Category: Bangkok-chiang-mai-2023

Year In Review 2023!

31/12/2023

I'm not too sure how long this blog will be today, since for the last week, I've been suffering from a bad wrist. I've been to the Doctors, as you would expect from me, and have an X-ray and ultrasound booked for 8 January. This kind of thing always happens at the most inconvenient time, so I just have to wait until Christmas is over. For now, I will just persevere and do as much as I can.

Looking back over this past year has for once been a pleasure. Darrell and I have achieved so much here in Australia, in such a short space of time. I started my new job, as Manager of a busy outlet shop, in the middle of January and have been working there ever since. Getting this job, after only being in Australia for a few months, was an amazing achievement. I had no idea I would be working so soon after receiving my Permanent Resident status, just a few weeks before. However, so far I seem to have fitted in well at this high-end shop, just a fifteen-minute walk from where we currently live.

Of course, I have worked in retail most of my life and my customer service skills are exceptional, but I still have to pinch myself sometimes, when I realise just how far I have come, since leaving the UK. Compared to previous jobs, this position is extremely well paid and has allowed me to afford a lifestyle, I could have only dreamt of in the UK. I am no longer just surviving day by day, I now have the money to do the things I want, and I am well aware of how lucky I am to be in such a fortunate position. I never thought I would be working for such a respected Australian brand, in an industry I initially knew very little about. Furthermore, I am, however, proud to say I have adapted to my somewhat challenging circumstances and become a respected member of the Management team!

Early in the year, we also exchanged contracts on our new home in Australia. With a lot of luck and encouragement from a wonderful financial advisor, we bought a three-bedroom villa, our first home together since living in Spain. The house is everything we could have dreamt of, offering us a home in a country I am now proud to call home. Thankfully, I was able to save a substantial deposit, whilst living in the UK, during COVID. For the first time in a long time, I was able to do the right thing financially and invest in mine and Darrell's future.

The villa needs a lot of work doing to it, and it isn't something we will finish overnight. Gradually, we are doing what we can, when finances allow. Unlike the past, I am paying for everything cash and not on credit, which means the renovations will take a little longer to complete. That's fine by me, I am in no rush to get everything done, and I'm not going anywhere soon.

We have managed to upgrade the electrics, replace the garden fence and fully furnish the property, without borrowing money. It's only because we earn a decent wage that we have been able to do this, if I was back in the UK, it just wouldn't have happened.

2023 has been about turning over a new leaf and part of that desire, includes financial independence and stability. With frugal living and careful money management, I have managed to pay double the mortgage payments over the last year, reducing my mortgage term from 30 to 12 years, and I'm not stopping there. I am determined to pay off this house in record time and most importantly, buy another investment property, to supplement mine and Darrell's pension as we approach retirement. This isn't something we can do straight away, especially with interest rates so high, but it is top of my list of priorities as we approach 2024.

With my Permanent Residency secured, I was finally given permission to leave Australia; after such a difficult few months, I decided to arrange a holiday for me and Darrell, back to Thailand. This was a place both of us fell in love with, when we travelled there in 2022 and like my other half, I wanted to see more of this amazing Country. In August, we flew to Bangkok, where we began a ten-day unforgettable holiday.

This was a two centre holiday, and we started our time in Bangkok, staying once again at the Nuovo City Hotel, opposite our favourite Bangkok restaurant 'So Samsen' on Samen Road. This beautiful restaurant is owned Aom, who made us feel so at home, the first time we arrived in Thailand, a year before. Aom offered a safe haven, where we could sit and relax, finally free from the bitterness we left behind. In many respects, 'So Samsen' provided us with a homely, friendly environment, which we had craved for so long. We agreed we would return, and here we were in 2023, back in a place, so special, so full of happy memories, 'So Samen' on Samsen Road!

From Bangkok, we flew to the northern Thai province of Chiang Mai, where we spent six amazing days exploring this truly awe-inspiring place. We spent time at an Elephant sanctuary, visited the jungle, climbed a waterfall and visited the famous Long Neck Karen People, who I had only ever read about in books. It was an incredible adventure of a lifetime and a trip I will never forget. This was what living life was all about, and we had finally found happiness far away from the UK.

A house is of course never a home without a cat, and finally we were able to adopt two cats and make them a part of our life. First came Pippa, a beautiful tabby, who has Hyperreflexier, and the sweetest little girl, who has many issues to deal with. She was a rescue cat, who still remains nervous, but over time, we hope she will settle down and finally relax around us. Then there is Akira, a rescue kitten, who quite honestly is a little terror, but a loving one at that. Both of them have a way to go, before they are settled together, but as time moves on, they are becoming closer and closer and most importantly integrating into our life in Western Australia.

As 2023 draws to a close, it is important for Darrell and I to spend our first Christmas together, down under, in our new home, surrounded by family and friends. For the first and last time, I cooked a proper British Christmas Dinner, in sweltering 35 degree heat. Luckily, we have aircon in every room and the raging temperature wasn't too much of an issue.

It does feel good to have a home again and invite guests over, as we used to, back in the good old days. You can go weeks without seeing people here, so it does make a pleasant change to entertain like we did in the past. Both Darrell and I are homebodies and our house is very important to us, so we are particularly choosy about whom we have over. We have been bitten too many times by bad people, and this isn't something we want again.

As we move into 2024, we hope to continue very much in the same vein as before. My job is now secure and after a large pay rise, I hope to invest more money into our villa. We also plan to travel extensively next year, returning to the UK when we can and visiting Vietnam and Japan. This has indeed been one of our most successful years ever, but we are aware of just what could go wrong. It is essential both of us look towards the future, but never forget the past that is responsible, for where we are today. Learning from our mistakes, is the only thing that will give us the future we both deserve and a successful if challenging life, even if it is twenty years too late!

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Clayborne's World - Bangkok and Chiang Mai!

3/11/2023

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For the last five years, Clayborne the Cancer Research Teddy, has accompanied me on my travels, both in the UK, when I lived there, and abroad. This little bear is looking rather bedraggled these days, having clocked up the air miles, flying all over the World. Like me, however, Clayborne remains a committed traveller, bringing awareness to the good work Cancer Research does and for that reason he remains an important part of my journey, even in my new home of Australia!

