Day 3 — The Independence Palace, Saigon!

7/4/2024

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The Independence Palace

Today was the hottest day in Vietnam so far, approaching 40 degrees. Now I am well-used to these temperatures, living in Australia, but what I am not used to, is the high humidity levels. These are commonplace in Asia and must have been well over 80% at the height of the day. Still, we had a pre-planned appointment at The Independence Palace, about fifteen minutes walk from where we are staying, delving into Vietnam's recent past.

This was one monument I was looking forward to seeing; I am a Brutalism enthusiast and find this style of architecture a joy. The Independence Palace is breathtaking in every respect; despite its modern appearance, I was overwhelmed by the size and configuration of this building. Entering the Palace is an awe-inspiring experience!

There are many staterooms, that are set for various functions and meetings and all of them are surprisingly sumptuous in design. Everyone of the individually decorated spaces are in keeping with this large, open, airy, modern piece of Vietnamese architecture. Walking around this place, with the hundreds of tourists from all over the World on a Sunday morning, you are kept relatively cool, away from the hot temperature outside. I was certainly impressed by just how fresh this building was inside, despite having little to no air-conditioning. The Independence Palace was specifically designed to keep the occupants comfortable, even on the hottest of days.

As you walk around the grounds of the Palace, you are reminded of the Vietnam War, which is a huge part of Vietnam's history. There are examples of military hardware wherever you look — helicopters, tanks, and planes. This was an important addition to our time in Saigon, but it is the only time Darrell and I will spend thinking about that terrible war. That may seem a little uncaring for some, but we both made a conscious decision to avoid such locations as The War Remnants Museum and Chi Chi Tunnels.

Having travelled to Vietnam in the past, I visited many of the places that document the Vietnam War. These are not places to take lightly. They left me with a very heavy heart and a deep sense of foreboding that took many months to overcome. I still have those significant, horrifying memories, but I do not dwell on them, as much as I used to.

This holiday to Vietnam, is about seeing the other side of this country, just as influential as its war history, commemorated every day. During my ten days here, I want to experience the positivity, that the Vietnamese are famous for and put the war to one side. As a young Vietnamese lad told me, there is more to this country than death — we also need to celebrate life! How true; Never forget the past that made you who you are, the resilience of those who live in this beautiful country is legendary, and it's the future of younger generations that is important; their vibrancy is infectious and that is reason enough to visit this wonderful land!

Conversational English with Sushi at The Phương Nam Book Café

From The Independence Palace, we walked back to the hotel, stopping for a coffee in Book Street. This seems to be my go-to place, the area where I feel most at home, surrounded by books and the many nationalities that frequent this famous street in Saigon.

Darrell was less than impressed that we didn't go to a fully air-conditioned establishment, but I feel more relaxed, sitting in The Book Café and the gentle oscillation of a fan behind me. This really is my idea of heaven and in another life, I would be here like a shot, every day of my life.

Yesterday was a healthy day for me, I only drank a pint and a half of beer, preferring carrot juice instead. So with another, 20000 steps under my belt, well needed refreshment was required. Sitting in the café, gently passing the time of day and people watching from the open verandah that wraps around this idyllic place, I was transported to a far better place, away from the hustle and bustle of the city.

We must have been there for about ten minutes, when a young girl approached me called Sushi. She was eight years old and asked me, ever so politely, if she could talk with me in English. At first, I was a little confused, since this isn't something that would normally happen in Australia, but asking Sushi if she was with her Mum, she duly pointed to a lady sat behind me; I was reassured, as we chatted about her life in Vietnam.

Sushi was a joy to speak with; she has only been learning English for ten months and already her vocabulary is perfect. When I look at the way other nationalities embrace new languages, it often makes me feel ashamed to be English. This young girl — inquisitive, motivated and engaging, was happy to converse with a perfect stranger, encompassing everything that is perfect, honest, and confident in young children. Her desire to learn is infectious, and it is something all of us, even an old man like me, can learn from.

Meeting Sushi was the highlight of my holiday to Vietnam. This unexpected encounter is a memory I will always cherish, as an adorable and unexpected experience in the heart of Saigon!

Tao Đàn Park and Taco Del Sol

From our hotel in District 3, we took a walk towards Tao Đàn Park and District 1. District 1 is far more lively than where we are staying, but it doesn't have the cultural landmarks that we go on holiday to see. It is full to bursting with bars and clubs, restaurants and other diverse establishments.

We decided to have an early evening meal at Taco Del Sol, something other than Vietnamese for a change. The portion sizes are small here compared to Australia, and it's easy to see why Vietnam is the least obese nation in the World. The meal size is perfect for me now, but for Darrell, less so, who looked rather disappointed.

Tomorrow is our last day in Ho Chi Minh City, and we want to make the most of it, so it was an early night after a few beers in the Craft Beer Café. I guess I must be showing my age — it wasn't that long ago I'd be up partying all night, now I'm happy to be in bed by 9 pm… Funny how life changes!