the top of the Hotel. These large open entertainment areas seem to be popular in this part of the World. Big awe inspiring terraces, with bars and restaurants, exposed, open to the elements, with 360 degree views of the city below. Phnom Penh was clearly visible, as I gazed across the expanse before me. I asked my Aunt to walk over to the side and take some pictures, having a fear of heights, not wanting to do it myself. The roof top pool was especially impressive, situated on the edge of the tower block, with a sheer drop below! A glass panel was inserted into the corner of the roof, where you could stand, looking down towards the street below; far too scary for me!

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The hotel room was basic but comfortable. We have stayed in many places during our stay in Asia and this was as good as any other, but the impressive Sky Bar, put it up there at the top of our list. I have felt so at home over the last three weeks and couldn't ask for a better place to end our tour of this beautiful region.

Suitably refreshed and relaxed after our journey, we took a wonder outside to explore the area. This was a large city, so as day turned to dark, the bright neon lights came on, in full intense glory, illuminating our way through the narrow streets. Of course this wasn't a capital like Tokyo or London, but even so, you had a feeling you were in a big metropolis, a definite change from the Cambodia we had seen before.
After a few drinks in the Sky Bar, we went to the Pasteur Restaurant at the bottom of our hotel for a bite to eat. The food here was typically Cambodian and tasted delicious.  My Aunt and I chatted about our adventures so far and discussed a busy day planned for tomorrow. We are only in Phnom Penh for a short while, so need to fit in as much as we can in one day.

It was nice to sit back and relax for a few hours in beautiful surroundings. The smells of the food cooking in the kitchen were an assault on the senses, like nothing I have ever encountered before. I began to realise, we were finally coming to the end of our time in Asia and I started to feel sad at everything we were going to leave behind. As reality set in, it was time to head to bed and an early night before our final, mammoth day in a country I had fallen in love with. This was the beginning of the end of our Asian adventure!
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Asian Adventure - Floating Village, 14 May 2019!

10/10/2019

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We had a very calming and tranquil morning today, spending time lazing by the pool. It felt good to finally relax and have some down time. We have travelled extensively over the last few weeks and I am personally feeling rather drained; a few hours in the beautiful tropical gardens of our hotel was just what the Doctor ordered. Just us, an old overweight white man and what looked like his young Cambodian partner, were gently whiling away the hours doing a spot of reading, checking emails and in my case writing, surrounded by amazing scenery, tall palm trees and lush green foliage! The sun was beating down and at 35 degrees, I could feel every bit of it; it reminded me of my days living in Australia; in many respects this was a place I was immediately drawn too!

Lotus Farm
In the afternoon, my Aunt and I had arranged a trip to a lotus farm and floating village at Tonle Sap, near Siem Reap. On our arrival, we were greeted by some of the inhabitants, who asked us to try some fruit from the Lotus flower. The subtle taste was unlike anything I had eaten before. The farm itself was situated in a vast area of flatlands, as far as the eye could see; small pyramids in a sea of green!
The terrain was wonderfully picturesque, rays of sunshine dancing off the pools that surrounded the village and a gentle breeze blowing through, rustling the tops of the lotus plants and agitating what looked like a waterwheel in the centre of the village. In every direction you could hear wind chimes tingling in the doorways of the small pyramid thatched homes where farmers and their families live. The air was clear; no pollution punctuating the air and the smell of other colourful flowers drifted across the landscape; inviting, directing us to a large meeting house at the heart of this small community.
After forty five minutes, we left for the next stage of our visit and a trip to one of the floating villages, Cambodia is famous for!

Floating Village
We arrived at a rather busy port on the lower Mekong Basin, where we would depart on the half hour journey to the middle of this freshwater lake. There were twenty or so boats of differing sizes, many of which looked tired and in a state of disrepair, They were packed with tourists and visitors, all heading in the same direction. Gingerly we walked along the pier, towards our boat, which looked older than any of the other vessels there.
I sat down on one of the old wooden seats and looked around. Above hung life jackets and other tools the tiny crew on this boat would need, all stacked above wooden beams and the tarpaulin roof, already blowing in the strengthening wind. Below our feet the deck boards were laid haphazardly, large gaps in the joints giving us a view of the water below. The structure of the boat was open to the elements and there were leather straps above our seats, so we could hold on as we made our way up the Mekong Delta.
The sound of a loud horn and a plume of rather concerning black smoke, signified our departure. The noise of this ancient boat was indescribable as it shuddered into life. Rocking from side to side, slowly edging us towards our eventual destination. As someone who usually gets sea sick, I was actually dreading this adventure, especially when I saw the state of the boat we would be travelling in, but in reality, I found the journey to the village quite soothing. At times we were passed by other larger vessels, which shook us violently from side to side, but it didn't seem to matter. Obviously I would have preferred a more luxurious craft, but my experience was made more memorable by the conditions we tolerated on our way!
The entrance to Tonle Sap was busy; there were boats carrying tourists and commercial baggage in every direction. As we picked up speed, we could see small villages on the banks of the river, markers directing ships away from the rocky edges and people fishing, with children playing alongside. This was a view alien to a Westerner like me and despite the poverty on display, it was strangely attractive and alluring, completely different to rivers back home.
Eventually we made our way out of the thin channel of water, rather like a road, that directed us to what seemed like open sea. I remember thinking to myself how vulnerable we were, bobbing up and down in the middle of no where and water as far as the eye could see. Looking around, confused, I couldn't see a thing, until we changed direction and headed over the horizon. A wooden marker loomed heavily, telling me we were there. Other small buildings, built on stilts gradually became more visible, until we arrived at the centre, where other vessels were moored; a hive of activity, where tourists mingled with the locals.
As we alighted the boat, I spied a child at the side of the craft next door. He had a large snake around his neck and was parading it up and down, like a trophy he had won. My Aunt, who has a real fear of these creatures was less than impressed, but this was just part of life here in the floating village and really not that unusual in Cambodia.
Neither my Aunt or I were aware of just what was beneath our feet, as we walked around the wooden structure. In order to survive, this river community farm fish and to our astonishment, crocodiles. In the centre of this landing platform  there was a large pit of writhing, hungry, flesh eating crocodiles, all waiting for their next meal. As one looked through the gaps between the boards on the floor, one could see other crocodiles walking about just a few meters below. I think my Aunt was more horrified than me. It wasn't really a place to hang around for long!
Finally we ended our tour of this floating village, with a prearranged dinner on the 'Queen Tara,' a large ship anchored away from the village itself, offering panoramic views of this amazing Cambodian wonder. A floating village, with a school, shops, post office and other local amenities, working in harmony with the environment in which it is situated; a truly magnificent site, looking out across this amazing structure, as the sun fell gently below the horizon.

