Category: Travel

Bangkok City - Life in the Sky!

24/9/2022

Street Life in Bangkok

Yesterday we went for a last visit to the city centre and shopping district of Bangkok. We took the boat from the hotel in Pranakorn, to the end of the line in Sathorn. From here we jumped straight on the BTS Sky Train and travelled to Siam Square and the main shopping district. Up until yesterday we have only really observed the city from afar, so taking the opportunity to really look at the workings of this metropolis, home to 11 million people, gave us a fascinating insight into Bangkok life.

The most interesting part of Bangkok, for me at least, is life above the streets, connecting one area to another. A whole new world has built up around the BTS monorail industrial style architecture; market traders, vendors, food stalls, in fact everything you find at ground level has moved upwards into the city in the sky. There are more people on the walkways that criss-cross Bangkok, down the middle of every highway, than there are at street level. At first, it does feel rather alien to a visitor like me, but when you realise the importance of this public transport system, it is easy to see why it has grown exponentially!

Above all, the covered walk ways that connect stations and businesses, create welcome shelter from the severe temperatures that engulf this city every day. It is markedly cooler along the busy above ground thoroughfares, than it is down below, and for that reason it works well. On the downside, it doesn't look particularly pleasing to the eye; huge swathes of concrete rail lines and over passes brutally carving a path through the city. Nevertheless, it is an essential part of Bangkok life, that keeps this city ticking along at an almost manic pace.

The one thing you notice on all Asian streets, whichever city you are in, across the continent, is the small shrines, dedicated to Buddhism and other Asian religions. These beautiful pieces of art, in their own right, not only look spectacular, but they also serve a purpose. Dedicated followers of faith come daily and leave offerings and garlands of colourful flowers. I don't pretend to know anything about any of the religions here in Thailand, but it is comforting looking in at these people, making a prayer in the middle of a large modern city. Tradition and modernity seem to sit side by side happily; British people could learn a lot from this harmonious relationship between the earthly and spiritual, for no other reason than a respect for one another in a fragmented world. These shrines bring people together in a way nothing else does, and it is an amazing spectacle to be a part of.

HM The late Queen Elizabeth II

It was lovely to see the city of Bangkok paying its own tribute to HM The late Queen Elizabeth as well. This is the first acclamation of its kind that I have seen, although I believe some of the larger towers are projecting an image of The Queen onto their buildings also.

Wherever I have gone in Thailand, I am asked where I come from and as soon as I mention the UK, they offer me their condolences on the death of Her Majesty. It is easy to see why, since Their own Thai King and Royal Family are so respected and revered here. There are portraits of the King everywhere you look, and even shops that specifically sell photo's of members of the Royal Family. This was a bit of a culture shock for me, even with my Monarchist views, but I do find it particularly endearing and similar to the way the King of Cambodia is also loved, respected and looked up to, something I witnessed first hand when I stayed there in 2019.

The rain came early yesterday, while we were still in the city. The thunder and lightening was quite intense, but it certainly didn't dampen our spirit. The rain is so warm, that it helps the whole city cool down for a brief period of time and is a spectacle to behold. So much rain falls in such a short space of time, that the deluge causes blocked trains and flooding right across the centre. There are people specifically employed to clean up the water during the downpours, and they manage it pretty well.

Tuk Tuk

After the rain and a late lunch in Nandos, (OK I know it isn't Thai, but the rain really was belting it down, and it was the nearest place we could find) we decided to get a Tuk Tuk back to the hotel. I had been wanting to do this for a while, since I arrived, but was always weary, because of the almost predatory, menacing way the Tuk Tuk drivers chase you down the road, trying to persuade you to hire their cab. I am not a person who deals with this type of persistent, rude behaviour very well. Coming from Britain, we just don't see this type of thing, and it is a practice that is far too aggressive for me. However, we both bit the bullet and jumped in one of these rickety, old, dangerous and damn right scary things and got a ride back to our hotel in superfast time.

The trip back was intense, as the driver weaved in and out of heavy traffic at speed. We were thrown around in the back, trying to hold on for dear life; it was unlike anything I have ever experienced. In truth our driver was giving us the ride of our lives, making sure we were suitably disorientated, rather like being on a fairground ride, but like Darrell, I enjoyed every bit of it. By the time we arrived back at our hotel, through the colourful, noisy streets of Bangkok, our heads were spinning; both of us just couldn't stop laughing.

This will be a long-lasting, enduring memory of Bangkok and although it cost us far more than we should have paid, it was worth every penny. Paying 300 Thai Baht for the journey, around £7.00 was excessive apparently, but it didn't seem that expensive to me; still we will know better next time!

Night Out in Phranakorn

In the evening we had another wonderful meal at So Samsen; I chose Hang Gang-Le, which was a spicy pork stew. Our host, Aom, explained that she used to work in Australia and helped set up a Michellin star restaurant in Darrell's home city of Perth. This immediately explains why the food at So Samsen is so good. After a few drinks, we spent a lot of time talking with Aom and the other members of staff that work there. They have all been so friendly and welcoming, we have some wonderful memories to take with us on our journey!

The Thai White Spirit was a wonderful way to end the evening with Aom; yes it was punchy and stronger than anything I have tasted before, but it does help with the digestion, apparently. Personally, I just think it's a way of getting drunk quicker, and true to form it had the desired effect.

At 9pm, with left our favourite restaurant for a walk to sober up a little, but ended up stumbling into a rather lively district full of clubs and bars. I had an awful feeling the night wasn't going to end well, but by now I was so drunk I didn't care!

The rain was just beginning to fall as we sat down for a drink in a local bar, opposite one of the many massage parlours in Bangkok. These places are literally everywhere, around every corner, as common as hairdressers are in the UK. The bar was busy with lots of young revellers out for a good time. Having been drinking since 6.30 pm, I was feeling a little bit worse for wear myself and was quite happy to just sit, watch, listen to the live music and take in the sights and smells of this area in the backstreets of Bangkok, near Samsen Road.

Darrell and I don't really drink to excess any more, so on the rare occasions we do, we enjoy ourselves. Walking around the tiny backstreets was a bit frightening on occasion, nearly falling down open drains and the like, but once again it was all part of a journey I will remember fondly, warts and all. I love exploring new places, and there certainly is a lot to see in Phranakorn. I know Darrell and I would dearly love to come back here in time, especially to see Aom and the crew at So Samsen.

Whatever the future holds, we are leaving here on Monday morning, to travel to our final hotel before we fly to Perth. We have both had a fantastic twelve days in this wonderful city of contrasts and will miss the bonds we have formed. It is important to keep the memories burning bright as we say farewell to Thailand, because this is a country we have both fallen in love with. Darrell and I rarely agree on much, we are very different characters, but if we both like something well enough, chances are, we will be back, and I can't wait for the day we can be here together again enjoying the delights of Thailand in our own special way.

Farewell to Phranakorn

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Wat Saket, The Golden Mount & Wat Ratchanatdaram Worawihan

23/9/2022

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On Friday, we had a relatively quiet day. We didn't want to go out of the surrounding area too far and just decided to take a long walk, along the canal, and see where it took us. I made damn sure I had my large hat with me, since temperatures were expected to reach over 36 degrees and I didn't want to be any more burnt than I was already.

