Roaming Brit

One Year in Australia!

30/9/2023

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Chiang Rai Province and The Golden Triangle - 14 September 2023!

30/9/2023

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Yesterday was the most spectacular experience of our holiday so far. I had arranged a day excursion with 'Get Your Guide' online, before I left for Thailand, to see Chiang Rai province. There is so much to see in Chaing Mai and the surrounding provinces, that I wouldn't have time to fit it all in. I chose to see the iconic White and Blue Temples, as well as a detour to see the ‘Long Neck Karen People,’ and finally a boat ride to The Golden Triangle, encompassing the border of Thailand, Myanmar/Burma and Laos.

I have done many of these excursions before in other countries, and knew pretty much what to expect. An air-conditioned mini bus picked us up from our hotel at 7am, and we drove the short distance to pick up others, on the way to our first stop at The White Temple. There were three people from the United States, two from Italy and two from Spain, nine of us in total. Unsurprisingly, Darrell and I were the oldest people there, with all the others being in their twenties. It honestly feels only yesterday I was that age myself, so it can be quite depressing saying we were the oldest couple in the group, but we are getting older, and that’s not going to change.

The White Temple

It took us about four hours to reach the White Temple in Chiang Rai, after a brief stopover at the Hot springs on the way. Now, this brief stop, was akin to motorway service stations in the UK, but completely different. There were market stalls, shops, hot and cold street food and of course, the hot springs. We were warned by our guide, Eddy, not to touch the water, as it was boiling and would certainly injure us if we went too close. The area on the way to the temple was green and lush and extremely tropical in nature – it was littered with small traditional villages and an abundance of farms and superb mountain views.

The White Temple or 'Wat Rong Khun' is a modern religious building, opening its doors in 1997. It was constructed by Chalermchai Kositpipat, and dominates the skyline for miles around. This was the biggest and in my opinion the most beautiful temple I have ever seen. Being on a tour, it was sad we only had forty minutes to look around this vast complex, but it did give us a taster, should we want to return in the future.

We had both expected rain and had come fully prepared, but as we entered the temple, the sun was shining brighter than ever, reflecting harshly off the mirrored tiled surfaces, everywhere you looked. This place was like a fairy tale, and it was a building where dreams are made. Given the chance, I will be back one day; everyone who travels to Chiang Rai Province, must take some time to go here. Despite the crowds, there are areas to sit, reflect and admire the views.

You do find a lot of the Neo Thai, modernist architecture, all over Thailand, and it does speak volumes for the visionary architects who design and build these vast religious monuments. To look at the building, you would think it has been here years, but in fact, it has only been open for a quarter of a century. I am in admiration of a society who constructs such amazing structures. These beautiful buildings are Thailand's heritage in the making; the west has so much to learn!

The Blue Temple

From The White Temple, we drove twenty minutes to The Blue Temple, or Wat Rong Suea Ten. Once again this is another amazing modern building, built in Neo Traditional Thai Lanna Style, by local artist Phuttha Kabkaew, who was an apprentice to Chalermchai Kositpipat. The Blue Temple is no less impressive, and sits majestically on the edge of Chiang Rai city. I am literally in awe of all the religious buildings I have seen, they are beyond imagination, and so far removed from what we are used to in the west.

When I look at modern, British and European construction, of public and religious buildings, there is a clear difference in style. Thailand looks back towards its traditional roots, while incorporating modern techniques into their buildings; Europe tends to champion new, untried styles of architecture, that more often than not, sits awkwardly in the environment that surrounds it. For me, contemporary Thai architecture is far more athletically pleasing, and blends far better into the local landscape. The modern equivalent in the UK, just never look right and always look out of place; we have much to learn from Thai people, whose spiritual nature exudes in their buildings, even today.

The Baandam Museum

From The Blue temple we travelled to the Baandam Museum or Black House Museum to us foreigners. Designed by Thawan Duchanee, this private art collection displayed in traditional northern Thai buildings, spans 160,000 square meters, and is stunningly alluring and beguiling, sat in the most attractive grounds imaginable. There is also a cat rescue sanctuary on site, with some very well cared for felines, enjoying their best lives. I would have dearly loved to have taken one home, but with Australia's quarantine laws the way they are, that would be impossible. This was a place I could have spent far more time exploring. It was extremely peaceful and calming, even with hoards of tourists in situ.

Long Neck Karen People

Next stop, we visited the ‘Long Neck Karen People’ (Kayan Lawhi) in their settlement, about half an hour drive away. Now, like all of you, I am sure you have seen photographs or documentaries of this once reclusive tribe, who live in the northern mountains of Thailand. The women wear large brass coils around their necks – these are not individually made, as many people believe - they are made from a single piece of metal work, forming a large neck brace, that sits on the collar bone, in one extremely heavy piece of body jewellery.

Before we went we were assured, that the tribe received 100% of the money they made from the sale of local handicrafts and for me, it was a very humbling experience, spending some time with them, watching them at work and play, in their traditional home. All of them were welcoming and very open to questions and photographs. Asking to take a photo was a little embarrassing at times, but I was always sure to buy something from them as well – it felt like the right thing to do.

Walking around the village, I was struck by just how these people live; it is unlike anywhere I have ever been before. I have seen television programmes on similar tribes in the past, but nothing prepares you for the reality, when you see it up close and personal. It was an extremely emotional experience, and I feel truly honoured to have gone to observe their lives, even for a short period of time.

