Categoría: Thailand 2022

Year in Review 2022!

27/12/2022

Wow, what a year it has been for both me and Darrell. So much has happened in such a small space of time, I just don't know where to begin. I suppose I should start at the beginning - Darrell had been back in the UK for just a few short months and both of us were planning a future together in Portsmouth, in the aftermath of a pandemic that had conspired to keep us apart for nearly two years.

We were pretty happy and sorted at the beginning of 2022. Both of us were working in jobs we loved and were discussing the possibility of buying a home together for the first time in many years. The pandemic had been kind to us at least, and we had saved up a substantial amount of money for a deposit, but it just wasn't enough for somewhere big enough for our needs. To be honest, when I look back, I don't think either of us really wanted to live in a pokey one-bedroom flat, in a city we just couldn't call our own. I'm not sure if that sounds completely right, but what I am trying to say is, it never really felt like home. It didn't have the memories needed to form an emotional attachment. Although I had some strong friendships, keeping that connection alive, ultimately it wasn't enough to keep us in this famous naval city, on the south coast of England.

Darrell was working hard at Cancer Research in a job he loved. His boss and my friend Zerina was instrumental in keeping us both in Portsmouth for as long as we were there. She is one of my closest and dearest friends and a lady I hold in the highest regard. She has helped both me and Darrell out more times than I care to remember. Her advice has been invaluable, and she was a huge presence in both our lives. I don't think I have ever seen Darrell so happy in his work, as he was there, and he really put his heart and soul into a position he loved. Back then, I was sure we would stay in Portsmouth for the rest of our days.

Equally, I was thoroughly enjoying my position at Tesco, as I had done since I started there in 2018. In many ways, I had become part of the furniture and had settled into my role with ease. For the first time in many years, I had formed close friendships with some truly remarkable characters. These were the lifeline that kept me going when Darrell was away, and they held me together, while living a rather frugal existence in Portsmouth.

My colleagues on the Customer Service desk where I worked were such a close-knit group, it was always going to be a wrench leaving them behind under any circumstances, let alone what transpired later in the year. Together with my closest friend Jules, this was the World I wanted to keep, grasp tightly and not want to let go!

Jules was normally the first person I saw every morning, forever smiling, consistently welcoming and invariably so full of life. We talked about everything and anything, and he is the nearest to the Brother I have never really had. Our bond grew especially close during my last year in the UK, and I really don't think I would have survived those final days in Portsmouth without him. He was a shoulder to cry on, an encyclopedia of advice and always, just always that little bit 'extra gay'. Every morning we saw one another, we would always have the biggest bear hug and make sure to end our morning natter before work by saying those immortal words 'be extra gay today,' as we did every day, bringing a little bit of sunshine into an otherwise drab, dull world.

Of course nothing was quite as it seemed and although my work life was the best it had ever been, things at home were not working out. I had lived with my Aunt for four years and thoroughly enjoyed my time there. She was, in all but name, Mum, especially after my Mother died in 2019. My Aunt, Darrell and I all got on well in the same house, and it was an arrangement that worked perfectly for the most part. I suppose I became complacent and took our living situation for granted, believing things would carry on very much in the same vein, even when the danger signs were there.

Her son and my Cousin moved back into the family home in the middle of the year and despite a rocky start, things worked fine. I have always had a close bond with my Cousin, and in many respects he reminds me of myself. I'm not saying everything was a bed of roses, but we all learned to live under the same roof amicably and life continued as it had done before. Darrell and I did keep ourselves to ourselves a lot more, but I believe deep down we already knew it was time to leave.

Things came to a head after an uncalled-for family intervention. This was an unnecessary interference into what was essentially a personal matter, problems that just needed to be ironed out and boundaries set. As is the case in many families, talking seems to take a back seat, as situations spiral out of control, everyone burying their head in the sand, hoping issues will just go away. Both Darrell and I are as guilty of that as anyone. Sometimes it takes an argument to brings things to the fore and make us realise there is more to life.

My Cousin Rachel is one of the most honest up front people you will ever meet and despite a rather heated exchange of views, both Darrell and I were glad things were said as they were. This was a row that all three of us would have sorted out, no matter what the outcome, and we just expected things to return to normal. Like best laid plans of mice and men, it didn't work out that way, and an unwarranted text from someone who had not even witnessed the argument, suggesting Darrell and I should consider our position in Portsmouth, finally put the nail in the coffin.

We both decided, after receiving the text, that it was time to go. When people start digging the knife in, without a thought for no one but themselves, let alone two people who had done nothing but help, we knew our time was up. For our own sanity and peace of mind, we had to leave. There was no point staying somewhere where neither of us were wanted. This was a sad ending to our time in Portsmouth, but it also gave us an insight into what some people are really like. When a leopard finally shows its spots and the abuse starts flowing, it is time to head for the hills and not look back.

I will forever be thankful to my Aunt for taking me in at a particularly difficult point in my life. I will also always love my Cousins Rachel and Joe and their respective extended families. However, when I look back, I suppose I was never really a part of their lives anyway; I lived very much on the side lines, and both Darrell and I were quite happy to go back to 'us against the World,' and avoid family ties altogether - it's how we work best.

Initially we just walked away from a situation that had become toxic, but after a chat with my Aunt we returned to see if we could repair the damage that had been done. Despite getting closer to my Cousin Joe, spending a memorable last few months with him, we just couldn't see a future in that house with my family, and we decided to return to Australia and give this place one last chance. This was not an easy decision to make, but as I watched the decline of Britain on the news, and my own personal issues bubbling away, the warning signs were there; I knew it was something we had to do.

I spoke to my employer, who was amazing and fully supported my decision to take a 'lifestyle break' for a year, leaving the option to return to my job on the table, should everything fail down under. I couldn't thank my Manager Sammy enough for all she did for me at that time. Without her, I would have just walked out of Tesco and been left high and dry in the worst of circumstances. Her advice and help ensured a smooth transition to a new life in Australia.

The last month in Britain was a double-edged sword. This was a time I cemented friendships in a way I hadn't before. I had so many leaving parties, I lost count of the number of times I said goodbye, but these were people who wanted to give us a memorable send-off and show just how much they cared. I was on an emotional rollercoaster, and many tears flowed over the weeks before we left. Many of those who waved us on our way have kept in contact and continue to wish us well. All of them made our departure that much harder, and there were times I really thought about staying, but pulled myself back from the brink and continued to strive for a better future in Perth.

The hardest person to leave behind was Jules, tears really did flow on my final day. After all the planning, arranging of flights, hotels and travel, nothing can prepare you for actually saying goodbye to someone close, akin to family. Jules will always be in my life, I will make sure of that. I video call him when I can and message him often. My life is a little darker without him in it, and I wish things had turned out differently and our friendship could have grown into something even more special than it already is. It wasn't meant to be, and I will keep the flame of friendship burning bright from the other side of the World. There will always be a special place in my heart for the best friend who kept me going in the worst of times; of course I will always have regrets, but I also have to look forwards to the future.

We left Portsmouth on a rainy Saturday morning, after a series of emotional farewells. On that final day, Zerina turned up on the door step, just so she could wave us off. She did what others didn't, people who should have been there, and for that she will, like Jules, remain a friend for life. She also continues to phone, message and video call; as Darrell said to me, just the other day, she would have been his reason to stay. Zerina, along with Jules and my dear friend John, were the family we should have had, the people who truly loved us, and we loved back. You certainly can't choose your family, but you can evidently give it a damn good try!