Clayborne is a reminder of my years working for Cancer Research, and of the wonderful characters who worked in the little charity shop in Portsmouth. He is also a mascot for me, as I traverse across the planet between my home in Australia, my old home in the UK, and my adopted home of Spain. I feel exhausted just writing that - we really have travelled a lot!

Even now, as I settle into life in Perth, Clayborne remains an important part of my past, as well as crucial to my future direction. He may well be, essentially, just a stuffed toy, with a wonky head and dishevelled fur, but he is a reflection of my life over the last half decade and hopefully a special part of my future travels as well.

If this little bear could talk, what stories he would have to tell. Travelling to America on a repatriation flight, during the COVID pandemic, has been the highlight of Claybornes endeavours, and I'm sure the best is yet to come.

Like me, Clayborne enjoyed Thailand for a second time, and looks forward to our trip to Japan next year. Apart from Darrell, Clayborne is the second most important part of my life. He may well just be a bear, but he is my bear and very much a part of my family! I really am such a sentimental old man!

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Bangkok and Chiang Mai - Urban Art, the ever-changing landscape!

29/10/2023

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Whenever I travel, I like to experience all aspects of life in the place I am visiting. By visiting overlooked areas other tourists avoid, I am able to see more of a country and the people who live there. Thailand is a country of contrasts; around every corner there is another temple or religious monument, but there are also clues to other aspects of Thai life. Graffiti, rather like paintings in a gallery, document particular points in the history of a nation; although it is often unnoticed and unappreciated, its artistic merit is equally important.

I have always been an admirer of graffiti art. My daily walk through The Lanes in Portsmouth on the way to work in the UK, was an artistic journey, that never failed to impress. I would often see Graffiti artists at work, adding to the urban landscape and would often stop and chat, about a skill I admire. It isn't usual to pay tribute to such a controversial activity, but I can appreciate the expertise that creates such thought-provoking, unique pieces of art.

Bangkok and Chiang Mai has its own urban art scene, and the work I saw whilst travelling through these two distinctly different regions was as good, if not better, than anything I have seen before. Not only was I impressed with the street art I observed, but I was also eager to see more.

Including samples of the graffiti I saw in Thailand, within my travelogue, alongside pictures of religious Wats, Buddhist architecture and sublime natural beauty, may seem strange, but the transient nature of these images show the real Thailand. They record the lives of the street artists who have created them, adding character to the cities where they are displayed. Creating a lasting reminder of events that shape all our lives, leave a lasting impression on all those, like me, who view them!

Graffiti works because of its unpredictable, temporary and fleeting nature, without it, our cities and the great urban sprawl would be all the poorer. Maybe all of us should accept the merits of street art and encourage it positively, then and only then will we see the true value of this unique, progressive and often gritty aspect of urban life.

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Return to Reality - The Long Journey Home! 17-18 September 2024.

14/10/2023

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The worst thing about going on holiday, is coming home, especially when you have had such a wonderful time. Nam, our driver from yesterday, picked us up from our hotel in Chiang Mai, at a less unearthly 10am in the morning, in stark contrast to our first flight to Bangkok on the 12th of September.

I wasn't looking forward to the flight back to Bangkok, mainly because I am no fan of internal flights, especially in Asia. Judging on previous experience, I know how rough these trips can be. Nevertheless, we had to fly back to Bangkok, so had little choice but to get on the plane.

Chiang Mai Airport is small but perfectly formed. There is plenty to do, from shopping to eating, and we had lots of time and some spare cash left to do just that. Sitting, waiting for our flight, I was feeling rather philosophical about my time in Northern Thailand. I had thoroughly enjoyed my stay, but was a little sad that I wouldn't be returning for quite a while. Chiang Mai had opened my eyes to another part of Thailand, that I want to explore further. This city and surrounding region is, without a doubt, one of the most beautiful areas I have ever stayed in.

We returned to the capital on a Thai Smile flight, part of Thai Airways, and to be honest it was a pleasant enough journey. Taking slightly under an hour to fly to Bangkok, we were given a small snack, including a bottle of water and a cake, which went down rather well. It was quite sweet of Thai Smile to give us this little bag of goodies and as their name suggests, it did put a smile on my face. It's not often you get anything for free on a budget airline, but they did go that extra mile, and it was appreciated, at least from me!

Bangkok Airport - View from Siam Mandarina Hotel!

The flight was rather rough coming back, just as I expected. This is a region where weather systems often cause more turbulent flights than normal, especially during the rainy season, so I was well-prepared for it. The feeling of dread and panic that grips me in these circumstances passed pretty quickly. Whether or not I'm just getting more used to flying, I don't know; personally I think I was more to do with the fact, that it was just an hour-long flight, and I just thought, 'well, what's the worst that can happen.' I have done a lot of flying over the years, and this was by no means the worst flight I have ever been on. I was however glad to land in one piece after the pilot slammed the plane down onto the tarmac.

We quickly made our way through security and out into the terminal building, where we were met by a representative of the Siam Mandarina Hotel, where we were staying for our final night in Thailand. A mini bus took us to this luxurious, modern hotel, just a short ride away, where we spent a quiet evening in front of the TV before our flight home on Monday morning. This was a stylish building, with first class service and prices to match. The Siam Mandarina was the most expensive hotel we stayed in on our holiday, and with all the facilities on site, it was easy to see why.

After a quick bath... yes, a bath in a full size tub, we headed for an early lunch in the hotel restaurant. Both Darrell and I had a distinctly western style dish of Beef and chocolate stew, which actually tasted delicious. We followed our meal, with a few bottles of rather expensive Chang, sat in the plush art deco style lounge bar. Suitably refreshed and nourished, we retired to our room to prepare for yet another flight.

Both Darrell and I slept like a log; travelling all day can be tiring, so it was wonderful to feel refreshed and ready to catch our flight from Bangkok Airport. Breakfast in the Crystal Restaurant was out of this World, there was everything you could imagine, from continental, European, British and Asian cuisine, the choice was top class. Having paid nearly $100.00 for the breakfast alone, I expected nothing less, and I wasn't disappointed. We had a very long day ahead, so we stocked up on food, far more than we usually would.

It took about fifteen minutes to drive the short distance to the Airport, and we were there in plenty of time before our flight. I am a person who has never been late for anything in my life, so I was at the check in counter way before I had to be.

