Category: Vietnam 2024

Weekly Catchup!

29/4/2024

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Clayborne's World — Vietnam 2024!

24/4/2024

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Click above to donate to Cancer Research UK

Since 2019, Clayborne The Cancer Research Teddy, has accompanied me on my travels all over the World. Even during COVID, while I was unable to travel, Clayborne boarded a repatriation flight to America — even getting to sit in the cockpit (Something I have never done.) As he clocks up the miles, he is also creating awareness for Cancer Research UK, a charity I am proud to have volunteered for.

Today I live in Australia, but my dedication to Cancer Research UK remains as strong as ever. I still make a monthly donation to them, and believe passionately in the good work they do, helping to irradiate this dreadful disease.

Clayborne, is a brand ambassador like no other; today, after five years of travelling, he is looking rather dishevelled and in need of a bit of TLC. His head is a bit wonky and his fur requires a good brush, but the scars he carries with him, are a mark of the cause he champions. I feel proud that he has helped create recognition and understanding of the complexities surrounding cancer, encouraging more people to donate to Cancer Research and helping to stop this disease in its tracks.

Clayborne travelled with Darrell and me to Saigon, Da Nang and Hội An, traversing the south of Vietnam for 12 days. Like me, he is a seasoned traveller and enjoys experiencing new cultures. Many people have stopped and asked me about his story, bringing, yet more, understanding of a subject, that many find difficult to discuss.

His travels document a journey, that began with me volunteering for Cancer Research in 2018, and the fond memories I take with me on my voyage to Australia. Clayborne has become an important part of my life; he is not only a symbol of past endeavours, but also a shining light of hope for the future. As I continue to travel across the World, His story, is my story, and together we will help to make Cancer history!

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Day 10/11 — Think Before You Trust Online Reviews!

16/4/2024

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Leaving Da Nang was the start of our long journey back to Australia. I always hate goodbyes, it just reinforces the normality to come. I would love to be an eternal traveller, but that's not going to happen, so as long as I can take a couple of holiday's a year, I am happy. With Taiwan on the agenda in seven months time, I am content to settle down and do some hard graft.

The short flight from Da Nang was once again pretty turbulent. All I can put it down to, is the smaller plane. Obviously, the smaller the aircraft, the more you feel the rocking motion. Thankfully, it only took an hour, and we were on the ground before we knew it.

I had arranged a 'complimentary' pick up at the terminal, in Ho Chi Minh City, after our flight from Da Nang, to take us to our last hotel of the trip. This was called, aptly enough, 'The Airport Hotel.' I had literally typed in 'Airport Hotel Saigon,' in my Expedia app, and this place came up first, as one would expect.

After twenty minutes waiting at the meeting point, I phoned the hotel, to find out where our transfer was — this should have been a warning of things to come. I already had a feeling this last stay wasn't going to end well. The gentleman on the end of the phone, said the car was on the way, and to just hold tight. Sure enough, after forty minutes, the car arrived, and we were off to the hotel.

It took about five minutes to get to our hotel, and when I got to the desk to check in, I was astonished to be charged 240,000 VND or $15.00 AUD for the so called 'complimentary' ride. Needless to say I wasn't happy, but I was at the end of my trip, and just wanted to leave on a high point, so once again just let it flow over me.

We were shown to room 605 and left to settle in. To be honest, the room looked dated and tired and smelt a bit musty. I walked over to the window and opened the curtains. To my horror there was a door wide open, that went directly onto one of those old rickety metal fire escapes, like the ones you find at the side of New York skyscrapers. Now I had a lot of important stuff in my case and wanted it closed.

Well we tried and tried, but the door wouldn't even shut, let alone lock, and after half an hour I was fuming. Angry, I stormed down to the desk and demanded something was done. A young lad came back up to our room with me, but could not do anything himself, and arranged for us to be moved to room 305. We grabbed our stuff and made our way down in the lift to the third floor.

This time I checked the fire escape door, and it was bolted tight. However, once the member of staff left, I realised there was no lock in the door, so in the event of a fire we would be either dead, or severely injured from jumping from a third floor window. At that point, I just thought, what the hell — I had given up caring.

The room was filthy, dusty, and poorly maintained. There was water leaking though a pipe in the bathroom, and the bathroom door had a rather large crack above it. It wasn't until I tried to close the door, that I realised why — obviously someone had tried to close the door in the past without success, and plaster was falling off from around the frame. Now, usually this wouldn't bother me, but I had discovered there was no bathroom light switch. The only way you could block the light out at night was to either close the door, which was impossible, or remove the room's key card from the slot. In the end, there was no choice, we both needed sleep, without the bathroom light illuminating the bedroom!

By removing the card, we had no electricity to the room, so I couldn't charge my mobile devices and most importantly, we had no aircon all night in 38 degree heat. This was the worst nights sleep I have had on holiday, yet the bed itself was perfectly acceptable. By 9pm, after a bite to eat out, we were both exhausted, so aircon or not we just had to sleep, even if it was only for a short time.

