Category: Asia 2019

Asian Adventure - Exploring Siem Reap, 12 May 2019!

12/9/2019

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La Rivière d' Angkor Resort

After our late arrival from South Korea last night, I was expecting a bit of a lie in this morning - No such luck. My body clock decided to wake me up bright an early, after a fantastic nights sleep in the most comfy of beds. The mosquito nets worked a treat, I didn't get bitten once and there were no large spiders crawling across my face, who could ask for more. I could hear the birds singing in the tropical gardens of the hotel outside and a few unusual wildlife sounds downstairs, Not noises I had heard before, but all part of the excitement of exploring a new country.

I checked the bathroom thoroughly for snakes and insects that could have been lurking under toilet seats or in shower heads, then had a rather relaxing soak in the large granite bath. The water was warm and inviting and the tranquil setting perfect. This was the first bath I had had since leaving the UK and was going to make the most of it; after all the walking over the last few weeks, it was just what I needed. Sadly I was unable to remove the plug from the bath after jamming it in the hole a little too hard; a job for reception!!

My Aunt and I made our way downstairs and outside where we had a brief chat with the receptionist, who said they would come and fix the bath while we were at breakfast, which was a short walk around the pool and into the restaurant. The atmosphere was distinctly colonial, sitting on the veranda tucking into a traditional 'English' affair with a slight Cambodian touch. The staff were attentive and extremely gracious, catering for our every need; this was most certainly five star luxury at its best! As I sat there taking in the surroundings, I was struck by the intense heat, so different to where we had been before and the gecko's adorning the walls!

We made our way back to the room, to grab our bags for the day ahead and bumped into a Cambodian bobtail cat, feeding her kittens outside one of the hotel rooms. This made the hotel even more special. As a cat lover, I am always happy to have our feline friends close, they were a warming addition to our stay at La Rivière d' Angkor Resort.

Buddhist Retreat

Leaving the compound of the hotel, we were greeted by a busy, somewhat chaotic scene. Traffic, bikes, tuk tuk's and locals on foot, heading in all directions. In front of the resort, a large river, flowing through the city of Siem Reap. Families with children, the occasional tourist and others, all enjoying the morning heat, which by now, at 9am had already reached thirty degrees.

We turned right and began to walk up the road, not knowing where we were heading, but just taking in the sites, smells and sounds of the beautiful place. I was in awe of this historic paradise but a little apprehensive of what we might find around each corner. As we sauntered gently towards what we believed to be the centre of town, we were approached by a tuk tuk driver called Thomas, who followed us up the road, trying to persuade us to take a tour of the city. Saying no to a tuk tuk driver is near impossible, but we persisted, until we passed a Buddhist retreat and went inside, followed by Thomas, who parked up, as we walked eagerly around.

This complex was a fusion of colour, unbelievable architecture and a hive of activity. Men, wearing traditional Buddhist attire, cleaning, sweeping and feeding animals, cats and dogs alike. Small children running around, amusing themselves as best they could and large cauldrons of food, gently simmering over fires, outside run down ramshackled dwellings, hidden behind trees and bushes, creating a little modesty for those who lived inside. A stray kitten, who looked terribly ill, started to follow me as I walked around the dusty courtyards, meowing helplessly, yet there was nothing I could do. It is so upsetting seeing how animals are treated in Cambodia and other Asian countries, but as I was told, these are poor people who can barely look after themselves, let alone feed animals. All I could do was spend a few moments, taking time to talk gently to this poor creature, hoping it wouldn't be too long, before he or she passed quietly away. This is the side of Asia, I will never get used to.

Royal Palace - Siem Reap

Thomas was waiting for us, as we left the retreat and we both decided to take a tour of Siem Reap in his tuk tuk; it was easier, than trying to avoid him and the other drivers, all vying for the lucrative tourist market. We agreed a price of twenty American dollars for the journey and set off to our first destination. Everything in Cambodia is paid for in dollars. Local currency fluctuations are so great, that the stable US green back is the best way to pay for goods and services. All major banks supply dollars and ATM's are stocked also. It did seem a rather odd practice to me, but Cambodia functions perfectly well and certainly doesn't seem to be at any disadvantage as a consequence.

Driving along the busy, tumultuous streets, dodging cars and other tuk tuks, we eventually reached at our first destination - The Royal Palace. We had arrived during celebrations for the King of Cambodia's Birthday and the roads and buildings were highly decorated in homage to His Majesty. It was a public holiday and there were people everywhere as we took a leisurely walk around the Royal enclosure and temples, as well as the many stalls selling everything from live turtles and birds to tropical fresh fruit and vegetables. The subjects of this deeply Conservative nation, were dressed accordingly, not a pair of shorts in sight. Many lit candles at the temple opposite the palace, offering a prayer for those they had lost and others waited patiently in queues for their turn to enter the Kings estate. This was a spectacle to behold, not an angry voice in site, everyone just happy to be together, celebrating their beloved Kings Birthday.

The Killing Fields - Siem Reap

Our next stop was the Siem Reap Killing fields, where many people lost their lives under the regime of Pol Pot and the Khmer Rouge between 1975-79. This was a deeply moving place, where religious icons and statues nestled quietly, next to the graves, skulls and remains of those who died. As one walked around, one was struck by the silence and run down nature of this eerie, chilling place. Buddhist monks gently bowed their heads as one walked past and more feral bobtail cats and stray dogs fought for their place in the hierarchy of this monument to the evil. Once again I was left rather empty by our visit; something we had to do, but a part of Cambodian recent history that is difficult to comprehend!

Local Handicrafts

During out tour of Siem Reap, Thomas took us to many local handicraft establishments, where we could buy local souvenirs to take home. The photographs above show one such workshop, where disabled veterans from the war with the Khmer Rough, quietly sit, producing some truly wonderful works of art. Of course like many of the studios we visited, the items were terribly overpriced and it was doubtful these people received much recompense for all their hard work. I bought a few items of interest and left, feeling a little sad that this was the only way these poor disabled workers could make a few dollars.

Until you visit a place like Cambodia, you really have no idea how others live and have to survive, without the luxuries we have here in the west. Thomas took us to these small shops because he was able to then fund his own business driving a tuk tuk, given money for fuel by the owners for taking tourists, like my Aunt and I, to their businesses; a very different World and unforgiving place to survive.

War Memorial

Finally Thomas took us to the Siem Reap War Memorial. Another strangely poignant place, bringing Cambodia's tainted past to life. A few moments contemplation, surrounded by the names of the fallen, brought to an end an eye opening first day in the city, before we hit the town for a few drinks at the famous Pub Street!