The process was a lot more complicated than flying domestically, as one might expect, and the queues were long at security and Border Control. This was expected; I have been to this Airport before, and it is extremely busy, but once through customs the terminal building was full to bursting with shops and restaurants.

I bought a few last minute gifts before we set off, on our way back to Australia. You could certainly tell you were in an airport, the prices were sky-high, so about all I could afford was a few fridge magnets, Still it was nice to look around, and just enjoy the last few hours we had left in Thailand. After a meal at a Korean fast food outlet, we made our way to the gate, bidding farewell to Bangkok and yet another unforgettable holiday.

It is emotional leaving somewhere you love, just as it was last year. This time it was different though, I had really fallen for the place, and felt so at home and relaxed there. My love for Asia seems to have grown over the years, and now approaching my mid-fifties, I could really see myself living on this amazing continent. Sat waiting for our plane, I thought very deeply about my time in Thailand, and just how much it meant to me. Travelling is such a big part of my life that I can't really imagine a time when I don't fly. Of course, that day will come eventually, but until then, both of us will just keep doing what we love best - seeing the World and experiencing new cultures. Eyes wide open, we left, heading towards Kuala Lumpur and a brief two-hour stopover!

When I departed Britain last year, I left most of my belongings behind, as I did when we relocated to Spain in 2018. Many of the souvenirs I had from previous trips abroad, have long since gone, so I did buy a few selective pieces of Royal Selangor Pewter, from a shop at KL Airport. I used to have quite a collection, after visiting Malaysia twice before, and it was important to try and replace some of the memories I lost. Malaysia is indeed a beautiful country, but it is also a place Darrell and I can not visit these days.

Its anti-gay legislation prevent us from staying there as a couple, and we wouldn't want to pretend we are anything else. For that reason, we choose not to go there, and hope in time Malaysia's laws will change. It was quite apt to see a rainbow flying high above our plane as we waited to board. The Malaysian Government may well have banned pride flags and all things gay, but a rainbow flying over our plane home, is, thankfully, beyond even their control. It was a fitting end to our brief respite in Kuala Lumpur and a reminder of how lucky Darrell and I are, to live in a tolerant country free from discrimination.

After a rather pleasant journey to Perth, where I even watched a couple of movies, which is unusual for me, we landed safely in the early hours - the end of a perfect holiday and back to reality. I do feel rather connected to Thailand now and will of course look forward to our next trip to this stunning, wondrous country. The memories we made this year, we will carry with us, always. From our time in Bangkok, surrounded by friends at 'So Samsen,' a week in Chiang Mai, spent was Nam, feeding elephants and visiting the 'Long Neck Karen People,' we have had an amazing time.

This was a holiday where dreams were made, and I am thankful we had the opportunity to try new and life enhancing experiences. I am also reminded of the tumultuous times we are living through, with wars and conflicts erupting all over our beautiful World. If people travelled more and fought less, we wouldn't be in the mess we are in today!

Until Japan next year!

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Chokchai Elephant Camp - The experience of a lifetime!

7/10/2023

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Yesterday was probably one of the best days of my life, second only to my wedding in 2015. As holidays go, this has been an absolute belter, but nothing could have prepared me for the day I spent with Elephants at the Chokchai Elephant Camp, here in Thailand. Now, I have read much about elephants in Asia in the past, and the unethical way they have been treated, so I was in two minds about going on this trip in the first place. However, I did my research, and discovered, Chokchai Elephant Camp is one of the best rescue centres in Thailand. I have to admit it did have a bad reputation in the past, but after merging with The Elephant Nature Park, their whole ethos changed. This place is run by people who truly care, and I was honoured to be there.

We hired Nam, a private driver, for the day. This was the lady who had picked us up from Chiang Mai Airport, and will be taking us there tomorrow, when we leave for Bangkok. I liked her as soon as she picked us up, and for a few hundred dollars we had her for the whole day, driving us around, showing us the sites and sounds of the area. She was a joy to be with, spoke perfect English and was friendly and full of knowledge about Chiang Mai; she was the icing on the cake and made our holiday one of the best we have ever had!

The elephant camp was situated in the middle of the jungle, at the bottom of a valley surrounded by hills; on our arrival, we were greeted by the sounds of elephants, and beautiful butterflies fluttering past our faces. This was a place unlike anything I had experienced before and as we removed our clothes to put on something a little more suitable, I was wondering what I was letting myself in for.

Our guide gave us an introduction about the centre, its history, and information about the elephants looked after by the camp. If I remember rightly, there were about sixty-five residents in total and three of them were pregnant. From this, I knew we had made the right choice of park. Elephants will only get pregnant when they are in a happy environment, and as we approached the entrance to the park, you could see them all lined up, waiting to be fed. On the surface, they seemed perfectly content, as we were handed large bags of food to give them. Immediately you could see their individual personalities and character and how playful they were, several of them knocking one another, trying to get first dibs on the food.

Feeding these majestic creatures was just amazing. I have never been up close and personal, with anything like them in my life, and I was feeling a little emotional. They took the food respectfully and gently and let us stroke and pat them during their feeding time. There were several babies waiting patiently between their Mother's legs as well; they were playful, mischievous, and full of life. Every one of them looked happy to be there, and that was the point - I wouldn't stay anywhere where animals are badly treated and nor should you.

The elephants are given a medicine ball each day, which is made up of various nutritional goodies, including tamarind. Darrell helped make the dough like mixture and form them into balls, which we duly gave them. It is of course important that the baby calves get their share, so this is where we concentrated our efforts. Not all of them however wanted it, which is understandable. I remember as a child how I never wanted to take my medicine for this, that and the other – they are just following in the footsteps of children everywhere.

After feeding them, we followed the herd down towards the river. For the next hour, we just spent quality time interacting with them, touching them and observing them in their natural habitat. Gently they made their way down to the river bank, where they collapsed in a heap waiting for us to do all the work. We were given bowls and a scrubbing brush and gingerly made our way down the steep incline and into the river. Now I am not one for mud, dirt, and adventurous activity, so for me this was a first, and I was laughing and smiling all the way. I think I was the happiest I have been in a long time, as I wallowed in mud, cleaning an elephants back; the elephant was loving it, but so was I.