The food on 'Queen Tara' was basic and typically Cambodian. We sat at a table with Robin and Molly, an Australian couple from Perth, where Darrell is from and two young Asian ladies from South Korea, who usually worked in The Philippines. We chatted for an hour, about our travels and our lives living in different parts of the World. By the time I had finished my third pint, it was time to leave and bid farewell to this unique waterside collective in the middle of what was described as the biggest fresh water lake in Asia. This would be one experience I would never forget!
....and it wasn't over yet....

The sky was dark, there was no light anywhere to be seen. The wind had increased substantially as we made our way back in the boat towards the port from where we came. Half way along our course, smoke started to bellow from the back of the craft. My heart sunk as I realised something was up.

Suddenly the smoke turned to fire, as the back of the ship glowed red. There was panic as the man at the back of the ship ran around the side of the boat, asking for help from the two other crew on board. By now I was also beginning to get scared and fear the worse; I really felt this was it.

Running back to the rear, he started to throw water on the fire, without success, shouting and screaming to his crew mates. I just put my head in my hands and prayed we would all survive. As I opened my left hand, another crew member also ran to the rear and began to stamp the fire out. The smell of thick acrid smoke was terrifying, but eventually the fire was extinguished and we limped home.

This was probably the most amazing experience of my lifetime and something I will never forget. The sights and sounds of the village in the middle of a lake will remain with me forever. The ups and downs of this trip made our journey all the better and as we approach the end of our journey I am grateful we survived to tell the tale!
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Asian Adventure - Angkor Wat, 13 May 2019!

25/9/2019

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'Nary, our host at breakfast is a delight, although the language barrier brings its own challenges, she is accommodating and charming. Tomorrow, my Aunt and I hope to get our eggs cooked, just the way we want them!'

Sat on the veranda of this French colonial hotel, fan oscillating gently, in the morning breeze, I am struck by the faded grandeur that surrounds me. The breakfast room, to the left of our table, is richly decorated and beautifully presented. Like Nary all the staff are well dressed and very attentive, everyone doing their best to speak English and make us feel comfortable, as we sip our fresh orange juice and eat our Cambodian breakfast.  Sitting in this hotel I feel relaxed, chilling in a setting perfect for enjoying some much needed 'me time,' concentrating on nothing more than the tropical gardens surrounding this stunning hotel!
At 9am my Aunt and I met Thomas, our tuk tuk driver from yesterday, a few yards down the road from our hotel. He was taking us to one of the greatest wonders of the World, Angkor Wat. According to Thomas, there are nearly three hundred temples in the complex and it would be impossible to see all of them in one day. This 12th century Cambodian landmark, was the reason my Aunt and I chose to come to Cambodia and it was something I was looking forward to seeing.

At at cost of $37 US, the day pass isn't cheap, but as anyone who has been to Angkor Wat knows, this is the highlight of any visit. These amazing religious monoliths, magnificent in their majesty are a testimony to mans ingenuity and ability to create the impossible. To be honest I really didn't know what to expect; photographs and videos from the internet never really do justice to places like this, so I was anticipating something spectacular and I wasn't disappointed!


The first and largest temple we visited called 'Angkor Wat' was truly awe inspiring. I have never seen anything like it, it was a deeply humbling experience. As we drove up to the entrance we were greeted by thousands and thousands of people, all heading towards a long temporary  pier like structure connecting us with this Hindu, now Buddhist monument. This first temple is situated in the middle of a large man made lake, surrounded by water. The usual walkway is no longer accessible, having been closed due to crumbling stone, no longer fit for purpose and we joined the long queue of pilgrims, all heading towards the walls of this building and the inner sanctum beyond.


The heat of the day was scorching, as we walked through the tall archway and the buildings inside. We were welcomed by open grounds, trees, vegetation and the wonderful symmetrical facade of the main temple itself. Dotted around were smaller, but no less magnificent stone buildings, surrounded by crowds trying to get the best picture. Unable to appreciate their full beauty, because of the sheer numbers of people, we joined the long line of visitors heading to the religious heart of the complex.