Sitting at the airport, waiting for our first flight to Croatia, I was able to reflect on my time in the UK. I had, and still have, a feeling I won't be back any time soon, definitely not to live again, and it was time to let go of the past. At great milestones in my life, I have always thought about the 'what if's' and 'buts.' Our almost knee-jerk reaction to up and leave, had brought home the nature of what we were doing, we were leaving Britain for good, saying farewell to friends for the last time, but happy to leave the crap behind. In a few hours we would be with loving family in Croatia, with people who we cared for deeply, far away from the pain we were leaving behind.

Our trip to Australia was always about saying au revoir. With the UK becoming a distant memory, it was now time to connect with our Croatian Cousins before continuing on to Thailand. Marin and Vlatka had been in our lives since 2008, when Darrell went to Croatia to see family for the first time. We continued to go there year after year, and had many special memories to take with us on our journey home to Oz.

It had been a few years since we last saw them, and we hugged just like it was yesterday. Spending ten days with them at their home in Makarska was a joy and made us realise what family was all about. We had had such a torrid time before we left, we forgot that there were people who actually loved us and within a few short hours of arriving, we were comfortably at home, looked after by people who only had our best interests at heart.

Spending two weeks in Croatia was just what we both needed. We spent time visiting the Dalmatian Coast, relaxing in one of the many cafés and bars along the Makarska Riviera, gazing at the icy blue sea and just enjoying the peace and quiet. Vlatka and Marin prepared home cooked meals, and we sat talking to the early hours, catching up on family life in this beautiful Dalmatian town. I always feel like I am home when I am in Croatia, and this trip was no exception. This is a family like no other and the love they show is certainly unparalleled in my life; leaving is always the hardest part

Sitting outside a bar in Makarska, drinking a pint of Karlovacko, I heard murmurs from the tourists walking along the promenade. It had become apparent that HM Queen Elizabeth had died back home in Scotland. This amazing lady, the best public servant the UK has ever known, had quietly passed away, leaving a great gaping hole in all our lives.

My respect for the Queen goes back to my childhood, she is the only Monarch I have ever known. I became emotional, as I would if it had been a member of my own family. The Queen was the constant in my life, and she was now no longer there; words can not describe how upset I was.

I suppose in a way, it was quite poignant that she passed away as we were leaving the UK for a new life down under. An era was well and truly coming to an end, and her passing just reinforced the decision I made to leave. I was at least able to toast her passing, and made a promise to myself to watch the funeral from Thailand on the next leg of my journey.

Leaving Croatia was a wrench, as it always has been, but the time we spent with family was invaluable. We promised not to leave it so long in future and both of us know our family ties are always a reason to return to Europe, as we will do as soon as we are able.

Flying back into London to catch our flight to Bangkok was a rather surreal experience. The death of The Queen was palpable. Walking through the terminal after our arrival, there were TV screens and poster boards everywhere highlighting Her Majesties 70 years on the throne. I had returned to a country in mourning and a very different Kingdom. There was a quiet calmness about the place, as people reflected on just what Elizabeth II meant to them, deep in thought, glazed expression and respectful repose.

I would have loved to have laid flowers in her honour, but with our connecting flight less than 24 hours away, I was lucky enough to have a friend do it for me. Little John was heading to London that day, I was supposed to meet him, but with delays, it had become impossible, and he put a bouquet down in green park from him and me; a gesture I will never forget. This is what friends are for, and that's what made leaving Britain so hard.

Our two weeks in Bangkok were amazing, more than what we both expected. This was a city we both fell madly in love with, and a place we want to return to as soon as we are able. Bangkok is where modernity meets traditional Asian culture, sitting side by side, down every street, around every corner. There was so much to do and see, that we couldn't have possibly fit in everything we wanted to do. From the BTS Sky Train, Statue of The Golden Buddha and the many Royal Palaces, we weren't disappointed!

We spent the first part of our trip in the notorious Patpong district of the city, and this colourful area really did live up to its reputation. Patpong was an eye-opener in every respect, and we enjoyed some rather fun fuelled nights in the bars and restaurants down Silom Soi 4, where all the gay venues were situated. This rather hedonistic introduction to Bangkok, left us aghast on more than one occasion, but I am certainly glad we ventured into the dark depths of the city, even for just a short while.

Here I was able to see The late Queen Elizabeth's funeral on my laptop. Sat in The Siam Heritage Hotel, surrounded by oriental splendour, I was able to pay my respects to Her late Majesty and remember with fondness, her legacy and significance for me. It did feel strange being away from the UK at this time, but then this was just the beginning of our new life and as I watched from afar, the penny finally dropped; in all probability we will never live in Britain again. Our life was firmly on track towards our new home in Australia.

From Patpong and the Siam Heritage, we travelled across the city to Samsen Road, one of the oldest parts of the city. Here we settled into our luxurious hotel, where we enjoyed a more relaxing time. Close to all the major historical sites, we spent our time exploring this stunning part of Bangkok, visiting everything we could.

Darrell and I had firmly removed Britain from our thoughts, preferring to concentrate on the future. Travelling has always helped us forget some of the more difficult periods of our life, and this European/Asian adventure was the tonic we both needed. After several months of hell, we were now able to sit back and enjoy our favourite part of the World, free from pressure and stress, doom and gloom.

Surrounded by the beauty Bangkok offers, we immersed ourselves in the culture of a country that was so far removed from our own, yet strangely felt familiar and homely. This was a place where we both felt at ease, reassured and untroubled.

Opposite The Nuovo City Hotel, where we stayed, sat a small family run restaurant, 'So Samsen.' This became our go-to place and every evening we would go there for dinner. The food was exquisite, cooked by hostess Aom and her colleagues. Aom's credentials were impeccable, having helped set up a Michelin Star restaurant here in Perth, Western Australia, and at a reasonable price, we were able to taste the best of Thai food at a fraction of the price.

The ambiance was perfect; after each meal we sat looking out across the street where we were based, just chatting about the future, stroking the resident cat and soaking in the atmosphere. The girls, at So Samsen, would often sit and speak with us, adding to the friendly 'family' vibe. Both Darrell and I needed 'So Samsen' at that point in our journey, it reminded us, that there were good people out there, and a whole World to explore. I have never felt so secure somewhere in my life, and I know we were both reluctant to leave this pretty little restaurant behind. Its significance will remain a part of us always, as we continue our travels across the World.

.... and so to Australia where we are today, preparing, hopefully, for the rest of our life together. This has unsurprisingly been the hardest part of our journey. When I left the UK five months ago, I never believed my life would be where it is today. Back then I thought I would get somewhere to live pretty quickly, settle down and continue doing the same job I did in the UK. However, nothing ever turns out the way you want it to. Australia has changed out of all proportion since I was last here in 1997 and the differences are clear to see.

Back in the late 90s, finding somewhere to live was easy, today nothing but. After the worldwide pandemic, property is few and far between, and we are still, after three months, living was Darrell's Mother. This has of course made life very difficult, and we are continuing to battle very much as we did in the UK. This is the worst part of life here in Perth; everything else, however, seems on the surface at least, to be going in our favour.

My application to remain in Australia is in and in a couple of days, on the 28th December, I will finally be 'legally illegal.' My 'Bridging Visa A' will be activated, and I can live and work here unhindered. So far so good, but one has to remember this is only a temporary visa, before my final Spouse or Permanent Resident Visa is issued at some point in the future. Nevertheless, all the fees and solicitor costs are now paid, and it is now a waiting game, to see if I am accepted or not.

I completed my medical assessment several weeks ago and this will either give me the green light to stay, or signal our departure towards pastures new yet again. The results I have received back so far are good, but the major one isn't back yet. As part of the process I had to undergo a chest X-ray and as an ex smoker for the last thirty years, I am hoping nothing too major is flagged up, but only time will tell if that is the case. Everything else is perfect and good to go, I just hope this final hurdle is crossed without too much difficulty.

I have also got a job, one of the first I applied for, and will be starting as a Senior Manager for a large corporation just ten minutes from where I live now. The pay is double what I was earning in Britain, and it looks like this could be the job that secures my future in Australia.