I was awake early, even earlier than usual, despite our flight not leaving until 4pm. There was so much commotion in the hall outside our room last night, that it was particularly difficult to sleep. I had already made the decision to have breakfast and leave for the airport straight away, even though it would mean waiting in the terminal all day; it was preferable to remaining in this terrible hotel.

At 6.30 we went downstairs to eat; the buffet was equally bad! As I started to put food on my plate, this tiny restaurant, with no more than four tables, was descended upon by twenty plus people. I managed to get a few cold McDonald's fries and overcooked sausage and left more or less straight away. The food on offer was the worst of the holiday so far, and I was, and still am, livid. Darrell followed me upstairs shortly afterwards and within the hour we had arrived at the airport, glad to be out of that awful place. This is a reminder for readers to take reviews of hotels and attractions with a pinch of salt. The comments on The Airport Hotel were not entirely accurate. If I had been able to make a more informed decision, I wouldn't have booked this place, but misleading reviews can change a person's decision.

Personally, I don't think I have ever stayed in a worse hotel! Maybe the first one Darrell and I stayed in, back in 1995, but that was thirty years ago. The memories I have of that stay — 1970s pastiche, with patterned axminster, avocado shower in the bedroom and candlewick bedspread are good, happy and positive ones. The Airport Hotel in Ho Chi Minh City is in a terrible state of disrepair and needs completely gutting. However, the staff, did their best, and were very accommodating throughout our short stay.

It felt like we had spent five days in terminal 1, at Ho Chi Minh Airport. From Burger King, Highland Coffee, and the massage chairs, we know the airport inside out, intimately and even fondly. The airport itself isn't great and has very few facilities on offer, but this was a home from home for a large part of the day. Considering Saigon is the biggest city in Vietnam, one would have thought better to be honest; even Da Nang International Airport was bigger.

With thousands of people going through Ho Chi Minh daily, there were huge queues at security. The prices were astronomical and food and drink pretty poor, but this is an airport, so what else do you expect.

I don't think I was happier to get on a plane in all my life, even though there was an hour delay before take off, as there has been on every other flight we have taken in Vietnam. The flight itself was fine, as much as economy class ones can be. I did have to sit though the entire six-hour flight without any entertainment, however, with no sound coming from the TV screen. As someone who just can not sit through a film anyway, it really doesn't bother me that much, and I even fell asleep briefly, which is very unlike me.

Arriving in Australia was the usual palaver of checks and more checks. As a permanent resident, I am always held up for at least an hour as I explain my status to the Border Force. After they do their customary checks, we usually have a chat, they pat me on the back and send me on my way. Just part of the course, when I return home now — and the reason for this — well, just a silly minor issue when I was a wee lad, that will remain on official documents until the day I die!

This was a holiday like no other for us, but I suppose I was glad to come home. The last hotel had left a bitter taste in my mouth, but it was more than that. Vietnam is a wonderful country, whose biggest asset is its people, but for me at least, Thailand offers me more of what I need in a holiday destination. As a tourist I want culture, history, and monuments. Vietnam's more recent history tends to take precedence and as much as I understand the terrible circumstances of the Vietnam War, I am not keen on reliving those experiences for the duration of my vacation.

Of course there are many other aspects to this amazing country and Hội An is a perfect example of that, but the sheer number of tourists in these amazing destinations, does detract from the history. I didn't feel a connection to Hội An's ancient culture, surrounded by hoards of mobile phones and social media influencers. This was however an incredible opportunity to explore a country where Communism and Capitalism sit happily side by side; that was an experience I will always treasure! Vietnam is a place everyone should visit in their lifetime; I'm just not sure if I want to go there again!

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Day 9 — Final Day in Hội An!

13/4/2024

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I suppose there really isn't much to say today, as we come to our final day in Hội An. We travelled to the Silk Beach Club, on the coast, for what was supposed to have been a day by the beach. Now, this isn't my idea of fun, if I am honest. I can't think of anything worse, than sitting by a beach, doing nothing. I am a person who needs to be doing something; I need to keep active, and a beach holiday would just not cut it with me.

The hotel had arranged a shuttle bus to take us to the beach club, about twenty minutes away. Darrell was looking forward to it, as one would expect, I just wasn't. When we arrived, the club looked pretty reasonable from the outside, but as we entered the building, it wasn't the most relaxing place in the World.

Now it is Saturday, and there were probably about 200 children running about, screaming, and it did feel like being back at school. I really don't mean to be harsh here, because the kids in Vietnam are truly amazing, and very polite and courteous; their antics were just not what I expected, and turned a relaxing day, into nothing but. Having said that, lots of them came up to me, to say high and chat. This seems to be a common theme in Vietnam, the children really want to get to know you and have a conversation. This will be one of the enduring memories of Southern Vietnam, the fantastic, welcoming youngsters, whose curiosity and enthusiasm is infectious.

We had lunch at the resort — just a Bahn Mi, and a pint of beer. Interesting fact — the beer arrives warm at your table, followed by a glass of ice. You are supposed to add beer to the ice! That isn't something I am used to, and it certainly isn't the way to drink beer. However, it was hot and at least it quenched my thirst.