The architecture contained within the interior fabric of the Khmer temple was astonishing, bewildering and surprising. I remember looking up towards the sky, the structure shimmering around me, tall, powerful and a statement to the religion it was built to celebrate. Everywhere one looked, one was bombarded by the might of what is the biggest religious complex in the World. I was witnessing history, touching stone nearly a thousand years old and for the most part left open mouthed at the resplendence around me. I had never seen anything so glorious before and would remember this day for the rest of my life!


In every corner and alcove devout buddhists celebrated their faith. Walking back through the temple itself we were welcomed by icons and statues dressed in traditional clothing, offerings of food at their feet, incense burning sweetly and prayers being said. A buddhist monk knelt down, surrounded by a congregation and quietly chanted in an atmosphere that I can only describe as emotional, touching and poignant.

As we left the confines of the chambers inside Angkor Wat, walking outside, I was overcome with the heat that was growing stronger by the minute. Looking at my phone, a warm 36 degrees was recorded and I was left with a little message, from my modern day app, in this ancient place, telling me to keep hydrated. Both of us headed towards some temporary stalls, where water was being sold and consumed as much as we could. My Aunt was feeling a little disorientated as was I, but taking a look back over my shoulder, I was  reverential in my appreciation for this deeply moving place.


We continued on our journey with Thomas in his tuk tuk. There were ancient symbols everywhere, too many to mention. Monuments at the side of the road, one after the other. We stopped briefly to take in the sites. Locals and visitors feeding monkeys sat in trees, a small child with his head bowed low, in front of a statue and tourists eating a packed lunch, sat on the banks of the moat. Angkor Wat is a deeply ingrained part of Cambodian culture, so much so,  that the subjects of this kingdom are proud of its symbolism. The fact this temple complex is pictured on the national flag, is testimony to the importance of its place in Cambodian society and tradition and rightly so!

We continued towards the West gate and Elephant Terrace, with ornate carvings and elephants passing slowly by, then onward to the famous  Ta Prohm at Angkor Thom, used in the filming of 'Tomb Raider.'  This was a part of Angkor Wat I was looking forward to seeing and was delighted to experience it first hand. There was however a touch of disappointment in this most famous of buildings. It was terribly run down, crumbling stone pillars strewn across the grounds and a feeling of decline and decay everywhere one looked. I felt sad at the scene before me and hoped that this dereliction could be reversed.

After a photo opportunity outside the most famous building at Ta Prohm, we left for Siem Reap. As we departed I felt reassured by  sign posts placed around this famous temple, noting impending reconstruction and restoration. It is important that Ta Prohm is preserved for future generations, so they can enjoy the wonders that I witnessed today!


Thomas charged us $30 US for the trip to Angkor Wat and we tipped him $10 US on top. He was rather pushy for want of a better word, trying to get us to go on another trip with him the next day. Like all tuk tuk drivers, he has a family to feed, needing the work during the less lucrative spring months. We told him we would not be using him the day after which he took rather personally as we found out the next day. I would choose your tour guide wisely and don't give in to unreasonable demands for sympathy. Thomas was a great driver, but he wasn't the person we thought he was.

Our four hour expedition to the temples was exhausting, the weather was hot and we were glad to be heading back to our hotel. The only downside to this trip was the amount of people at Angkor Wat, it did ruin the experience in many respects. However as we later discovered, this was a national holiday, all part of the King of Cambodia's Birthday and there were a lot more people out and about than usual. Angkor Wat was unforgettable; this would be a place I would love to visit again one day, until then, I do at least have the memories to take with me!
We had a delicious lunch at Viva, near Pub Street, a Khmer and Mexican restaurant -  The food was delicious. As I sat there looking across the street, I saw a rather large black rat, sitting at the crossing waiting for the cars to stop, before crossing. This was an intelligent rat, who clearly knew his way around the streets of Siem Reap and a reminder that we were in a country far removed from home. Keeping our wits about us, was essential; any slip up, eating in the wrong place or using the local public conveniences could have cost us dear; luckily we followed the rules!


In the evening we headed back to Pub Street, sitting in the now vibrant district having a few beers, dodging kamikaze insects. Pub Street was alive with tourists and locals selling spiders and snakes, deep fried on sticks. After deliberating for a bit, we decided against trying the local delicacy. This was one side of Cambodia I wanted to avoid. According to the street vendor they tasted like peanuts with a similar texture; this just put me off even more. Even the poor woman in this photo looks distressed at what she is about to eat and who can blame her. For Cambodians however, this is good honest street food, full of protein and part of the Cambodian diet, especially with meat being so expensive....Who am I to judge!
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....and finally, to end another amazing day a trip to Miss Wongs, a local gay venue in the centre of Siem Reap. I had read about this restaurant and bar in a guide before we travelled and was aware of more or less where it was; after half hour or so we found this stunning sophisticated locale. The decor, although rather garish oozed elegance and refinement. Plush leather seats, rich red coloured walls, gold leaf and chandeliers adorned this small select location. I felt at home, sat looking through the doors, towards the street outside, drinking a Miss Wong Punch and nibbling on some Cambodian noodles. This was my kind of place, a little more expensive than Pub Street, but so much more relaxed and polished, a great 'mise en scène' to end our day!
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Asian Adventure - Exploring Siem Reap, 12 May 2019!