Also on a positive note, we should now be able to buy a property early in the new year. We have both built up substantial savings and with a dual income, we have been told we can borrow up to $500,000. This will allow us to finally have a place of our own, not waste money on rent, and finally, after 27 years together, settle into Australian life.

The decision to leave The UK was always about taking a chance at a new life and as reluctant as I have been in the past, I am glad I threw caution to the wind and grasped the opportunity with both hands. I suppose the last few months in Britain showed me I had nothing to stay for, except the few friends I had made, and of course my Father. These important people will always be in my life wherever I am, here in Australia or in the UK, they will always have a pivotal role to play.

At 51 years old, I am glad to have made a decision to restart and reboot my life and hope everything turns out for the best. Both of us are travellers at heart, so in the worst case scenario, we will just continue what we enjoy doing most and take off on another impromptu expedition, looking out for another place to settle. We only get one chance in this World, and as my Father said to me recently, before I left, I have to make the most of my time and go where my heart desires. Whether this is my final destination or not, is irrelevant, the fact is, we are doing what we love; the hope is of course that the outcome is favourable, and we can finally leave the past behind!

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Clayborne in Bangkok!

1/10/2022

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So Sad To Leave Bangkok!

27/9/2022

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I think I can speak for both of us when I say how sad we were to leave Pranakorn on Monday. We weren't leaving Bangkok quite yet, so had booked a decidedly expensive hotel at the Airport, for our final night in Thailand. Both of us had thoroughly enjoyed our stay at the luxury Nuovo City Hotel, despite making an initial error with the booking.

The Nuovo City Hotel caters predominantly for the Islamic market, not that that was a problem. The only difficulty we had was the ban on alcohol consumption in the hotel, otherwise it was a wonderful place to stay.

On the plus side, they were a very inclusive venue that looked after both of us perfectly. The facilities were excellent, the breakfast was top-notch and the service impeccable; I can not fault this beautiful hotel at all. As we made our way to the car they had arranged for us, I thanked all the staff on the desk and they in turn wished us well. If you are ever in Thailand, I can highly recommend this place and the local neighbourhood is extremely friendly and warm.

It took about forty-five minutes to reach the airport, a lot quicker than the two hours it had taken driving in. We were dropped at the door of the stunning Novotel on the airport complex, which was vast. It had every facility you could imagine, including bars, restaurants, shops, food halls and an ice cream parlour. The huge atrium was covered, protecting us from the elements, and the rooms the most luxurious yet. Sadly, we would only be staying for one night, but we certainly made use of the pub and restaurant, where the food was lovely!

After a nice long bath, my first since leaving London on 16 September, I was able to have some much-needed quiet time, while Darrell went for a swim. These past three weeks have been the longest we have spent together in years, so we have naturally argued a bit during this adventure. To be honest, both Darrell and I have needed the time together, good and bad. It has been a terribly stressful time in any case. Travelling for weeks on end does take its toll, especially after all the upheaval we both went through before our departure.

Luckily, throughout our time away we have kept in touch with friends back home, phoning them on a regular basis, and they have been nothing but supportive, following our journey from across the World. Many have commented on how well we are looking, and I guess Bangkok has done us both the World of good, which is why we were so sad to leave. Nevertheless, we will always have fond memories of our time in Patpong and Pranakorn and look back, with a cheeky smile, at the exploits we had. Bangkok gave us the time we needed as a couple to get to know one another again; doing what we love most has given us a reason to live and a determination to succeed in our future endeavours.

Our trip to Bangkok will be an enduring memory after a fractious time in the UK. The twelve days we spent there, allowed us to forget the difficulties we experienced and cement our determination to forge a new life overseas. There will be much I miss about Britain, but those links will always be there; I am British first and foremost, and my home will always be in Europe. Leaving Thailand behind means the start of something new, untested, untried and a chance to fulfil dreams we had long since forgotten. As I look back on our twelve days in Bangkok, I am satisfied, we made the right choice to leave the UK and start building a new future away from the struggles of the past and I look forward to continuing a journey we began in 1995!

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Farewell to 'So Samsen!'

25/9/2022

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Walking around the streets on a Sunday morning, on our final day in Bangkok, I was philosophical about our future, thinking about what happens next, as we both embark on our new future together in Australia. This is the next leg of our lifestyle break, but it could also be the key to our future. Bangkok has given us a valuable holiday before we knuckle down and rebuild our life together, and it has also given us an insight into life in Asia that we wouldn't otherwise have seen. It is also a period we have thoroughly enjoyed and would love to dip in and out of again periodically.

The streets were relatively quiet, rather like they are on a Sunday in the UK, and it was relaxing, just strolling around enjoying the colourful scenery, listening to the sounds of this wonderful city and being together as a couple once again, in a place we both love. Only six hours away from Perth, Western Australia, it is nice to know we can come back whenever we want.

Of course, if there is one reason to return, it's to visit Aom, Hui and Hong at 'So Samsen,' a restaurant we visited every day whilst staying in Pranakorn. The three ladies who work there have been a valuable lifeline for us, as we left our family behind in the UK. 'So Samsen' really has been the home from home that we both needed after such a terrible few months before we departed the UK.

Once again, Darrell and I sat in our favourite spot overlooking the street. The cat, fed by the staff at 'So Samsen,' looking plumper than ever, laid down beside us, as she has done every time we have been there, making us feel even more relaxed than ever. Part of the reason for our return to this small restaurant is the cat, who has really played a surrogate role in the interim, while we are without our beloved felines. As she nuzzled around our legs, waiting for the next piece of food to be thrown to her, the heavens once again opened up and the rain came down.

Unlike the UK, I absolutely love the rain in Thailand, it's warm and welcoming after the heat of the day. The thunder and lightening, which can be animated and severe, just adds to the strange nature of this place. This country isn't like anything I have experienced before, just like the staff at 'So Samsen;' you just wouldn't get this kind of service and one to one contact with people, who were genuinely happy to see us, in Britain or indeed anywhere else.

As it was our last night in Bangkok, we spent more time than usual sat in the bar after another delicious meal. This was proper home cooked fare, not like the food you get in a comparable Thai establishment in the UK. The different tastes and aromas are wonderfully aromatic and really do leave a lasting impression; so much so, I would return to the Nuovo hotel, just to be able to visit 'So Samsen' again.

As we left, we gave each of the staff a big hug. Now I know it isn't the correct thing to do, in this COVID era, but it seemed right at the time. These are people who work hard every day, harder than any of us work - cooking, serving and making our holiday more memorable. We have assured them we will return when we are able, and look forward to seeing them all in the future. This little restaurant in the heart of Bangkok made us truly believe in people again, especially after being treated so badly in the past. It would be lovely if more people were as genuine as them, but for now we will settle for the care they showed us, when we needed it most!

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Bangkok City - Life in the Sky!

24/9/2022

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Street Life in Bangkok

Yesterday we went for a last visit to the city centre and shopping district of Bangkok. We took the boat from the hotel in Pranakorn, to the end of the line in Sathorn. From here we jumped straight on the BTS Sky Train and travelled to Siam Square and the main shopping district. Up until yesterday we have only really observed the city from afar, so taking the opportunity to really look at the workings of this metropolis, home to 11 million people, gave us a fascinating insight into Bangkok life.

The most interesting part of Bangkok, for me at least, is life above the streets, connecting one area to another. A whole new world has built up around the BTS monorail industrial style architecture; market traders, vendors, food stalls, in fact everything you find at ground level has moved upwards into the city in the sky. There are more people on the walkways that criss-cross Bangkok, down the middle of every highway, than there are at street level. At first, it does feel rather alien to a visitor like me, but when you realise the importance of this public transport system, it is easy to see why it has grown exponentially!