Wading back, up to the top of the hill, all the other elephants were wandering around, and we spent a good forty minutes continuing to get to know them. It felt strange stood there, as one of these six tonne animals brushed past. They are so big and clumsy looking, yet they know exactly what they are doing, and there were no injuries sustained - demure, good-natured and considerate in every respect. One baby elephant did take a liking to one of the young girls there, and started to chase her around, which was funny to see, not so funny for the young girl involved, but it emphasised their fun-loving, exuberant nature. Children will be children, and they just wanted to play, which they did in the most humorous way.

Heading back up towards base camp, the hoses were brought out and sprayed over the elephants, who loved it. We filled up their trunks with water, they sprayed it on their backs and the little ones decided to get dirty again, throwing dirt in the air, rolling on the floor and rubbing their backs. These were happy elephants, living their best life.

This was indeed a very special day for me and one I will always remember. It is something I have always wanted to do, but never had the opportunity to do so, so when Nam suggested it, hesitantly I agreed. It was the best decision of the holiday, and a memory to cherish – Darrell was blown away by this chance of a lifetime as much as I; we haven't stopped smiling and probably never will.

From Chokchai Elephant Camp, we travelled to Wat Ban Den and another spectacular religious site. This was one of the best we had ever seen and as I strolled through this large compound, it reminded me very much of the Film, 'The King and I.' The brightly coloured temples glistened in the hot afternoon sun, their richly decorated surfaces reflecting off the mirrored statues, and Buddhist monuments. This is what Thailand is all about, and it is a reason I would come time after time. There is so much to do and see here, it really is unlike anything I have ever seen.

Next stop was Buatong National Park, and a view of the waterfall meandering through the heavily forested terrain. By now, the sun was scorching, as we made our way through the jungle and down to the bottom of the waterfall. I was a little concerned by the 'beware of snakes' signs posted everywhere, but after a day with the elephants, I thought what the hell, what will be will be, and thankfully we didn’t see any.

The jungle scenery was amazing; this really is only something I have seen in films, and it was everything I had ever imagined. The vegetation, trees, hanging vines and sheer size was just too vast to comprehend. As I sat at the bottom, looking round, I just couldn’t believe the things we had seen on this holiday; I can’t believe we will be flying home in a few days – the holiday blues have started to creep in already!

After a short pit stop at the Air Diamond Cafe and Hotel (A converted plane) we drove back to Chiang Mai city. The heavens had opened, and the rain was tumbling down, it was an absolute deluge, but the perfect end to a magnificent day. I have grown to like the rain in Thailand, it is warm, yet cooling in the hot tropical temperatures, and when you book a holiday in the rainy season, what else do you expect.

As we spent a final night at our favourite restaurant, Airnniversary, listening to live music and eating great quality food, I was in reflective mood about returning home. The traveller in me will always want to travel, looking for somewhere else to lay my hat, and even though I am lucky to be living in Australia, I am still constantly thinking of where to move next. Thailand would be an amazing place to stay long term, but the practicalities of such a move would likely cause problems. Health care, property and pensions all have a role to play in our future decisions now. Living life in your fifties isn’t as fun any more. There was a time we would just get up and go. Today, we have to think carefully and way up the consequences of our actions. The holiday has given us food for thought that’s for sure, but for now, this is just a holiday and not a precursor to yet another new life. Both of us have a lot of hard work to do, before that happens!

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Not All Cat Cafés Are The Same - 15 September 2023!

1/10/2023

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Today was a bit of an odd day if I am honest. We had nothing planned, so just went with the flow. After breakfast, we went for a particularly long walk to the only Cat Cafe in Chiang Mai. It has become somewhat of a tradition for Darrell and I to visit these places, when we are travelling abroad, but as I have discovered over the years, not all cat cafés are the same. Subconsciously, I was feeling a little more hesitant than usual; I had a feeling it might not be what we expected, and I wasn’t wrong.

I need to walk every day, it’s just something I have to do now, keeping my weight in check. After doing it for several years, I am actually enjoying it. Whether I am on holiday or not, I need to keep up the momentum, so as long as I walk 10,000 steps a day I am happy. Today I have done over 20,000, so I’m pretty satisfied with that, if a little knackered.

Walking to the café, was a bit of an obstacle course; the roads in Chiang Mai, aren't particularly great, and I wasn't really dressed for walking either, wearing white linen trousers and a pair of flip-flops. Even though I was suitably attired for the tropical climate, it was really practical for the rainy season in northern Thailand. Nevertheless, I persevered with the walking, trying to keep my clothes clean and avoid the muddy roads.

We did manage to photograph yet another Wat on our walk this morning, one we had missed earlier, but in truth there are so many, you would never have enough time to visit them all. This religious site was as brilliant as the last, breathtaking in every respect. Despite the run-down nature of life in Chiang Mai, the Wats and monuments are extremely well cared for and a joy to visit. After a brief look around, we left, with the sun beating down, heading towards the Cool Cat Cafe at the other end of the city!

Cool Cat Cafe

It took about an hour to walk to the ‘Cool Cat Cafe;’ by the time I got there, I was hot, sweaty and tired, so wasn’t in the best of moods. Nothing, however, could have prepared me for the oddest cat café experience I have ever had, and one I never want to repeat.

As we walked through the door, I was immediately hit by a strong smell of ammonia; it was so overpowering, my eyes almost immediately started to stream. At that point, I should have walked out straight away. I had the distinct impression, the cats were not being cared for properly, I knew it deep down and wish I had never gone. The staff seemed disinterested and certainly not qualified to look after animals in such a small enclosed space.

When I say animals, I mean animals – all of them were hungry, and they weren’t all cats. There were lots of different felines, all shapes, sizes and breeds, but there was also a Fennec Fox and several Meerkats, as well as a cage with some form of rodent in. Under normal circumstances, none of these different animals should be housed together, and it was clear, that all of them had behaviour problems to differing degrees.

Now Darrell and I have been to many different Cat Cafés, all over the World, and we haven’t experienced this kind of set up before. When we entered the building, within a few seconds, we were accosted by all the animals housed there; jumping up and down, trying to climb our legs, there was clearly a problem. As a rule, well cared for cats will not react like this, unless they are hungry – they were literally starving. As much as I knew I should leave, I stayed for a short while, just in case my first impression was wrong.