While sat there eating, several children came up to our table, asking to have their photo taken with me, and I duly obliged. Darrell reckons it was because I was wearing the Vietnamese flag on my shirt. I'm not sure these kids would have seen many westerners wearing communist attire, but they seemed to appreciate it, and were very happy to see us at this predominantly Vietnamese club.

We were due to leave the club at 3.30pm, but with the place overrun with school children, we decided to leave early and got a taxi back to the hotel at 1pm. At a cost of 110.000 VND, or $6.00 AUD, it was well worth it. Even though I know how much Darrell loves the beach, I had a feeling he was ready to make a quick exit as well, and it was good to get back to an air-conditioned hotel.

From the Silkotel, we went out straight away, back into the old town, where we had lunch at what became our favourite place to eat — The Spice Route and Poison Café. Once again, the food was delicious, as it always has been here. At a relatively early 2pm, there also wasn't anyone else in the restaurant, so we had the room and air conditioner to ourselves, which is always a bonus.

After lunch, we made did some last minute shopping and made our way back to the hotel, nearly at the end of our stay in Hội An. I suppose this would be the perfect opportunity to sum up our time in this country, and It is important for me to be as honest as I can.

When I arrived in Vietnam, I really didn't know what to expect. I have been to this country briefly, back in 2019 and enjoyed the few days I spent in Hanoi. This trip has been rather different. In 2019, Vietnam was part of a four country tour, this time, we spent ten days travelling through the south of the country and in truth, I have mixed feeling about the place.

I have enjoyed my time in the main, but the heat has been absolutely stifling, for Darrell at least. I have been fine in the main, loving the hot humid weather, but my other half has found it quite difficult. We probably stayed in Ho Chi Minh City too long and could have done it in half the time. Two days is more than enough to see Vietnam's biggest city, and I know Darrell would have preferred that we spent more time in Da Nang.

Personally, I loved Ho Chi or Saigon. I loved the café culture there, and did plenty of walking; I could even see myself living there. The biggest problem is getting about. There is very little reliable public transport, and the metro system that was due to open several years ago is still under construction, which really is an inconvenience for the traveller. The pace of life above ground is particularly fast as a result; roads are clogged with traffic for most of the day, and pollution levels are off the scale. I read that Saigon has 9 million residents and there are a staggering 8.5 million mopeds, which gives you some idea of the traffic concerns in this vast city.

However, there was no hassle or street vendor trying to sell you something, you are very much left to your own devices and take in the city at your own pace. Compared to Hội An where we are now, it couldn't be more different. I found Saigon relaxing and a joy to walk around, and would go back there in a heartbeat.

Da Nang, the Benidorm of Vietnam, was an equally pleasant surprise. Darrell and I agree, we would have liked to have spent more time there. Like Saigon, there was nobody invading your personal space, and you could enjoy the city at your leisure. In reality, we should have based ourselves there for the duration of our stay in this region and travelled to Hội An for a single day.

Hội An is beautiful, the architecture is out of this World. This historic city was always going to be the highlight of this trip, but sadly this visitor hotspot was absolutely overcrowded with tourists, all jostling to get to the front of a queue or see the latest sunset. I actually can't believe how rude some people are. I have come to the conclusion, us Brits are just too polite.

The food, culture, and history of Hội An, are indeed valid reasons to visit this place, but of course, beware, you will be conned out of your hard-earned cash. The touts here are determined to get your dollar, even when you are sat in a restaurant; fixated, they will come up to you, even while you are eating, trying to get you to buy something. The only establishment where this didn't happen, was at The Spice Route. The restaurant comes highly recommended; the food and service is first class — it is an oasis from the sheer madness outside. If you are in Hội An, go there, you won't be disappointed.

Overall, I feel happy I went to Vietnam; however, it won't be a country I return to again. Vietnamese people are unbelievably friendly and accommodating. Every hotel we stayed in was top-notch, but our final stop in Hội An, although memorable and beautiful, was just too busy at this time of year. The highlight of our trip was actually its Achilles heel; So many people visit this city now, that it is ruining the experience for people like me. Vietnam has much to offer, but it does have a long way to go before, tourists can be confident of an enjoyable stay. It must put controls in place, in order to protect the heritage it has, and keep these historic monuments in the best condition possible, for everyone to enjoy.

I certainly don't want to put people off from visiting Vietnam, that isn't my intention, but rather, I would ask you to think twice before visiting tourist hotspots at peak times. I will have some enduring memories to take with me when I leave, but there is some sadness, that it wasn't quite what I expected!

Tomorrow we fly to Saigon and our final hotel!

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Day 8 — Hội An, keep yours wits about you, and your money firmly in your pocket!

12/4/2024

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Darrell and I were up very early again this morning and started the day with a hearty breakfast buffet at the Silkotel in Hội An. The food on offer was mountainous, and it is the first time I have seen bacon, baked beans and sausage on offer, during our stay in Vietnam. Yes, I know I'm on holiday abroad, but I do love an English breakfast in the morning while travelling.