Above all, the covered walk ways that connect stations and businesses, create welcome shelter from the severe temperatures that engulf this city every day. It is markedly cooler along the busy above ground thoroughfares, than it is down below, and for that reason it works well. On the downside, it doesn't look particularly pleasing to the eye; huge swathes of concrete rail lines and over passes brutally carving a path through the city. Nevertheless, it is an essential part of Bangkok life, that keeps this city ticking along at an almost manic pace.

The one thing you notice on all Asian streets, whichever city you are in, across the continent, is the small shrines, dedicated to Buddhism and other Asian religions. These beautiful pieces of art, in their own right, not only look spectacular, but they also serve a purpose. Dedicated followers of faith come daily and leave offerings and garlands of colourful flowers. I don't pretend to know anything about any of the religions here in Thailand, but it is comforting looking in at these people, making a prayer in the middle of a large modern city. Tradition and modernity seem to sit side by side happily; British people could learn a lot from this harmonious relationship between the earthly and spiritual, for no other reason than a respect for one another in a fragmented world. These shrines bring people together in a way nothing else does, and it is an amazing spectacle to be a part of.

HM The late Queen Elizabeth II

It was lovely to see the city of Bangkok paying its own tribute to HM The late Queen Elizabeth as well. This is the first acclamation of its kind that I have seen, although I believe some of the larger towers are projecting an image of The Queen onto their buildings also.

Wherever I have gone in Thailand, I am asked where I come from and as soon as I mention the UK, they offer me their condolences on the death of Her Majesty. It is easy to see why, since Their own Thai King and Royal Family are so respected and revered here. There are portraits of the King everywhere you look, and even shops that specifically sell photo's of members of the Royal Family. This was a bit of a culture shock for me, even with my Monarchist views, but I do find it particularly endearing and similar to the way the King of Cambodia is also loved, respected and looked up to, something I witnessed first hand when I stayed there in 2019.

The rain came early yesterday, while we were still in the city. The thunder and lightening was quite intense, but it certainly didn't dampen our spirit. The rain is so warm, that it helps the whole city cool down for a brief period of time and is a spectacle to behold. So much rain falls in such a short space of time, that the deluge causes blocked trains and flooding right across the centre. There are people specifically employed to clean up the water during the downpours, and they manage it pretty well.

Tuk Tuk

After the rain and a late lunch in Nandos, (OK I know it isn't Thai, but the rain really was belting it down, and it was the nearest place we could find) we decided to get a Tuk Tuk back to the hotel. I had been wanting to do this for a while, since I arrived, but was always weary, because of the almost predatory, menacing way the Tuk Tuk drivers chase you down the road, trying to persuade you to hire their cab. I am not a person who deals with this type of persistent, rude behaviour very well. Coming from Britain, we just don't see this type of thing, and it is a practice that is far too aggressive for me. However, we both bit the bullet and jumped in one of these rickety, old, dangerous and damn right scary things and got a ride back to our hotel in superfast time.

The trip back was intense, as the driver weaved in and out of heavy traffic at speed. We were thrown around in the back, trying to hold on for dear life; it was unlike anything I have ever experienced. In truth our driver was giving us the ride of our lives, making sure we were suitably disorientated, rather like being on a fairground ride, but like Darrell, I enjoyed every bit of it. By the time we arrived back at our hotel, through the colourful, noisy streets of Bangkok, our heads were spinning; both of us just couldn't stop laughing.

This will be a long-lasting, enduring memory of Bangkok and although it cost us far more than we should have paid, it was worth every penny. Paying 300 Thai Baht for the journey, around £7.00 was excessive apparently, but it didn't seem that expensive to me; still we will know better next time!

Night Out in Phranakorn

In the evening we had another wonderful meal at So Samsen; I chose Hang Gang-Le, which was a spicy pork stew. Our host, Aom, explained that she used to work in Australia and helped set up a Michellin star restaurant in Darrell's home city of Perth. This immediately explains why the food at So Samsen is so good. After a few drinks, we spent a lot of time talking with Aom and the other members of staff that work there. They have all been so friendly and welcoming, we have some wonderful memories to take with us on our journey!

The Thai White Spirit was a wonderful way to end the evening with Aom; yes it was punchy and stronger than anything I have tasted before, but it does help with the digestion, apparently. Personally, I just think it's a way of getting drunk quicker, and true to form it had the desired effect.

At 9pm, with left our favourite restaurant for a walk to sober up a little, but ended up stumbling into a rather lively district full of clubs and bars. I had an awful feeling the night wasn't going to end well, but by now I was so drunk I didn't care!

The rain was just beginning to fall as we sat down for a drink in a local bar, opposite one of the many massage parlours in Bangkok. These places are literally everywhere, around every corner, as common as hairdressers are in the UK. The bar was busy with lots of young revellers out for a good time. Having been drinking since 6.30 pm, I was feeling a little bit worse for wear myself and was quite happy to just sit, watch, listen to the live music and take in the sights and smells of this area in the backstreets of Bangkok, near Samsen Road.

Darrell and I don't really drink to excess any more, so on the rare occasions we do, we enjoy ourselves. Walking around the tiny backstreets was a bit frightening on occasion, nearly falling down open drains and the like, but once again it was all part of a journey I will remember fondly, warts and all. I love exploring new places, and there certainly is a lot to see in Phranakorn. I know Darrell and I would dearly love to come back here in time, especially to see Aom and the crew at So Samsen.

Whatever the future holds, we are leaving here on Monday morning, to travel to our final hotel before we fly to Perth. We have both had a fantastic twelve days in this wonderful city of contrasts and will miss the bonds we have formed. It is important to keep the memories burning bright as we say farewell to Thailand, because this is a country we have both fallen in love with. Darrell and I rarely agree on much, we are very different characters, but if we both like something well enough, chances are, we will be back, and I can't wait for the day we can be here together again enjoying the delights of Thailand in our own special way.

Farewell to Phranakorn

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Wat Saket, The Golden Mount & Wat Ratchanatdaram Worawihan

23/9/2022

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On Friday, we had a relatively quiet day. We didn't want to go out of the surrounding area too far and just decided to take a long walk, along the canal, and see where it took us. I made damn sure I had my large hat with me, since temperatures were expected to reach over 36 degrees and I didn't want to be any more burnt than I was already.

At the end of our canal walk, we came to the extremely busy Ratchadamnoen Klang Road, which we crossed over to take a look at the decidedly beautiful Wat Ratchanatdaram and the Royal Pavilion. As we began to take a look around, we were once again confronted by another tuk tuk driver wanting to sell us a ride. Of course, he never said that outright, but pretended to want to help us get our bearings. Darrell clocked on soon after, and we bolted in the other direction. There are a lot of scams involving these drivers, and we are well aware of how difficult they can be to get away from, but we did manage, after a long conversation about where we should go, to make our excuses and leave. We may well have not gone with him, but he did at least help us find our way around a bit better.

The Royal Pavilion was closed off to the public, as are a lot of the Wat's we have visited, but interestingly the Tuk Tuk driver explained, that when this is the case, it is because they can only be used by The King and members of the Royal Family. In effect, they have to be kept in an imminent state of readiness. It is easy to see why these places are preserved perfectly; they are so richly decorated and lovingly maintained, they are pieces of art in their own right. Hoards of tourists walking through, milling around and treading on the embossed surfaces, would soon destroy the elegance and conserved architectural integrity of these buildings.

Wat Ratchanatdaram Worawihan

Wat Saket, The Golden Mount

From the Royal Pavilion we walked the relatively short distance to The Golden Mount or Wat Saket. This was an unexpected stop for us, since we never really planned to go here at all. It cost 100 Baht (£2.00) each to go in and climb the stairs to the top of the mount, which is pretty reasonable, like all places of historical interest in Bangkok.