The Golden Triangle

By now, all of us were feeling tired, we had been driving for eight hours or so, but there was one final stop on this tour of Chiang Rai – The Golden Triangle. This is the area that links Thailand, Laos, Myanmar and Burma, and it was the highlight of the tour for most of us. We travelled along the borders of these countries in a rather old rickety boat, observing the differences in geology, geography and construction, and it was very different to what I had imagined.

After being given a bottle of Laos Beer, which tasted wonderful by the way, (Although I’m not sure the driver or other guides should have been consuming the stuff as well, but hey this is Thailand) we took an hour's trip on a long boat up and down the border region. What surprised me more than anything was the construction work going on in Laos. Modern buildings, including Laos’s biggest and tallest skyscraper, were popping up all over the foreshore. According to our guide, this is mainly due to Chinese investment, which has pumped a lot of cash into the area. Myanmar, on the other hand, looks relatively unchanged and sits perfectly into the natural landscape.

I couldn’t help feeling a little sad at what might become of this area, if construction continues at the rate it is, but then much of the natural landscape in this isolated area has changed over the years anyway. I just hope some protections are put in place to preserve what is left of the natural environment, for future generations to come.

For me, this was the experience of a lifetime, seeing things I have only ever seen in books or on TV. I was fortunate to see and observe from a distance, so have a somewhat distorted view of traditional Thai life. However, I am glad I have dipped my toes into Chiang Rai province, it is certainly be an area I would love to return to again!

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The Temples of Chiang Mai - 13 September 2023!

23/9/2023

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We started the day with a rather lacklustre breakfast at the Bodhi Serene Hotel. Quite frankly, compared to the Nouvo Hotel in Bangkok, it just wasn’t great. However, I persevered and at least we were cooked a fresh omelette by the chef. The choice was poor for a superior hotel, and not particularly hot; probably because we were first in the queue this morning, and the food wasn't fully heated through - Whatever the reason, I was a little disappointed to say the least. This b grade breakfast, didn’t detract from the beautiful hotel itself and with me piling on the pounds, it won't hurt if I miss out on this morning ritual, and at least eat a little less than usual.

We spent the day looking around Chiang Mai itself; there are a lot of 'Wats' or religious sites in this second-biggest city in Thailand, and it was the perfect opportunity to just walk around looking at each one. To be honest, there are too many of these temples to see in a few days, so we concentrated our efforts in the square where we are staying. Our hotel is slap bang in the middle, surrounded on each side by a moat/canal. In this area alone there is so much to see and do, and with time limited, it was the perfect place to discover the delights of this colourful area of the city.

The 'Wats' are breathtaking; as you walk along the many roads and narrow alleys in Chiang Mai, you can be sure there is another temple around the corner. The richly decorated monuments and places of worship are unlike anything I have ever seen. The colours are vibrant and intense; more often than not, I would just stand there fixated, aghast, mouth open wide; these wonders of human ingenuity just get bigger and better the more you explore. As a spiritual person, I feel totally relaxed in these beautiful spaces and could just spend my whole holiday sat within their walls.

The temperature was very hot today, and typically, I am nursing a rather red head. I have to keep reminding myself to wear a hat, especially in this tropical climate. The majority of the time there is no sun in the sky, but this is deceptive; It is extremely hot, and yes, you will burn, if you are not suitably covered up. I have certainly learnt this lesson the hard way.

Touring the 'Wats' on foot is no mean task – so far today I have done very nearly, 20000 steps, and it’s only 5.30pm. Surprisingly, though, I have managed to put on 2.6 kg so far; this just goes to show how well I have eaten here in Thailand. The quality and choice of food is just amazing, but my God, the old waist line is bulging.

The best way to explore Chiang Mai is literally on foot. This will help you stay fit and healthy and give you a chance to see things, you would miss in a car or tuk tuk. We have been able to explore behind the polished veneer and look at the other side of life here in Chiang Mai. Like everywhere, there is poverty, and whichever town or city you live in, you are never far away from it. I suppose you would call Thailand a developing country, so there really is more poverty than you would see in say Sydney or London.

Having said that, the people in Chiang Mai are so much friendlier than in Bangkok, except for the girls at 'So Samsen.' Everyone is polite, and unlike Bangkok, there is very little hassle; you are left free to wonder the streets, without people constantly touting for business. This makes Chiang Mai a joy – No matter how much we love Bangkok, the constant eulogising and persuasion tactics were beginning to take their toll. Chiang Mai has certainly been more of a relaxing time, and for that we are grateful.

After three hours of walking, we headed for something to eat, exploring the backstreets and lanes near our hotel, looking for a suitable restaurant. While trying to find somewhere open, we stumbled across an American gentleman, who recommended a German restaurant and beer garden, just around the next bend. We duly followed our nose and found this quaint eatery, tucked away behind some trees, sheltering it from the worst of the heat.

We both decided to go for something western, rather than traditional Thai. For me, I needed to give my stomach a rest and wanted something a little plainer. Darrell had a burger and I had Goulash with red cabbage. The food was as tasty as anywhere we have been in Thailand. What we have noticed, however, is the much larger portions here, than in Bangkok. Personally I’m all for portion control these days, but I can see Chiang Mai is catering for a rather large American market, who demand ever larger meal sizes. This was the first time I actually left food, and probably won't be the last.

The rain started to pour down, as we sat in our hotel room admiring the view. Tomorrow, we have a trip organised to the Golden triangle, so it will be an early night and a very early start in the morning.

Having been here for several days now, I have to say, I am feeling very settled and relaxed in Chiang Mai. You can see why so many tourists come here, it offers something for everyone.