At the end of our canal walk, we came to the extremely busy Ratchadamnoen Klang Road, which we crossed over to take a look at the decidedly beautiful Wat Ratchanatdaram and the Royal Pavilion. As we began to take a look around, we were once again confronted by another tuk tuk driver wanting to sell us a ride. Of course, he never said that outright, but pretended to want to help us get our bearings. Darrell clocked on soon after, and we bolted in the other direction. There are a lot of scams involving these drivers, and we are well aware of how difficult they can be to get away from, but we did manage, after a long conversation about where we should go, to make our excuses and leave. We may well have not gone with him, but he did at least help us find our way around a bit better.

The Royal Pavilion was closed off to the public, as are a lot of the Wat's we have visited, but interestingly the Tuk Tuk driver explained, that when this is the case, it is because they can only be used by The King and members of the Royal Family. In effect, they have to be kept in an imminent state of readiness. It is easy to see why these places are preserved perfectly; they are so richly decorated and lovingly maintained, they are pieces of art in their own right. Hoards of tourists walking through, milling around and treading on the embossed surfaces, would soon destroy the elegance and conserved architectural integrity of these buildings.

Wat Ratchanatdaram Worawihan

Wat Saket, The Golden Mount

From the Royal Pavilion we walked the relatively short distance to The Golden Mount or Wat Saket. This was an unexpected stop for us, since we never really planned to go here at all. It cost 100 Baht (£2.00) each to go in and climb the stairs to the top of the mount, which is pretty reasonable, like all places of historical interest in Bangkok.

As we ascended the steps we were greeted with various statues of Buddha, tropical gardens, waterfalls and large bronze bells. Apparently if you ring these ornately decorated chimes you will get good luck. As someone who doesn't really understand any religion, let alone Buddhism, there does seem to be an element of luck involved in the process of worship. We are all looking for that small bit of good fortune that will help us in our lives, and religion, whilst not claiming to grant wishes, does give a feeling that whoever is looking down on us, will grant our desires, if we adhere to their way of thinking. I suppose it is a way of controlling the masses and giving them hope to cling on to each time they pay homage to Buddha, or anyone else they care to worship.

I was content to play along and rang the bells like everyone else, but unlike them, I have no expectations involved in my walk to the top of the mount. This was purely about the view from the top and the framed skyline that would appear as soon as my toes touched that final step. Yes, it was a stunning panorama; a 360 degree view of the city in all its full glory. Of course, Bangkok is far too big for you to see the whole thing, but you do get the gist of just how magnificent it is. As I looked down across the city, I could see the sun shining off the many Wats or temples that cover it. The golden covered structures, illuminated in the sunlight, stand out as beacons for the faithful and look like shining jewels across the urban landscape.

We must have taken a good hour looking at the view, pointing out areas of interest, places we had seen and landmarks we would like to visit. With the wind blowing through the open windows at the top, it was actually quite pleasant sat there, away from the heat. I must stress once again however, Bangkok is not the most beautiful city I have ever stayed in, but as Wat Saket shows, it does have some stunning places to visit, and they are so well looked after, by a dedicated and disciplined work force.

Street life in Bangkok is very different, mind you, and as we left the mount and made our way back to the hotel along the canal, I was reminded of just how unsanitary this city can be at times. If the colour of the canal isn't off-putting enough, the rubbish floating on its surface, rats running past your feet and smells that leave little to the imagination, only add to the third worldly feel. That is not to say, this makes it a less attractive place to visit, because I have actually grown to love this city more and more, each day I spend here. However, with only a few days left before we fly to Australia, I hope to make the most of the time I have left and relax just a little more, before our journey continues.

Trying to keep fit - UNSUCCESSFULLY

Back at the hotel, I spent a few minutes in the gym, trying to lose a few pounds. When I say a few minutes, I mean just that. I absolutely detest exercise, especially going to a gym, so this moment of madness soon wore off. I was completely shattered after ten minutes anyway and decided it was time we went to So Samsen for an evening meal instead, drinking even more beer than usual because of the humidity that just continues to rise.

As I sat down to a plate of Knom Jeen Nam-Ngeow, the heavens opened and the rain came tumbling down. The food was once again fantastic, as it always is. Our lovely hostess explained a little about the dish, which is essentially a spicy pork stew. It came with a large plate of accompaniments, including rice noodles, onion and chillies. I could add as much or as little to the dish as I wanted, bit by bit. In the end you eat it rather like a salad and the flavours were divine. This is real authentic Thai food and I just can't fault it in any way. The perfect way to end a fully packed day!

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The Six Temples of Ayutthaya on our 27th Anniversary!

23/9/2022

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Yesterday was mine and Darrell's 27th Anniversary and seven years since we were married in 2015; another milestone reached, as we continue to travel across the World. I had arranged a special excursion for this day, with Bangkok City Tours, and I wasn't disappointed. It was good to go somewhere different on our Anniversary, somewhere memorable and somewhere that has enriched both of our lives.

We were picked up by our tour guide Ta Wee Sin from our hotel at 7am; yes, it was an early start, but with my body clock still firmly on European time, it didn't bother me too much. The heavens had opened that morning and the rain was falling thick and fast. The roads were dark and drenched in water, and I had a terrible feeling Thursday would be a complete washout. Fearing the worst, but hoping for the best, I stayed positive, grabbing two umbrellas from the hotel as we went, just in case.

Darrell and I were the second two passengers, after our American friend from Texas, Osmin. Ta Wee Sin then drove to the next hotel where we picked up Sandrine and Charlotte, her daughter from France and finally a Brazilian couple; seven of us thrown together on a tour of world heritage site Ayutthaya and the six temples. At a cost of 1600 thb each, which is roughly £30.00, we set out on a full day journey to the most important Wats or temples in the park, where we would discover much about Thai history and a past littered with war and conflict. This was my kind of day rather than Darrell's, although he also thoroughly enjoyed the experience and like me was fascinated by a past unfolding before us.

I visited Angkor Wat in Cambodia in 2019, which was an experience like no other, so I was expecting much the same in Thailand, although the Wat's here are not as big. Nevertheless, they are equally impressive and steeped in historic significance. As someone who loves Buddhism and the symbolism behind it, I was amazed by Ayutthaya and just how primitive people could have constructed such a site; it truly was a marvel of the ancient World!

Bang Pa-In

Our first stop was the Summer Palace, Bang Pa-In. Compared with the temples, this was distinctly modern, with various styles of architecture on display. There were classical, European, Chinese and Thai, all sitting happily in extensive grounds, perfectly manicured, lovingly cared for and looked after.

After the deluge of the morning and an hour's drive North, the weather was sunny and hot once again, which although a relief, meant for another humid day. Darrell and I had twenty minutes to explore this complex, when we could have spent all day, but being on an organised tour, this is what you expect, in order to see as much as you can.

We were instructed to wear our face masks and with guards and soldiers everywhere, taking our temperature and making sure we were following the rules, we set off for a quick look around, and it was beautiful. In many respects you could say this was a folly, a park built by a King to satisfy his desire to experience different cultures in the privacy of his Summer Palace; but it had been clearly and precisely executed and looked perfect in every way. This was a lovely place to visit and should be a must for any tourist to see.

Wat Yai Chai Mongkhon - Great Monestry of Auspicious Victory!