Pub Street

Thomas dropped us off at the hotel, where we spent an hour freshening up before heading to the notorious Pub Street in the heart of the City. As the name suggests, this is an area full of bars and clubs, cheap drinks and food in a vibrant, characterful environment. The place was teaming with tourists, backpackers and what I can only describe as alternative types, all enjoying the last of the sun, before the evening crowds took over.

My Aunt and I had a few beers in a local bar, costing a rather agreeable fifty cents. Sitting there I was amazed by the sites and sounds around me, experiences I had never seen before. Snakes in glass cases sold for food, Crocodile burgers across the road and various insects on sticks, deep fried ready to be eaten. The smell of the streets could be rather overpowering at times, with raw sewage and rats commonplace, but it really didn't matter on the scale of things, this is what gave Siem Reap its magical third World charm.

In the evening we gate crashed a Gay Pride Celebration in a nearby hotel, a rather constrained affair, not something I was used to! Sat drinking beers on the tropical roof terrace of this palatial building, surrounded by the great and good of Siem Reaps gay community, mainly consisting of older white men and young Cambodian boys, both my Aunt and I felt rather out of place and left early. Tomorrow was going to be another long day; it was time to get some sleep!

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Asian Adventure - Onward to Cambodia, 11 May 2019

19/8/2019

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Darrell left at 7.30am this morning for Incheon Airport for his flight to Singapore and Australia. Our time together has gone way too fast; I shall be counting the days until I see him again. I always try my best, not to show emotions, especially at difficult times. If I start crying, it will just make the situation worse and neither of us need that kind of stress on top of what we already have to go through. We hugged and kissed and said our goodbyes and then he was gone. It will be six months before we see each other again, so these last ten days were important for us as a couple. We have experienced much together and travelled to many different parts of the World, but our time in Hong Kong and Korea have by far, been the best adventure yet.

My Aunt and I left the hotel at 11.30am and took a leisurely walk to a French Patisserie at the end of the street, next to the train station. We had a light lunch before the next stage of our journey. Sat in the small cafe, I was in awe of the sites around me. I will really miss Seoul and have found my time here relaxing and enlightening. Our beautiful apartment was the perfect place to stay at the half way point of our holiday. Visiting Seoul has been an eye opener; there is little western tourism here and as a consequence it remains largely untouched. It's perfectly preserved culture is not only breathtaking, but has also been an amazing introduction to the Far Eastern lifestyle, that I hope to see more of in the future!

After a salad and a ham and cheese flatbread we headed to 'Chungmuro Station,' to cash in our Korean Tourist Transit Cards. We loaded the cards each day to use the Seoul Metropolitan Subway, the largest such system in the World. We made our way to the vending machines in the foyer and did our best to try and get our money returned, to no avail. After pressing the help button, we were told to head to 'emart24' along the High Street, where they would be able to take the cards from us. Once more we tried to use the machines just inside the door, again without success; finally we approached the counter, where a lovely lady returned our unused funds and wished us a safe journey to Cambodia.

The subway system in Seoul certainly is impressive, but as we found out on many occasions, it can be confusing, sending us in the wrong direction. The process of returning our transit cards was also a little archaic, but the fact we could get a refund at all was a bonus, not something you would be able to do in London for example. Suitably stressed we returned to the hotel, where our cases were being stored and ordered a limousine for our trip to the airport; probably wise under the circumstances; neither of us wanted to be dragging cases around for the next few hours in the searing afternoon sun!

The journey to the airport took one and a half hours. The drive itself was a little erratic and the driver seemed on edge. Both my Aunt and I said a little prayer as we sped through the streets of Seoul. We did however see many sites that we wouldn't have seen, had we taken the subway. I was struck by how clean everything was; well ordered residential blocks of flats surrounded by beautiful landscaped gardens, nestling next to tall skyscrapers, gleaming in the 31 degree heat. Finally we rode over a rather large bridge, before turning into the bright, modern Incheon Airport.

Greeted by a robot, we travelled to our departure gate on the other side of the airport, where we settled down to wait for our Air Seoul flight to Siem Reap. This was one trip I wasn't looking forward to. When we booked it online, we had no end of trouble navigating the website, leaving us unable to order food for our journey. After reading reviews about the airline itself, I was under no illusions as to the standards to expect. I was fully aware of the lack of English speaking reps and apprehensive about the plane journey itself, which by all accounts could be quite turbulent.

'Currently I am on the Air Seoul Flight to Siem Reap, sandwiched between my Aunt and a lovely Korean lady to my right. She has offered us some tasty homemade Korean bread and advised us on the best way to season our Korean Noodles, that we were able to purchase from the air hostess when we boarded. She has even shown me how to eat the noodles with chopsticks, no easy undertaking, believe me, but actually quite manageable when she showed us how.

The lady is on the way to Siem Reap with six members of her family, to meet her husband. At the moment she is filling in all the boarding cards for her entourage. She looks perfectly organised and totally in charge of the group!

Oh wait, she's now fiddling with a rosary and chanting something in Korean, looking totally uncomfortable. Jesus Christ sake, if only she knew how scared she was making me feel. I just hope she is saying a prayer for us too!'

True to form, the Air Seoul flight was rough. The standard of service was excellent however, totally different to what I was expecting, but the turbulence was incredible. I have never experienced such choppiness before. With my Aunt asleep one side and the Korean lady playing with her beads on the other, I was just hoping we got to our destination in one piece, which thankfully we did!

We arrived at Siem Reap late in the evening, the airport buildings were stunning, designed in oriental style and our disembarkation, through the terminal was a dream. We were lucky enough to have bought our visa's weeks before we travelled, so avoided the queues at the airport. After a short wait outside for our driver, in what I can only describe as intense, hot tropical heat, we were driven the short distance to La Rivière d' Angkor Resort, our hotel for the next five days.

This was a beautiful, impressive, colonial building, centrally located, 700 yards from the famous Pub Street and a short walk away from all the major landmarks. Situated along the river front, set in lush tropical gardens, it was the best accommodation we had stayed in so far, even better than the hotel in Vietnam. The room was richly decorated in tasteful Art Deco style that harked back to an era long since forgotten. I was glad to collapse in bed after such a long journey. The only worries on my mind were snakes and spiders that were probably surrounding our room as we slept. This was a country unlike any we have been to so far and I was looking forward to my stay...Tomorrow couldn't come soon enough!

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Asian Adventure - Last Day In Korea, 10 May 2019

1/8/2019

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The 10th May is our last day in South Korea. Darrell's flight to Singapore and Australia departs early tomorrow morning with our scheduled flight to Siem Reap leaving at 7.15pm. It's going to be a long day, so all of us want to make the most of the time we have left.