It’s time for me to pop to the ATM, to withdraw yet more money for tomorrow and the rest of the week. This is a place that really doesn’t take cards, so cash is absolutely necessary. At a cost of $10 a time, withdrawing money isn’t cheap; next time I come, I will certainly come fully stocked with cash.

This would be my only pet peeve about Thailand – I wish I had been told to bring more notes, then I would have had a much cheaper ride. However, Chaing Mai is worth every cent, and I’m glad we chose to come here!

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8 Years Married, 28 Years Together - Happy Anniversary!

23/9/2023

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Today both of us are celebrating our 8th Wedding Anniversary, 28 years together. I have written much about our time together in the past, so don't want to go over old ground. I do however want to thank Sherrie Hewson, for the wonderful message she sent us on the occasion of our Anniversary.

We are still together today, despite everything we have been through, in part because of the battles we fought. The harder the fight, the more determined we were to stay together. Following in my late Mother's, and my Father's footsteps, I believe strongly in the power of relationships, and will always do all I can to keep our flame burning bright.

28 years is indeed a long time, but we have so much more to achieve. In Australia, we have everything we ever wanted, and today we continue to build on that success and follow our dreams every day. We are lucky to have been blessed with each other and look forward to continuing on our journey down under, with the continued support of all of you!

Happy Anniversary, may we have many more shared memories together!

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Onwards to Chiang Mai - 12 September 2023!

21/9/2023

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The flight to Chiang Mai from Bangkok left at a rather civilised 1.30pm. We had time for breakfast and a last look around Pranakorn before we left. I had ordered a car from the Nouvo City Hotel, rather than wait for taxis, for our airport transfer; this is a more expensive option, but after the awful flight to Thailand from Australia, we just wanted a seamless transition to our next destination. Thankfully, we weren’t disappointed – our driver was a delight, chatting with us, talking about his life in Bangkok and generally looking after us on our journey to the airport.

Bangkok Airport was busy, as it always is, and I was expecting the same difficulties we had in Perth when checking in. The process at Perth international was a nightmare, but here it was a dream. We used the self-checkout to check in, and it was perfect, not a thing went wrong. We handed over our bags and headed to the domestic departures terminal - there was no hassle or fuss, we just walked straight through. I can only assume this was an easy process due to us only travelling domestically; whatever the reason, it just made the trip that much more pleasant.

We made a quick beeline to Burger King before our flight, since we wouldn’t be arriving into Chiang Mai until nearly three pm, but at a cost of $50.00 it wasn’t cheap. Airports never are to be honest, but this was excessive, especially by Thai standards, and was a lesson learned. Living life out of a suitcase for several weeks certainly has its disadvantages; having to eat out every day is one of them. From aeroplane meals, spicy Thai Food and take away joints, my stomach was doing somersaults this morning.

The flight to Chiang Mai took just over an hour. We flew on the smallest plane yet, and I was expecting a bumpy ride, but nothing could have been further from the truth. There was only slight turbulence and the cloud cover in this mountainous region wasn’t as bad as expected. As we descended into Chiang Mai, straightaway you could tell how different this place was – the cityscape below had turned into a green, mountainous, tropical paradise. There were very few high rise buildings, and it reminded me of my time staying in Siem Reap, Cambodia. Immediately, I knew this would be a place I would fall in love with!

Chiang Mai airport was small, and we were through security relatively quickly. We paid the 150 thb fee for a taxi to the hotel, and waited outside for our number to be called. Our driver was Nam, who was lovely; I was personally so impressed with her, that I arranged for her to take us to the Elephant sanctuary on Saturday. She was extremely knowledgeable about the area and just the sort of person to teach us about life in this part of Thailand. I have to feel comfortable with someone in order to employ their services or indeed form a friendship. She wasn't pushy or demanding, just offered to take us out for the entire day at a very reasonable cost - how could I possibly say no!

The Bodhi Serene hotel, our refuge for the next six days, was so different to the one in Bangkok. This hotel was traditional in style, historic in nature and absolutely stunning inside and out. The view from our balcony, of lush vegetation and trees, in complete contrast to Bangkok, was a highlight of our stay at the hotel. The room itself was extremely well appointed, even though it was older in style. The bathroom was modern, with a shower and luxury circular bath; overall, I was very impressed. After just having had my first night's sleep I can also say the bed was comfortable and unlike the Nouvo Hotel, the Bodhi Serene is quiet – you could literally hear a pin drop!

After unpacking and a taking a brief look around the hotel, we went for a stroll to downtown Chiang Mai – this place really did have the feel of Siem Reap, as I mentioned earlier. It even has a central canal/river in the same way. There are religious sites or 'Wats' dotted around this city of two million, and there was a distinct calm and laid back feel about the place. Nobody hassled us to take a tuk tuk ride, or indeed bothered us at all, and it was a joy just taking our time walking around the streets.

Immediately we stumbled across Wat Saimoonmuang, it was so peaceful just passing through this well cared for site, and the temple in the centre was magnificent. This is what I love about Thailand, you never know what you will see. There are hundreds of monuments, statues and Wats all over Chiang Mai, and Wat Saimoonmuang was a superb introduction.

As dinner time approached, we tried to find somewhere to eat. Now, this was no mean task, when you only have a credit card, and hadn’t drawn out any money. As a warning to any potential travellers, Thailand as a rule prefers cash, wherever you are, except in the large shopping malls of Bangkok, so turning up with no money, like us, is a no no.