This stunning Temple was left abandoned until the 1950s, after Ayutthaya fell to the Burmese in 1767. However, this was one of the best preserved Wat's on our tour. Today it is still used by the monks as a Monastery in part and of course a place to worship. Walking around, I was struck by how quiet and peaceful it was, even with all the tourists in tow.

There was plenty to see on our brief stay, and I was captivated by the many statues of Buddha dressed in golden cloth, so asked Ta Wee Sin, what the significance of this was. He explained it is a symbol of respect and that if we stroked the cloth and made a wish it would come true. Of course, I duly followed his lead and did so, not expecting too much in return.

Wat Yai Chai Mongkhon was a stunning place to visit. I liked the hundreds of Buddha's everywhere, it really did give it a safe feel for me. I am not religious, but if I was, Buddhism would be my first choice. Ta Wee Sin also explained his love of Buddhism; having worked as a tour guide for more than thirty-seven years and meeting so many lovely tourists, he wants to eventually spend the rest of his days studying Buddhism and devoting his life to a faith that is deep within his soul!

Wat Maha That

Wat Maha That is the oldest temple in Ayutthaya, built around 1380 and famous for Buddhas image trapped within a Bodhi Tree. This was another impressive Wat, interestingly built from brick and not stone as Angkor Wat was. This is probably why all of these temples are less well-preserved, but however, no less impressive.

Walking around the complex you get an idea of the vastness of these religious sites and as I set foot, where many feet have trod, I noticed imprints from those who have gone before. There was even graffiti from a bygone age, as intact as the monument it was written.

Most people visit this Wat for the Bodhi Tree and as Ta Wee Sin took our photograph, I felt deeply honoured to be there. This is indeed a special place for Thai people, but it is more than that, it is a part of all our history and an imprint of a tumultuous past that still has an impact on people today. This living history not only records the past in its walls, but it also teaches us lessons for the future.

Phra Buddha Sai Yat - The Reclining Buddha

This 400-year-old reclining Buddha is the fourth largest in Thailand, 43 meters long and 15 meters high. Built of cement and brick, it is probably one of the best preserved monuments we saw. The reason why it is in such good condition, is because it has been protected from the elements at various different points in its history.

We only had a very short time to connect with this Buddha, but it was relaxing, just sitting staring at this glorious statue and watching pilgrims light candles and burn incense sticks. Alone with my thoughts, I was able to say a prayer or two of my own.

The significance of the reclining Buddha, you may be interested to know, is to show that all beings have the potential to be awakened and released from the cycle of death and rebirth!

Viham - Shrine of Buddha's Image

This impressive structure was all but quiet when we arrived. There were Monks going about their business, and you could hear the noise of cockerels calling around the site. There are images of Buddha everywhere and in the centre, this tall, almost Romanesque monument, which Darrell climbed to the top of, looking down across the paddy fields and lakes filled with lily pads. According to Darrell, there was a shrine to Buddha inside.

As he left he banged his head on the small doorway, nearly knocking himself out, but despite his bruised head and loss of pride, he thoroughly enjoyed the climb. For me, well, it was nice just sat alone at the bottom gazing at the Thai countryside around me. This is why I have come to Thailand, this is what makes me want to live again!

Authentic Thai Lunch with New Friends

We had a beautiful Thai lunch in a traditional Thai restaurant, where all of us got to know one another over a few beers. Each of us there were travelling for different reasons, all from very different backgrounds and countries, but we all seemed to get on well enough, as we munched our way through some authentic home cooked cuisine.

It did feel a little unnerving sat next to a rather menacing looking river, with water pouring over the roof of the restaurant, but it was decidedly tropical in the countryside and a welcome break from the bright lights of Bangkok.

Wat Phra Si Sanphet

At the time of its destruction in 1767, Wat Phra Si Sanphet was the grandest and indeed the holiest of temples in the Ayutthaya Kingdom, and it is easy to see why. Despite being mostly ruins now, the large footprint of the Wat and the sheer number of buildings, looks on the surface at least to be unmatched. This was the most impressive temple we went to, and it seemed apt, it was our last stop of the day.

We wandered around with Osmin looking at this historic site and by the end of this tour, I think, rather like us, he was exhausted, having seen more temples than one could possibly want or need to see in a lifetime. By now the temperatures had surpassed 36 degrees, and we were literally burning, so we quickly left for the shade of a covered market, just near the entrance to the Wat. Still chatting with Osmin, who is travelling alone in Thailand, I was impressed by his sense of adventure, after all as far as I knew, most Texans had never left Texas, let alone travelled thousands of miles away to another country.

We had a lovely journey on the way back to the hotel, conversing with new-found friends, which is what travelling is all about. It felt like we were the new pioneers, having just entered Thailand when restrictions were lifted very recently, after the pandemic. There are still many barriers to tourism here at the moment, but most native Thai's were glad to see us, and continue to offer us a warm welcome wherever we travel.

Bangkok City Tours was a dream, and I was so glad we chose to go with them. Ta Wee Sin was a joy to listen to during our six temple tour and I would thoroughly recommend this company. The knowledge and expertise of our guide was mesmerising and without him and his amazing photography skills, I think our experience of Ayutthaya would have been all the poorer.

Anniversary Meal on So Samsen

..... And finally after an early start and a hard day we went to So Samsen for another traditionally cooked Thai meal, which was delicious.

I can't believe Darrell and I have been together for 27 years, but I am always glad we are travelling the World on our anniversary, doing what we love best, because that is what makes us who we are. Oh, we argue a little more than we used to, but that just comes with the territory when you get old and have been together so long. However, I wouldn't have us any other way, and as long as we keep travelling, we will be together; the pandemic is over, it's time to start exploring once again!

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The Grand Palace & Wat Arun, Bangkok!

21/9/2022

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The Grand Palace, Bangkok

On Tuesday we travelled the length of the river Chao Phraya, to decide where to visit the next day, in order to get the most out of our stay in Bangkok. Our first destination on Wednesday was the Grand Palace, and after a short boat ride, we arrived at this popular tourist destination. The pier was busy, full of tourists, confused, working out which way to go to get to the Palace. The sign posting was extremely confusing and with a diversion in place, we did end up walking around in circles for a while. I have to admit, at one stage we gave up and walked back to the tourist ferry to go to our next destination.

We were told in no uncertain terms, we could not enter the Grand Palace wearing short trousers, so Darrell being Darrell, decided we were leaving, and we weren't going to do what they said. Sat waiting for the ferry, I suggested we go over to the shop opposite and buy some suitable clothes; perturbed, Darrell reluctantly agreed, and we bought a couple of outfits, fighting our way back through the throng and into the palace entrance.

Security and anti COVID measures were tight as we made our way through the various check points. Our temperatures were taken on a number of occasions, and we had to wear a mask all the way through to the palace itself. The heat was almost unbearable as Darrell and I entered the first courtyard, after stepping through the entrance, but my God, as we hopped over the step and into the square, I was in absolute awe of the place; I was walking through fairy land, and it was spectacular; a feast for the senses and I didn't know where to look first.

Around every corner, there was an even more wonderful building, shining brightly in the sunlight. Thai architecture is unlike anything I have ever seen. It is garish, shiny, sparkly and brash, but its stunning beauty reminds you of just where you are. If I was a subject of the King of Thailand, I would be wonder struck at the scene playing out before me. This was a sacred site, a royal home and a place of worship; it was simply spectacular.