Suffering with a hangover Darrell and I got up at midday, the first time we had actually slept in during this vacation. My Aunt was spending the day in the Demilitarized Zone, between North and South Korea, leaving Darrell and I a precious few hours together before his departure.

We decided to go for a walk in Namsan National Park, not far from our hotel. We spent time chatting about the future and discussing just where our lives our at the moment. Neither of us were sure about the direction we are heading in, especially when we are living so far apart. Darrell's Mother continues to confound her Doctors and is remarkably stable considering her Cancer diagnosis. At the moment we will both continue to do what is best for our respective families. We were able to confirm our intentions to see each other once again in October, when Darrell flies to the UK, but for now we would just enjoy a beautiful afternoon in the park; nothing stressful or taxing, just a chilled day in beautiful surroundings, the like of which we will probably never see again.

Namsan Park was glimmering in the heat of the day, the sun shining intensely. A group of young Korean boys were practicing Tiquando on a stage erected in the entrance to this popular tourist destination. The numerous waterfalls and features, that were situated all over this oriental landscape were a welcome respite from the heat of the day. Sitting, talking, reminiscing about times both good and bad, in a setting so picturesque and breathtaking added an extra dimension to our conversation. When you are in the company of such resplendency, your problems don't seem so bad after all!

A short walk from the National Park, towards Myeongdong we visited another cat cafe, popular here in Korea. Darrell and I have always had a love of cats, so it was appropriate that we should spend another hour or so surrounded by more feline friends. The cats here were far more active than they were at the 'Hello Cat Cafe,' we had visited earlier in the week. It was clear this space was designed to cater for the needs of cats, and not those who were coming to visit. There were plenty of toys and apparatus to mimic a more natural environment and the resident cats seemed happy and relaxed.

We both sat down at a table in the corner, with a cold cup of lemon juice and waited for the cats to come over. These animals really are the best medicine, when you are feeling down and stressed. With Darrell returning home and Aunt Trisha and I boarding yet another flight, my anxiety levels were high. Enjoying time away from the busy city of Seoul, protected from the pollution, imposing buildings and thronging crowds is a tonic; you can see why so many people enjoy these wonderfully welcoming places and understand why they are so sought after. This has been the most memorable aspect of my time in South Korea, a memory I will cherish for ever!

In the evening my Aunt treated us both to a meal at Calice Italian Bistro, once again in Myeongdong. The restaurant was at the bottom of a large five star hotel and was tastefully furnished, overlooking the main strip. The large bi-fold doors at the front of the building were open, letting in a soothing gentle breeze, perfect for cooling down after the blisteringly hot day. First impressions were good, as we sat at our table, waiting to be served. Aunt Trisha was wearing a brooch that Darrel's Mother had given her as a present, which went perfectly with her outfit. The ambience was impeccable, for our last day in Korea.

We were served by a young Korean girl, who was clearly on her first day at the restaurant and seemed to be rather nervous, calling over her bosses several times, to check her order. She was however polite, like every other Korean we had encountered. The Chef and owner spoke perfect English and recommended different dishes for us to try. I chose beef with Spinach and truffles; not the biggest of portions, but it tasted fantastic.

Once again we took the time to talk about what lies ahead and we were all hopeful for the future. It is difficult having to traverse the globe in order to see your partner, but it does make for a more interesting life. We have both been able to see places that we would have never visited under normal circumstances and met some wonderful characters on our journey. Korea has been an eye opener for all of us, but more so for me, because I actually liked the place and enjoyed every aspect of my time here. When we first arrived, I thought Seoul would be just like every other city we have seen before, but actually it was a lot more than that. The cultural explosion that greeted us was unforgettable, I have been so impressed by every detail of life here. The architecture, art and food have all been out of this World. Both Darrell and I agreed to return to this less explored part of the planet again one day, but until then we can at least take the memories of an exceptional, extraordinary and evocative five day expedition home with us, memories that will never fade, enduring impressions, like time itself!

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Asian Adventure - Birthday at Bukchon!

25/7/2019

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It felt wonderful waking up in Seoul on my Birthday. Pulling back the curtains in the lounge of our apartment, the sun was out and it looked like we were in for another hot day. Darrell was already awake, coming over as I walked out the door, giving me a card and a 'Korean Cat,' a cuddly toy he had bought from Seoul tower a day or so before. As I slowly awoke, still tired from the previous days walking, I sat down and read the many messages I had received from back home in the UK. Today I was 48 years old, approaching my fifties and happy to be spending the day with my husband and Aunt, doing the things I wanted to do.

With a love of history that goes back to my school days thirty four years, I chose to begin my Birthday with a tour of Bukchon Hanock Village. This six hundred year old settlement is the best example of a traditional working urban environment in Seoul today and was an absolute dream to visit.

Seoul is a large sprawling city; it's modern, gleaming streets and imposing architecture can be seen wherever you go, each building appearing bigger and better than the last. Imagine my surprise when I got off the metro underground system and began my short walk to this historic site and discovered an altogether different, customary, characterful and calming terrain, situated slap bang in the middle of this amazingly vibrant city.

The approach to Bukchon is littered with small cafe's, shops full of Korean handicrafts and memorable architectural delights, including a beautiful Catholic Cathedral, prominently situated at the forefront of this traditional buddhist community. I was aghast by the level of care and commitment shown by the Korean residents, in preserving their heritage. This is a functioning village, people still live and work here. As an observer, looking into their lives I was grateful for their welcome, as we walked around the narrow streets, taking photographs and looking in awe at history in the making.

Many of those visiting Bukchon were wearing traditional Korean dress and most were happy to have their photographs taken, as they went about their business. Politely and with dignity, they made way for the tourists that flock to this Korean Landmark. You could see how proud they were of their village and the wider city of Seoul, showing just how far these people had come since the Korean war in the 1950s. The contrast between old and modern is stark. As one meanders around Bukchon, one is conscious of being in the middle of a modern metropolis, with high skyscrapers framing the landscape beyond. This is a place I will always hold in my memories and look forward to seeing again in the future!

After a good few hours of siteseeing, we had a traditional Korean lunch near the village, which was delicious, as all the food has been in this country. Once again I ate with chopsticks and am persevering with them everyday on this holiday. I will never be an expert eating with these utensils but at least I have tried. I suppose today was the day I truly fell in love with Korea and really want to see more of this cultural gem.