Now, it is true to say that I have piled on the weight since arriving in Vietnam, but I am on holiday, and I am surrounded by wonderful food, so I really don't care. It could be the stunning breakfasts, at every hotel, or maybe, just maybe, it's the beer I'm drinking with every meal, that is responsible for my ever-increasing waistline. Whatever the reason, it's just a fact of life, for a food lover like me.

You do need a good breakfast before you start the day when travelling, mind you, and the hope was, I would just work it off, but that just hasn't happened. When you are staying in a resort, as we are, walking just doesn't feature in our itinerary. I will deal with the after effects of this trip when I get home, for now I will just carry on enjoying myself!

We left to walk the short distance to Hội An old town at about 7.30am, the perfect time to see this ancient city. Last night was so horrendous and packed with people, it was important to see this place in the cold (rather hot) light of day, when no one was about, and I'm so glad I did.

For the first hour we strolled, or as Darrell said Waddled, (in reference to our overeating) around the city streets; We were unhindered and not harassed one bit, it was joyous. We could take photographs at our leisure and admire the sheer beauty of this place. If you are coming to Hội An and want to see it, without the hoards of tourists, then go early, and take in the sites and sounds of this ancient city without the stress you would otherwise endure. Believe me, it is stressful dodging people, vendors, and con artists — you really do need your wits about you and your hands firmly in your pocket.

By ten in the morning, we had walked most of the old town, so stopped off for refreshment at Thon Da Am, close to the river. This small café is relaxed and chilled, with large, comfy seating throughout. Like most places in Hội An, there was no air-conditioning, but there were plenty of fans throughout. Apart from the annoying touts trying to sell us something, it was a rather enjoyable experience.

From observing the touts at work, they do appear to be in cahoots with the café owners, who let this practice go on unchallenged. My advice, if it dampens your enjoyment too much, move on to another establishment, who discourages such behaviour; vote with your feet!

While Darrell was shopping for yet more hats, I literally bumped into a fruit seller outside in the street, who plonked her wears on my shoulder. Now, normally I would object and quickly move on. However, she had caught me well and truly unaware, and I couldn't get out of it. I handed her my phone and she snapped a photo or two. The cradle was bloody heavy to be honest, how she carries it around, I just don't know; she is certainly made of sterner stuff than I.

At the end of this horrifying experience, she proceeded to con me out of 500,000 VND, about $30.00 AUD, for fruit I didn't even want. Look, it was baking outside, and I was hot and bothered, so just wanted her gone, and the yoke off my shoulder. Sadly, this is an all too common occurrence in Hội An, and you are going to get conned at one stage or another, so just live with it and move on. I have learnt another lesson and will not be talking with strangers again — just as my Mother always taught me!

After a few hours shopping, we stopped off for lunch at 'Vy's, The Spice Route and Poison Café.' This appears to be a venue with different establishments inside. We went to the restaurant on the upper floor, with spectacular views over the river. Once again there was no air-conditioning inside, but it didn't really matter. They had portable units dotted about, which did just take the edge off the heat, while you eat; most importantly, not a tout or con artist in sight.

I had the slow cooked Vietnamese chicken with ginger, presented in a clay pot, and Darrell had spicy beef noodles. The food and service was just wonderful, the best we have had in Hội An. It was extremely filling, which was perfect after walking around for five hours — I would highly recommend this place; I can't fault a thing.

We are now back at the hotel, Darrell is swimming, and I'm blogging, keeping one on my laptop and the other on the wall in front of me. The lizard is back! He seems to take a route from the top of the balcony doors, along the ceiling and into the aircon unit. I would imagine, this is more his home that mine, or any other guest, so I'm going to leave him to it, and not mention it to reception. If he deviates from his path however, things may well change for the worse!

This evening, we are back in the old town, just to soak up the atmosphere. It certainly is a mad place to be, but it has definitely been the highlight of my stay in Vietnam!

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Day 7 — The Magic and Madness of Hội An!

11/4/2024

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It felt amazing to actually have a good nights sleep for a change last night. This really hasn't been a holiday for resting if I am honest. My body has become so used to getting up early in the UK, it just continues very much in the same vein here.

While Darrell went to the beach, I spent a relaxing few hours in front of the TV, watching 'Bake Off' of all things and catching up with some writing. After watching 'Bake Off' for two hours, I was in the mood for cake and there was only one place to go, The Bread and Butter Café,

There were a few hours left before our departure to Hội An, so when Darrell got back, we finished packing our cases and popped outside. We walked the short distance to what is probably the best café in Da Nang. We were here last night, buying their famous; Cake in a Box, and here we were today, buying exactly the same thing, that's how good it was — it is absolutely delicious. If you are ever in Da Nang, pay a visit to the Bread and Butter Café, you won't regret it!

We took a taxi from The Alani Hotel to Hội An. The lady at the desk kindly arranged it for us. Let me just say how wonderful the staff are at this friendly hotel, nothing was too much for them, and they looked after us remarkably well. I would stay there again in a heart beat.

The taxi took 45 minutes to get to Hội An, and nothing can really prepare you for the spectacular site, of this truly beautiful ancient town. Driving along the streets, you don't even realise what the beating heart of this destination is like. When we pulled up to The Silkotel, our residence for the next three nights, we just had no idea how close the centre of Hội An was.