The all consuming heat of the day was reflecting off the golden, mirrored surfaces that adorned the majestic construction of the Grand Palace in Bangkok. The sweat was dripping off us, like an uncontrollable torrent, but surprisingly, the clothes were keeping us cooler than one would have expected. Our reluctance to dress in traditional Thai attire disappeared, as we realised there was a reason people in Thailand dressed as they do. To be honest, if I had also worn a suitable hat from the beginning of the day, I would have felt even better. As it was, I was burnt from my head to my neck, and it was all my fault for not following the guidelines.

The palace complex was vast; we stopped several times, to go inside various temples, taking our shoes off and sitting for a short while, absorbing the atmosphere and just being a part of the colourful spectacle in front of us - Statues of Buddha finished in gold, surrounded by offerings from people visiting the temples, incense wafting around the hallowed halls and coloured garlands hanging from statues and smaller figurines. This was a very strange experience coming from a western culture, but it was truly humbling to be a part of it, and accepted by everyone around us, as an equal. This is very different to the way we would have treated tourists in the UK; we have so much to learn of the people of Thailand!

We walked around the vast Grand Palace for an hour and a half, eventually making our way out into a distinctly European styled park with a classically built mansion at its heart; perfectly manicured gardens and ornate topiary, set the scene for a refined private space, fit for a King. Everywhere you looked was a breathtakingly beautiful, this was by far the most impressive destination we had visited. Time wasn't on our side, however, so we made our way back to the ferry and to our next stop of the day, Wat Arun!

Wat Arun, Bangkok

Wat Arun was just another quick boat ride away. This tall, ornate structure on the banks of the Chao Phraya looks phenomenal, as the boat pulls in to the pier. It cost one hundred Baht (£2.00) each to get inside the large temple. It does seem wrong to say, but compared to The Grand Palace, Wat Arun did seem a bit of an anti climax, even though it is an impressive structure. The ornate stone carving is divine and triggered that spiritual side in me that rarely surfaces these days. It was a building like no other. There was no gold, mirrors and garish decoration, just more muted tones, which sat in harmony with its surroundings. This was traditional, ancient Thai construction at its finest, and was in complete contrast to everything we had seen before.

It was at this point I had to buy a hat, the biggest one I could find, since I was burning in all the wrong places. My shoulders, neck and head were red raw, so I grabbed what I could from a local market stall and put it straight on. OK, it wasn't the most attractive look in the World, but I really didn't care. When you are sweating like a glassblowers a*se, the way you look isn't important. Straight away I felt the benefits as I made my way around the site; finally I had some relief from the sun!

Walking around Wat Arun, I was struck by the number of 'pilgrims.' Ladies getting off one of the many boats to the Wat, were dressed in their finest clothes, while little old sweaty mess me, staggered around aimlessly. I am intrigued to find out why they go here and what significance it has. What I have been told, is there is a strict dress code in all the temples, because members of the current Thai Royal Family still used these historic places, so in a way, it would be like me going to Buckingham Palace dressed in a pair of shorts and a T-shirt - it just isn't done.

Wat Arun has to be one of the most beautiful temples we visited, and I loved walking along its ancient walkways, just brushing my hand against the masonry, feeling the history between my fingers. I was privileged to be walking in the footsteps of many thousands before me, and I did feel lucky, especially after the pandemic. It felt like I would never travel again and despite Thailand's strict COVID measures in place, it didn't detract from the majesty of Bangkok!

One of Thailand's National Deserts

So on Samsen Road, Bangkok

To end the day, Darrell wanted to visit the most expensive shopping mall I have ever been it, Iconsiam. The brands included Cartier, Tiffany and the like. This wouldn't be a place I would usually visit, but I was boiling hot and just needed to cool down, so went with gritted teeth.

Inside, this homage to excess and greed, was like walking into the Hanging Gardens of Babylon. There were fake flowers, a pretend street market and even a reproduction lake. To be honest, it looked awful and souless, and I would never choose to go there again.

We went for a meal in a Korean restaurant on the ground floor and had what I can only describe as a tasteless pastiche of Korean cuisine; it tasted nothing like the food we ate in Korea in 2019. At an over inflated price, including over four pounds for a tiny beer, I did lose my rag somewhat. It's places like this that give cities like Bangkok the money they need to grow and expand, but it really sends the wrong message to traditional Thai people, who continue to live and work here. In contrast, right next door, there was a scrapyard, where traders were making money in the best way they could; this really could be a tale of two cities, and it made me feel sad.

Luckily we left pretty soon, since even Darrell got bored with the overpriced consumerism. This wasn't the reason I came to Thailand, and I hope to never venture into a shopping mall again.

However, there was one redeeming feature, Darrell and I bought one of Thailands traditional deserts for a treat, but at a cost of ten pounds it wasn't cheap, like everything at Iconsiam. It was made of shaved ice, milk, flaked almonds, cake and sweet caviar with cream. OK, so it did taste bloody good, but I'm sure I could get it somewhere else for a fraction of the price.

Suitably cooled down, we made our way back home for a delicious meal at our now favourite restaurant, So on Samsen Road, a place we will be back to eat every day this week. The food is delicious, home cooked, prepared in a clean kitchen and the toilets are sparkling, that's a must for me. Above all, the price was right - a two-course meal and two beers for under twenty pounds.... can't go wrong!

Until tomorrow!

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Another Day Another Hotel - Patpong to Phranakorn!

20/9/2022

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Nouvo City Hotel, Phranakorn

We arrived at our new hotel, The Nouvo City at 12pm, after a short cab ride from The Siam Heritage in the rain, which decided to belt it down as we were leaving. Despite liking the more traditional Siam Hotel, I was actually looking forward to a bit more luxury. The Nouvo City Hotel is an award-winning destination, down by the river, and it is easy to see why. The hotel rooms are large and spacious and have a superb array of services. The Nouvo offers everything from a laundry service, 24-hour room service and other facilities we haven't seen yet on our stay in Thailand.

There is a gym, spa, heated swimming pool, two wonderful restaurants and since I have just eaten breakfast this morning, an excellent buffet breakfast. Last night we ate dinner here. Embarrassingly, when I ordered a beer with my food, I was a little bit confused, when the waiter said they didn't serve alcohol; then the penny dropped. This city hotel caters for a mainly Muslim clientele, although there are more Europeans here than I have seen elsewhere. I had basically booked an alcohol-free hotel; luckily there is a wonderful bar just opposite where you can get a very large ninety Baht beer.

However, the food I ordered was delicious. I'm not too sure I got the right meal mind you, since it was nothing like what I ordered, but it was out of this World - so fresh and tasty. To be honest it went down pretty well without a beer, so it really isn't a problem for me not drinking in the hotel itself. So far it's an impressive city residence and seems like the right choice for a more comfortable experience.

The surrounding area looks much the same as Patpong. You can tell this is a developing city, and there are lines and lines of telephone wires stretching across every street in the most confusing, haphazard way. There is a canal in front of the Nouvo, but the colour leaves a lot to be desired; it certainly isn't Venice. That is the real charm of this place though; it is different, gritty and unpolished and that is why I like it. The disorganisation Bangkok projects just makes for a more memorable time!