After Bukchon we went to Changdeokgung Palace, much larger than Deoksugung Palace we visited yesterday. Changdeokgung is probably the most loved of all Royal residences and is visited daily by thousands of people. I was astonished by how big this complex is. Building after building, perfectly preserved and painted in traditional Korean colours. Interestingly only thirty percent of the original buildings remain in tact, but what there is, is breathtaking. In 1997 this site was added to the UNESCO World Heritage List and it is easy to see why. Reporting their decision to include Changdeokgung, the UNESCO Committee stated the Palace was an 'outstanding example of Far Eastern palace architecture and garden design" being exceptional because the buildings are "integrated into and harmonized with the natural setting' and adapted 'to the topography and retaining indigenous tree cover!'

This trip to Korea has opened my eyes on many levels. I never really knew much about this country prior to my visit, but today as I write this blog entry I am fully versed in the outstanding history that oozes around every city block, at least in Seoul. Changdeokgung Palace is a fine example of oriental design and inginuity. I have to keep reminding myself that this structure was built in the 14th century and looks as perfect today as it did then. A trip here is a trip to the heart of the Korean nation!

In the evening after a few hours rest we went out for a few drinks, stumbling across another Korean landmark, this time contemporary in construction and rather modern in its concept. An unused motorway has been turned into a city park with landscaped canal, waterfalls and places to sit, take in the city skyline and enjoy a relaxing hour or so; a project that looked towards the future. It was very strange seeing this popular attraction in such a busy metropolitan setting, but was yet another testimony to the creativity of Koreans.

Just a few minutes away was an English pub - The Shakespeare, serving rather expensive craft beer in a typically British setting. On the surface, this seemed like a popular destination, with businessmen and visitors alike enjoying the ambience and winding down after a busy day. Although we were happy to sit and chat for a while, we moved on to a more lively bar, a few yards down the busy thoroughfare. After several half pints of stella, costing the same as a pint in the UK, we were done for the evening, making our way home through the still thronging streets with a brief stopover at McDonalds.

This was a Birthday like no other and one I shall remember for many years to come. I really couldn't have asked for more than spending my time in Seoul, surrounded by history and the ones I love. This is a day I still dream about, remembering with fondness the experiences I shared, a day that couldn't have been more perfect, relaxed, thoughtful, without stress and looking forward to the year ahead!

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Asian Adventure - Modern Gangnam & The Ancient Deoksugung Palace, 8 May 2019

27/6/2019

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Today was Gangnam day; the three of us were heading towards K-Star Road, where the famous Gangnam district is situated. The road is dedicated to the fashionable teen pop culture, that Korea is famous for. My little Cousin Ruby is into all things Korean at the moment. She sits in front of the television, glued to the latest Korean soap opera or listening to her favourite Korean band. Modern day Korea is a World apart from the traditional side of this country. The two contrasting styles sit happily side by side, in Seoul, a city that has evolved dramatically over the last sixty years and embodies modernity in all its forms. High tech is the order of the day and Gangnam pays homage to a growing culture and lifestyle that older generations would find hard to quantify. However the wide open boulevards, spectacular architecture, beautiful people and well kept sidewalks of this neighbourhood offer a chance to explore new and equally as interesting experiences!

Situated the length of K-Star Road, there are small bear like 'emoji's,' each one depicting a particular band or musician unique to K-Pop culture in Korea. As a novice in such matters, I was a little dismissive of the whole place. Korean pop really isn't my thing and like most of the customs that surround the K-Pop scene, I find it banal and far to kitsch for my taste. Having said that it is extremely popular in Korea and as a nation, they are proud of the music their country manufactures. The songs they produce are popular all over the World and I can understand why. Teenagers like this music because it is so different, young and vibrant, rather like the modern day Korea it seeks to emulate.

Walking down towards the river we stumbled upon some fantastic street art on display. I am a big fan of Graffiti and this form of expression; coming from Portsmouth I am well used to such visual displays. The one thing that has struck me about my time in Korea is just how modern Seoul is. This underground art, shows just how far this part of Asia has come, finding its place in the modern World. It wasn't too many years ago, that this tiny nation was considered a third World country; it's come a long way since then!

Our next stop was Deoksugung Palace, a very special place in the heart of Koreans. This is probably the inhabitants of Seoul's favourite royal palace. Members of the Korean Royal Family lived here right up until 1910, when Korea was annexed by Japan. Of all the palaces I visited here, this was by far my favourite too, a mixture of the ancient Korean style and the more classical European design.

The complex is made up of a number of buildings, wonderful architecture painted in the traditional Korean colours, with a big influence on Blue/Green, which represents the East. The west is white, red is south, north is black and the centre is yellow. This type of design is called dancheong and refers to traditional decorative colouring on buildings for the purpose of style. On a purely practical level the paint is used to protect the buildings from changes in temperature. Symbolically, the patternation also signifies the rank and social status of the residents of these stunning constructions.

Like other historic sights we have visited, these beautiful structures have been preserved and expertly looked after, creating a public space out of what was once a private inner sanctum. On the day we arrived, there were many people waiting to go through the large imposing gates at the entrance to Deoksugung Palace. We were also lucky enough to arrive just in time for the changing of the guard, which was a special experience harking back to an altogether different era. As someone who is fascinated by royal history, both in the UK and abroad, I was in awe at the spectacle being played out before me, right in the middle of a busy intersection in the centre of Seoul.

Next to the ancient buildings of Deoksugung, stands a newer palace, equally as beautiful and more purpose built for the royal family of the time, allowing them to live a more comfortable lifestyle. This newer building is a reminder of colonial and European influence on Korean life. The wonderful gardens, ponds and water features add a air of sophistication to this tale of two palaces. I was taken aback by the sheer scale of this place and could have spent hours sitting, looking at this amazing oasis in the middle of a sea of concrete.

We stopped for a late lunch in a small family run restaurant, just outside the palace walls. This was the best meal yet in Korea, all cooked by a single Korean lady. There were no waiters or other members of staff, just this charming woman, who made us feel completely at home, while she busied herself in the kitchen. The cost of the meal, including three large beers? 34,000 won, which equates to about twenty pounds. This was real Korea and I felt relaxed and happy to be spending time with Darrell and my Aunt in such an historic setting. Korean food seems to suit my constitution and there hasn't been anything I haven't enjoyed while I have been here.....

......However as we left the centre and headed back towards our apartment and Myeongdong, we were confronted by a lone protestor, wearing an A board. On each side of the board, graphic pictures of dogs and cats being slaughtered for meat. The sign simply said 'Stop the Killing,' in English and Korean. It was a large reminder of exactly where we were and yes Koreans do eat animals we don't in the West. Up until now I hadn't seen any cats or dogs being ill treated, but I was aware of restaurants selling specifically dog and cat meat and chose to walk away.