12/9/2019

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La Rivière d' Angkor Resort

After our late arrival from South Korea last night, I was expecting a bit of a lie in this morning - No such luck. My body clock decided to wake me up bright an early, after a fantastic nights sleep in the most comfy of beds. The mosquito nets worked a treat, I didn't get bitten once and there were no large spiders crawling across my face, who could ask for more. I could hear the birds singing in the tropical gardens of the hotel outside and a few unusual wildlife sounds downstairs, Not noises I had heard before, but all part of the excitement of exploring a new country.

I checked the bathroom thoroughly for snakes and insects that could have been lurking under toilet seats or in shower heads, then  had a rather relaxing soak in the large granite bath. The water was warm and inviting and the tranquil setting perfect. This was the first bath I had had since leaving the UK and was going to make the most of it; after all the walking over the last few weeks, it was just what I needed. Sadly I was unable to remove the plug from the bath after jamming it in the hole a little too hard; a job for reception!!

My Aunt and I made our way downstairs and outside where we had a brief chat with the receptionist, who said they would come and fix the bath while we were at breakfast, which was a short walk around the pool and into the restaurant. The atmosphere was distinctly colonial, sitting on the veranda tucking into a traditional 'English' affair with a slight Cambodian touch. The staff were attentive and extremely gracious, catering for our every need; this was most certainly five star luxury at its best! As I sat there taking in the surroundings, I was struck by the intense heat, so different to where we had been before and the gecko's adorning the walls!

We made our way back to the room, to grab our bags for the day ahead and bumped into a Cambodian bobtail cat, feeding her kittens outside one of the hotel rooms. This made the hotel even more special. As a cat lover, I am always happy to have our feline friends close, they were a warming addition to our stay at La Rivière d' Angkor Resort.

Buddhist Retreat
Leaving the compound of the hotel, we were greeted by a busy, somewhat chaotic scene. Traffic, bikes, tuk tuk's and locals on foot, heading in all directions. In front of the resort, a large river, flowing through the city of Siem Reap. Families with children, the occasional tourist and others, all enjoying the morning heat, which by now, at 9am had already reached thirty degrees.

We turned right and began to walk up the road, not knowing where we were heading, but just taking in the sites, smells and sounds of the beautiful place. I was in awe of this historic paradise but a little apprehensive of what we might find around each corner. As we sauntered gently towards what we believed to be the centre of town, we were approached by a tuk tuk driver called Thomas, who followed us up the road, trying to persuade us to take a tour of the city. Saying no to a tuk tuk driver is near impossible, but we persisted, until we passed a Buddhist retreat and went inside, followed by Thomas, who parked up, as we walked eagerly around.

This complex was a fusion of colour, unbelievable architecture and a hive of activity. Men, wearing  traditional Buddhist attire, cleaning, sweeping and feeding animals, cats and dogs alike. Small children running around, amusing themselves as best they could and large cauldrons of food, gently simmering over fires, outside run down ramshackled dwellings, hidden behind trees and bushes, creating a little modesty for those who lived inside.  A stray kitten, who looked terribly ill, started to follow me as I walked around the dusty courtyards, meowing helplessly, yet there was nothing I could do. It is so upsetting seeing how animals are treated in Cambodia and other Asian countries, but as I was told, these are poor people who can barely look after themselves, let alone feed animals. All I could do was spend a few moments, taking time to talk gently to this poor creature, hoping it wouldn't be too long, before he or she passed quietly away. This is the side of Asia, I will never get used to.

Royal Palace - Siem Reap
Thomas was waiting for us, as we left the retreat and we both decided to take a tour of Siem Reap in his tuk tuk; it was easier, than trying to avoid him and the other drivers, all vying for the lucrative tourist market. We agreed a price of twenty American dollars for the journey and set off to our first destination. Everything in Cambodia is paid for in dollars. Local currency fluctuations are so great, that the stable US green back is the best way to pay for goods and services. All major banks supply dollars and ATM's are stocked also. It did seem a rather odd practice to me, but Cambodia functions perfectly well and certainly doesn't seem to be at any disadvantage as a consequence.

Driving along the busy, tumultuous streets, dodging cars and other tuk tuks, we eventually reached at our first destination - The Royal Palace. We had arrived during celebrations for the King of Cambodia's Birthday and the roads and buildings were highly decorated in homage to His Majesty. It was a public holiday and there were people everywhere as we took a leisurely walk around the Royal enclosure and temples, as well as the many stalls selling everything from live turtles and birds to tropical fresh fruit and vegetables. The subjects of this deeply Conservative nation, were dressed accordingly, not a pair of shorts in sight. Many lit candles at the temple opposite the palace, offering a prayer for those they had lost and others waited patiently in queues for their turn to enter the Kings estate. This was a spectacle to behold, not an angry voice in site, everyone just happy to be together, celebrating their beloved Kings Birthday.
The Killing Fields - Siem Reap
Our next stop was the Siem Reap Killing fields, where many people lost their lives under the regime of Pol Pot and the Khmer Rouge between 1975-79. This was a deeply moving place, where religious icons and statues nestled quietly, next to the graves, skulls and remains of those who died. As one walked around, one was struck by the silence and run down nature of this eerie, chilling place. Buddhist monks gently bowed their heads as one walked past and more feral bobtail cats and stray dogs fought for their place in the hierarchy of this monument to the evil. Once again I was left rather empty by our visit; something we had to do, but a part of Cambodian recent history that is difficult to comprehend!