We had an interesting chat with one of the reps, who explained the layout of the hotel and its numerous facilities, and then she showed us how to get into Hội An. It was literally just around the corner. The location of the Silkotel is just perfect, central to everything and at a very reasonable price; once again it comes highly recommended.

It was 12.30 and with check in at 2pm, as it is everywhere in Vietnam, we made our way outside to explore. As we both walked through the gates to this amazing place, I was actually awe struck. I had no idea, just how fantastic, historic and extraordinary Hội An was — it was out of this World, from a different place in time, and I instantly fell in love.

As I walked around the streets, mouth open wide, there were souvenir shops, objet d'art, pictures, restaurants, local handicrafts, temples and ancient ruins — you name it, it was there in abundance, and I just couldn't get enough of it. This was what I had been waiting for, this was my dream destination, on a par with the best that Thailand has to offer and strangely, a reminder of our time spent in Sorrento, southern Italy.

Of course, looks can be deceiving, and if I had a criticism, it is the amount of souvenir shops and tourists everywhere you look. It is impossible walking any distance without someone trying to sell you something. This is in complete contrast to Saigon and Da Nang, where you are left relatively to your own devices. This is a problem for unsuspecting tourists the World over, but it is especially true of developing countries. Everyone is trying to make money somehow, and I can't blame them, but it does become rather tiresome saying no to everyone who harasses you — it is an absolute must though; if you give an inch, if they think they are breaking you down, you will not get rid of them. Politely but firmly refuse, and send them on their way.

We sat down in a local restaurant at the side of the river and had a quick bite to eat. It was pleasant enough but a little expensive, which I expected if I am honest. Darrell had a few cocktails and I had a few beers. Immediately, people swarmed around our table trying to sell us cheap tat, as Darrell would call it!. This ruined what should have been a relaxing hour. However, after saying NO, we weren't particularly hassled again. The food was also rather mediocre, so I would suggest walking further into the town and find somewhere a little more shaded, and quiet, with better quality food.

Walking around Hội An was in the main a joy. There were plenty of mopeds to avoid and even more tourists, but when you travel to a hotspot such as this, it's what you expect. There was a wonderful Buddhist temple, that we briefly had a look around, and immediately I was transported back to Thailand. This is the reason I go on holiday, to experience different cultures; I don't like sitting around doing nothing, I always have to be active, visiting one attraction or another.

Hội An does offer something for everyone, and there is so much to do and see here that I really don't think I could get board. In many respects my senses were overloaded; so far Vietnam has been more retrained and communistic in feel, Hội An has certainly changed all that.

Well, this evening really didn't go to plan — Not only have I just got blood all over the bed, but there is also a bloody amphibian hiding behind the television. As I was laying in bed, a rather large lizard ran across the wall, and now we literally can't find the thing. Not that we'd know what to do with it, if we did. Still, if it crawls on me tonight, you just watch me scream the place down.

Earlier this evening, after a relaxing bath, we went into Hội An to see the lanterns in the river. Boats row up and down the waterway with tourists onboard, and visitors are encouraged to light candles and float them across the water, for a price of course! Now I have heard about this nightly ritual before, and it did look rather spectacular in books. However, I was unaware of just how many tourists would be out and about — there were actually thousands of them. In every direction there was someone invading your personal space; you were crammed, shoulder to shoulder, along the river banks on either side.

We had planned to have dinner in the old town, but with so many people there, it was an impossible task. After a quick wander around the night market, we left. Both Darrell and I preferred being there during the day; it may well have been warmer, but with fewer people about, it certainly felt more relaxed. It was such a shame we had to leave earlier, but nether of us could stomach the hoards of onlookers. I guess we may well be showing our age. I am less tolerant of everyone and there are not enough hours in the day to spend with people I don't know, pushing and shoving their way around, without a thought for anyone else.

Instead of eating out, we made our way back to the hotel and had something to eat there. Now we know just how busy Hội An is at night, it may, be somewhere to avoid and just go there during the day, hot or not. That's fine by me, since I'm happy in the heat anyway — I'm not sure Darrell will agree. Tomorrow is another day, however, and I'm hoping we have learnt our lesson and will do things a little different tomorrow. Today, we just need to put down to experience… Things can only get better!

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Day 6 — A Day of Relaxation!

10/4/2024

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Today has been a quiet one, and much needed at that. Since arriving in Vietnam, six days ago, I have had a bit of a chest infection. I am assuming I caught something on the plane coming over from Perth, and two days in to our holiday, I had a raging sore throat. The sore throat has gone now, but I have been left with congestion and slight pain in my chest, which appears to be a low grade infection. It hasn't caused me too many problems during this trip, but drinking every day, hasn't particularly helped. I have also been without my usual vitamins that I take at home, which has clearly been an issue, especially fighting the symptoms.

Darrell went to the beach early this morning, so I went for an hour walk around Da Nang. This isn't the best looking Vietnamese city in the World, but it certainly has the feel of a beach resort. As I walked along the promenade in front of the white sandy beach, I could hear loud music playing out from the bars along the way. Whether this is from last night or the beginning of another fun filled day, for younger ravers, I have no idea.