Seoul seems to be a rather open society, at least on the surface. Adult sex shops sit happily next to restaurants selling dubious food still swimming in tanks, including, shockingly for me, turtles and exotic fish. Yet the etiquette expected in everyday life indicates a more reserved, quiet, respectful population. No one bats an eye when they pass a hardcore private shop, yet frowns upon a lack of manners, from a rather confused tourist like me. I find Koreans fascinating and for the most part, engaging and a delight to be around. Something inside of me wants to know more about these enchanting people.

We spent the evening walking around Myeongdong, while Darrell looked for a new pair of shoes. One would think that with all the shoe shops in this shopping district, Darrell would have found something, but no. Exhausted we popped into McDonalds, for one of their Asian burgers, not where I really wanted to go, but since this is Darrell's eatery of choice, I gave in, just this once!

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Asian Adventure - Historic Namsangol Hanok Village and The Cat Cafe, 7 May 2019

22/6/2019

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Had a fantastic nights sleep for a change in our Seoul apartment last night. This is the third time zone we have arrived in and the jet lack is continuing to take its toll. With all the site seeing and walking about I am feeling tired most days. Last night my head must hit the pillow and I went out like a light. This morning was the first day I have felt this good. After a quick shower, I made my way to the convenience Store at the bottom of the street where our hotel is situated, it was time to get a few provisions. I have a lot of washing to do while Darrell and my Aunt take a trip up to the Seoul Tower; obviously not my thing, so the perfect time to sort things out!

It was great to spend a little bit of time on my own this morning, just pottering around the apartment, washing machine on, watching Korean television with subtitles, in between blogging and scanning through social media. This place really does feel like home! I know Darrell and I will never be able to afford to live in Korea, but everything about it, from the culture to the people that live and work here, really gives me a feeling of warmth and security. Seoul itself feels safe, unlike other large cities I have stayed in in the past; today is a good day to be alive!

We all have a lot planned for today. Despite spending the bulk of our journey in Korea, we still want to see a lot of sites, so need to fit as much in as we can each day. Our first stop this Tuesday is Namsangol Hanok Village, literally just around the corner from our hotel.

This ancient Korean settlement is like nothing I have seen before. Of course I have seen similar villages and towns on television, but never something so beautiful close up, preserved for all of us to experience and enjoy. There is so much to look at, so much to see, so little time. Namsangol is surrounded by Myeongdong district, there are tall buildings on every side, as if they are protecting this architectural gem from the ravages of city life. Namsangol is nothing like the area that grew up around it and is an oasis surrounded by perfectly manicured gardens and water features, statues and foliage, an escape from the heat of the afternoon sun.

As I walked around, chatting with Darrell and Trisha I remember thinking how lucky we were to be here. Not many people from my neck of the woods gets to see the things I have, not just here but all over the World. When I look at the turmoil my life is in, without a permanent home, I am at least brought back to reality and gently reminded how different my journey is!

We spent a good few hours walking around Namsangol, the first of many treasures we hope to discover in Seoul. Asian history is second to none. I remember as a child watching the television series 'Monkey,' thinking to myself, how I would like to journey to that part of the World one day. Well I'm not quite in China or Japan, but I am pretty close and as a first step into the far east, it's a great place to start. Korea shares many characteristics with its larger neighbours and this beautiful Honok Village has opened my eyes to the wider picture and the hope that one day I will be able to travel to other countries, with similar, imposing architecture and histories. This is a great place to start our adventure in Seoul and an even better path to enlightenment!

After a trip to Namsangol, we headed down the hill towards the centre of Myeondong, a busy shopping and business district in the heart of the City. The roads were full of traffic and there were crowds of people wherever we went. Most of the locals were wearing the obligatory face mask to keep pollution at bay, so we decided to pop into a local pharmacy to purchase some of our own and 'do as the locals do.' The high pollution levels are particularly noticeable in Seoul, far more than they seem to be back home in Portsmouth, at times the smell can be overpowering, as car exhausts and city living pierce the senses. Suitably attired we continued our walk through town.

The shops were very similar to what one might expect in a typical British High Street. The usual array of clothes, shoes and cosmetics shops filled every available space. Occasionally a convenience store, the odd gift shop and lots and lots of electrical stores, bars and restaurants serving a wonderful selection of exotic food. Fresh fish is of course a staple for Koreans and everywhere you walk, you see live fish waiting to be served to a hungry population. Not a great advertisement for a squeamish consumer like me, put a part of life here in Asia!

At the top of a rather tall building in one of the many side streets of Myeondong there was the Cat Cafe. Cat Cafe's are wide spread in Korea, just like Japan and China. They allow people access to cats who wouldn't usually be able to own one of their own. Most people live in High rises and do not have the space for any pets, so these are ideal places to relax and spend time with animals that you are particularly fond of. There were also dog and even Meerkat Cafe's too, something we didn't experience. It is ethically wrong to keep wild Meerkats in confined spaces and we couldn't be sure if any diseases were being carried by these wild creatures. That is of course true for cats as well, but I guess we felt more at ease with the cat cafe concept.'

As one entered the cafe, one was asked to remove outside shoes and put on slippers, in order to not bring in outside bugs and germs. I think we paid about eight pounds to come into the venue, which included a soft drink as well. Our outer garments were put into plastic bags and hidden away under seats where we sat. We were each given a blanket and waited for the cats to come to us.

There must have been twenty cats in the room, more coming in all the time, every breed, colour shape and size, all waiting to be petted and made a fuss of. We also purchased some cat food from the reception, feeding these pampered pets, encouraging them to sit and chill for a while. The afternoon was a delight, spending a few hours away from the hustle and bustle of Seoul, alone with our thoughts and a cat on our lap. My favourite was a Sphinx, curled up in a cover, who reminded me of our Lily who sadly died a few years ago. This was an encounter I would love to repeat again!

In the evening, after freshening up at the apartment we walked further on down, past Myeondong and towards the night market, where we bought some souvenirs and presents for family and friends back home - fridge magnets, ornaments and niknaks. The usual display of produce was on sale, some less appealing than others and being Korea, there were so called designed goods on every market stall, real or fake I have no idea!

Like everywhere we walked there were throngs of people, interestingly very few tourists. It did seem at times, that we were the only travellers there. Seoul wasn't the usual destination, but so far it was mine. I had fallen for this city and all it had to offer! I decided to taste some street food from what looked like a clean and reputable seller. Nothing over the top or even meat based, just a stick of grilled cheese, which tasted great. There were plenty of other choices on offer, just not what I wanted. Things with heads and legs, just wasn't on my remit today. Thinking about it now, I am aware that all of us in the West are rather sheltered from the realities of life and what we eat. In Asia, you see every stage of preparation for the food you consume....Is that really so wrong?