We bought a drink and some food to feed the inmates; as Darrell opened the packets he was pounced on, as the cats, MeerKats and Fox all desperately fought for the small amount of food on offer – I have never seen anything like it and I felt quite upset.

I sat down briefly and was immediately set upon by a small tiny kitten, who really shouldn’t have been there, it was just too small and fragile. It clung on, not wanting to let go, and I just knew it was time to go. My eyes were now streaming more than ever, and I was beginning to feel physically sick and anxious. This was no place to keep cats, and the people in charge had absolutely no idea how to care for them.

Within half an hour, I told Darrell we were leaving; I walked out of the door and left, followed by Darrell after a few choice words. I can not get these poor creatures out of my head, but I also understand that animal welfare is different all over the World. Wherever I have been, cats in particular, have never been looked after as I would want, so I am trying to put a positive experience on my visit to the café, but in reality I just can’t.

Walking back to the hotel, I was in two minds about writing this today, but to be honest it has to be said. For a cat lover like me, to see animals in distress, with behavioural problems, issues with their eyes and fighting each other for food, is an absolute no, no. I love animals and don’t want to see them upset in any way. Having said all this, they were the most affectionate cats I have ever seen; I believe they were hungry and just desperate for love and attention, something they were not getting otherwise. I would never go back to this place again, under any circumstances; I left deflated and depressed, so God knows how the poor cats felt!

In the evening, we went for an early evening meal at Airnniversary, just as the heavens opened, and the rain come down. The food was great as ever, although with the rain tumbling down, we were the only customers in there. This is the rainy season, so I really shouldn’t expect anything different. Despite the rain, it was still warm, and a joy sat there listening to the thunder and lightening outside. We will be back for a final meal tomorrow!

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Chiang Rai Province and The Golden Triangle - 14 September 2023!

30/9/2023

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Yesterday was the most spectacular experience of our holiday so far. I had arranged a day excursion with 'Get Your Guide' online, before I left for Thailand, to see Chiang Rai province. There is so much to see in Chaing Mai and the surrounding provinces, that I wouldn't have time to fit it all in. I chose to see the iconic White and Blue Temples, as well as a detour to see the ‘Long Neck Karen People,’ and finally a boat ride to The Golden Triangle, encompassing the border of Thailand, Myanmar/Burma and Laos.

I have done many of these excursions before in other countries, and knew pretty much what to expect. An air-conditioned mini bus picked us up from our hotel at 7am, and we drove the short distance to pick up others, on the way to our first stop at The White Temple. There were three people from the United States, two from Italy and two from Spain, nine of us in total. Unsurprisingly, Darrell and I were the oldest people there, with all the others being in their twenties. It honestly feels only yesterday I was that age myself, so it can be quite depressing saying we were the oldest couple in the group, but we are getting older, and that’s not going to change.

The White Temple

It took us about four hours to reach the White Temple in Chiang Rai, after a brief stopover at the Hot springs on the way. Now, this brief stop, was akin to motorway service stations in the UK, but completely different. There were market stalls, shops, hot and cold street food and of course, the hot springs. We were warned by our guide, Eddy, not to touch the water, as it was boiling and would certainly injure us if we went too close. The area on the way to the temple was green and lush and extremely tropical in nature – it was littered with small traditional villages and an abundance of farms and superb mountain views.

The White Temple or 'Wat Rong Khun' is a modern religious building, opening its doors in 1997. It was constructed by Chalermchai Kositpipat, and dominates the skyline for miles around. This was the biggest and in my opinion the most beautiful temple I have ever seen. Being on a tour, it was sad we only had forty minutes to look around this vast complex, but it did give us a taster, should we want to return in the future.

We had both expected rain and had come fully prepared, but as we entered the temple, the sun was shining brighter than ever, reflecting harshly off the mirrored tiled surfaces, everywhere you looked. This place was like a fairy tale, and it was a building where dreams are made. Given the chance, I will be back one day; everyone who travels to Chiang Rai Province, must take some time to go here. Despite the crowds, there are areas to sit, reflect and admire the views.

You do find a lot of the Neo Thai, modernist architecture, all over Thailand, and it does speak volumes for the visionary architects who design and build these vast religious monuments. To look at the building, you would think it has been here years, but in fact, it has only been open for a quarter of a century. I am in admiration of a society who constructs such amazing structures. These beautiful buildings are Thailand's heritage in the making; the west has so much to learn!

The Blue Temple

From The White Temple, we drove twenty minutes to The Blue Temple, or Wat Rong Suea Ten. Once again this is another amazing modern building, built in Neo Traditional Thai Lanna Style, by local artist Phuttha Kabkaew, who was an apprentice to Chalermchai Kositpipat. The Blue Temple is no less impressive, and sits majestically on the edge of Chiang Rai city. I am literally in awe of all the religious buildings I have seen, they are beyond imagination, and so far removed from what we are used to in the west.

When I look at modern, British and European construction, of public and religious buildings, there is a clear difference in style. Thailand looks back towards its traditional roots, while incorporating modern techniques into their buildings; Europe tends to champion new, untried styles of architecture, that more often than not, sits awkwardly in the environment that surrounds it. For me, contemporary Thai architecture is far more athletically pleasing, and blends far better into the local landscape. The modern equivalent in the UK, just never look right and always look out of place; we have much to learn from Thai people, whose spiritual nature exudes in their buildings, even today.

The Baandam Museum

From The Blue temple we travelled to the Baandam Museum or Black House Museum to us foreigners. Designed by Thawan Duchanee, this private art collection displayed in traditional northern Thai buildings, spans 160,000 square meters, and is stunningly alluring and beguiling, sat in the most attractive grounds imaginable. There is also a cat rescue sanctuary on site, with some very well cared for felines, enjoying their best lives. I would have dearly loved to have taken one home, but with Australia's quarantine laws the way they are, that would be impossible. This was a place I could have spent far more time exploring. It was extremely peaceful and calming, even with hoards of tourists in situ.

Long Neck Karen People

Next stop, we visited the ‘Long Neck Karen People’ (Kayan Lawhi) in their settlement, about half an hour drive away. Now, like all of you, I am sure you have seen photographs or documentaries of this once reclusive tribe, who live in the northern mountains of Thailand. The women wear large brass coils around their necks – these are not individually made, as many people believe - they are made from a single piece of metal work, forming a large neck brace, that sits on the collar bone, in one extremely heavy piece of body jewellery.