Local Handicrafts
During out tour of Siem Reap, Thomas took us to many local handicraft establishments, where we could buy local souvenirs to take home. The photographs above show one such workshop, where disabled veterans from the war with the Khmer Rough, quietly sit, producing some truly wonderful works of art. Of course like many of the studios we visited, the items were terribly overpriced and it was doubtful these people received much recompense for all their hard work. I bought a few items of interest and left, feeling a little sad that this was the only way these poor disabled workers could make a few dollars.

Until you visit a place like Cambodia, you really have no idea how others live and have to survive, without the luxuries we have here in the west. Thomas took us to these small shops because he was able to then fund his own business driving a tuk tuk, given money for fuel by the owners for taking tourists, like my Aunt and I, to their businesses; a very different World and unforgiving place to survive.
War Memorial
Finally Thomas took us to the Siem Reap War Memorial. Another strangely poignant place, bringing Cambodia's tainted past to life. A few moments contemplation, surrounded by the names of the fallen, brought to an end an eye opening first day in the city, before we hit the town for a few drinks at the famous Pub Street!

Pub Street
Thomas dropped us off at the hotel, where we spent an hour freshening up before heading to the notorious Pub Street in the heart of the City. As the name suggests, this is an area full of bars and clubs, cheap drinks and food in a vibrant, characterful environment. The place was teaming with tourists, backpackers and what I can only describe as alternative types, all enjoying the last of the sun, before the evening crowds took over.

My Aunt and I had a few beers in a local bar, costing a rather agreeable fifty cents. Sitting there I was amazed by the sites and sounds around me, experiences I had never seen before. Snakes in glass cases sold for food, Crocodile burgers across the road and various insects on sticks, deep fried ready to be eaten. The smell of the streets could be rather overpowering at times, with raw sewage and rats commonplace, but it really didn't matter on the scale of things, this is what gave Siem Reap its magical third World charm.

In the evening we gate crashed a Gay Pride Celebration in a nearby hotel, a rather constrained affair, not something I was used to! Sat drinking beers on the tropical roof terrace of this palatial building, surrounded by the great and good of Siem Reaps gay community, mainly consisting of older white men and young Cambodian boys, both my Aunt and I felt rather out of place and left early. Tomorrow was going to be another long day; it was time to get some sleep!
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Asian Adventure - Onward to Cambodia, 11 May 2019

19/8/2019

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Darrell left at 7.30am this morning for Incheon Airport for his flight to Singapore and Australia. Our time together has gone way too fast; I shall be counting the days until I see him again. I always try my best, not to show emotions, especially at difficult times. If I start crying, it will just make the situation worse and neither of us need that kind of stress on top of what we already have to go through. We hugged and kissed and said our goodbyes and then he was gone. It will be six months before we see each other again, so these last ten days were important for us as a couple. We have experienced much together and travelled to many different parts of the World, but our time in Hong Kong and Korea have by far, been the best adventure yet.

My Aunt and I left the hotel at 11.30am and took a leisurely walk to a French Patisserie at the end of the street, next to the train station. We had a light lunch before the next stage of our journey. Sat in the small cafe, I was in awe of the sites around me. I will really miss Seoul and have found my time here relaxing and enlightening. Our beautiful apartment was the perfect place to stay at the half way point of our holiday. Visiting Seoul has been an eye opener; there is little western tourism here and as a consequence it remains largely untouched. It's perfectly preserved culture is not only breathtaking, but has also been an amazing introduction to the Far Eastern lifestyle, that I hope to see more of in the future!

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After a salad and a ham and cheese flatbread we headed to 'Chungmuro Station,' to cash in our Korean Tourist Transit Cards. We loaded the cards each day to use the Seoul Metropolitan Subway, the largest such system in the World. We made our way to the vending machines in the foyer and did our best to try and get our money returned, to no avail. After pressing the help button, we were told to head to 'emart24' along the High Street, where they would be able to take the cards from us. Once more we tried to use the machines just inside the door, again without success; finally we approached the counter, where a lovely lady returned our unused funds and wished us a safe journey to Cambodia.

The subway system in Seoul certainly is impressive, but as we found out on many occasions, it can be confusing, sending us in the wrong direction. The process of returning our transit cards was also a little archaic, but the fact we could get a refund at all was a bonus, not something you would be able to do in London for example. Suitably stressed we returned to the hotel, where our cases were being stored and ordered a limousine for our trip to the airport; probably wise under the circumstances; neither of us wanted to be dragging cases around for the next few hours in the searing afternoon sun!
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The journey to the airport took one and a half hours. The drive itself was a little erratic and the driver seemed on edge. Both my Aunt and I said a little prayer as we sped through the streets of Seoul. We did however see many sites that we wouldn't have seen, had we taken the subway. I was struck by how clean everything was; well ordered residential blocks of flats surrounded by beautiful landscaped gardens, nestling next to tall skyscrapers, gleaming in the 31 degree heat. Finally we rode over a rather large bridge, before turning into the bright, modern Incheon Airport.

Greeted by a robot, we travelled to our departure gate on the other side of the airport, where we settled down to wait for our Air Seoul flight to Siem Reap. This was one trip I wasn't looking forward to. When we booked it online, we had no end of trouble navigating the website, leaving us unable to order food for our journey. After reading reviews about the airline itself, I was under no illusions as to the standards to expect. I was fully aware of the lack of English speaking reps and apprehensive about the plane journey itself, which by all accounts could be quite turbulent.