On the way home we stopped for dinner at an Indian restaurant just around the corner from the hotel. The dining area was situated in the basement of a tall building of what looked like offices; it was a rather strange experience sat in an area with no windows or doors to the outside, but we thought we'd give it a go and chose a rather traditional Indian affair, which was tasty enough. The standards were not quite as good as they would be back in the UK, but nevertheless we were surprised to find an Indian restaurant in the first place, which did make a pleasant change from all the oriental cuisine we had been eating up until now. The perfect end to a perfect day!

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Asian Adventure - Hong Kong to South Korea, 6 May 2019

9/6/2019

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I was up at 4.30 am today as I prepared for the next stage of our journey to South Korea. To be honest I wasn't sad to see the back of Hong Kong. It was indeed an experience like no other and I was pleased to have visited the 'Pearl of the Orient,' but for me, it was just too busy, in your face and difficult to navigate. Together with the pollution, heavy traffic and high western prices, I much preferred our stay in Hanoi. Of course mine is just one opinion and I am sure many other travellers have enjoyed this city, but as I have got older, I am looking for different things from a holiday and a more quiet, measured and relaxing adventure would have been preferable.

We grabbed a taxi outside the Dorsett Mongkok, which quickly took us to Kowloon Station at a cost of just five pounds. On arrival, amazingly, we were able to check our baggage in for our flight at the train station, in what was a very painless exercise. This was modern Hong Kong working at its best, how many other cities should follow suit? Not having to check in luggage at the airport was a godsend and allowed for a final stress free few hours. I have never experienced this kind of organisation at any other destination I have flown to; there really are things Hong Kong can do well!

The train journey to the airport was fast and we were there in no time. We passed tall skyscrapers, roads resting above open sea and countryside, busy shopping districts and lines and lines of traffic; drivers impatiently waiting in queues, horns beeping, the sounds of street traders and commuters just audible above the noise of the train. This was a city of contrasts, the haves and have nots, rich and poor, modern and ancient, all happily coexisting side by side in this melting pot in the South China Sea; this was our final farewell and the end of our expedition to the stunning, amazing, formidable Chinese territory of Hong Kong!

We are currently on the Hong Kong Express travelling to Seoul, which should take us about three and a half hours. HK Express is a budget airline like Ryanair, no frills and for the first time we have to pay for food - about sixty five dollars or just over six pounds for a chicken curry - reasonable, when you compare the price to European carriers and it didn't taste too bad either.

Suddenly half way into the journey we are suffering extreme turbulence, the worst I have ever experienced, it feels like we are going to die. At the moment I am grabbing hold of the seat in front, rigid with fear, closing my eyes hoping for divine intervention, in between writing of course. My Aunt has just been woken up by the mayhem on board, so I know it's bad...NOTHING EVER WAKES HER UP!

At times I made a shriek or two as the plane jolted violently from right to left. This was indeed the journey from hell I was expecting, we couldn't land soon enough, but we survived another day as we arrived in Seoul bruised and battered!

Like Hong Kong the journey from Incheon Airport to the centre of Seoul was perfect. Sitting on the train the first thing I noticed was the amount of young lads, no more than eighteen years old dressed in military uniform. I later found out that national service is compulsory for eighteen to twenty eight year olds. The carriages were immaculate and everyone respectful. A small cuddly toy with the name 'Arex' emblazoned across its chest also sat on each seat nearest the door, this was to signify a space for pregnant ladies; such an initiative in the UK would be greeted with vandalism and scorn, yet Arex sat there happily, waiting for his or her next customer to sit down. Now I believe Arex is the name of the train operator, but a cute enough name for the little emoji tied to the hand rail. Oddly I didn't notice the same courtesy paid to disabled passengers, strange in such a progressive society!

After arriving at our first destination, it was time to navigate probably one of the biggest underground systems I have ever been on. We got off at a stop close to where our hotel was, and decided to take a taxi the rest of the way, since we had no idea where we were heading. This was easier said than done. After finding the taxi stop, we were firstly greeted by a large queue or people, then just when we thought we had finally got a cab, a rather confused irate driver refused to take us, not having any room for our cases in the boot of his car, which had been taken up by a large LPG cylinder. This did seem rather odd, since passengers have luggage and need to use public transport. For a large modern city, there appeared to be, at least on the surface, a distinct lack of understanding for the needs of tourists; not a great start!

We were by now tired, hungry and a little bit exhausted, so after conversing with a lovely Korean gentleman, who did his best to help, to no avail, we decided to go back to the station and get the train once again, this time heading to Myeongdong, a few blocks from our hotel. Confusion with tickets, getting on the wrong train and short tempers eventually got us to our destination, the Oriens Hotel and Residencies where we were staying in a seventh floor apartment!

The apartment was modern and tastefully decorated; just where we needed to be at the half way point of our journey. We chose to stay in a self contained flat because it offered us the opportunity to experience the real Seoul. It also allowed us to do some much needed washing after ten days travelling, as well as the ability to come and go as we pleased, without inflexible hotel rules and regulations.

As I looked out of our apartment window, looking over the buildings of Seoul, I suddenly felt at ease and happy to be here. I had a feeling I was going to like this place and our large spacious retreat for the next week was the quintessential base for our trip to this Asian metropolis! South Korea is not the usual holiday destination and it showed, from the moment we arrived, but that is what makes this place so special, leaving a lasting impression, that I still dream about today!

After freshening up and a quick change of clothes, we had just enough time for dinner and we didn't have to walk too far to enjoy some impressive Korean cuisine. A small restaurant just off a busy street in Myeongdong, was open serving local dishes, that I can only describe as mouthwatering. For a reasonable thirty pounds we had a huge array of food, all freshly cooked to order and a couple of beers each. This was a great price; I had heard some horror stories about the costs in Korea, so this was a gentle introduction. Already Seoul was streets above Hong Kong; the food was far better and most importantly the people were friendly and a delight to be around. Everyone wanted to help and make sure we had everything we needed, the standards of service were impeccable!

Switching on BBC World News on our return to the hotel we were greeted by two major news stories - the birth of the Duke and Duchess of Sussex's new baby boy Archie and news in the Korean Times, that Kim Jong Un had fired missiles from North Korea.

Korean Television had wall to wall coverage of the missile firing and were showing a series of public information films, explaining what to do in the event of a strike....Not particularly comforting on our first day, but certainly brought home to me, exactly how far away from Britain we were. Korea would offer many surprises during our stay and we were lucky enough to be there at such a historic time!