As we ascended the steps we were greeted with various statues of Buddha, tropical gardens, waterfalls and large bronze bells. Apparently if you ring these ornately decorated chimes you will get good luck. As someone who doesn't really understand any religion, let alone Buddhism, there does seem to be an element of luck involved in the process of worship. We are all looking for that small bit of good fortune that will help us in our lives, and religion, whilst not claiming to grant wishes, does give a feeling that whoever is looking down on us, will grant our desires, if we adhere to their way of thinking. I suppose it is a way of controlling the masses and giving them hope to cling on to each time they pay homage to Buddha, or anyone else they care to worship.

I was content to play along and rang the bells like everyone else, but unlike them, I have no expectations involved in my walk to the top of the mount. This was purely about the view from the top and the framed skyline that would appear as soon as my toes touched that final step. Yes, it was a stunning panorama; a 360 degree view of the city in all its full glory. Of course, Bangkok is far too big for you to see the whole thing, but you do get the gist of just how magnificent it is. As I looked down across the city, I could see the sun shining off the many Wats or temples that cover it. The golden covered structures, illuminated in the sunlight, stand out as beacons for the faithful and look like shining jewels across the urban landscape.

We must have taken a good hour looking at the view, pointing out areas of interest, places we had seen and landmarks we would like to visit. With the wind blowing through the open windows at the top, it was actually quite pleasant sat there, away from the heat. I must stress once again however, Bangkok is not the most beautiful city I have ever stayed in, but as Wat Saket shows, it does have some stunning places to visit, and they are so well looked after, by a dedicated and disciplined work force.

Street life in Bangkok is very different, mind you, and as we left the mount and made our way back to the hotel along the canal, I was reminded of just how unsanitary this city can be at times. If the colour of the canal isn't off-putting enough, the rubbish floating on its surface, rats running past your feet and smells that leave little to the imagination, only add to the third worldly feel. That is not to say, this makes it a less attractive place to visit, because I have actually grown to love this city more and more, each day I spend here. However, with only a few days left before we fly to Australia, I hope to make the most of the time I have left and relax just a little more, before our journey continues.

Trying to keep fit - UNSUCCESSFULLY

Back at the hotel, I spent a few minutes in the gym, trying to lose a few pounds. When I say a few minutes, I mean just that. I absolutely detest exercise, especially going to a gym, so this moment of madness soon wore off. I was completely shattered after ten minutes anyway and decided it was time we went to So Samsen for an evening meal instead, drinking even more beer than usual because of the humidity that just continues to rise.

As I sat down to a plate of Knom Jeen Nam-Ngeow, the heavens opened and the rain came tumbling down. The food was once again fantastic, as it always is. Our lovely hostess explained a little about the dish, which is essentially a spicy pork stew. It came with a large plate of accompaniments, including rice noodles, onion and chillies. I could add as much or as little to the dish as I wanted, bit by bit. In the end you eat it rather like a salad and the flavours were divine. This is real authentic Thai food and I just can't fault it in any way. The perfect way to end a fully packed day!

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The Six Temples of Ayutthaya on our 27th Anniversary!

23/9/2022

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Yesterday was mine and Darrell's 27th Anniversary and seven years since we were married in 2015; another milestone reached, as we continue to travel across the World. I had arranged a special excursion for this day, with Bangkok City Tours, and I wasn't disappointed. It was good to go somewhere different on our Anniversary, somewhere memorable and somewhere that has enriched both of our lives.

We were picked up by our tour guide Ta Wee Sin from our hotel at 7am; yes, it was an early start, but with my body clock still firmly on European time, it didn't bother me too much. The heavens had opened that morning and the rain was falling thick and fast. The roads were dark and drenched in water, and I had a terrible feeling Thursday would be a complete washout. Fearing the worst, but hoping for the best, I stayed positive, grabbing two umbrellas from the hotel as we went, just in case.

Darrell and I were the second two passengers, after our American friend from Texas, Osmin. Ta Wee Sin then drove to the next hotel where we picked up Sandrine and Charlotte, her daughter from France and finally a Brazilian couple; seven of us thrown together on a tour of world heritage site Ayutthaya and the six temples. At a cost of 1600 thb each, which is roughly £30.00, we set out on a full day journey to the most important Wats or temples in the park, where we would discover much about Thai history and a past littered with war and conflict. This was my kind of day rather than Darrell's, although he also thoroughly enjoyed the experience and like me was fascinated by a past unfolding before us.

I visited Angkor Wat in Cambodia in 2019, which was an experience like no other, so I was expecting much the same in Thailand, although the Wat's here are not as big. Nevertheless, they are equally impressive and steeped in historic significance. As someone who loves Buddhism and the symbolism behind it, I was amazed by Ayutthaya and just how primitive people could have constructed such a site; it truly was a marvel of the ancient World!

Bang Pa-In

Our first stop was the Summer Palace, Bang Pa-In. Compared with the temples, this was distinctly modern, with various styles of architecture on display. There were classical, European, Chinese and Thai, all sitting happily in extensive grounds, perfectly manicured, lovingly cared for and looked after.

After the deluge of the morning and an hour's drive North, the weather was sunny and hot once again, which although a relief, meant for another humid day. Darrell and I had twenty minutes to explore this complex, when we could have spent all day, but being on an organised tour, this is what you expect, in order to see as much as you can.

We were instructed to wear our face masks and with guards and soldiers everywhere, taking our temperature and making sure we were following the rules, we set off for a quick look around, and it was beautiful. In many respects you could say this was a folly, a park built by a King to satisfy his desire to experience different cultures in the privacy of his Summer Palace; but it had been clearly and precisely executed and looked perfect in every way. This was a lovely place to visit and should be a must for any tourist to see.

Wat Yai Chai Mongkhon - Great Monestry of Auspicious Victory!

This stunning Temple was left abandoned until the 1950s, after Ayutthaya fell to the Burmese in 1767. However, this was one of the best preserved Wat's on our tour. Today it is still used by the monks as a Monastery in part and of course a place to worship. Walking around, I was struck by how quiet and peaceful it was, even with all the tourists in tow.

There was plenty to see on our brief stay, and I was captivated by the many statues of Buddha dressed in golden cloth, so asked Ta Wee Sin, what the significance of this was. He explained it is a symbol of respect and that if we stroked the cloth and made a wish it would come true. Of course, I duly followed his lead and did so, not expecting too much in return.

Wat Yai Chai Mongkhon was a stunning place to visit. I liked the hundreds of Buddha's everywhere, it really did give it a safe feel for me. I am not religious, but if I was, Buddhism would be my first choice. Ta Wee Sin also explained his love of Buddhism; having worked as a tour guide for more than thirty-seven years and meeting so many lovely tourists, he wants to eventually spend the rest of his days studying Buddhism and devoting his life to a faith that is deep within his soul!

Wat Maha That

Wat Maha That is the oldest temple in Ayutthaya, built around 1380 and famous for Buddhas image trapped within a Bodhi Tree. This was another impressive Wat, interestingly built from brick and not stone as Angkor Wat was. This is probably why all of these temples are less well-preserved, but however, no less impressive.

Walking around the complex you get an idea of the vastness of these religious sites and as I set foot, where many feet have trod, I noticed imprints from those who have gone before. There was even graffiti from a bygone age, as intact as the monument it was written.

Most people visit this Wat for the Bodhi Tree and as Ta Wee Sin took our photograph, I felt deeply honoured to be there. This is indeed a special place for Thai people, but it is more than that, it is a part of all our history and an imprint of a tumultuous past that still has an impact on people today. This living history not only records the past in its walls, but it also teaches us lessons for the future.