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'Currently I am on the Air Seoul Flight to Siem Reap, sandwiched between my Aunt and a lovely Korean lady to my right. She has offered us some tasty homemade Korean bread and advised us on the best way to season our Korean Noodles, that we were able to purchase from the air hostess when we boarded. She has even shown me how to eat the noodles with chopsticks, no easy undertaking, believe me, but actually quite manageable when she showed us how.

The lady is on the way to Siem Reap with six members of her family, to meet her husband. At the moment she is filling in all the boarding cards for her entourage. She looks perfectly organised and totally in charge of the group!

Oh wait, she's now fiddling with a rosary and chanting something in Korean, looking totally uncomfortable. Jesus Christ sake, if only she knew how scared she was making me feel. I just hope she is saying a prayer for us too!'

True to form, the Air Seoul flight was rough. The standard of service was excellent however, totally different to what I was expecting, but the turbulence was incredible. I have never experienced such choppiness before. With my Aunt asleep one side and the Korean lady playing with her beads on the other, I was just hoping we got to our destination in one piece, which thankfully we did!
We arrived at Siem Reap late in the evening, the airport buildings were stunning, designed in oriental style and our disembarkation, through the terminal was a dream. We were lucky enough to have bought our visa's weeks before we travelled, so avoided the queues at the airport. After a short wait outside for our driver, in what I can only describe as intense, hot tropical heat, we were driven the short distance to La Rivière d' Angkor Resort, our hotel for the next five days.

This was a beautiful, impressive, colonial building, centrally located, 700 yards from the famous Pub Street and a short walk away from all the major landmarks. Situated along the river front, set in lush tropical gardens, it was the best accommodation we had stayed in so far, even better than the hotel in Vietnam. The room was richly decorated in  tasteful Art Deco style that harked back to an era long since forgotten. I was glad to collapse in bed after such a long journey. The only worries on my mind were snakes and spiders that were probably surrounding our room as we slept. This was a country unlike any we have been to so far and I was looking forward to my stay...Tomorrow couldn't come soon enough!
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Asian Adventure - Last Day In Korea, 10 May 2019

1/8/2019

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The 10th May is our last day in South Korea. Darrell's flight to Singapore and Australia departs early tomorrow morning with our scheduled flight to Siem Reap leaving at 7.15pm. It's going to be a long day, so all of us want to make the most of the time we have left.

Suffering with a hangover Darrell and I got up at midday, the first time we had actually slept in during this vacation. My Aunt was spending the day in the Demilitarized Zone, between North and South Korea, leaving Darrell and I a precious few hours together before his departure.

We decided to go for a walk in Namsan National Park, not far from our hotel. We spent time chatting about the future and discussing just where our lives our at the moment. Neither of us were sure about the direction we are heading in, especially when we are living so far apart. Darrell's Mother continues to confound her Doctors and is remarkably stable considering her Cancer diagnosis. At the moment we will both continue to do what is best for our respective families. We were able to confirm our intentions to see each other once again in October, when Darrell flies to the UK, but for now we would just enjoy a beautiful afternoon in the park; nothing stressful or taxing, just a chilled day in beautiful surroundings, the like of which we will probably never see again.

Namsan Park was glimmering in the heat of the day, the sun shining intensely. A group of young Korean boys were practicing Tiquando on a stage erected in the entrance to this popular tourist destination. The numerous waterfalls and features, that were situated all over this oriental landscape were a welcome respite from the heat of the day. Sitting, talking, reminiscing about times both good and bad, in a setting so picturesque and breathtaking added an extra dimension to our conversation. When you are in the company of such resplendency, your problems don't seem so bad after all!
A short walk from the National Park, towards Myeongdong we visited another cat cafe, popular here in Korea. Darrell and I have always had a love of cats, so it was appropriate that we should spend another hour or so surrounded by more feline friends. The cats here were far more active than they were at the 'Hello Cat Cafe,' we had visited earlier in the week. It was clear this space was designed to cater for the needs of cats, and not those who were coming to visit. There were plenty of toys and apparatus to mimic a more natural environment and the resident cats seemed happy and relaxed.

We both sat down at a table in the corner, with a cold cup of lemon juice and waited for the cats to come over. These animals really are the best medicine, when you are feeling down and stressed. With Darrell returning home and Aunt Trisha and I boarding yet another flight, my anxiety levels were high. Enjoying time away from the busy city of Seoul, protected from the pollution, imposing buildings and  thronging crowds is a tonic; you can see why so many people enjoy these wonderfully welcoming places and understand why they are so sought after. This has been the most memorable aspect of my time in South Korea, a memory I will cherish for ever!
In the evening my Aunt treated us both to a meal at Calice Italian Bistro, once again in Myeongdong. The restaurant was at the bottom of a large five star hotel and was tastefully furnished, overlooking the main strip. The large bi-fold doors at the front of the building were open, letting in a soothing gentle breeze, perfect for cooling down after the blisteringly hot day. First impressions were good, as we sat at our table, waiting to be served. Aunt Trisha was wearing a brooch that Darrel's Mother had given her as a present, which went perfectly with her outfit. The ambience was impeccable, for our last day in Korea.

We were served by a young Korean girl, who was clearly on her first day at the restaurant and seemed to be rather nervous, calling over her bosses several times, to check her order. She was however polite, like every other Korean we had encountered. The Chef and owner spoke perfect English and recommended different dishes for us to try. I chose beef with Spinach and truffles; not the biggest of portions, but it tasted fantastic.