We did however find a glorious hotel, called the Airniversary Hotel, tucked away at the end of a road which did take cards. In all my years, I had never seen anywhere like it, it was out of the World. This hotel was like a large jungle tree house, surrounded by vegetation. We wound our way up steep wooden steps to the second floor restaurant, where we had a view of the whole establishment. Looking down over our balcony, there was even a koi carp river running through the middle; stunning would be an understatement.

Like most of the Thai restaurants we have been to, the menu was extensive, and the portion sizes huge. I chose a Vietnamese sausage starter, followed by a Penang Curry, which, was, extremely spicy, but delicious. The food, ambience and especially the service was exceptional. We had a lovely chat with a young lad who worked there, who openly talked about his life. I have so far found the people so much more approachable in Chiang Mai, although 'So Samsen' and the young ladies who work there, is still my favourite place to be, as you would expect.

After a traditional desert of Mango sticky rice and a couple of pints of Chiang, we navigated the narrow streets back to the hotel. It looks like this will be a very different leg of our holiday, and I am looking forward to investigating this city more tomorrow. Today I feel surprisingly relaxed, Chiang Mai appears to have a more chilled out feel, which will be a welcome change from the busy streets of Bangkok! The next five days are going to be interesting, and I am eager to explore!

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Wat Pakham Phasi Chareon and Farewell to Bangkok - 11 September 2023!

20/9/2023

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Well, this isn’t what I would have wanted, but my laptop has decided to pack up on me, so I will be writing my blogs each day in ‘safe mode,’ and publishing them when I get home. I am hoping that I will not have to buy a new PC, especially after an expensive holiday, but what will be, will be, and there isn’t much I can do about it. I personally think that a virus has got into the system, whilst connected to the hotel’s open network.

In many respects, not being able to blog whilst on holiday is a challenge for me, it is something I have always done, for the past nine years at least. I will, however, now have an opportunity to enjoy more of my time in Thailand, without having to spend a good portion of it composing and editing my blog.

Yesterday was an eventful one; we took a tuk tuk down to the bridge over the Chao Prayer River and joined a Long tail Boat Canal tour. This wasn’t something I had planned, but when you employ a less than honest tuk tuk driver to take you somewhere, they inevitably take you somewhere else. He was obviously in the employ of the boat charter company, and made a bit of cash on the side. I don’t blame him, we all have to make a living somehow.

The short three-hour boat tour cost us about $90.00 each, which was extremely excessive, when you consider we were just sat on a boat. There was no commentary about our route or the history of the city canals we were visiting. Don't get me wrong I was glad we saw them, but really, there needs to be more organised tours, not a dodgy diversion by a tuk tuk driver on the make!

Standing at the quay side, we were greeted by a long, thin, rickety boat, with barely enough room for two people sat side by side. The orange life jackets sat there looking at us ominously, as I was helped gingerly aboard by the driver, who must have been no more than fifteen; I couldn’t help thinking, what the hell have I got myself into. Nevertheless, I had paid an exorbitant, 3600 thb for this once in a lifetime experience and wasn’t about to back out now.

Within a few minutes we were off at what seemed like break neck speed, smoke bellowing from the back of the long tail boat, which was rocking dangerously side to side. Occasionally the young chap driving would shout out for us to move one way or another, just to keep the boat stabilised and for the most part, we all hung on for dear life - in truth it was quite exhilarating.

Motoring down the large open river, we were passed by larger vessels; the resulting swell caused us to shake violently. As a non-swimmer, I just said a little prayer and hoped for the best. Even when we turned direction into the entrance to the canals that surround the city, the boat fell downwards at such a severe angle, that the side almost touched the water. It was definitely a hair-raising experience and left me feeling rather anxious to say the least.

From the large Choa Prayer river, we entered the canals. Since Bangkok is called the Venice of the East, I had high expectations, which were most certainly not realised. On either side of the canals, there were poor, ramshackled and dilapidated homes, unlike anything I had ever seen. These were poor shanty towns, with no amenities and people fighting to survive. I had seen similar living conditions, when I had visited the floating villages of Tonle Sap, but even they were positively palatial in comparison. Despite the expense, I believe this is something tourists should do; you need to see how real people live and not just take a tour of the many temples or go shopping in Siam Square!

Winding our way around these narrow inlets, you are struck by the contrast of old and new. Yes, there are run down homes, but occasionally, you will see a splendid mansion rising between the debris. Some of these buildings are glorious, but such a rare occurrence along these canals. On either side of the waterway, there are also religious Wats, the vibrant colours of the Thai architecture dancing off the water as you sail past. Old, new, traditional and modern, all laid bare in this microcosm of Thai life – this was the darker side of Bangkok, and not something every tourist sees; I was glad I did, just to understand the makeup of this fascinating society.

We stopped off at Wat Paknam Phasi Chareon, or the Temple of the Golden Buddha. This was the final Wat, we wanted to see in Bangkok, and we weren’t disappointed. This huge, imposing statue of Buddha, just off one of the canals, dominates the skyline for miles around. The sumptuous gold facade glistens strongly in the bright sun, and I was aghast at its sheer size, it was a truly magnificent site.

We spent a brief half an hour walking around this religious site, and the adjoining monastery. It was a serene, beautiful place, even better with the cats wandering around. As you know, Darrell and I are a sucker for cats and just love being around them. At Wat Packnam they are well cared for thankfully, which isn’t always the case.

The site itself is vast and surprisingly very quiet. There were very few tourists about, probably because this statue is off the beaten track and not in the most accessible of areas. I am constantly struck by the number and quality of the monuments and religious sites, yet just how poor the living conditions are that surround these places of worship. There does seem to be a disparity that I personally feel needs to be addressed.