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Asian Adventure - Chi Lin Nunnery, 5 May 2019

6/6/2019

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Yet another dull, grey and rainy day in Hong Kong, but that didn't distract from our visit to the beautiful Chi Lin Nunnery, situated in the heart of the city, surrounded by skyscrapers, busy highways and all the trappings of a modern World. Quite simply, the nunnery was a stunning destination and the highlight of my trip to this little piece of China!

We got a taxi from outside of our hotel; the half hour, 5 kilometre journey to Chi Lin, cost just sixty Hong Kong Dollars, about six pounds. I have a lot of blisters on my feet from all the walking yesterday, so it was comforting being able to sit in a car for a while, rather than adding to the pain I was feeling; a taxi ride was just what the Doctor ordered!

Hong Kong is known for its tall buildings and bustling, tireless lifestyle, so today it was perfect to spend time walking, relaxing and comtemplating, without rushing. Chi Lin Nunnery is one of the wonders of Hong Kong and I was looking forward to spending time here; I wasn't disappointed. I have always had an interest in Asian architecture, customs and culture, which on the surface looks calm and peaceful, but like any civilisation this part of the continent has suffered its fare share of struggles, which can also be seen in the history that surrounds Chi Lin. This religious site is truly wondrous, an oasis in the middle of urban sprawl, framing the nunnery perfectly. From every angle you can see the city outside, the modern in stark contrast to the old.

As we drove up to the complex, I couldn't have imagined what lied within the walls that surrounded it. At first glance the structure looked pretty unassuming and it isn't until you enter through the gates that you realise the magnificence inside. One is immediately greeted by a panoramic view of Chi Lin, the city skyscape beyond and in the centre, the prepossessing welcoming gardens of Nan Lian, so popular with residents and tourists alike. I was awestruck by the enchanting foliage in the gardens, Buddhist architecture - The great Maitreya Hall, golden statues around every corner, the well maintained lotus ponds, Bonsai Tea Plants and intricately carved artifacts, an echo of the Tang Dynasty it was intended to imitate. This was my kind of place, a piece of history I was happy to explore.

As I walked around the gardens I genuinely felt emotional, vehemence running wild with my senses. Little old me, was able to travel to Hong Kong and see first hand the sites unfolding before my very eyes. Travelling the World is something special to be savoured and enjoyed, after all not everyone can see what I have and continue to experience as I journey around the far east. This is a trip predominantly about meeting Darrell, but our circumstances has given us an opportunity to see Countries, others can only dream of seeing. Hong Kong isn't my cup of tea, it isn't a place I could or would want to live, but I can appreciate just what makes this autonomous territory tick. It really is where east meets west and modernity sits happily side by side with ancient architecture and I am so glad I was able to traverse this small part of China. The 'Fragrant Harbour' is a great introduction to the mainland, a trip I hope to make in the future. The words I write and thoughts expressed today are at the forefront of my impressions as I quietly meander through time! This historic monument at the top of Diamond Hill is a special location and will always have a poignant place in my heart. It is doubtful I will return here again, so I am glad it will be my enduring memory of Hong Kong!

My Aunt and Darrell took a trip around Hong Kong on The Star Ferry in the afternoon. Despite wanting to join them, I decided better of it after a travelling to the harbour on the hotel shuttle bus and noticing just how bad the weather really was. I wasn't particularly happy about sitting on a boat in the rain in any case. As soon as we arrived, I travelled straight back, preferring the comfort of the Dorsett Mongkok. Anxiety did once again get the better of me that day, but it actually was beginning to get somewhat easier. When you suffer with agitation and in some cases panic attacks, big cities can be a major source or trigger. I imagine it is difficult for my Aunt and Darrell to understand the feelings I have, but I am not in control of them at the moment. I am happy enough to do what I can and even happier just to be near Darrell, the fact anxiety is playing a role in the trip, just shows me how much I have changed in the last four years and I can at least now adjust my plans when travelling in future.

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Asian Adventure - The Streets, 4 May 2019

2/6/2019

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Breakfast at the Dorsett Mongkok was exceptional, just like the Light Hotel in Hanoi. I have always considered standards to be higher in Asia - the hotels, service and of course the breakfast. The amount of different types of food on offer was large, certainly not the miserable displays I have consumed in continental Europe; this was a banquet fit for a king. You may well take the boy out of England, but you can't take England out of the boy - naturally I chose English fayre, or rather the Hong Kong equivalent, which was pretty good. We ate as much as we could before the day ahead, by now standard practice. Navigating the streets of Hong Kong on a full stomach was preferable to a rumbling belly. The restaurant on the second floor was busy, as an early start beckoned, a walk through the famous streets of Kowloon was the plan, nothing too strenuous on our second day in this large thriving city, the pearl of the orient!

It must have taken us an hour to walk to Nathan Road. Rain was spitting ever so slightly and I know we were all glad to see the bright lights of Hong Kong's famous shopping district. People were gathering on corners taking photographs, laden with heavy shopping bags full of designer clothes and bargains from one of the many department stores, that patronise the area!

We decided to find somewhere to eat in one of the many Cāntīng Houses at the top of a shopping mall on the periphery of Hong Kong's famous district. After much deliberation we settled on a restaurant over looking the shops and bustling road below and sat down waiting to be served. We ordered a beer to start, which we were informed wasn't possible. This was rather confusing, since we were sat right next to a bar, advertising alcohol for sale, draft Hong Kong beer on tap and bottles of wine on display. Maybe it was just tourists who couldn't drink? Maybe we just weren't allowed to drink before midday? We just had no idea. Bewildered, we got up and left, leaving the poor waiter looking dumbfounded! It became blatantly obvious that we wouldn't be able to purchase an alcoholic beverage before 6pm, at least in this part of Hong Kong.

It was strange walking around the streets with all the food on display, freshly cooked to order, yet not a glass of wine or bottle of beer in site, in complete contrast to Europe, which would be full of holiday makers and tourists alike, having an afternoon aperitif before lunch!

We spent the next few hours walking around shops and markets, buying some souvenirs, haggling with vendors and soaking up the lively atmosphere. To be honest as much as I was enjoying my experience in downtown Kowloon, it wasn't particularly different from any other city I have ever been to. Overpriced gear, tourist tat and a population on the move, without a care for anyone but themselves. Pushed and shoved, hit by umbrellas, we stopped in a local restaurant for a bite to eat, without the much needed alcohol!