Once again we took the time to talk about what lies ahead and we were all hopeful for the future. It is difficult having to traverse the globe in order to see your partner, but it does make for a more interesting life. We have both been able to see places that we would have never visited under normal circumstances and met some wonderful characters on our journey. Korea has been an eye opener for all of us, but more so for me, because I actually liked the place and enjoyed every aspect of my time here. When we first arrived, I thought Seoul would be just like every other city we have seen before, but actually it was a lot more than that. The cultural explosion that greeted us was unforgettable, I have been so impressed by every detail of life here. The architecture, art and food have all been out of this World. Both Darrell and I agreed to return to this less explored part of the planet again one day, but until then we can at least take the memories of an exceptional, extraordinary and evocative five day expedition home with us, memories that will never fade, enduring impressions, like time itself!
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Asian Adventure - Birthday at Bukchon!

25/7/2019

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It felt wonderful waking up in Seoul on my Birthday. Pulling back the curtains in the lounge of our apartment, the sun was out and it looked like we were in for another hot day. Darrell was already awake, coming over as I walked out the door, giving me a card and a 'Korean Cat,' a cuddly toy he had bought from Seoul tower a day or so before. As I slowly awoke, still tired from the previous days walking, I sat down and read the many messages I had received from back home in the UK. Today I was 48 years old, approaching my fifties and happy to be spending the day with my husband and Aunt, doing the things I wanted to do.
With a love of history that goes back to my school days thirty four years, I chose to begin my Birthday with a tour of Bukchon Hanock Village. This six hundred year old settlement is the best example of a traditional working urban environment in Seoul today and was an absolute dream to visit.

Seoul is a large sprawling city; it's modern, gleaming streets and imposing architecture can be seen wherever you go, each building appearing bigger and better than the last. Imagine my surprise when I got off the metro underground system and began my short walk to this historic site and discovered an altogether different, customary, characterful and calming terrain, situated slap bang in the middle of this amazingly vibrant city.
The approach to Bukchon is littered with small cafe's, shops full of Korean handicrafts and memorable architectural delights, including a beautiful Catholic Cathedral, prominently situated at the forefront of this traditional buddhist community. I was aghast by the level of care and commitment shown by the Korean residents, in preserving their heritage. This is a functioning village, people still live and work here. As an observer, looking into their lives I was grateful for their welcome, as we walked around the narrow streets, taking photographs and looking in awe at history in the making.

Many of those visiting Bukchon were wearing traditional Korean dress and most were happy to have their photographs taken, as they went about their business. Politely and with dignity, they made way for the tourists that flock to this Korean Landmark. You could see how proud they were of their village and the wider city of Seoul, showing just how far these people had come since the Korean war in the 1950s. The contrast between old and modern is stark. As one meanders around Bukchon, one is conscious of being in the middle of a modern metropolis, with high skyscrapers framing the landscape beyond. This is a place I will always hold in my memories and look forward to seeing again in the future!
After a good few hours of siteseeing, we had a traditional Korean lunch near the village, which was delicious, as all the food has been in this country. Once again I ate with chopsticks and am persevering with them everyday on this holiday. I will never be an expert eating with these utensils but at least I have tried. I suppose today was the day I truly fell in love with Korea and really want to see more of this cultural gem.

After Bukchon we went to Changdeokgung Palace, much larger than Deoksugung Palace we visited yesterday. Changdeokgung is probably the most loved of all Royal residences and is visited daily by thousands of people. I was astonished by how big this complex is. Building after building, perfectly preserved and painted in traditional Korean colours. Interestingly only thirty percent of the original buildings remain in tact, but what there is, is breathtaking. In 1997 this site was added to the UNESCO World Heritage List and it is easy to see why. Reporting their decision to include Changdeokgung, the UNESCO Committee stated the Palace was an 'outstanding example of Far Eastern palace architecture and garden design" being exceptional because the buildings are "integrated into and harmonized with the natural setting' and adapted 'to the topography and retaining indigenous tree cover!'

This trip to Korea has opened my eyes on many levels. I never really knew much about this country prior to my visit, but today as I write this blog entry I am fully versed in the outstanding history that oozes around every city block, at least in Seoul. Changdeokgung Palace is a fine example of oriental design and inginuity. I have to keep reminding myself that this structure was built in the 14th century and looks as perfect today as it did then. A trip here is a trip to the heart of the Korean nation!
In the evening after a few hours rest we went out for a few drinks, stumbling across another Korean landmark, this time contemporary in construction and rather modern in its concept. An unused motorway has been turned into a city park with landscaped canal, waterfalls and places to sit, take in the city skyline and enjoy a relaxing hour or so; a project that looked towards the future. It was very strange seeing this popular attraction in such a busy metropolitan setting, but was yet another testimony to the creativity of Koreans.

Just a few minutes away was an English pub - The Shakespeare, serving rather expensive craft beer in a typically British setting. On the surface, this seemed like a popular destination, with businessmen and visitors alike enjoying the ambience and winding down after a busy day. Although we were happy to sit and chat for a while, we moved on to a more lively bar, a few yards down the busy thoroughfare. After several half pints of stella, costing the same as a pint in the UK, we were done for the evening, making our way home through the still thronging streets with a brief stopover at McDonalds.