Our journey back was as bumpy as the journey there. Just under the bridge, the same tuk tuk driver was there waiting for us. He tried his hardest to take us to various different venues on the way back to the hotel, to no avail. This is one of their tricks; they offer you a free ride, if you stop off at shops, where they try and persuade you to buy their wares. Having been here twice, I am well aware of their little ways and just told him to go straight back to the hotel. Eventually, he obliged and we arrived back in one piece.

I am angry I didn't have my wits about me when I agreed to this boat trip. Had I known of the tuk tuk driver's intent, I wouldn't have taken this excursion. Having said that, I am glad I saw the run-down nature of the canals. It was an eye-opener for me, used to western comforts; It was also a learning curve to be more careful when choosing a tuk tuk driver in future!

Farewell Bangkok

In the afternoon, we walked up to Khousan Road, where we grabbed another tuk tuk to the city. This little scooters are three times more expensive than a traditional taxi, but they are fast and an absolute joy to ride on. Winding through the streets of Bangkok, avoiding God knows how many near misses, we made it to Siam Square and the main shopping thoroughfare.

Here we spent a few hours walking around the malls and overhead skywalk, just taking in the site and sounds of this vibrant city. I dearly love this place and with this being our last day, we made the most of our time and bid a final farewell to the hectic, eclectic, bustling city, that will always remain in our hearts. This is our go-to place, neutral ground, not Australia nor the UK. This is a place we both chose and will be a city we visit year after year.

Saying goodbye is never easy, so in the evening we went to say goodbye to Aom and the girls at 'So Samsen.' The heavens had opened up, and the rain was tumbling. The streets around the restaurant were still steaming hot and people were making their way out for dinner. 'So Samsen' was packed, and it felt good sat there, even if I was raging inside about my dysfunctional laptop upstairs in the hotel room.

As we make our way onto Chiang Mai, I am looking forward to seeing a new city in Thailand, in the northern part of the country. Despite the change of pace, with Chaing Mai being a more laid back city, I will not forget Bangkok in a hurry. We will not be back next year, because we have plans to visit Japan, but it will always be firmly in our thoughts and recollections, as we continue to make memories all over the World. Bangkok is, and will always be, our most favourite Asian city!

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Bangkok - An urban paradise - 10 September 2023!

11/9/2023

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Feeling a little worse for wear, Darrell and I spent a quiet day exploring Pranakorn and not venturing too far from the hotel. Sunday was a relaxing day; we ate too much and did very little. I can actually feel the pounds starting to pile on, especially while drinking beer every day. I've actually just looked on Google, trying to find somewhere to weigh myself. Back home in Australia, this is part of my daily routine, here, I haven't weighed myself once. It turns out that most 7-Eleven stores have scales outside the shop, and luckily there is one right next to the hotel. I'll give it a try tomorrow - keeping my weight in check is important for me, especially at my age!

Walking around Pranakorn early on a Sunday morning is a rather strange experience. Darrell pointed out all the places where we had a drink in last night, and in all honesty, I couldn't remember one of them. I can only assume I have selected amnesia, or I was particularly spangled (drunk in layman's terms!) Whenever the reason, I was just glad to be out of the hotel, sauntering around this colourful area. Walking is indeed my life, I do a minimum of, 10000 steps a day, and while I'm on this holiday, I hope to do significantly more.

Exploring Pranakorn early in the day, while everything is relatively quiet, was for the most part a joy. There was still the odd chancer or two at the side of the road, trying to sell us something, but as long as you don't engage in conversation you don't end up out of pocket. I've just learnt to look straight ahead and follow my feet.

I am a huge fan of urban life, and the often gritty street architecture here in Pranakorn is a delight. They call this part of Bangkok, the Venice of the East, and yes it does have canals, but in reality it isn't Venice. The streets around our hotel are full of life, laughter and people trying to survive each day. The buildings often look shabby and run down, which some are, but behind the facades and broken windows there are welcoming people who just want to show you warm Thai hospitality.

At first, a visitor like me can find the whole experience testing. I have felt harassed by different vendors in the past, but as soon as you learn to cope with this local way of life, the touting can become an enjoyable part of your stay. Yes, it can get overwhelming at times, but this is part of Thai culture; even if we don't like it, we should respect it, as a normal every day occurrence.

Since city based holidays are our preferred destination of choice, taking pictures of the urban jungle is part of the journey for me. I don't like taking pictures of normal, sanitised landscapes, often seen in holiday snaps, but prefer to look beneath the surface into real lives, traversing the underbelly of the city I am staying in. Bangkok offers a wealth of culture, rich in local history, and we were in the perfect setting in which to discover just what makes this place tick!

The photographs I took today are of course a personal account of my time in Thailand, but they are more than that - they are a snapshot in time, of a city still recovering from the ravages of COVID. With its developing infrastructure groaning under the weight of its inhabitants, and the thousands of tourists who flock here each year, this is an opportunity to capture this evolving metropolis as it continues to change and grow! I would dearly love to return to Bangkok in fifty years, just to see how much has changed, sadly that will never happen!

Feeling more or less back to normal, after last night's shenanigans, I managed to gingerly consume, a couple of bottles of beer with my meal at So Samsen. I did, however, also try one of their house mocktales, which was delicious. Spending half an hour talking with Aom at the beginning of each meal has been a joy and one of the highlights of my stay in Bangkok. Tomorrow will be our last full day here, and I am already sad at having to leave. It may well be a couple of years before we return again, so hope to make the most of our time, before we depart for Chiang Mai, on Tuesday!