Laundry

Darrell and I have been travelling for quite a few weeks now, so we have been desperate to find a hotel to do our accumulation of washing for us. Having spoken to the concierge at the desk, he explained the hotel could do our laundry, but it would be markedly cheaper to pop just over the road to a small Chinese laundrette, where they would do it for a third of the price. I was a little hesitant at first, but thought why not, I might as well give it a go.

I walked the few hundred meters up Samsen Road, where a group of ladies were sat outside, chatting, laughing and bashing clothes; not using a washing machine that I could see. I passed over my bag of clothes, which weighed four kilograms. This was important; they charge one hundred baht per kilogram for an express wash, which is about two pounds, so for eight pounds they would have everything washed for 10 pm that night. It was a little more expensive because of the quick turnaround and would have cost a fraction of what we paid, to have it done in twenty-four hours. Still, for me, it was a bargain and worth every single Baht and the washing came back perfect, folded and pressed; it would probably cost more to turn the washing machine on back home these days!

Chao Phraya River Park

Without the luxury of a full day, Darrell and I decided to go for a walk along the bank of the Chao Phraya River. The temperature had rocketed upwards again since the rain, sitting at a toasty thirty-two degrees, so the breeze from the river was welcome.

Stopping for a delicious bite to eat at Coco Chaophraya, it was a joy just sat looking out over the distinctly busy waterway. We saw a couple of tourist boats go past and decided to walk up to the dockside, where we paid for a brief boat tour, just to see what this large city has to offer. At a cost of eighty pence, we spent an hour travelling up and back along the Chao Phraya, viewing the city scape in its full glory. The skyline is impressive, with ancient history everywhere you look. We will be back tomorrow to take the 'hop on/off' tour, spending the day visiting all the tourist sights.

Chao Phraya River Cruise

Thai Massage

Back at the hotel, while Darrell had a swim, I went for my first ever Thai Massage, a service offered by the hotel. At a cost of seven hundred Baht, which is about fifteen pounds, I was given an hour's treatment in the spa, and it was wonderful; in fact it was so good, I slept like a baby last night, for the first time in days.

Now seven hundred Baht is actually quite expensive on a Thai level for a massage, especially since I could have got one at the laundrette for two hundred and fifty, but lets just say I wanted to play it safe. I have heard many negative comments about various backstreet establishments offering a 'full service' as it were. Really, I just wanted to relax and enjoy the experience in a clean, sterile environment, and I wasn't disappointed.

I was taken to a darkened room and asked to put on a freshly prepared Thai outfit, and then this young Thai gentleman started giving me the massage from heaven. Starting off with my feet and legs, working his way to my back and buttocks. He then did my arms and hands, which was so relaxing, especially suffering with mild arthritis and finally onto my back, shoulders and neck. There was a lot of clicking going on, as he manipulated my muscles and tendons, pulled my fingers and cracked my back, finally stretching my arms backwards, which although painful, made me feel great afterwards. It was well worth every penny and I will be back for another one before I leave.

Street Life in Phranakorn

In the evening, we went for a walk around the local area of Phranakorn, which is very different to Patpong. Phranakorn is far more relaxing and friendly. It does feel a bit like going back in time, into a different world, but that is part of its charm. We settled down for a couple of drinks at So on Samsen Road, which feels like a family run bar. The hostess and waitresses were lovely, friendly, and very welcoming, unlike other places we have visited; already I felt completely at home.

The furnishings and decor were very Thai and extremely comfortable, unlike the more rough and ready bars around the area. Importantly for me, the toilets were immaculate, which is always a must, but just like everywhere else around here, there was a notice on the wall asking us to put toilet paper in the bin and not down the toilet, which was a bit strange. However, when you discover there is a problem with the drains blocking, you can understand why.

Sitting down, enjoying a bottle of Chang, a local cat came and plonked herself down next to Darrell and spent the evening sat next to us. Felines know who they like and if you are comfortable with cats or not, and she seemed to enjoy being around us. After talking to the owner, it seems she is a stray cat, but is looked after by her. She looks very well-kept I have to say, and it was great just sat there, chilling with a cat rubbing around our legs once more, we really have missed that feline contact since we've been travelling. So Bar, really did feel like a home from home, and we will be back tomorrow for dinner; to end another perfect day in paradise; well almost paradise!

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Bangkok - Where modernity sits in harmony with tradition!

19/9/2022

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Chong Nonsi Canal Park

There is so much to explore in Bangkok, knowing where to start is difficult. As I opened the curtains from our hotel room yesterday morning and saw the MahaNakhon tower, or the more aptly named 'falling down' building, outside my window which is truly a marvel to behold, I knew Darrell and I needed to explore the city before we headed for a more sophisticated stay down by the river, away from the fray of Silom 4 Alley.

I have enjoyed staying in this part of Bangkok, it certainly has been an eye-opener, but the extremes in this part of the city are laid bare (literally) in a very raw way. What you see is what you get here. This is a particularly seedy area, (there I've said it) and it wouldn't be a place where I would choose to stay again, but walking around, jumping on a BTS train from time to time, you can see a softer, more traditional side of Bangkok.

The community around our hotel is rather colourful, but if one looks deeper, below the surface, it seems sex isn't the taboo, it is in the UK in particular. There are clubs, massage parlours and 'money boy' bars everywhere, but that is just part of the course when you stay in Patpong, and it really just adds to the unusual atmosphere of the place. Its gritty underbelly is a reason to visit here alone; you will never see anything like it again.

A short sky train ride away we stumbled upon the Chong Nonsi Canal Park, similar to the one in Seoul in Korea, where we visited in 2019, although certainly not as well looked after or clean. The canal is still fascinating to visit, but still very much under construction. The water has a distinctly brown hue, rather than crystal clear; I dread to think what lurks inside.

The buildings around Chong Nonsi are particularly stunning, bright, modern and sparkling in the morning sun, interconnected with the brutalist structure of the BTS Sky Train system and a city living very much above the streets of Bangkok. It is a bit of a culture shock if you are not used to this extreme urban way of living, but to live it first hand was a treat and something I will never forget!

Sri Maha Mariamman Temple, Bangkok

From Chong Nonsi, we visited Sri Maha Mariamman Temple, nestling between the modern glass buildings that litter the skyline. This traditional Hindu place of worship was a fascinating encounter. There was a lot of noise, colour and the smell of incense was intense. This feast for the senses feels rather foreign to the casual observer. If you aren't used to Hinduism it can be quite a shock. Religious practise in the UK bears no resemblance to the Hindu religion and for that reason alone it is worth a visit. I was however, expecting a much larger building and was struck by how small it was, but the intimate space offered a look into a way of life, that people like me from western nations have very little concept of.

Golden Buddha Statue

After a short break at the hotel, freshening up after the scorching temperatures outside, Darrell and I walked the short distance to the nearest MRT station, to take an underground train, to the Statue of The Golden Buddha. The most annoying thing, about the otherwise perfect, public transport systems here in Bangkok, is they are not integrated, The BTS Sky Train works independently of the MTS Subway and this can be terribly frustrating.

We bought a day travel card for the Sky Train, at a cost of three pounds, rather than the twenty pounds you would pay in the UK, and being unknowledgeable tourists we initially thought we could use in on both systems, but no. At a cost of seventeen Bhat (about thirty pence) we paid separately for a token to take us the one of the most famous landmarks in Bangkok, situated just outside China Town.