Before we went we were assured, that the tribe received 100% of the money they made from the sale of local handicrafts and for me, it was a very humbling experience, spending some time with them, watching them at work and play, in their traditional home. All of them were welcoming and very open to questions and photographs. Asking to take a photo was a little embarrassing at times, but I was always sure to buy something from them as well – it felt like the right thing to do.

Walking around the village, I was struck by just how these people live; it is unlike anywhere I have ever been before. I have seen television programmes on similar tribes in the past, but nothing prepares you for the reality, when you see it up close and personal. It was an extremely emotional experience, and I feel truly honoured to have gone to observe their lives, even for a short period of time.

The Golden Triangle

By now, all of us were feeling tired, we had been driving for eight hours or so, but there was one final stop on this tour of Chiang Rai – The Golden Triangle. This is the area that links Thailand, Laos, Myanmar and Burma, and it was the highlight of the tour for most of us. We travelled along the borders of these countries in a rather old rickety boat, observing the differences in geology, geography and construction, and it was very different to what I had imagined.

After being given a bottle of Laos Beer, which tasted wonderful by the way, (Although I’m not sure the driver or other guides should have been consuming the stuff as well, but hey this is Thailand) we took an hour's trip on a long boat up and down the border region. What surprised me more than anything was the construction work going on in Laos. Modern buildings, including Laos’s biggest and tallest skyscraper, were popping up all over the foreshore. According to our guide, this is mainly due to Chinese investment, which has pumped a lot of cash into the area. Myanmar, on the other hand, looks relatively unchanged and sits perfectly into the natural landscape.

I couldn’t help feeling a little sad at what might become of this area, if construction continues at the rate it is, but then much of the natural landscape in this isolated area has changed over the years anyway. I just hope some protections are put in place to preserve what is left of the natural environment, for future generations to come.

For me, this was the experience of a lifetime, seeing things I have only ever seen in books or on TV. I was fortunate to see and observe from a distance, so have a somewhat distorted view of traditional Thai life. However, I am glad I have dipped my toes into Chiang Rai province, it is certainly be an area I would love to return to again!

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The Temples of Chiang Mai - 13 September 2023!

23/9/2023

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We started the day with a rather lacklustre breakfast at the Bodhi Serene Hotel. Quite frankly, compared to the Nouvo Hotel in Bangkok, it just wasn’t great. However, I persevered and at least we were cooked a fresh omelette by the chef. The choice was poor for a superior hotel, and not particularly hot; probably because we were first in the queue this morning, and the food wasn't fully heated through - Whatever the reason, I was a little disappointed to say the least. This b grade breakfast, didn’t detract from the beautiful hotel itself and with me piling on the pounds, it won't hurt if I miss out on this morning ritual, and at least eat a little less than usual.

We spent the day looking around Chiang Mai itself; there are a lot of 'Wats' or religious sites in this second-biggest city in Thailand, and it was the perfect opportunity to just walk around looking at each one. To be honest, there are too many of these temples to see in a few days, so we concentrated our efforts in the square where we are staying. Our hotel is slap bang in the middle, surrounded on each side by a moat/canal. In this area alone there is so much to see and do, and with time limited, it was the perfect place to discover the delights of this colourful area of the city.

The 'Wats' are breathtaking; as you walk along the many roads and narrow alleys in Chiang Mai, you can be sure there is another temple around the corner. The richly decorated monuments and places of worship are unlike anything I have ever seen. The colours are vibrant and intense; more often than not, I would just stand there fixated, aghast, mouth open wide; these wonders of human ingenuity just get bigger and better the more you explore. As a spiritual person, I feel totally relaxed in these beautiful spaces and could just spend my whole holiday sat within their walls.

The temperature was very hot today, and typically, I am nursing a rather red head. I have to keep reminding myself to wear a hat, especially in this tropical climate. The majority of the time there is no sun in the sky, but this is deceptive; It is extremely hot, and yes, you will burn, if you are not suitably covered up. I have certainly learnt this lesson the hard way.

Touring the 'Wats' on foot is no mean task – so far today I have done very nearly, 20000 steps, and it’s only 5.30pm. Surprisingly, though, I have managed to put on 2.6 kg so far; this just goes to show how well I have eaten here in Thailand. The quality and choice of food is just amazing, but my God, the old waist line is bulging.

The best way to explore Chiang Mai is literally on foot. This will help you stay fit and healthy and give you a chance to see things, you would miss in a car or tuk tuk. We have been able to explore behind the polished veneer and look at the other side of life here in Chiang Mai. Like everywhere, there is poverty, and whichever town or city you live in, you are never far away from it. I suppose you would call Thailand a developing country, so there really is more poverty than you would see in say Sydney or London.

Having said that, the people in Chiang Mai are so much friendlier than in Bangkok, except for the girls at 'So Samsen.' Everyone is polite, and unlike Bangkok, there is very little hassle; you are left free to wonder the streets, without people constantly touting for business. This makes Chiang Mai a joy – No matter how much we love Bangkok, the constant eulogising and persuasion tactics were beginning to take their toll. Chiang Mai has certainly been more of a relaxing time, and for that we are grateful.

After three hours of walking, we headed for something to eat, exploring the backstreets and lanes near our hotel, looking for a suitable restaurant. While trying to find somewhere open, we stumbled across an American gentleman, who recommended a German restaurant and beer garden, just around the next bend. We duly followed our nose and found this quaint eatery, tucked away behind some trees, sheltering it from the worst of the heat.

We both decided to go for something western, rather than traditional Thai. For me, I needed to give my stomach a rest and wanted something a little plainer. Darrell had a burger and I had Goulash with red cabbage. The food was as tasty as anywhere we have been in Thailand. What we have noticed, however, is the much larger portions here, than in Bangkok. Personally I’m all for portion control these days, but I can see Chiang Mai is catering for a rather large American market, who demand ever larger meal sizes. This was the first time I actually left food, and probably won't be the last.

The rain started to pour down, as we sat in our hotel room admiring the view. Tomorrow, we have a trip organised to the Golden triangle, so it will be an early night and a very early start in the morning.