The food in this small cafe right next door to KFC, which we had considered going in first, was lovely. I chose some of my now favourite Dim Sum and a rather hot rice and beef dish which was tasty, well cooked and filled a hole, at least in the food department. I was still rather miffed we couldn't get a beer, but accepted that wasn't going to happen until we returned to the hotel. The price was rather good too, costing about twenty pounds for three of us to eat. Considering we were in Nathan Road, the Oxford Street of Hong Kong, prices were more than reasonable. Looking over my shoulder outside, I was content to sit and watch the people outside, rushing to their destination, popping out for a bite to eat in their lunch break, or like us admiring the great expanse before them. This was a city like no other and it was a World away from the UK.

The walk back to the hotel was long, having got lost on a number of occasions. Once again I was delighted to observe, contemplate and appreciate the culture on display. Despite Hong Kong's western feel, there was still much about the place that oozed the far east. The way people live and work, buildings so tall they made me shiver inside. Live fish and other aquatic life for sale, consumed fresh from the stalls. Colours and smells unlike anything I have experienced before, all temping the senses, as we eventually found our way home.

At 6pm we went to the Executive Lounge at our hotel, where guests were given complimentary wine and food to consume at leisure. This was something we opted for when booking this friendly hotel and we weren't disappointed. For an hour and a half we sat comfortably, watching the sun go down outside, as Kowloon took on another persona. This was an ever changing neighbourhood of Hong Kong that I liked. It wasn't in the flashy business district with no soul or personality, it was the centre of normal life for most residents of this part of China. The Dorsett Mongkok hotel was the perfect stop for us on our Asian Adventure, centrally situated and within walking distance of bars, shops and eating houses. The Executive Lounge was an added bonus, beautiful serene, comfortable and very much appreciated after a busy day walking.

We managed to get through a good few bottles of wine before leaving our hotel and exploring the local area, enjoying a few well earned beers along the way. Chillworks, just a few blocks up, was a local bar run by by Kenny Mok, who made all of us feel at home, as we sat talking to an Australian couple, also travelling across Asia. This was the evening I felt finally relaxed, despite having a nine pound pint of Stella spilled on me; an accident effectuated by our new Ozzie friend, rather drunk after copious amounts of alcohol. Still it didn't put a damper on the evening and we all chatted the night away. Hong Kong is an amazing place, full of encounters one couldn't find anywhere else, so it was heartening to find this little bar, tucked away in a side street. Chillworks felt like a home from home; do try and make time for a visit, should you find yourself in the area. Hong Kong does seem rather different from the bottom of a glass, sometime alcohol can be an amazing tonic!

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Asian Adventure - Arrival in Hong Kong, meeting Darrell, 3 May 2019

30/5/2019

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The heavens opened on the day we left for Hong Kong. Both my Aunt and I were sad to leave Hanoi, a place we had only stayed in for a short while, giving us a taster of Vietnam. I enjoyed the few days we spent here and why wouldn't I, the people had given us both a warm welcome and I felt at home in this thriving community. As we drove through the streets in our car heading for the airport, I was struck by just how much of this wonderful city we hadn't seen; this is definitely a place I want to return to again one day, but for now it was time to say goodbye, just not forever!

The Vietnam Airways flight to Hong Kong was short and enjoyable. Despite the turbulence at times, I felt relaxed and happy to be heading to this former British Colony, finally meeting my husband after seven months apart. Of course liaising with ones partner on the other side of the World, in a very public environment wasn't my preferred option, but at least we will see each other and be able to spend ten days together, before he flies back to Australia.

Hong Kong Airport was amazing, surrounded by tall buildings in every direction. Before my batophobia could kick in I spotted Darrell and everything was OK. It was emotional seeing him after such a long time apart, and we hugged for what seemed like hours, after a kiss and yet more hugs, suitably composed, we headed towards the airport station, to catch a train to Kowloon, where we would be based for the next few days. Walking towards the ticket office with Darrell did seem very surreal. Our relationship has lived through many ups and downs over the years and I am proud we are still so firmly together, despite our difficult circumstances. People often comment on how strong we are as a couple and travelling thousands of miles, to the other side of the World is yet another indication of our commitment together. There should be no barrier to relationships when you truly love someone, no hurdle is insurmountable!

The train journey to our hotel, The Dorsett Mongkok, was a pleasure; I have always loved arriving in a new place. Watching the scenery pass by as we headed towards Kowloon was fantastic, an unforgettable experience. In truth I was amazed by just how big this part of China is. I have seen Hong Kong on TV and maps before, but it isn't until you actually go there, that you realise the size of the place. As we approached the city itself, the spectacle of this modern, busy metropolis just didn't disappoint in scale. This was indeed a construction marvel and I just couldn't believe how people actually lived and worked in such a vibrant but anxiety inducing city. My immediate impressions were indeed positive; this was unlike any other part of the World I had ever visited before.

From Kowloon Station we got a rather old looking cab to our hotel, all our suitcases tied into the boot, rather precariously, rattling around as we sped along the city streets, dropped neatly outside the door to our modern lǚguǎn for the next few days. The rooms were rather small, as one would expect from an inner city hotel, but they were comfortable and of an extremely high standard. The views across Kowloon from our window were incredible, like nothing I had seen, even after visiting New York. I suppose I was rather taken aback by its size, which did make me feel a little uneasy at times, well I am a country boy at heart!

After an hours rest, we left the hotel and explored the local area; Kowloon was full of life. The smell of fresh fish, Chinese herbs and spices, the traffic fumes. The flashing neon lights located on every building, were just flickering into life, market stalls, packed with colour, fruits and vegetables I have never seen before and street vendors cooking local delicacies for the thronging crowds pouring out of their office buildings, tempted by some Chinese noodles or bowl of dim sum! Hong Kong was alive, gritty, different from what I knew; the sights and sounds of a population on the move, before heading to their tiny apartments on the sixtieth floor of a crowded tower block!

It was nearly 6pm as we headed back to the Dorsett Mongkok for free wine and nibbles in the foyer. We sat chatting with attentive staff and fellow guests alike, asking questions as the lights outside gradually dimmed to dark. Four glasses of red wine later and we left for dinner in one of the streets surrounding our hotel. A Chinese restaurant serving locals, not a tourist in site. The food was different from any Chinese restaurant I had been to in the UK, authentic, traditional, aromatic - I chose Chicken, Fungus and Lily Flower - it tasted out of this World. The chicken still had the bones running through, not something I am used to, but added extra depth of flavour and texture. Of course there was no knife and fork, just chopsticks and an expectation that the sauce was consumed directly from the Chinese porcelain dish.

Fed and watered, three bottles of Hong Kong beer, we headed out into the street, walking around the now heaving thoroughfare. I remember looking upwards, towards the cities in the sky, each building higher than the other, lights illuminating our way, as we traversed the narrow lanes. Kowloon was strangely comforting and secure in a city so vast, my heart pumped harder than ever before!