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Wat Pho - A breathtaking experience - 9 September 2023!

10/9/2023

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After spending ten days in Bangkok last year, Darrell and I have seen much of what this city has to offer. Our positive experience in 2022, is what brought us back today. There wasn't one aspect of this place I didn't like - old meets new in this city of contrasts, the Venice of the east has been an amazing introduction to Thailand and I hope to see more and more of this country as the years go by.

Of course, there were some parts of Bangkok we just didn't have time to visit last time, so we have planned to see them this time round. The largest such site, and a must-see place to go, is Wat Pho, which contains a massive, otherworldly statue of the reclining golden Buddha. On Saturday we took to the water, taking a river taxi to this famous religious site or 'Wat,' to explore this extensive complex, right in the heart of bustling Bangkok.

Wat Pho is awe-inspiring - a richly decorated Buddhist temple complex, dedicated to Buddha, situated in the Phra Nakhon District, on Rattanakosin Island. I have read a little about it, and understand it to be one of the oldest religious sites in Bangkok. However, nothing can prepare you for the majesty that confronts you, as you walk through the doors of the Temple of the Reclining Buddha itself. It really does take a lot to impress me, and I was just amazed by the sheer size and opulence of the place; it really is a sight to behold!

We removed our shoes before entering the great hall and walked silently around the golden Buddha. The sun reflected brightly off the lavishly embellished surface of the golden statue. The room itself is similarly adorned with sumptuously decorated works of art, paintings and tapestries. The temple is a place to impress pilgrims and those devoted to the teachings of Buddha. As someone who isn't particularly religious, even I was taken aback.

All around me, people were laying flowers and offerings, the air was thick with incense and people just stood looking upwards, thinking, processing the overload on their senses. The echoing inner sanctum was a welcome break from the searing heat outside, and it was also the perfect place, to just spend time with your thoughts. I stood at Buddha's feet looking back towards his head, just thinking of friends and family no longer with us. In my own way, I said a small prayer and felt at peace, reflecting on a past so different from today.

Outside, we spent several hours wandering around the immaculately manicured grounds. Smaller temples, religious icons, statues and traditional Thai architecture, all existing in perfect harmony; colourful tiled surfaces illuminated from the sun glistened brightly, as we gently strolled around this complex. Like all Wats in Thailand, there is a sense of disconnection with the real world and a deeper understanding of the eternal. This is what makes Thailand so special and a place to visit time after time.

From Wat Pho, we took the boat into the city of Bangkok, where we jumped on the BTS Sky train to Siam Square, for a bit of impromptu shopping. This is the one aspect of Bangkok I love. The Sky train is unique to the city; it isn't the most beautiful architecture in the World, but its brutalist style, a vision of the future with a distinctly 1960s feel, is truly amazing. I am always impressed by this functional, utilitarian metro system sweeping skywards. Of course, it was built this way to accommodate the growing Bangkok population cheaply. This is a far more economical alternative to the underground systems elsewhere in the World.

These high-rise structures offer a glimpse into another World. Whole communities and neighbourhoods flourish above ground, along walkways, covered with canopies, keeping commuters cool in the barmy Bangkok temperatures. This is the complete opposite of the subterranean life so common in London, New York and other major cities. It is almost dystopian in nature and futuristic in appearance.

From Siam Square, we went to the MBK shopping mall, a short walk away. This sprawling complex sells everything you can imagine and in many respects caters for the tourist market. Prices are highly inflated, and you are pestered by shop and store owners as you walk past. This is the one aspect of Thailand I can not stand. You can't even browse in a shop, without somebody breathing down your neck. For that reason, I bought very little while I was there and was happy to leave at the earliest opportunity.

In the evening, the rain came down, in bucket loads. The temperature was still hovering in the mid-thirties and the rain was warm, almost refreshing, but not quite. As soon as the water hit the ground, it evaporated, which makes for a spectacular display. With humidity levels also in the nineties, it was decidedly moist. Personally I thoroughly enjoy this kind of heat, Darrell on the other hand, doesn't

At 7pm, we made a mad dash, avoiding the showers, for dinner at So Samsen. Aom, our hostess from last year, had arrived back from Chiang Mai, and we were delighted to see her. It really is good to reconnect with friends after a year; it feels like we have never been away. If I could come back here year after year I would, but sadly we have other countries to explore, so will make the most of our time here while we can.

We did manage to catch up with our old friend and neighbour from Spain, Katie, who we haven't spoken to since we left Gran Alacant in 2018. This was a long overdue chat and I thoroughly enjoyed speaking with her after so long. As individuals, we should all make more time for one another, and relaxing on holiday is the perfect opportunity for Darrell and I to speak with people, without the need to constantly look at the clock! No one seems to have enough time these days, and that really is part of the problem with society today; talking costs nothing, friendship means everything!

It was heartening to hear Katie and Andy were still doing so well in Spain, having just bought a new house and farm. Had things turned out differently, we would most certainly still be there as well. I still keep up with the expat community on the Costa Blanca, and love to see how people are doing. Katie was such a big part of our life for so long, it feels like talking with family. We will of course be back in the future to see the Stewardson family once again; until then we have precious memories to take with us on our travels.

With day two over, I am looking forward to the remaining few days in Bangkok, being relaxing and chilled. We don't have anything planned, since we saw everything last year, but we will certainly search for new and wonderful experiences to fill our day, enjoying the delights of Bangkok in our own special way! This is a city that rightly deserves a more considered stay, rather than just a night or two as part of a stopover. This is the perfect holiday destination for us, I just hope all of you agree!