Having been here for several days now, I have to say, I am feeling very settled and relaxed in Chiang Mai. You can see why so many tourists come here, it offers something for everyone.

It’s time for me to pop to the ATM, to withdraw yet more money for tomorrow and the rest of the week. This is a place that really doesn’t take cards, so cash is absolutely necessary. At a cost of $10 a time, withdrawing money isn’t cheap; next time I come, I will certainly come fully stocked with cash.

This would be my only pet peeve about Thailand – I wish I had been told to bring more notes, then I would have had a much cheaper ride. However, Chaing Mai is worth every cent, and I’m glad we chose to come here!

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Onwards to Chiang Mai - 12 September 2023!

21/9/2023

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The flight to Chiang Mai from Bangkok left at a rather civilised 1.30pm. We had time for breakfast and a last look around Pranakorn before we left. I had ordered a car from the Nouvo City Hotel, rather than wait for taxis, for our airport transfer; this is a more expensive option, but after the awful flight to Thailand from Australia, we just wanted a seamless transition to our next destination. Thankfully, we weren’t disappointed – our driver was a delight, chatting with us, talking about his life in Bangkok and generally looking after us on our journey to the airport.

Bangkok Airport was busy, as it always is, and I was expecting the same difficulties we had in Perth when checking in. The process at Perth international was a nightmare, but here it was a dream. We used the self-checkout to check in, and it was perfect, not a thing went wrong. We handed over our bags and headed to the domestic departures terminal - there was no hassle or fuss, we just walked straight through. I can only assume this was an easy process due to us only travelling domestically; whatever the reason, it just made the trip that much more pleasant.

We made a quick beeline to Burger King before our flight, since we wouldn’t be arriving into Chiang Mai until nearly three pm, but at a cost of $50.00 it wasn’t cheap. Airports never are to be honest, but this was excessive, especially by Thai standards, and was a lesson learned. Living life out of a suitcase for several weeks certainly has its disadvantages; having to eat out every day is one of them. From aeroplane meals, spicy Thai Food and take away joints, my stomach was doing somersaults this morning.

The flight to Chiang Mai took just over an hour. We flew on the smallest plane yet, and I was expecting a bumpy ride, but nothing could have been further from the truth. There was only slight turbulence and the cloud cover in this mountainous region wasn’t as bad as expected. As we descended into Chiang Mai, straightaway you could tell how different this place was – the cityscape below had turned into a green, mountainous, tropical paradise. There were very few high rise buildings, and it reminded me of my time staying in Siem Reap, Cambodia. Immediately, I knew this would be a place I would fall in love with!

Chiang Mai airport was small, and we were through security relatively quickly. We paid the 150 thb fee for a taxi to the hotel, and waited outside for our number to be called. Our driver was Nam, who was lovely; I was personally so impressed with her, that I arranged for her to take us to the Elephant sanctuary on Saturday. She was extremely knowledgeable about the area and just the sort of person to teach us about life in this part of Thailand. I have to feel comfortable with someone in order to employ their services or indeed form a friendship. She wasn't pushy or demanding, just offered to take us out for the entire day at a very reasonable cost - how could I possibly say no!

The Bodhi Serene hotel, our refuge for the next six days, was so different to the one in Bangkok. This hotel was traditional in style, historic in nature and absolutely stunning inside and out. The view from our balcony, of lush vegetation and trees, in complete contrast to Bangkok, was a highlight of our stay at the hotel. The room itself was extremely well appointed, even though it was older in style. The bathroom was modern, with a shower and luxury circular bath; overall, I was very impressed. After just having had my first night's sleep I can also say the bed was comfortable and unlike the Nouvo Hotel, the Bodhi Serene is quiet – you could literally hear a pin drop!

After unpacking and a taking a brief look around the hotel, we went for a stroll to downtown Chiang Mai – this place really did have the feel of Siem Reap, as I mentioned earlier. It even has a central canal/river in the same way. There are religious sites or 'Wats' dotted around this city of two million, and there was a distinct calm and laid back feel about the place. Nobody hassled us to take a tuk tuk ride, or indeed bothered us at all, and it was a joy just taking our time walking around the streets.

Immediately we stumbled across Wat Saimoonmuang, it was so peaceful just passing through this well cared for site, and the temple in the centre was magnificent. This is what I love about Thailand, you never know what you will see. There are hundreds of monuments, statues and Wats all over Chiang Mai, and Wat Saimoonmuang was a superb introduction.

As dinner time approached, we tried to find somewhere to eat. Now, this was no mean task, when you only have a credit card, and hadn’t drawn out any money. As a warning to any potential travellers, Thailand as a rule prefers cash, wherever you are, except in the large shopping malls of Bangkok, so turning up with no money, like us, is a no no.

We did however find a glorious hotel, called the Airniversary Hotel, tucked away at the end of a road which did take cards. In all my years, I had never seen anywhere like it, it was out of the World. This hotel was like a large jungle tree house, surrounded by vegetation. We wound our way up steep wooden steps to the second floor restaurant, where we had a view of the whole establishment. Looking down over our balcony, there was even a koi carp river running through the middle; stunning would be an understatement.

Like most of the Thai restaurants we have been to, the menu was extensive, and the portion sizes huge. I chose a Vietnamese sausage starter, followed by a Penang Curry, which, was, extremely spicy, but delicious. The food, ambience and especially the service was exceptional. We had a lovely chat with a young lad who worked there, who openly talked about his life. I have so far found the people so much more approachable in Chiang Mai, although 'So Samsen' and the young ladies who work there, is still my favourite place to be, as you would expect.

After a traditional desert of Mango sticky rice and a couple of pints of Chiang, we navigated the narrow streets back to the hotel. It looks like this will be a very different leg of our holiday, and I am looking forward to investigating this city more tomorrow. Today I feel surprisingly relaxed, Chiang Mai appears to have a more chilled out feel, which will be a welcome change from the busy streets of Bangkok! The next five days are going to be interesting, and I am eager to explore!

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Wat Pakham Phasi Chareon and Farewell to Bangkok - 11 September 2023!

20/9/2023

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Well, this isn’t what I would have wanted, but my laptop has decided to pack up on me, so I will be writing my blogs each day in ‘safe mode,’ and publishing them when I get home. I am hoping that I will not have to buy a new PC, especially after an expensive holiday, but what will be, will be, and there isn’t much I can do about it. I personally think that a virus has got into the system, whilst connected to the hotel’s open network.