After meeting Darrell on my way back, we did a bit of souvenir shopping, buying for people back home and had a leisurely cup of tea and coffee in one of the many coffee houses here. I had a rather refreshing Lemongrass, Lime and Kumquat concoction, which tasted pretty good if I am honest. Not a good on English Breakfast Tea, which, although advertised on the menu, in reality, isn't something they actually do. I think it's a trap to wind unsuspecting English bloggers in. Still, when I find some proper tea, I will certainly let you know!

To end our time in Da Nang, we went all out to have a feast fit for a Queen. We took a leisurely saunter down to the Walking Street in Da Nang, where we had traditional Vietnamese food at Bếp Bà Ba - Ẩm Thực Quê Nhà. Darrell chose a noodle dish and I went for Vietnamese Pho, which I haven't had since I arrived. Essentially, this is a beef noodle soup, and you add a variety of ingredients to the dish to suit your own pallet.

Now because I am suffering from a chest infection, I added chilli to the dish, in fact I added a shed load of the stuff and a bit of chilli sauce as well, and it blew my head off. Having said that, it was superb, the best food I have had since I came to Vietnam. The whole feast, cost a very reasonable 427,000 VND, which is about $25.00 or twelve pounds fifty pence. That was astonishing to me. When Darrell and I eat out in Australia, we often pay $160.00 for the privilege and the food isn't anywhere as good.

From good Asian cuisine, we walked to the B&B Bakery and had the most delicious chocolate cake, that I think I have ever tasted. The Bread and Butter Café is gloriously French in feel, just like much of Vietnam. The striking contrast between oriental and European food is stark, but oddly enough, they do sit nicely together, side by side. Being able to have some French pâtisserie after a bowl of Pho is just joyous for me.

Tomorrow we head to Hội An and the highlight of the trip for me. Da Nang is certainly an acquired taste, and although I love it as a Benidormesque place to visit, it wouldn't be top of my list of places to revisit. The enduring memory of this place will be meeting Chris and talking about old times, and that would be reason enough to return, if I was back in this neck of the woods. Until then, it's goodbye Da Nang and hello Hội An!

Goodnight from Da Nang!

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Day 5 — Arrival in Da Nang!

9/4/2024

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It was another glorious day in Vietnam today, and the view from our home for the next few days is as wonderful as the last. We are staying at the Alani Hotel, in Da Nang, before travelling to Hoi An for the remainder of our holiday. I booked a suite on the tenth floor of this charming building, and I wasn't disappointed with the vista across the sea. It is important for me to have some inspiration when typing, so the view is important. When Darrell goes off to the pool or beach, I can sit quietly for an hour or two and write today's entry.

The flight itself from Saigon took a little over an hour and was relatively uneventful. We were sitting with our seat belts fastened for most of the journey, since there was a lot of turbulence, however, which always turns my stomach. You know what I'm like, gripping hold of the seat, for dear life, for the majority of the time we are in the sky. Despite this, as ever, we arrived in one piece, and went straight through arrivals and outside within just a few minutes.

Da Nang does feel different to Saigon; it is quieter for a start, and there are fewer mopeds on the road, which was a blessing. This part of our journey around southern Vietnam, is about relaxing, and so far it feels a lot more chilled. Having said that, I have to say, I haven't been sleeping particularly well on this holiday, mainly because of the early starts each day. We do tend to fill up at breakfast, then just eat an evening meal. This really doesn't account for the weight I have put on — I think I can safely put that down to copious amounts of alcohol. For that reason I'm not too concerned about the weight gain, it should just drop off when I arrive back home, well in theory at least.

We had a wander around Da Nang when we arrived, before we checked in, having lunch in a distinctly French café; that French influence is literally everywhere. After freshening up, we had a drink on the rooftop bar, at the Alani Hotel. The bar and infinity pool, does have rather delicious views over the bay where we are situated.

Walking along the promenade, just a street in front of The Alani, I was struck by the almost European feel Da Nang has. This seems to be the same, wherever I have gone in Vietnam; the old colonial influence is everywhere you look, around every corner and up every street. This makes Vietnam very different to any other Asian country I have been to. I can't decide whether I like it or not; Vietnam nevertheless does have a unique charm all of its own.

Darrell and I do tend to use our time away, to talk to people back in the UK. This genuinely is the only time we actually have anytime to do so. Our lives in Perth are so God damn busy, that we rarely have time to sit still. As soon as I get home from work, I am falling asleep — maybe that is just typical for an old man, I just don't know?

I managed to catch a quick conversation with our friend Elaine, back in Southampton, who was pleased to hear from us, and equally it was good to hear a friendly voice. Elaine is one of those rare people who has remained a friend for many years. When we moved to Australia, she became more important, as a connection to the past, that played such a significant role in mine and Darrell's time, living in the UK. We will certainly be catching up with other familiar faces while we are here!

In the evening, Darrell and I made our way into Da Nang centre for a bite to eat. Once again, like Saigon, this place comes alive after dark and the streets have a very different vibe to them. Being situated on the coast, it is so much cooler here as well. The sun doesn't bother me too much, but for Darrell, who really hates the heat these days, it was perfect.