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Coming Home - 8 September 2023!

9/9/2023

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It's taken a year, but we are finally back in Thailand; after travelling here last year and falling in love with the place, we made the choice to return, at the earliest opportunity. It has been a tiring twelve months for Darrell and I, so having a few weeks to just chill and relax, after all we have achieved, is welcome. Returning to this wonderful country is yet another opportunity, we wouldn't otherwise have had living in the UK. As I said to Darrell yesterday, this holiday is rather like making our yearly pilgrimage to Benidorm or Ibiza in Europe, and this is done, very much in the same vein.

It has been a long time since we have had time to ourselves. Having worked solidly in my job for the last seven months without a break has at times been exhausting, but it has been a tremendous opportunity to learn and grow, in a position I am beginning to love more and more.

The fact is, you get less holiday in Australia a year than you do in the UK, so when you do take a break, it is all the more precious.

A cold beer, the day before I flew, was the official start of our holiday, and the happy memories yet to come. Both Darrell and I have worked exceptionally hard in our new jobs, so this is a time to dedicate to us and our wellbeing, in the same way we always used to!

The flight to Kuala Lumpur, on the first leg of our journey, was pretty uneventful. We flew overnight from Perth on Malaysian Airlines, not my first airline of choice, I have to say. Memories of the two plane disappearances just under ten years ago, echoing in my head, sent my anxiety spiralling momentarily. Malaysia Airlines have apparently suffered a lot from the downing of these two aircraft in quick succession, and haven't fully recovered from these two tragic events, even today. My reluctance to book with them is partly to do with this, but also my hatred of flying in the first place. Actually, the flight was wonderfully smooth and there were no issues at all - not even any turbulence to speak of. The airline itself is currently in the process of contracting new caterers, so my biggest complaint would be the reduction in quality of the food provided, but otherwise it was fine.

The plane flew overnight from Perth to Kuala Lumpur, leaving at 2.10am, arriving finally at 8.15 in the morning. To be absolutely honest, I will never book this flight again. Today, as I write this blog, I feel totally jet-lagged, even after only two short flights and a subtle time difference of an hour. This is most definitely a flight for the more seasoned traveller, certainly not for me or Darrell.

Both of us have been to Kuala Lumpur several times before, in 1997 and 2001, so it was great to see the airport again after so long. KL International has changed out of all proportion, and it was amazing to see how it has grown during the intervening years. From the small single building we arrived at in 1997, it has now morphed into a huge international hub, full of travellers from all over the World; it really is a sight to behold.

In the centre of this airport, stands a man-made jungle; taking a step through the doors, into the open atrium you are immediately hit by the searing Malaysian heat, at over thirty degrees. Now I haven't felt heat like that in a while and if I am honest, I love it. The central jungle, with waterfall offers an oasis in an otherwise modern metropolis, and it was nice to take a stroll round, while we waited for our next flight to Bangkok, four hours later.

The flight from Kuala Lumpur was an altogether worse experience. We were left sitting on the tarmac for an hour and a half before take off, and it was hot, very hot. There was obviously no air conditioning working and due to a technical error, we had to wait until the plane was clear to fly. By the time we actually left, my blood was boiling. With a lack of sleep, feeling terrible after the overnight flight, I was ready to lose my rag at any moment.

The flight itself was awful, and we had our seat belts on for the majority of the journey. The turbulence on the short two-hour hop between KL and Bangkok was the worst I have ever experienced, making me feel physically sick. Even the landing at the airport, after circling for what seemed like ages, was dreadful. Coming down through heavy cloud was rough; as we hit the landing strip we jolted violently from side to side and many of the passengers on board just sighed with relief. I have never been more grateful to see another city in all my life!

Bangkok is a mad place, full to bursting with thousands of travellers and despite the long queues at the boarder, we both got through security pretty quickly. This is, however, a city I love, and for the first time in a year I felt alive again. Perth, Western Australia is a beautiful place to live, but being the most isolated city in the World, it is rather boring at times. Bangkok is on a completely different level at opposite ends of the spectrum. Given a choice, I know where I would rather be.

After an hour taxi ride, we arrived at our hotel, the Nouvo City in Pranakorn, where we stayed last year. This four-star hotel sits in the middle of gritty pranakorn perfectly, although it does stick out like a sore thumb. This isn't an area for the faint-hearted; you can see many different shades of life here - that is, however, what makes it so special. The nature of the place is engaging, unfamiliar and a little bit off the rails, but that also gives it a charm unsurpassed and Darrell and I love it.

After freshening up, we immediately went straight to our favourite restaurant 'So Samsen' for dinner. The girls immediately recognised us from last year, making us feel welcome and at home, as they always did. The same stray cat was still roaming about, and the food was as delicious as ever. This is what coming home feels like, and we were just happy to be back amongst friends.

After a delicious home cooked meal at So Samsen, and a few well needed beers, we took a leisurely stroll around Pranakorn itself, and it truly is a sight to behold. An eclectic mix of 'diversity and distinctiveness' mingling together, in this melting pot of western and eastern culture, is absolutely fantastic to observe. Even walking around briefly, you are greeted by sounds, smells and sights, you just wouldn't get anywhere else.

There are street vendors selling anything and everything from drugs, laughing gas, deep-fried insects and snakes, dodgy looking bottles of alcohol and what I can only assume to be knock off designer clothes. This is the darker side of the area, which just adds to the colourful nature of the place, and it does make for an interesting encounter.