This was a Birthday like no other and one I shall remember for many years to come. I really couldn't have asked for more than spending my time in Seoul, surrounded by history and the ones I love. This is a day I still dream about, remembering with fondness the experiences I shared, a day that couldn't have been more perfect, relaxed, thoughtful, without stress and looking forward to the year ahead!
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Asian Adventure - Modern Gangnam & The Ancient Deoksugung Palace, 8 May 2019

27/6/2019

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Today was Gangnam day; the three of us were heading towards K-Star Road, where the famous Gangnam district is situated. The road is dedicated to the fashionable teen pop culture, that Korea is famous for. My little Cousin Ruby is into all things Korean at the moment. She sits in front of the television, glued to the latest Korean soap opera or listening to her favourite Korean band. Modern day Korea is a World apart from the traditional side of this country. The two contrasting styles sit happily side by side, in Seoul, a city that has evolved dramatically over the last sixty years and embodies modernity in all its forms. High tech is the order of the day and Gangnam pays homage to a growing culture and lifestyle that older generations would find hard to quantify. However the wide open boulevards, spectacular architecture, beautiful people and well kept sidewalks of this neighbourhood offer a chance to explore new and equally as interesting experiences!
Situated the length of K-Star Road, there are small bear like 'emoji's,' each one depicting a particular band or musician unique to K-Pop culture in Korea. As a novice in such matters, I was a little dismissive of the whole place. Korean pop really isn't my thing and like most of the customs that surround the K-Pop scene, I find it banal and far to kitsch for my taste. Having said that it is extremely popular in Korea and as a nation, they are proud of the music their country manufactures. The songs they produce are popular all over the World and I can understand why. Teenagers like this music because it is so different, young and vibrant, rather like the modern day Korea it seeks to emulate.

Walking down towards the river we stumbled upon some fantastic street art on display. I am a big fan of Graffiti and this form of expression; coming from Portsmouth I am well used to such visual displays. The one thing that has struck me about my time in Korea is just how modern Seoul is. This underground art, shows just how far this part of Asia has come, finding its place in the modern World. It wasn't too many years ago, that this tiny nation was considered a third World country; it's come a long way since then!
Our next stop was Deoksugung Palace, a very special place in the heart of Koreans. This is probably the inhabitants of Seoul's favourite royal palace. Members of the Korean Royal Family lived here right up until 1910, when Korea was annexed by Japan. Of all the palaces I visited here, this was by far my favourite too, a mixture of the ancient Korean style and the more classical European design.

The complex is made up of a number of buildings, wonderful architecture painted in the traditional Korean colours, with a big influence on Blue/Green, which represents the East. The west is white, red is south, north is black and the centre is yellow. This type of design is called dancheong and refers to traditional decorative colouring on buildings for the purpose of style. On a purely practical level the paint is used to protect the buildings from changes in temperature. Symbolically, the patternation also signifies the rank and social status of the residents of these stunning constructions.

Like other historic sights we have visited, these beautiful structures have been preserved and expertly looked after, creating a public space out of what was once a private inner sanctum. On the day we arrived, there were many people waiting to go through the large imposing gates at the entrance to Deoksugung Palace. We were also lucky enough to arrive just in time for the changing of the guard, which was a special experience harking back to an altogether different era. As someone who is fascinated by royal history, both in the UK and abroad, I was in awe at the spectacle being played out before me, right in the middle of a busy intersection in the centre of Seoul.

Next to the ancient buildings of Deoksugung, stands a newer palace, equally as beautiful and more purpose built for the royal family of the time, allowing them to live a more comfortable lifestyle. This newer building is a reminder of colonial and European influence on Korean life. The wonderful gardens, ponds and water features add a air of sophistication to this tale of two palaces. I was taken aback by the sheer scale of this place and could have spent hours sitting, looking at this amazing oasis in the middle of a sea of concrete.
We stopped for a late lunch in a small family run restaurant, just outside the palace walls. This was the best meal yet in Korea, all cooked by a single Korean lady. There were no waiters or other members of staff, just this charming woman, who made us feel completely at home, while she busied herself in the kitchen. The cost of the meal, including three large beers? 34,000 won, which equates to about twenty pounds. This was real Korea and I felt relaxed and happy to be spending time with Darrell and my Aunt in such an historic setting. Korean food seems to suit my constitution and there hasn't been anything I haven't enjoyed while I have been here.....

......However as we left the centre and headed back towards our apartment and Myeongdong, we were confronted by a lone protestor, wearing an A board. On each side of the board, graphic pictures of dogs and cats being slaughtered for meat. The sign simply said 'Stop the Killing,' in English and Korean. It was a large reminder of exactly where we were and yes Koreans do eat animals we don't in the West. Up until now I hadn't seen any cats or dogs being ill treated, but I was aware of restaurants selling specifically dog and cat meat and chose to walk away.

Seoul seems to be a rather open society, at least on the surface. Adult sex shops sit happily next to restaurants selling dubious food still swimming in tanks, including, shockingly for me, turtles and exotic fish. Yet the etiquette expected in everyday life indicates a more reserved, quiet, respectful population. No one bats an eye when they pass a hardcore private shop, yet frowns upon a lack of manners, from a rather confused tourist like me. I find Koreans fascinating and for the most part, engaging and a delight to be around. Something inside of me wants to know more about these enchanting people.
We spent the evening walking around Myeongdong, while Darrell looked for a new pair of shoes. One would think that with all the shoe shops in this shopping district, Darrell would have found something, but no. Exhausted we popped into McDonalds, for one of their Asian burgers, not where I really wanted to go, but since this is Darrell's eatery of choice, I gave in, just this once!

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