Phra Buddha Sai Yat - The Reclining Buddha

This 400-year-old reclining Buddha is the fourth largest in Thailand, 43 meters long and 15 meters high. Built of cement and brick, it is probably one of the best preserved monuments we saw. The reason why it is in such good condition, is because it has been protected from the elements at various different points in its history.

We only had a very short time to connect with this Buddha, but it was relaxing, just sitting staring at this glorious statue and watching pilgrims light candles and burn incense sticks. Alone with my thoughts, I was able to say a prayer or two of my own.

The significance of the reclining Buddha, you may be interested to know, is to show that all beings have the potential to be awakened and released from the cycle of death and rebirth!

Viham - Shrine of Buddha's Image

This impressive structure was all but quiet when we arrived. There were Monks going about their business, and you could hear the noise of cockerels calling around the site. There are images of Buddha everywhere and in the centre, this tall, almost Romanesque monument, which Darrell climbed to the top of, looking down across the paddy fields and lakes filled with lily pads. According to Darrell, there was a shrine to Buddha inside.

As he left he banged his head on the small doorway, nearly knocking himself out, but despite his bruised head and loss of pride, he thoroughly enjoyed the climb. For me, well, it was nice just sat alone at the bottom gazing at the Thai countryside around me. This is why I have come to Thailand, this is what makes me want to live again!

Authentic Thai Lunch with New Friends

We had a beautiful Thai lunch in a traditional Thai restaurant, where all of us got to know one another over a few beers. Each of us there were travelling for different reasons, all from very different backgrounds and countries, but we all seemed to get on well enough, as we munched our way through some authentic home cooked cuisine.

It did feel a little unnerving sat next to a rather menacing looking river, with water pouring over the roof of the restaurant, but it was decidedly tropical in the countryside and a welcome break from the bright lights of Bangkok.

Wat Phra Si Sanphet

At the time of its destruction in 1767, Wat Phra Si Sanphet was the grandest and indeed the holiest of temples in the Ayutthaya Kingdom, and it is easy to see why. Despite being mostly ruins now, the large footprint of the Wat and the sheer number of buildings, looks on the surface at least to be unmatched. This was the most impressive temple we went to, and it seemed apt, it was our last stop of the day.

We wandered around with Osmin looking at this historic site and by the end of this tour, I think, rather like us, he was exhausted, having seen more temples than one could possibly want or need to see in a lifetime. By now the temperatures had surpassed 36 degrees, and we were literally burning, so we quickly left for the shade of a covered market, just near the entrance to the Wat. Still chatting with Osmin, who is travelling alone in Thailand, I was impressed by his sense of adventure, after all as far as I knew, most Texans had never left Texas, let alone travelled thousands of miles away to another country.

We had a lovely journey on the way back to the hotel, conversing with new-found friends, which is what travelling is all about. It felt like we were the new pioneers, having just entered Thailand when restrictions were lifted very recently, after the pandemic. There are still many barriers to tourism here at the moment, but most native Thai's were glad to see us, and continue to offer us a warm welcome wherever we travel.

Bangkok City Tours was a dream, and I was so glad we chose to go with them. Ta Wee Sin was a joy to listen to during our six temple tour and I would thoroughly recommend this company. The knowledge and expertise of our guide was mesmerising and without him and his amazing photography skills, I think our experience of Ayutthaya would have been all the poorer.

Anniversary Meal on So Samsen

..... And finally after an early start and a hard day we went to So Samsen for another traditionally cooked Thai meal, which was delicious.

I can't believe Darrell and I have been together for 27 years, but I am always glad we are travelling the World on our anniversary, doing what we love best, because that is what makes us who we are. Oh, we argue a little more than we used to, but that just comes with the territory when you get old and have been together so long. However, I wouldn't have us any other way, and as long as we keep travelling, we will be together; the pandemic is over, it's time to start exploring once again!

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The Grand Palace & Wat Arun, Bangkok!

21/9/2022

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The Grand Palace, Bangkok

On Tuesday we travelled the length of the river Chao Phraya, to decide where to visit the next day, in order to get the most out of our stay in Bangkok. Our first destination on Wednesday was the Grand Palace, and after a short boat ride, we arrived at this popular tourist destination. The pier was busy, full of tourists, confused, working out which way to go to get to the Palace. The sign posting was extremely confusing and with a diversion in place, we did end up walking around in circles for a while. I have to admit, at one stage we gave up and walked back to the tourist ferry to go to our next destination.

We were told in no uncertain terms, we could not enter the Grand Palace wearing short trousers, so Darrell being Darrell, decided we were leaving, and we weren't going to do what they said. Sat waiting for the ferry, I suggested we go over to the shop opposite and buy some suitable clothes; perturbed, Darrell reluctantly agreed, and we bought a couple of outfits, fighting our way back through the throng and into the palace entrance.

Security and anti COVID measures were tight as we made our way through the various check points. Our temperatures were taken on a number of occasions, and we had to wear a mask all the way through to the palace itself. The heat was almost unbearable as Darrell and I entered the first courtyard, after stepping through the entrance, but my God, as we hopped over the step and into the square, I was in absolute awe of the place; I was walking through fairy land, and it was spectacular; a feast for the senses and I didn't know where to look first.

Around every corner, there was an even more wonderful building, shining brightly in the sunlight. Thai architecture is unlike anything I have ever seen. It is garish, shiny, sparkly and brash, but its stunning beauty reminds you of just where you are. If I was a subject of the King of Thailand, I would be wonder struck at the scene playing out before me. This was a sacred site, a royal home and a place of worship; it was simply spectacular.

The all consuming heat of the day was reflecting off the golden, mirrored surfaces that adorned the majestic construction of the Grand Palace in Bangkok. The sweat was dripping off us, like an uncontrollable torrent, but surprisingly, the clothes were keeping us cooler than one would have expected. Our reluctance to dress in traditional Thai attire disappeared, as we realised there was a reason people in Thailand dressed as they do. To be honest, if I had also worn a suitable hat from the beginning of the day, I would have felt even better. As it was, I was burnt from my head to my neck, and it was all my fault for not following the guidelines.

The palace complex was vast; we stopped several times, to go inside various temples, taking our shoes off and sitting for a short while, absorbing the atmosphere and just being a part of the colourful spectacle in front of us - Statues of Buddha finished in gold, surrounded by offerings from people visiting the temples, incense wafting around the hallowed halls and coloured garlands hanging from statues and smaller figurines. This was a very strange experience coming from a western culture, but it was truly humbling to be a part of it, and accepted by everyone around us, as an equal. This is very different to the way we would have treated tourists in the UK; we have so much to learn of the people of Thailand!

We walked around the vast Grand Palace for an hour and a half, eventually making our way out into a distinctly European styled park with a classically built mansion at its heart; perfectly manicured gardens and ornate topiary, set the scene for a refined private space, fit for a King. Everywhere you looked was a breathtakingly beautiful, this was by far the most impressive destination we had visited. Time wasn't on our side, however, so we made our way back to the ferry and to our next stop of the day, Wat Arun!

Wat Arun, Bangkok

Wat Arun was just another quick boat ride away. This tall, ornate structure on the banks of the Chao Phraya looks phenomenal, as the boat pulls in to the pier. It cost one hundred Baht (£2.00) each to get inside the large temple. It does seem wrong to say, but compared to The Grand Palace, Wat Arun did seem a bit of an anti climax, even though it is an impressive structure. The ornate stone carving is divine and triggered that spiritual side in me that rarely surfaces these days. It was a building like no other. There was no gold, mirrors and garish decoration, just more muted tones, which sat in harmony with its surroundings. This was traditional, ancient Thai construction at its finest, and was in complete contrast to everything we had seen before.