In many respects, not being able to blog whilst on holiday is a challenge for me, it is something I have always done, for the past nine years at least. I will, however, now have an opportunity to enjoy more of my time in Thailand, without having to spend a good portion of it composing and editing my blog.

Yesterday was an eventful one; we took a tuk tuk down to the bridge over the Chao Prayer River and joined a Long tail Boat Canal tour. This wasn’t something I had planned, but when you employ a less than honest tuk tuk driver to take you somewhere, they inevitably take you somewhere else. He was obviously in the employ of the boat charter company, and made a bit of cash on the side. I don’t blame him, we all have to make a living somehow.

The short three-hour boat tour cost us about $90.00 each, which was extremely excessive, when you consider we were just sat on a boat. There was no commentary about our route or the history of the city canals we were visiting. Don't get me wrong I was glad we saw them, but really, there needs to be more organised tours, not a dodgy diversion by a tuk tuk driver on the make!

Standing at the quay side, we were greeted by a long, thin, rickety boat, with barely enough room for two people sat side by side. The orange life jackets sat there looking at us ominously, as I was helped gingerly aboard by the driver, who must have been no more than fifteen; I couldn’t help thinking, what the hell have I got myself into. Nevertheless, I had paid an exorbitant, 3600 thb for this once in a lifetime experience and wasn’t about to back out now.

Within a few minutes we were off at what seemed like break neck speed, smoke bellowing from the back of the long tail boat, which was rocking dangerously side to side. Occasionally the young chap driving would shout out for us to move one way or another, just to keep the boat stabilised and for the most part, we all hung on for dear life - in truth it was quite exhilarating.

Motoring down the large open river, we were passed by larger vessels; the resulting swell caused us to shake violently. As a non-swimmer, I just said a little prayer and hoped for the best. Even when we turned direction into the entrance to the canals that surround the city, the boat fell downwards at such a severe angle, that the side almost touched the water. It was definitely a hair-raising experience and left me feeling rather anxious to say the least.

From the large Choa Prayer river, we entered the canals. Since Bangkok is called the Venice of the East, I had high expectations, which were most certainly not realised. On either side of the canals, there were poor, ramshackled and dilapidated homes, unlike anything I had ever seen. These were poor shanty towns, with no amenities and people fighting to survive. I had seen similar living conditions, when I had visited the floating villages of Tonle Sap, but even they were positively palatial in comparison. Despite the expense, I believe this is something tourists should do; you need to see how real people live and not just take a tour of the many temples or go shopping in Siam Square!

Winding our way around these narrow inlets, you are struck by the contrast of old and new. Yes, there are run down homes, but occasionally, you will see a splendid mansion rising between the debris. Some of these buildings are glorious, but such a rare occurrence along these canals. On either side of the waterway, there are also religious Wats, the vibrant colours of the Thai architecture dancing off the water as you sail past. Old, new, traditional and modern, all laid bare in this microcosm of Thai life – this was the darker side of Bangkok, and not something every tourist sees; I was glad I did, just to understand the makeup of this fascinating society.

We stopped off at Wat Paknam Phasi Chareon, or the Temple of the Golden Buddha. This was the final Wat, we wanted to see in Bangkok, and we weren’t disappointed. This huge, imposing statue of Buddha, just off one of the canals, dominates the skyline for miles around. The sumptuous gold facade glistens strongly in the bright sun, and I was aghast at its sheer size, it was a truly magnificent site.

We spent a brief half an hour walking around this religious site, and the adjoining monastery. It was a serene, beautiful place, even better with the cats wandering around. As you know, Darrell and I are a sucker for cats and just love being around them. At Wat Packnam they are well cared for thankfully, which isn’t always the case.

The site itself is vast and surprisingly very quiet. There were very few tourists about, probably because this statue is off the beaten track and not in the most accessible of areas. I am constantly struck by the number and quality of the monuments and religious sites, yet just how poor the living conditions are that surround these places of worship. There does seem to be a disparity that I personally feel needs to be addressed.

Our journey back was as bumpy as the journey there. Just under the bridge, the same tuk tuk driver was there waiting for us. He tried his hardest to take us to various different venues on the way back to the hotel, to no avail. This is one of their tricks; they offer you a free ride, if you stop off at shops, where they try and persuade you to buy their wares. Having been here twice, I am well aware of their little ways and just told him to go straight back to the hotel. Eventually, he obliged and we arrived back in one piece.

I am angry I didn't have my wits about me when I agreed to this boat trip. Had I known of the tuk tuk driver's intent, I wouldn't have taken this excursion. Having said that, I am glad I saw the run-down nature of the canals. It was an eye-opener for me, used to western comforts; It was also a learning curve to be more careful when choosing a tuk tuk driver in future!

Farewell Bangkok

In the afternoon, we walked up to Khousan Road, where we grabbed another tuk tuk to the city. This little scooters are three times more expensive than a traditional taxi, but they are fast and an absolute joy to ride on. Winding through the streets of Bangkok, avoiding God knows how many near misses, we made it to Siam Square and the main shopping thoroughfare.

Here we spent a few hours walking around the malls and overhead skywalk, just taking in the site and sounds of this vibrant city. I dearly love this place and with this being our last day, we made the most of our time and bid a final farewell to the hectic, eclectic, bustling city, that will always remain in our hearts. This is our go-to place, neutral ground, not Australia nor the UK. This is a place we both chose and will be a city we visit year after year.

Saying goodbye is never easy, so in the evening we went to say goodbye to Aom and the girls at 'So Samsen.' The heavens had opened up, and the rain was tumbling. The streets around the restaurant were still steaming hot and people were making their way out for dinner. 'So Samsen' was packed, and it felt good sat there, even if I was raging inside about my dysfunctional laptop upstairs in the hotel room.

As we make our way onto Chiang Mai, I am looking forward to seeing a new city in Thailand, in the northern part of the country. Despite the change of pace, with Chaing Mai being a more laid back city, I will not forget Bangkok in a hurry. We will not be back next year, because we have plans to visit Japan, but it will always be firmly in our thoughts and recollections, as we continue to make memories all over the World. Bangkok is, and will always be, our most favourite Asian city!