The complex where the statue is situated was roasting hot and packed to bursting with pilgrims all wanting to go to this Buddhist site. We bought a ticket each to enter the inner sanctum, and it was a rather beautiful experience. It was of course difficult to take in everything in its full glory, due to the amount of people there, but it was nevertheless a visit I was glad to have undertaken. Yes it is a typical tourist stop, but that is what I am here for, to see these places and discover more about Thailand.

The biggest shock for me was the surrounding area, where the temple is build, which has clearly built up over time. I have often found myself surprised at just how run down the urban sprawl is around these monuments, it is completely at odds with the way things are in Britain at least, but it really does add to the lawless feel I have often felt here in Bangkok.

Bangkok China Town Gate

The Statue of the Golden Buddha is situated just outside China Town, which makes this a particularly colourful part of Bangkok. The smells, sights and feel of the area is typically Chinese and is a captivating place to visit. We didn't venture too far into the Town because we were extremely hot, but just took a brief look around, especially as I am such a fan of anything Asian.

By now we were literally melting and sweating profusely, so as we made our way back to the subway station we stopped for a welcome break in Starbucks. It did seem very odd seeing this vestige of western commercialism in the middle of this particular district, but it is again a reason why I love this part of the World so much. Asian culture is so different from our own, but you do on occasion see the two ways of life living in perfect harmony, side by side. There is after all no reason why our different lifestyles and traditions shouldn't coexist, it is just up to us to ensure we embrace all our peers as equal, without prejudice and afford one another the respect we all deserve.

Funeral of The late Queen Elizabeth II

After an exhausting day of sightseeing, I made it back to the hotel to watch The late Queen Elizabeth's funeral service. It has been difficult trying to find away of viewing this emotional event at home in the UK, since there is very little English-speaking television channels at the Siam Heritage Hotel. However, I did manage to watch the entire thing on a live feed from Sky News and what a very touching experience it was; something I will never forget for as long as I live.

The funeral began at 6 pm Bangkok time and with Darrell swimming in the roof pool, I sat down to watch Her Majesty's funeral without interruption. I don't think I have ever felt so moved in my life. My homeland was giving the only Monarch most of us have ever known, the best send off they could, and if I am honest, it has been heart-wrenching watching it from the sidelines in Bangkok; I would have much rather been home at this time.

I have done my best to remember The Queen whilst travelling, in the most respectful way I can. Friends and colleagues back home have also helped to make me feel a part of the proceedings back in Britain, by laying flowers on my behalf and saying a few words from me, which has helped with my own personal pain, watching the Queen's death unfold from afar.

Luckily I have been able to pay my respects to The late Queen here in Thailand. Visiting the Statue of the Golden Buddha, gave me the opportunity to say goodbye to my Queen in a very unique way. A few thoughts for a Lady who had a tremendous impact on my life. As a Monarchist, I will always respect the institution, whoever is King or Queen, but Elizabeth R, will always be the most amazing lady I have ever known. Her sense of duty is unmatched and her loyal service without precedent. I was glad to end the day immersed in the tradition and remembrance of a woman who has been the constant in my nations life and as I continue my travels around the World, I will always remember her as a beacon of light in this terribly dark World.

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Lumpini Park, Culture, Caturday Cafe and Kinky goings-on on Silom 4 Alley!

18/9/2022

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Siam Heritage Hotel

I've had the hangover from hell today and have literally been in bed all day; that will teach me to go out drinking in the gay district, Silom 4 Alley; more about that later. We had quite an eventful time yesterday, visiting some of the lovely places here in Bangkok, places I have read about, but never would have believed I would be here experiencing for myself.

The weather was exceedingly hot when I ventured to the top of the Siam Heritage, over 35 degrees by the afternoon; I just thank God I have air conditioning in my hotel room. We had a big day planned, so after a wonderful breakfast at the Siam Heritage, we made our way out into the madness of Bangkok and took a walk to Lumpini Park, right in the centre of the city.

Lumpini Park

Lumpini Park was stunning and an oasis during the soaring temperatures that engulf this city every day. As soon as I got there, the sweat was literally dripping off me; I was absolutely drenched. As I walked under the shade of the trees, I was struck by how green and lush everything is. Bangkok does have an awful lot of rain, and Darrell and I are staying here slap bang in the middle of the monsoon season. It hasn't dampened our spirit however, in fact it makes for a far more interesting time. The showers, when they come, are only brief and welcome after the extreme heat and humidity at one hundred percent!

There are park keepers all over this well cared for public space, busy doing their duties, keeping the park looking in tip-top condition. All the trees are adorned with local flowers, in wonderful shades of pink and orange, they look amazingly vibrant against the backdrop of the lake, that is central to Lumpini Park. Little did I know at the time, but the lake was full to bursting with lizards and other reptiles. Only when I reached a pagoda situated on the bank did I see a huge lizard sat under one of the wooden benches. I have to admit, I was a little shocked at first, but quickly remembered where I was.

Gingerly, I walked over to the end of the pagoda, looking over the side, and low and behold, there were loads of even bigger reptiles swimming around. They were that big, they actually looked like baby crocodiles; I'm sure they are pretty harmless, but I didn't want to get too close just in case. Walking further along, past traditional Thai buildings, I noticed a family sat in the grass feeding a large lizard, much as we would feed the ducks in the UK. These creatures are obviously well thought of and looked after here, but it was still a bit of a culture shock for me, seeing it up close.

Like everywhere I have been to in this part of the World, there are always stray cats, everywhere you look; Lumpini park was full of them. As we were leaving, I noticed a one lying at the side of the road; at first I thought it was dead. After a minute it moved ever so slightly, opened his eyes and clocked me. One meow and a whole family of cats came running towards us; we were surrounded! I can only assume they were hungry and after food, but sadly we didn't have any. Usually we carry cat food around with us when we are abroad, but we just hadn't had time to buy any.

It is worth coming to Bangkok, just to visit this park alone and if I am honest if it wasn't for the searing heat, I would have been there longer. It was time for us to find an air-conditioned shopping mall, so we could at least begin to cool down a little.

BTS Sky Train & Brutalist Architecture

Having left the park, we made our way through the streets of Bangkok, which really have a distinctly dystopian feel. The brutalist architecture of the Sky Train Monorail system is stark and gives this city a really crazy feel to it. Don't get me wrong, I love the system and the concrete, being a fan of this type of building technique myself, but this train in the sky rattling past every few minutes, just adds to the fast-paced environment, Bangkok projects. It is a very utilitarian way to build a public transport system, and it really doesn't do much for the over all aesthetics of the place. Bangkok certainly isn't a beautiful city, although it does have pretty places to go and unwind. In the main however, it is a working, developing city, modernity mingling with the traditional, and stares you straight in the face, and I like it!

Caturday Cat Cafe - Ratchathewi

After an hour's cooling downtime in a local shopping mall, we took the BTS skytrain from Siam to Ratchathewi Station for a spot of lunch at the Caturday Cat Cafe. Darrell and I always make a point of visiting these venues when we travel in Asia. They are so popular here, and it is easy to see why. With very little living space in the big cities, it is easy for people just to pop into one of these cafés to get their cat fix. An hour of petting is more than enough to de-stress and unwind, and they are adorable places to sit, chat and meet local people!