It was at this point I had to buy a hat, the biggest one I could find, since I was burning in all the wrong places. My shoulders, neck and head were red raw, so I grabbed what I could from a local market stall and put it straight on. OK, it wasn't the most attractive look in the World, but I really didn't care. When you are sweating like a glassblowers a*se, the way you look isn't important. Straight away I felt the benefits as I made my way around the site; finally I had some relief from the sun!

Walking around Wat Arun, I was struck by the number of 'pilgrims.' Ladies getting off one of the many boats to the Wat, were dressed in their finest clothes, while little old sweaty mess me, staggered around aimlessly. I am intrigued to find out why they go here and what significance it has. What I have been told, is there is a strict dress code in all the temples, because members of the current Thai Royal Family still used these historic places, so in a way, it would be like me going to Buckingham Palace dressed in a pair of shorts and a T-shirt - it just isn't done.

Wat Arun has to be one of the most beautiful temples we visited, and I loved walking along its ancient walkways, just brushing my hand against the masonry, feeling the history between my fingers. I was privileged to be walking in the footsteps of many thousands before me, and I did feel lucky, especially after the pandemic. It felt like I would never travel again and despite Thailand's strict COVID measures in place, it didn't detract from the majesty of Bangkok!

One of Thailand's National Deserts

So on Samsen Road, Bangkok

To end the day, Darrell wanted to visit the most expensive shopping mall I have ever been it, Iconsiam. The brands included Cartier, Tiffany and the like. This wouldn't be a place I would usually visit, but I was boiling hot and just needed to cool down, so went with gritted teeth.

Inside, this homage to excess and greed, was like walking into the Hanging Gardens of Babylon. There were fake flowers, a pretend street market and even a reproduction lake. To be honest, it looked awful and souless, and I would never choose to go there again.

We went for a meal in a Korean restaurant on the ground floor and had what I can only describe as a tasteless pastiche of Korean cuisine; it tasted nothing like the food we ate in Korea in 2019. At an over inflated price, including over four pounds for a tiny beer, I did lose my rag somewhat. It's places like this that give cities like Bangkok the money they need to grow and expand, but it really sends the wrong message to traditional Thai people, who continue to live and work here. In contrast, right next door, there was a scrapyard, where traders were making money in the best way they could; this really could be a tale of two cities, and it made me feel sad.

Luckily we left pretty soon, since even Darrell got bored with the overpriced consumerism. This wasn't the reason I came to Thailand, and I hope to never venture into a shopping mall again.

However, there was one redeeming feature, Darrell and I bought one of Thailands traditional deserts for a treat, but at a cost of ten pounds it wasn't cheap, like everything at Iconsiam. It was made of shaved ice, milk, flaked almonds, cake and sweet caviar with cream. OK, so it did taste bloody good, but I'm sure I could get it somewhere else for a fraction of the price.

Suitably cooled down, we made our way back home for a delicious meal at our now favourite restaurant, So on Samsen Road, a place we will be back to eat every day this week. The food is delicious, home cooked, prepared in a clean kitchen and the toilets are sparkling, that's a must for me. Above all, the price was right - a two-course meal and two beers for under twenty pounds.... can't go wrong!

Until tomorrow!

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Another Day Another Hotel - Patpong to Phranakorn!

20/9/2022

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Nouvo City Hotel, Phranakorn

We arrived at our new hotel, The Nouvo City at 12pm, after a short cab ride from The Siam Heritage in the rain, which decided to belt it down as we were leaving. Despite liking the more traditional Siam Hotel, I was actually looking forward to a bit more luxury. The Nouvo City Hotel is an award-winning destination, down by the river, and it is easy to see why. The hotel rooms are large and spacious and have a superb array of services. The Nouvo offers everything from a laundry service, 24-hour room service and other facilities we haven't seen yet on our stay in Thailand.

There is a gym, spa, heated swimming pool, two wonderful restaurants and since I have just eaten breakfast this morning, an excellent buffet breakfast. Last night we ate dinner here. Embarrassingly, when I ordered a beer with my food, I was a little bit confused, when the waiter said they didn't serve alcohol; then the penny dropped. This city hotel caters for a mainly Muslim clientele, although there are more Europeans here than I have seen elsewhere. I had basically booked an alcohol-free hotel; luckily there is a wonderful bar just opposite where you can get a very large ninety Baht beer.

However, the food I ordered was delicious. I'm not too sure I got the right meal mind you, since it was nothing like what I ordered, but it was out of this World - so fresh and tasty. To be honest it went down pretty well without a beer, so it really isn't a problem for me not drinking in the hotel itself. So far it's an impressive city residence and seems like the right choice for a more comfortable experience.

The surrounding area looks much the same as Patpong. You can tell this is a developing city, and there are lines and lines of telephone wires stretching across every street in the most confusing, haphazard way. There is a canal in front of the Nouvo, but the colour leaves a lot to be desired; it certainly isn't Venice. That is the real charm of this place though; it is different, gritty and unpolished and that is why I like it. The disorganisation Bangkok projects just makes for a more memorable time!

Laundry

Darrell and I have been travelling for quite a few weeks now, so we have been desperate to find a hotel to do our accumulation of washing for us. Having spoken to the concierge at the desk, he explained the hotel could do our laundry, but it would be markedly cheaper to pop just over the road to a small Chinese laundrette, where they would do it for a third of the price. I was a little hesitant at first, but thought why not, I might as well give it a go.

I walked the few hundred meters up Samsen Road, where a group of ladies were sat outside, chatting, laughing and bashing clothes; not using a washing machine that I could see. I passed over my bag of clothes, which weighed four kilograms. This was important; they charge one hundred baht per kilogram for an express wash, which is about two pounds, so for eight pounds they would have everything washed for 10 pm that night. It was a little more expensive because of the quick turnaround and would have cost a fraction of what we paid, to have it done in twenty-four hours. Still, for me, it was a bargain and worth every single Baht and the washing came back perfect, folded and pressed; it would probably cost more to turn the washing machine on back home these days!

Chao Phraya River Park

Without the luxury of a full day, Darrell and I decided to go for a walk along the bank of the Chao Phraya River. The temperature had rocketed upwards again since the rain, sitting at a toasty thirty-two degrees, so the breeze from the river was welcome.

Stopping for a delicious bite to eat at Coco Chaophraya, it was a joy just sat looking out over the distinctly busy waterway. We saw a couple of tourist boats go past and decided to walk up to the dockside, where we paid for a brief boat tour, just to see what this large city has to offer. At a cost of eighty pence, we spent an hour travelling up and back along the Chao Phraya, viewing the city scape in its full glory. The skyline is impressive, with ancient history everywhere you look. We will be back tomorrow to take the 'hop on/off' tour, spending the day visiting all the tourist sights.

Chao Phraya River Cruise

Thai Massage

Back at the hotel, while Darrell had a swim, I went for my first ever Thai Massage, a service offered by the hotel. At a cost of seven hundred Baht, which is about fifteen pounds, I was given an hour's treatment in the spa, and it was wonderful; in fact it was so good, I slept like a baby last night, for the first time in days.

Now seven hundred Baht is actually quite expensive on a Thai level for a massage, especially since I could have got one at the laundrette for two hundred and fifty, but lets just say I wanted to play it safe. I have heard many negative comments about various backstreet establishments offering a 'full service' as it were. Really, I just wanted to relax and enjoy the experience in a clean, sterile environment, and I wasn't disappointed.

I was taken to a darkened room and asked to put on a freshly prepared Thai outfit, and then this young Thai gentleman started giving me the massage from heaven. Starting off with my feet and legs, working his way to my back and buttocks. He then did my arms and hands, which was so relaxing, especially suffering with mild arthritis and finally onto my back, shoulders and neck. There was a lot of clicking going on, as he manipulated my muscles and tendons, pulled my fingers and cracked my back, finally stretching my arms backwards, which although painful, made me feel great afterwards. It was well worth every penny and I will be back for another one before I leave.