Darrell and I left early, after not sleeping for nearly two days, sleeping into the early hours of this morning, feeling totally refreshed, after an exhausting few days. We have finally come home and are looking forward to our stay in a place akin to home!

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Counting Down The Days!

2/9/2023

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With just one week to go, I am literally counting down the days until I depart for Thailand. To be honest, the weather here in Australia is getting me down. This is the first winter I have spent in Perth, and it has been bloody horrible; it literally feels like it has been raining for months. Tonight, I have just walked home from work, and I am soaked to the skin. This isn't just a bit of rain, this is a deluge, and it's just gone on and on. I am constantly told it will be over soon, but nevertheless, it just can't come soon enough.

Yesterday was the first day of spring, but it feels like we are still in the depths of winter. I am just grateful, we will be leaving Western Australia for a few weeks on Friday and both of us can finally relax for a bit. I haven't had a break from work since January, so I just need some downtime, where I can sit, reflect, write and reaffirm my travelling credentials. Bangkok and Chiang Mai, will allow me to do what I love best; I can leave the reality of life behind for a short while, and dream my days away, in one of the most glorious places on Earth.

Darrell and I have a huge affection for Thailand, after our trip there last year, and in many ways this will be like reconnecting with an old friend. Last year, staying in Bangkok, gave us the opportunity to finally be a couple again, after several months of turmoil in the UK. After our busy visit to family in Croatia, we were able to just chill and take in the sites and sounds of Bangkok, doing things that were important to us. Sitting outside our favourite restaurant 'So Samsen' in Pranakorn, both of us felt at home and welcomed by the girls who worked there. This little place appeared safe and friendly, after all the anxiety and stress we endured. We both felt privileged to have met such wonderful people on our journey. Of course, we hope to do the same thing all over again, but also travel to Chaing Mai, and experience life in this northern Thailand city. This holiday is about rekindling old footsteps, but it is also about experiencing a different culture and enjoying a way of life, both of us love.

Last week was the busiest week I have had in a long time. Work commitments have taken up a lot of time, especially as I prepare to hand over the reigns to my second in charge while I am away. I am planning for every eventuality, and have been putting in a lot of extra hours, in order to ensure the shop runs like clockwork while I'm away. I am extremely lucky to have a wonderful team, who are quite willing and able to take on more responsibility. Nevertheless, it is difficult going on holiday at such a busy time here in Australia, at the beginning of spring.

With summer just around the corner, the 'burn offs' are in full swing. Preparing for the intense summer temperatures is important, and much of the overgrown undergrowth is burnt off in order to prevent serious wildfires. With Midland being close to the bush and surrounding hills, we are in prime danger territory, so it isn't unusual to smell fires burning at this time of year.

On Thursday, however, when I left for work at 7am, there was thick fog and smoke everywhere I looked. The stench of burning was in the air, my eyes were stinging, swollen and red and I could barely see in front of me. The freak weather conditions, damp atmosphere and burn offs, had caused a thick smog to engulf Perth. As I left the house, the scene that greeted me outside was eerie, unlike anything I had seen before; all part of the course living in Australia, apparently.

Every house should have an emergency evacuation plan and do everything it can to avoid fires spreading in the local area. Luckily for us, we have just replaced an old wooden fence with a new metal one, and much of the greenery that surrounded our house has now been removed. Living here is so different from the UK, it is just a matter of adjusting your mindset, to take account of your changing circumstances. Yes, it is scary at first, but once you understand the dangers of living in a hot climate, rather like we did in Spain, it just starts to come naturally.

Occasionally, there are sunny days at the moment, even though they seem few and far between and with the temperature in the mid-twenties, Darrell and I managed to go into the city for a pint or two last weekend. We popped into our favourite Irish bar and settled down to a great Sunday roast, talking about our trip to Thailand. Darrell, like me, works long hours and despite the good wages, we do need to take time out. We are far more fortunate than most and can afford to go out every weekend, but we do work hard. Since moving to Australia, I have discovered that if you are prepared for hard graft, you will reap the rewards. Wages are two, three times what they are in the UK and even though I do moan about this place at times, I know deep down, how lucky I am; I could never have afforded this lifestyle in the UK, especially after buying a house.

Next time I blog, I will be in Bangkok and aim to write every day, as I did on my last trip to Thailand. Travel writing is what I enjoy most, and I hope to once again give you a taste of Thailand in my usual way. For me, this will be a bit of a busman's holiday, but writing helps me relax in a way nothing else does. Even tonight, after a ten-hour shift, I am sat writing this blog - it doesn't feel like a chore, and it isn't anxiety inducing. Blogging, is the one thing that has kept me sane these last nine years and I hope I will be doing it for many more years to come. With my notepad and pen poised, I hope to hear from you all in Bangkok... Until then, Chao for now!

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From a new life in spain, to an old life in britain, 'roaming brit' documents uncertain times!

One Year in Australia!

Chiang Rai Province and The Golden Triangle - 14 September 2023!

The Temples of Chiang Mai - 13 September 2023!

8 Years Married, 28 Years Together - Happy Anniversary!

Onwards to Chiang Mai - 12 September 2023!

Wat Pakham Phasi Chareon and Farewell to Bangkok - 11 September 2023!

Bangkok - An urban paradise - 10 September 2023!

Wat Pho - A breathtaking experience - 9 September 2023!

Coming Home - 8 September 2023!

Counting Down The Days!

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