Wat Pakham Phasi Chareon and Farewell to Bangkok - 11 September 2023!

Well, this isn’t what I would have wanted, but my laptop has decided to pack up on me, so I will be writing my blogs each day in ‘safe mode,’ and publishing them when I get home. I am hoping that I will not have to buy a new PC, especially after an expensive holiday, but what will be, will be, and there isn’t much I can do about it. I personally think that a virus has got into the system, whilst connected to the hotel’s open network.

In many respects, not being able to blog whilst on holiday is a challenge for me, it is something I have always done, for the past nine years at least. I will, however, now have an opportunity to enjoy more of my time in Thailand, without having to spend a good portion of it composing and editing my blog.

Yesterday was an eventful one; we took a tuk tuk down to the bridge over the Chao Prayer River and joined a Long tail Boat Canal tour. This wasn’t something I had planned, but when you employ a less than honest tuk tuk driver to take you somewhere, they inevitably take you somewhere else. He was obviously in the employ of the boat charter company, and made a bit of cash on the side. I don’t blame him, we all have to make a living somehow.

The short three-hour boat tour cost us about $90.00 each, which was extremely excessive, when you consider we were just sat on a boat. There was no commentary about our route or the history of the city canals we were visiting. Don't get me wrong I was glad we saw them, but really, there needs to be more organised tours, not a dodgy diversion by a tuk tuk driver on the make!

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Standing at the quay side, we were greeted by a long, thin, rickety boat, with barely enough room for two people sat side by side. The orange life jackets sat there looking at us ominously, as I was helped gingerly aboard by the driver, who must have been no more than fifteen; I couldn’t help thinking, what the hell have I got myself into. Nevertheless, I had paid an exorbitant, 3600 thb for this once in a lifetime experience and wasn’t about to back out now.

Within a few minutes we were off at what seemed like break neck speed, smoke bellowing from the back of the long tail boat, which was rocking dangerously side to side. Occasionally the young chap driving would shout out for us to move one way or another, just to keep the boat stabilised and for the most part, we all hung on for dear life - in truth it was quite exhilarating.

Motoring down the large open river, we were passed by larger vessels; the resulting swell caused us to shake violently. As a non-swimmer, I just said a little prayer and hoped for the best. Even when we turned direction into the entrance to the canals that surround the city, the boat fell downwards at such a severe angle, that the side almost touched the water. It was definitely a hair-raising experience and left me feeling rather anxious to say the least.

From the large Choa Prayer river, we entered the canals. Since Bangkok is called the Venice of the East, I had high expectations, which were most certainly not realised. On either side of the canals, there were poor, ramshackled and dilapidated homes, unlike anything I had ever seen. These were poor shanty towns, with no amenities and people fighting to survive. I had seen similar living conditions, when I had visited the floating villages of Tonle Sap, but even they were positively palatial in comparison. Despite the expense, I believe this is something tourists should do; you need to see how real people live and not just take a tour of the many temples or go shopping in Siam Square!

Winding our way around these narrow inlets, you are struck by the contrast of old and new. Yes, there are run down homes, but occasionally, you will see a splendid mansion rising between the debris. Some of these buildings are glorious, but such a rare occurrence along these canals. On either side of the waterway, there are also religious Wats, the vibrant colours of the Thai architecture dancing off the water as you sail past. Old, new, traditional and modern, all laid bare in this microcosm of Thai life – this was the darker side of Bangkok, and not something every tourist sees; I was glad I did, just to understand the makeup of this fascinating society.

We stopped off at Wat Paknam Phasi Chareon, or the Temple of the Golden Buddha. This was the final Wat, we wanted to see in Bangkok, and we weren’t disappointed. This huge, imposing statue of Buddha, just off one of the canals, dominates the skyline for miles around. The sumptuous gold facade glistens strongly in the bright sun, and I was aghast at its sheer size, it was a truly magnificent site.

We spent a brief half an hour walking around this religious site, and the adjoining monastery. It was a serene, beautiful place, even better with the cats wandering around. As you know, Darrell and I are a sucker for cats and just love being around them. At Wat Packnam they are well cared for thankfully, which isn’t always the case.

The site itself is vast and surprisingly very quiet. There were very few tourists about, probably because this statue is off the beaten track and not in the most accessible of areas. I am constantly struck by the number and quality of the monuments and religious sites, yet just how poor the living conditions are that surround these places of worship. There does seem to be a disparity that I personally feel needs to be addressed.

Our journey back was as bumpy as the journey there. Just under the bridge, the same tuk tuk driver was there waiting for us. He tried his hardest to take us to various different venues on the way back to the hotel, to no avail. This is one of their tricks; they offer you a free ride, if you stop off at shops, where they try and persuade you to buy their wares. Having been here twice, I am well aware of their little ways and just told him to go straight back to the hotel. Eventually, he obliged and we arrived back in one piece.

I am angry I didn't have my wits about me when I agreed to this boat trip. Had I known of the tuk tuk driver's intent, I wouldn't have taken this excursion. Having said that, I am glad I saw the run-down nature of the canals. It was an eye-opener for me, used to western comforts; It was also a learning curve to be more careful when choosing a tuk tuk driver in future!

Farewell Bangkok

In the afternoon, we walked up to Khousan Road, where we grabbed another tuk tuk to the city. This little scooters are three times more expensive than a traditional taxi, but they are fast and an absolute joy to ride on. Winding through the streets of Bangkok, avoiding God knows how many near misses, we made it to Siam Square and the main shopping thoroughfare.

Here we spent a few hours walking around the malls and overhead skywalk, just taking in the site and sounds of this vibrant city. I dearly love this place and with this being our last day, we made the most of our time and bid a final farewell to the hectic, eclectic, bustling city, that will always remain in our hearts. This is our go-to place, neutral ground, not Australia nor the UK. This is a place we both chose and will be a city we visit year after year.

Saying goodbye is never easy, so in the evening we went to say goodbye to Aom and the girls at 'So Samsen.' The heavens had opened up, and the rain was tumbling. The streets around the restaurant were still steaming hot and people were making their way out for dinner. 'So Samsen' was packed, and it felt good sat there, even if I was raging inside about my dysfunctional laptop upstairs in the hotel room.

As we make our way onto Chiang Mai, I am looking forward to seeing a new city in Thailand, in the northern part of the country. Despite the change of pace, with Chaing Mai being a more laid back city, I will not forget Bangkok in a hurry. We will not be back next year, because we have plans to visit Japan, but it will always be firmly in our thoughts and recollections, as we continue to make memories all over the World. Bangkok is, and will always be, our most favourite Asian city!

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