Street Life in Phranakorn

In the evening, we went for a walk around the local area of Phranakorn, which is very different to Patpong. Phranakorn is far more relaxing and friendly. It does feel a bit like going back in time, into a different world, but that is part of its charm. We settled down for a couple of drinks at So on Samsen Road, which feels like a family run bar. The hostess and waitresses were lovely, friendly, and very welcoming, unlike other places we have visited; already I felt completely at home.

The furnishings and decor were very Thai and extremely comfortable, unlike the more rough and ready bars around the area. Importantly for me, the toilets were immaculate, which is always a must, but just like everywhere else around here, there was a notice on the wall asking us to put toilet paper in the bin and not down the toilet, which was a bit strange. However, when you discover there is a problem with the drains blocking, you can understand why.

Sitting down, enjoying a bottle of Chang, a local cat came and plonked herself down next to Darrell and spent the evening sat next to us. Felines know who they like and if you are comfortable with cats or not, and she seemed to enjoy being around us. After talking to the owner, it seems she is a stray cat, but is looked after by her. She looks very well-kept I have to say, and it was great just sat there, chilling with a cat rubbing around our legs once more, we really have missed that feline contact since we've been travelling. So Bar, really did feel like a home from home, and we will be back tomorrow for dinner; to end another perfect day in paradise; well almost paradise!

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Bangkok - Where modernity sits in harmony with tradition!

19/9/2022

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Chong Nonsi Canal Park

There is so much to explore in Bangkok, knowing where to start is difficult. As I opened the curtains from our hotel room yesterday morning and saw the MahaNakhon tower, or the more aptly named 'falling down' building, outside my window which is truly a marvel to behold, I knew Darrell and I needed to explore the city before we headed for a more sophisticated stay down by the river, away from the fray of Silom 4 Alley.

I have enjoyed staying in this part of Bangkok, it certainly has been an eye-opener, but the extremes in this part of the city are laid bare (literally) in a very raw way. What you see is what you get here. This is a particularly seedy area, (there I've said it) and it wouldn't be a place where I would choose to stay again, but walking around, jumping on a BTS train from time to time, you can see a softer, more traditional side of Bangkok.

The community around our hotel is rather colourful, but if one looks deeper, below the surface, it seems sex isn't the taboo, it is in the UK in particular. There are clubs, massage parlours and 'money boy' bars everywhere, but that is just part of the course when you stay in Patpong, and it really just adds to the unusual atmosphere of the place. Its gritty underbelly is a reason to visit here alone; you will never see anything like it again.

A short sky train ride away we stumbled upon the Chong Nonsi Canal Park, similar to the one in Seoul in Korea, where we visited in 2019, although certainly not as well looked after or clean. The canal is still fascinating to visit, but still very much under construction. The water has a distinctly brown hue, rather than crystal clear; I dread to think what lurks inside.

The buildings around Chong Nonsi are particularly stunning, bright, modern and sparkling in the morning sun, interconnected with the brutalist structure of the BTS Sky Train system and a city living very much above the streets of Bangkok. It is a bit of a culture shock if you are not used to this extreme urban way of living, but to live it first hand was a treat and something I will never forget!

Sri Maha Mariamman Temple, Bangkok

From Chong Nonsi, we visited Sri Maha Mariamman Temple, nestling between the modern glass buildings that litter the skyline. This traditional Hindu place of worship was a fascinating encounter. There was a lot of noise, colour and the smell of incense was intense. This feast for the senses feels rather foreign to the casual observer. If you aren't used to Hinduism it can be quite a shock. Religious practise in the UK bears no resemblance to the Hindu religion and for that reason alone it is worth a visit. I was however, expecting a much larger building and was struck by how small it was, but the intimate space offered a look into a way of life, that people like me from western nations have very little concept of.

Golden Buddha Statue

After a short break at the hotel, freshening up after the scorching temperatures outside, Darrell and I walked the short distance to the nearest MRT station, to take an underground train, to the Statue of The Golden Buddha. The most annoying thing, about the otherwise perfect, public transport systems here in Bangkok, is they are not integrated, The BTS Sky Train works independently of the MTS Subway and this can be terribly frustrating.

We bought a day travel card for the Sky Train, at a cost of three pounds, rather than the twenty pounds you would pay in the UK, and being unknowledgeable tourists we initially thought we could use in on both systems, but no. At a cost of seventeen Bhat (about thirty pence) we paid separately for a token to take us the one of the most famous landmarks in Bangkok, situated just outside China Town.

The complex where the statue is situated was roasting hot and packed to bursting with pilgrims all wanting to go to this Buddhist site. We bought a ticket each to enter the inner sanctum, and it was a rather beautiful experience. It was of course difficult to take in everything in its full glory, due to the amount of people there, but it was nevertheless a visit I was glad to have undertaken. Yes it is a typical tourist stop, but that is what I am here for, to see these places and discover more about Thailand.

The biggest shock for me was the surrounding area, where the temple is build, which has clearly built up over time. I have often found myself surprised at just how run down the urban sprawl is around these monuments, it is completely at odds with the way things are in Britain at least, but it really does add to the lawless feel I have often felt here in Bangkok.

Bangkok China Town Gate

The Statue of the Golden Buddha is situated just outside China Town, which makes this a particularly colourful part of Bangkok. The smells, sights and feel of the area is typically Chinese and is a captivating place to visit. We didn't venture too far into the Town because we were extremely hot, but just took a brief look around, especially as I am such a fan of anything Asian.

By now we were literally melting and sweating profusely, so as we made our way back to the subway station we stopped for a welcome break in Starbucks. It did seem very odd seeing this vestige of western commercialism in the middle of this particular district, but it is again a reason why I love this part of the World so much. Asian culture is so different from our own, but you do on occasion see the two ways of life living in perfect harmony, side by side. There is after all no reason why our different lifestyles and traditions shouldn't coexist, it is just up to us to ensure we embrace all our peers as equal, without prejudice and afford one another the respect we all deserve.

Funeral of The late Queen Elizabeth II

After an exhausting day of sightseeing, I made it back to the hotel to watch The late Queen Elizabeth's funeral service. It has been difficult trying to find away of viewing this emotional event at home in the UK, since there is very little English-speaking television channels at the Siam Heritage Hotel. However, I did manage to watch the entire thing on a live feed from Sky News and what a very touching experience it was; something I will never forget for as long as I live.

The funeral began at 6 pm Bangkok time and with Darrell swimming in the roof pool, I sat down to watch Her Majesty's funeral without interruption. I don't think I have ever felt so moved in my life. My homeland was giving the only Monarch most of us have ever known, the best send off they could, and if I am honest, it has been heart-wrenching watching it from the sidelines in Bangkok; I would have much rather been home at this time.

I have done my best to remember The Queen whilst travelling, in the most respectful way I can. Friends and colleagues back home have also helped to make me feel a part of the proceedings back in Britain, by laying flowers on my behalf and saying a few words from me, which has helped with my own personal pain, watching the Queen's death unfold from afar.

Luckily I have been able to pay my respects to The late Queen here in Thailand. Visiting the Statue of the Golden Buddha, gave me the opportunity to say goodbye to my Queen in a very unique way. A few thoughts for a Lady who had a tremendous impact on my life. As a Monarchist, I will always respect the institution, whoever is King or Queen, but Elizabeth R, will always be the most amazing lady I have ever known. Her sense of duty is unmatched and her loyal service without precedent. I was glad to end the day immersed in the tradition and remembrance of a woman who has been the constant in my nations life and as I continue my travels around the World, I will always remember her as a beacon of light in this terribly dark World.

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