We paid twenty-seven pounds for our visit to this lovely little café. For that we had lunch and drinks, which were amazing by the way. I had a blended berry iced smoothie, all freshly made and tasted divine. I also bought a few souvenirs and a cat bag to die for, and all for such a reasonable price. Similar cafés in London were charging up to seventy pounds each for a trip, and the ones here in Thailand are also far cheaper than those in Seoul.

After removing our shoes, we were given a one and a half hour time slot to just sit and play with the cats. A Scottish fold almost immediately adopted us and plonked himself down on my cushion, which was fine, he was worth it and I could go and pet some other moggies. Some were more friendly than others, but all of them looked well cared for, which is a must for me.

The café was covered in cat trees and toys to keep the cats entertained. It was a little odd eating lunch with a cat perched above my head, but I soon got used to it, even with a paw hitting me on the head at times. One wall was covered in old retro TV sets, which was a little strange at first, until you realised this was where their beds were. A little Bengal cat sat longingly looking at one of the TV's, when a member of staff came over opened one up, and he jumped inside; what a great idea and it just added to the kitsch charm of the place. If we have time, we will certainly come again!

Royal Monument & University

From Caturday we took a long stroll back home; in total, I walked over twenty thousand steps yesterday and my feet didn't even hurt. That is an achievement for me, knowing that all the weight I have lost, has given me extra energy to do all the things I want to do, without puffing and panting and getting out of breath.

We popped to the Royal Monument and University on the way back to the Siam Heritage, just to marvel at the superb Thai architecture, which is unique to this part of the World. The gardens were so well-kept and looked after, as they all are in Bangkok, and it was a joy looking at the exotic flowers and fauna that sprawled right across this vast complex. This impromptu stop gave us a short rest before the carnage of Patpong!

Silom 4 Alley - Gay District, Bangkok

Now, this is where things got a little messy. When we got back to Patpong we immediately headed to Shenanigan's for a well needed drink to cool down. Well, that turned into three pints of Stella by 4.30 pm, and a determination to just stay out and get even more wasted. I've heard good and bad things about Patpong and most of what I have seen so far pointed in one direction. This was a district for drinking and partying and since I won't be coming back here anytime soon, I thought why not jump head long in.

From Shenanigans, we went for another two pints in O'hara's just around the corner and finally ended up in the gay strip of Silom 4 Alley. Here we visited a few of the gay bars, ending up at The Banana Bar, sheltering from a rain shower. By now I had had far too much to drink and Darrell and I went into the bar to watch a show. It started off tame enough, with the usual drag queen and cabaret show, and then things got a little kinky, shall we say.

Ten men entered the stage with very little on, each with a number, and we were asked what our favourite number was. Being totally drunk by this point, we played along and ended up chatting and talking with number 24 (My favourite number by the way) for most of the night; all well and good, but with English not his native language, it became a very expensive night buying drinks. Everyone understands the language of alcohol, and things became a bit blurry thereafter. I do, however, remember a rather raunchy live show on stage, which nearly made my eyes pop out of my head and thought it was probably a good time to leave, before I spent every penny I had.

I don't even remember getting home, just the hangover this morning, which was one of the worst I have ever had. Oh, I've said the usual, 'I'm never drinking again' stuff, but actually I really enjoyed the night, even if it did cost me eight thousand Thai Baht, which is about two hundred quid. My venture into gay Bangkok life is well and truly over, and it is unlike anything I have ever seen, or likely to see again. It was the oddest end to an otherwise relaxing, cultured day, rather different to the cat café, but I wouldn't change it for the World.

If you come to Thailand, you must visit Silom 4 Alley, it really is a great place to see and dip into, but certainly not a district I could find myself going to too often. At 51 years old I am knackered now after just one day, imagine me after a week, I'd probably be in my box!

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From London to Patpong

16/9/2022

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After a delicious breakfast at Premier Inn, Darrell and I made our way to terminal two of Heathrow Airport. It was quite fitting, on our last day in the UK, that we used the new Elizabeth Line to get us there. The new trains are lovely, but the waiting times between each one is terrible, and we had to sit twiddling our thumbs for over half an hour. Nevertheless, the journey between terminals was free and quick, so I couldn't really complain.

The saddest part of my brief stay in Britain has been the references to Her Majesty, the late Queen, wherever you look. Heathrow, like the rest of the country, is in mourning and the respect shown to Elizabeth II is truly heart-warming. In a way it just didn't seem real being back home, the country really does have a different feel to it after her death, and I had only been away for twelve days.

I watched as tourists gazed deeply at the banners of Elizabeth R, decorating the airport; each person taking a moment to reflect and remember the symbolism she represented. As I walked past them, in the growing queues in the terminal, I was struck by their conversations, about how much the late Queen meant to them. How can it be, that a woman they had never met, had such an impact on their and indeed my life? This was a lady known the World over, and she was a constant in all our lives, and already everything feels very disjointed and inconsistent!

This was not a trip I was looking forward to; I really do hate flying long haul. Having flown to Thailand once before, I know just how gruelling it is. It is eleven and a half hours of pure hell, and if I could have avoided it, I would.

We were waiting in the terminal far longer than usual. Having checked out of the Premier Inn at twelve, midday, we had a long wait until our flight at 9.30pm. Still, we made the most of it and done several laps of the terminal, drank copious amounts of beer and ate expensive airport food, which isn't doing any good for my waistline. When the time came for us to bid farewell to the UK once again, despite my fear of flying, I was glad to be gone. There is nothing worse than having to wait all day for a flight, that you bloody well hate having to do in the first place!

The experience was much as I expected, similar to the last time I flew to Thailand, in 2019, where I caught a connecting flight to Vietnam. This time we are going to be spending eleven days in Bangkok, experiencing this city in its full uncut glory.

I just sat and relaxed for most of the journey, preferring not to watch the movies. I can't watch anything when I am in the air, as I am more concerned about the bumps and turbulence. Each and every jolt sends me into a panic inside, and I count every second as my last - yes, really, I am that bad.

For the most part, the flight was pretty smooth. There was however a lot of turbulence as we flew over The Bay of Bengal, which the pilot did warn us about just before we left. Normally I am just nervous at this point, but the movement was so bad I actually felt physically sick to my stomach. After looking at the map of our flight progress, I did notice that the plane had climbed higher, probably to avoid the worst of the strong winds that were battering the aeroplane.

Twenty minutes later, and the jostling was over, just an hour and a half before we were due to land. The crew then quickly brought the delayed breakfast for the passengers, before we touched down at Suvarnabhumi Airport. All of those on board were fantastic. Several crew noticed I wasn't enjoying the ride and did their best to make me feel comfortable, who could ask for more; Thai Airways was a joy as ever!

Suvarnabhumi Airport is vast, bigger than any other airport I have been to before. Security is tight here as you would expect, and as I went through customs, I had to have my fingerprints taken, as well as a facial photo and warned in no uncertain terms when I had to leave. An hour and a half later, I was in the baggage hall with Darrell waiting for our cases, which took another hour to arrive. By the end I was shattered, made even worse when the driver I had employed to take us to the hotel disappeared, leaving the note with my name on behind and a rather confused colleague to explain his absence.

Outside, we waited for his car to turn up; this was one busy airport. A group of people walked past in hazmat suits, which was rather concerning for me, especially after we were given health cards, warning us of the dangers of Monkeypox, which seems to be rife here at the moment. Most people were wearing masks of some sort, which was reassuring, but I just remember thinking to myself how different the World is now, after the pandemic. Scenes like I witnessed today would have been unthinkable a few years ago; this is a new era, so far removed from the last.