After dinner, I had arranged to meet an old patron and friend from my days working at The Newcome pub. Chris was a familiar face when I worked behind the bar and I have followed his exploits, as he travelled around Vietnam, with interest. When he knew I was coming to Da Nang, he suggested we meet up at the Shamrock bar, and I was particularly excited to see him.

Chris is now married to a Vietnamese lady and doesn't live too far from the centre of Da Nang. He seems so happy living in this part of the World, and who can blame him. For Darrell and I, Asia is a place we love and could quite easily live in when we retire — given the right circumstances, of course. Chris made that dream seem as real as ever, as he encouraged us to do what we thought was right.

Working at The Newcome was a really special time for me and meeting great people like Chris, left me with some good memories to take with me to the other side of the World. Despite the difficulties surrounding our departure, it is people who make us who we are; surrounding ourselves with positive, trusted individuals is part of a process, that allows us the ability to move forwards with our endeavours, wherever we are. Memories will always remain the most important aspect of my life, and I am grateful for those who are a part of it, especially today.

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Day 4 - War Remnants Museum (Reluctantly)

8/4/2024

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Well I'm back from a trip on the 'Hop on, hop off' bus, and I can safely say, today has been the hottest thus far. Despite this, it has also been the least busy. There is absolutely no way I could have done anything too strenuous; this holiday has really been more about relaxing and taking it easy and not overdoing it.

Recently, I have had a few health issues to deal with, that have left me a little exhausted, so this trip is about recuperating and preparing for the future. As I have gotten older, I have become more aware of my own mortality, as such I am trying to fit in as much as I can; that is important to me, especially now. Don't get too concerned, I'm certainly not going to drop dead tomorrow, but there are issues I have to have investigated further, and being the health anxiety mess I am, I am a little concerned.

This holiday to Vietnam is about unwinding and recharging my batteries, after seven months of solid working. It has been a hard four weeks for me, especially because I am changing jobs when I return from Vietnam. I am, however, determined to carry on as normal, and put any difficulties behind me, while I channel all my energy into moving forwards in life. Included in that, is my continued desire to travel; this trip to Vietnam has given me the opportunity to relax in a way I haven't for a long time.

I was, and still am, determined to use my time here positively; as I mentioned yesterday, I don't intend to revisit the Vietnam War too much, because that tends to leave me quite down and depressed. Nevertheless, today, Darrell and I had to visit the 'War Remnants Museum' here in Saigon. This isn't something I wanted to do, but after buying two tickets on the sightseeing bus, I discovered this excursion was included in the price of the ticket. In many ways, it made me just a little angry, but because it was so bloody God damn hot outside, Darrell and I decided to go into this museum anyway.

Darrell went around all the exhibits with a sense of determination, discovering much about the Vietnam War, that he wouldn't have otherwise know. I, stubbornly, took a step back, and didn't see too much by choice; it just wasn't something I wanted to partake in. However, at the end of our visit, we met a Vietnamese gentleman outside, who had no hands and forearms. He had them blown off in a landmine incident when he was eight years old. He wanted Darrell and I to shake his arms as if his hands were still there, and of course we bought several books from him about the war.

These will not be books I read, but will remain in the plastic covers they were given to me in, as a reminder of the pain this gentleman, now approaching old age, went through. The Vietnam War was truly horrifying, and I have learnt so much about its consequences on the population here. It has made them the people they are and given each one of them a deep sense of purpose. I do feel humbled in their presence, because, unlike them, I have never had to endure such hardship. Without their stories, I really wouldn't understand the ramifications of the conflict on families, and the enduring, lasting effects it continues to have on generations of Vietnamese.

I have realised today, that you can't just block out the past, because you don't like it. You have to deal with it, and the ramifications of people's actions, that affected ordinary lives. The trauma caused by the Vietnam War, will live on forever, as families continue to mourn their loved ones and come to terms with the pain of loss. I may well want this holiday to be about happiness, rainbows and unicorns, but I am also well aware of Vietnamese history, and in my own way, commemorate all those who died, because of man's inhumanity to man.

Sitting in the Craft Beer Café, drinking a large pint Jasmine tonic, I was left rather empty from today's experience. It was indeed humbling to meet someone who had been so affected by the Vietnam War, but it was also quite thought-provoking, as I wrestled with my own feelings about the destruction that was caused in Vietnam.

Despite everything that has happened to this country, the people are open and welcoming and forgiven the west for the pain they caused to this resilient nation. I am so appalled by the way people were treated here, that it disgusts and angers me, every time I think about it. This communist country as evolved into a tolerant and accepting nation, and it speaks volumes about who these remarkable people are.

I'm sure I will be back here before long, and I will never forget the time I have spent travelling this great country, especially Ho Chi Minh City. Tomorrow we leave for Da Nang, a World away from the Vietnam War, but after today, I will still carry a piece of it in my heart, remembering all those who gave their lives in pursuit of freedom. God rest your souls, all of you!