Finally, the driver arrived, and we were taken to Patpong in Bangkok, where our hotel The Siam Heritage is based. It was approaching half past five when we left, and the Bangkok rush hour traffic was unbelievable. It took a further one and a half hours to get from one side of the city to the other, and I was totally exhausted when I arrived, looking forward to a relaxing evening and a few well-earned beers!

The Siam Heritage Hotel is characterful, distinctive and full of old world charm, and not what I expected at all. Dark wooden panelling adorns the walls and there is a large mahogany desk in the corner of our room, it really does feel like staying in a historic building; it even has that unmistakable musky smell. There is also a small kitchenette, if we want to cook and the luxury of a television, which sadly has no English channels at all. From first impressions, I don't think many English-speaking tourists stay here, but it has been well worth it so far, but this is only day one!

Having unpacked our bags, we popped out for a bite to eat, stumbling across a restaurant near to our hotel. It wasn't until I sat down and ordered, that I realised it was a Cannabis café, yes cannabis! I have been reliably informed it is now legally sold here in Thailand. As we tucked in to a beautifully cooked Thai meal, we were also given a brochure on the different types of cannabis they sold, at a very reasonable five pounds a time, I hasten to add. We politely declined the offer, however, preferring a beer and a coherent look around the area.

Just around the corner from the restaurant, we came across what I can only describe as a 'gay area.' there were scantly clan gentlemen, draped over tables waiting for clients. There were others, with a few more clothes on, stood outside a bar called 'Fresh Boys' and more drinking in 'The Pink Panther,' and 'Sweet Cheeks.' Glancing over my shoulder, I saw other venues equally suggestive, as the last.... I had a feeling we weren't in Kansas any more, Dorothy. It seems that Darrell and I had unwittingly booked a hotel in the red-light district of Bangkok; I have never seen anything like it, and I'm by no means a prude. Still, it will make for an interesting few days, especially as we were both propositioned by several groups of ladies as we walked back to our hotel, who were in various stages of undress along the road.

As first impressions go, they are mixed. I am absolutely in awe of this place so far and with lots to do during our stay, I will reserve judgement for now. We are both going out on the town tomorrow evening, so God knows what will happen, but for now, it's an early night and a mug of cocoa; Saturday is another day!

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Back Home To A Country In Mourning!

15/9/2022

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Yesterday, we bid an emotional farewell to Marin and Vlatka, as we made our way back to London. We had a wonderful stay in Croatia, but it was time to say goodbye and start on the next leg of our journey. I was up at an unearthly 2.30 am; Marin had to take us to Split Airport before he started work. Luckily, the roads were clear, and we arrived within an hour. I have to admit I felt rather emotional saying au revoir to Marin, especially not knowing when we will be returning again. Nevertheless, it was time to go and begin this new chapter in our life. Travel keeps our blood pumping strong and no matter how much I hate flying, I understand it is a necessary evil to live the life we lead.

The flight to London was a little more turbulent than usual and the plane felt quite unstable at times, although I'm sure it wasn't. With Darrell lost in music, a gentleman over the other side of the isle, looking as terrified as me, kept my spirits up. Our grimacing faces turned to laughter on occasion, as the plane rocked up and down, side to side. As the turbulence subsided and the seatbelt sign was turned off, we just looked at each other, patting one another on the back; we were happy to be alive!

Arriving in Britain felt strange, this was a country in mourning, and it could be seen wherever you looked. I was supposed to meet my dear friend John and travel to central London to lay flowers for the late Queen, but circumstances conspired to put a halt to that. Darrell was delayed through customs, as he always is. His Australian passport has always been a source of angst, especially with such a lot of movement in and out of the UK. He was asked to produce his Identification card, to clear up confusion with his rights to remain here, which cleared up any ambiguity, and he was allowed to pass through the boarder finally, later than we planned.

After frantic communication with John, we both decided he should lay flowers from both of us, since I had no time to get to Westminster. He has bought some beautiful flowers for The Queen, and I was delighted when he sent me the photo's. John and I have always been Royalists and have had many heartfelt conversations about them over the years. I am disappointed I can't see him before I leave, but I know it won't be too long before I see him again.

It took an hour to travel from Gatwick Airport to our hotel in Heathrow, and I have never been so happy to finally put my feet up. At 51, all this travelling is so much harder than it was when I was in my twenties, so the odd comfy hotel along the way is an absolute must. My years of backpacking are well and truly over.

You can never go wrong with Premier Inn and we both had a decent evening meal, even if it did take an hour to get to the table, and a lovely breakfast this morning. The best reason to stay at a Premier Inn, mind you, is because of the decent night's sleep you get. I slept like a baby, and God knows I needed it.

Later today, we fly to Bangkok in Thailand on an eleven-hour flight. This is not my most favourite part of the journey and after yesterday's turbulent flight from Split, I am more nervous than ever. Once the flying is out of the way, I am looking forward to an eventful adventure is this beautiful Asian country, that I have never visited before. Until our arrival, I will be signing off for now, but hope to blog as often as I can when I arrive. Goodbye Britain, it's been brief, but very emotional!

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Our Final Day in Hrvatska!

13/9/2022

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With Darrell suffering from a hangover, I went out for a brief walk myself in the morning. This was our final full day in Croatia, but I wanted a brief hour or two to myself. Wearing my Portsmouth Walking Football Club T Shirt, emblazened with its then sponsor 'Mary's Snack Wagon,' I strolled through the beautiful cemetary at the end of the road where we awere staying. Mary, just happens to be a friend from Pompey who I used to work with and she gave me the blue strip as a present, so with all my other clothes in the wash, this was my attire for the day!

Darrell and I did very little on Tuesday; we spent the day with our Cousin Vlatka, helping her tidy, do some washing for our trip to Thailand and chat about her imminent birth of twins. This is always the part of a holiday I hate, leaving somewhere I have stayed and enjoyed. We have both discussed returning to see family when we can, but with no firm plans over the next year, we just can't point a finger at when. The last time we travelled to see them was in 2014, a long time ago and both Darrell and I agree, it shouldn't be left so long next time,

Marin and Vlatka are good people who have been thoughtful and welcomming towards us both, as they have every year we have been since 2008. Their two children are an absolute delight, with the eldest Bartul, who is now 14, conversing with us in perfect English. I have always been astounded how dedicated, educated and polite European children our, compared with the UK and it really has been a delight to have been a part of the family, even if it was for the briefest time. In the future, both Darrell and I would like to see all of our Croatian family more than we have, that does of course depend very much on just where our travelling takes us. For now we are just content to have seen them all at the beginning of our lifestyle break.

With our cases packed, I was in bed by 8 pm, ready for a 2.30 am alarm call tomorrow. As my head hit the pillow I must have falled straight asleep. Croatia is a place a love and a home in Europe we can always return to again and again. Without the connection and bonds we have formed, our lives would have been all the poorer. This was a vacation for us of course, but it was more than that, a link to Darrell's family and memories to cherish for the rest of our life. Until we all meet again, our love for Marin, Vlatka and the children will only grow stronger. The love and affection all of us share are everlasting, enduring and steadfast in this ever changing World!

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