We ended the day with the best Italian food since I visited Rome and Napoli, and the service was exceptional! @ Italiani's Pizza 2 in Ho Chi Minh City — Absolutely delicious!

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Day 3 — The Independence Palace, Saigon!

7/4/2024

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The Independence Palace

Today was the hottest day in Vietnam so far, approaching 40 degrees. Now I am well-used to these temperatures, living in Australia, but what I am not used to, is the high humidity levels. These are commonplace in Asia and must have been well over 80% at the height of the day. Still, we had a pre-planned appointment at The Independence Palace, about fifteen minutes walk from where we are staying, delving into Vietnam's recent past.

This was one monument I was looking forward to seeing; I am a Brutalism enthusiast and find this style of architecture a joy. The Independence Palace is breathtaking in every respect; despite its modern appearance, I was overwhelmed by the size and configuration of this building. Entering the Palace is an awe-inspiring experience!

There are many staterooms, that are set for various functions and meetings and all of them are surprisingly sumptuous in design. Everyone of the individually decorated spaces are in keeping with this large, open, airy, modern piece of Vietnamese architecture. Walking around this place, with the hundreds of tourists from all over the World on a Sunday morning, you are kept relatively cool, away from the hot temperature outside. I was certainly impressed by just how fresh this building was inside, despite having little to no air-conditioning. The Independence Palace was specifically designed to keep the occupants comfortable, even on the hottest of days.

As you walk around the grounds of the Palace, you are reminded of the Vietnam War, which is a huge part of Vietnam's history. There are examples of military hardware wherever you look — helicopters, tanks, and planes. This was an important addition to our time in Saigon, but it is the only time Darrell and I will spend thinking about that terrible war. That may seem a little uncaring for some, but we both made a conscious decision to avoid such locations as The War Remnants Museum and Chi Chi Tunnels.

Having travelled to Vietnam in the past, I visited many of the places that document the Vietnam War. These are not places to take lightly. They left me with a very heavy heart and a deep sense of foreboding that took many months to overcome. I still have those significant, horrifying memories, but I do not dwell on them, as much as I used to.

This holiday to Vietnam, is about seeing the other side of this country, just as influential as its war history, commemorated every day. During my ten days here, I want to experience the positivity, that the Vietnamese are famous for and put the war to one side. As a young Vietnamese lad told me, there is more to this country than death — we also need to celebrate life! How true; Never forget the past that made you who you are, the resilience of those who live in this beautiful country is legendary, and it's the future of younger generations that is important; their vibrancy is infectious and that is reason enough to visit this wonderful land!

Conversational English with Sushi at The Phương Nam Book Café

From The Independence Palace, we walked back to the hotel, stopping for a coffee in Book Street. This seems to be my go-to place, the area where I feel most at home, surrounded by books and the many nationalities that frequent this famous street in Saigon.

Darrell was less than impressed that we didn't go to a fully air-conditioned establishment, but I feel more relaxed, sitting in The Book Café and the gentle oscillation of a fan behind me. This really is my idea of heaven and in another life, I would be here like a shot, every day of my life.

Yesterday was a healthy day for me, I only drank a pint and a half of beer, preferring carrot juice instead. So with another, 20000 steps under my belt, well needed refreshment was required. Sitting in the café, gently passing the time of day and people watching from the open verandah that wraps around this idyllic place, I was transported to a far better place, away from the hustle and bustle of the city.

We must have been there for about ten minutes, when a young girl approached me called Sushi. She was eight years old and asked me, ever so politely, if she could talk with me in English. At first, I was a little confused, since this isn't something that would normally happen in Australia, but asking Sushi if she was with her Mum, she duly pointed to a lady sat behind me; I was reassured, as we chatted about her life in Vietnam.

Sushi was a joy to speak with; she has only been learning English for ten months and already her vocabulary is perfect. When I look at the way other nationalities embrace new languages, it often makes me feel ashamed to be English. This young girl — inquisitive, motivated and engaging, was happy to converse with a perfect stranger, encompassing everything that is perfect, honest, and confident in young children. Her desire to learn is infectious, and it is something all of us, even an old man like me, can learn from.

Meeting Sushi was the highlight of my holiday to Vietnam. This unexpected encounter is a memory I will always cherish, as an adorable and unexpected experience in the heart of Saigon!

Tao Đàn Park and Taco Del Sol

From our hotel in District 3, we took a walk towards Tao Đàn Park and District 1. District 1 is far more lively than where we are staying, but it doesn't have the cultural landmarks that we go on holiday to see. It is full to bursting with bars and clubs, restaurants and other diverse establishments.

We decided to have an early evening meal at Taco Del Sol, something other than Vietnamese for a change. The portion sizes are small here compared to Australia, and it's easy to see why Vietnam is the least obese nation in the World. The meal size is perfect for me now, but for Darrell, less so, who looked rather disappointed.

Tomorrow is our last day in Ho Chi Minh City, and we want to make the most of it, so it was an early night after a few beers in the Craft Beer Café. I guess I must be showing my age — it wasn't that long ago I'd be up partying all night, now I'm happy to be in bed by 9 pm… Funny how life changes!