Blog Posts - Roaming Brit

From a new life in spain, to an old life in britain, 'roaming brit' documents uncertain times!

On 31st January 2016, my partner and I left Southampton to start a new life as Expats in Gran Alacant, on the Costa Blanca. This blog will document our journey, as we navigate the Spanish system, travelling a path untried and untested. With Brexit looming, political turmoil in Europe and an unpredictable future, harsh decisions have to be made. Illness, family bonds and a Change of heart all make for challenging times in a life of a 'Roaming Brit!'

Goodbye to Podgora!

12/9/2022

Just a quick blog today as we are both packing for our onward journey to London and Thailand. We booked a car yesterday to take us from London Gatwick to London Heathrow; Darrell and I do not want to be running for a coach or changing several trains to get from one part of the capital to the other, especially after the death of The Queen, so a car seemed like the best option. To be honest the coach would have cost us £60.00, and I managed to book a car with 'Great British Cars,' for £70.00; a no-brainer really. I need to get to the hotel at Heathrow as soon as possible, so I can meet a friend in London, to pay my respects to The late Queen; time just isn't on our side.

We had a fairly relaxing day yesterday, with a spot of lunch at Ankora, our favourite restaurant in Makarska and a trip to Podgora in the evening, so Darrell could say goodbye to his Cousins Zana and Zorko. We had the perfect few hours sat in their company, at the family home, and they cooked us a lovely meal; we chatted about our plans for the next few months ahead and family at home in Australia.

Saying goodbye to Podgora is always hard, it is my favourite part of Dalmatia. I could just spend hours sat there in one of the many local tavernas, relaxing, having a drink or two and just contemplating life. We haven't made any firm plans to return, at the moment, but certainly wish to, possibly during this year off. Croatian hospitality is always a delight, I have always been welcomed with open arms and made to feel part of Darrell's family; that has been important for me. Without the love they have shown, I don't think we would have returned here so many times.

We have just a few hours left now and lots to do before our flight tomorrow. I am looking forward to the second leg of our journey, and hope our time is as memorable, as it has been here. We are of course flying into the monsoon season in Thailand, but with temperatures still at 35 degrees on average, we can be sure of an interesting stay. I hope to do another update tomorrow in London, but it will depend very much on the time I have. For now, it's time to sign out and look forward to an eventful day in London tomorrow.

Biokovo National Park!

11/9/2022

After a coffee at Makarska beach in the morning, we returned home, where Marin was cooking Sea Bass. I have rarely eaten fish in the UK, mainly because whoever I have lived with doesn't like it, especially Darrell. However, Marin wanted to try out a new recipe - Sea bass with lemon and rosemary, baked in salt. I have seen something similar before on the internet, but was unsure how it actually worked in practice.

Marin bought 4 kg of salt and mixed it with egg white, laying a bed of the mixture on a baking tray, where he placed the fish, stuffed with the rosemary and lemon. Finally, he covered the fish with the rest of the blend and placed in the oven at 200 degrees, baking for 35 minutes. Once cooked, the salt was chipped away and the fish was cooked perfectly. Personally, I have never tasted fish like it, it was fantastic - a subtle taste with a glorious rosemary fragrance and so moist.

Darrell, who can't stand seafood, had his own dish prepared, but if I am honest, I think he would have loved it. The taste was so delicate, it could have been anything. As Marin said to me, fish really shouldn't have a strong smell and if it does, it means it isn't fresh. There was absolutely no strong fish aroma at all, making it as fresh as the day it was caught.

After lunch, we drove to Biokovo Nature Park, which has the third-highest mountain in Dalmatia. Once again, I can't stress how difficult it is for me to do heights at all, let alone such a tall mountain. It is a measure of how relaxed I feel here, to manage to go up the narrow mountain roads in the first place. The last time I undertook such a journey, was when Darrell and I went to Sorrento in Italy, but even then the heights involved were nowhere near what they are in Croatia.

The rugged landscape was really otherworldly, quite desolate and stark at times, with heavy forested areas on occasion. The air was also particularly thin, and it was quite difficult to catch one's breath, but the stunning vista as we climbed ever higher was a treat, and I am so glad I went.

At the very top of Biokovo Mountain sits the Skywalk, a glass walk way that protrudes out from the mountain side, with a sheer anxiety inducing drop below. I have seen the photographs and a video of it, but when we got to the crest of the mountain, I decided not to walk on it. It turns my stomach just thinking about it, and I know even Darrell was nervous. Nevertheless, he did make a valiant attempt with his cousin, who took the photographs I have included below. I've only got to look at them and feel weak at the knees, so I can't even imagine how he felt.

As we made our way back down the mountain, we stopped to see the native wildlife, flora and fauna. There were a few isolated residences up there, but in the main there were wild horses, who we were warned not to go too close to, mountain goats and cows. They were all living in perfect harmony, along with a large colony of bees near the summit. There was very little greenery to speak of, but for these animals to survive up so high, there must be sufficient food.

Making our way further down the pass, we entered a wooded area, with equally spectacular views. The evergreen/pine trees were a sight to behold, framing the blue sea beyond perfectly. The trees were a welcome break from the heat of the day, as we walked for an hour in the early evening sun. By the time we had descended to the relative seclusion of the forest, my anxiety had all but disappeared and despite still being up higher than I have ever been before, I felt comfortable in an environment I would have found alien only a few short weeks ago. If I am feeling relaxed and chilled, then I am clearly in the right place for me at the moment.

It was a lovely afternoon spent with Darrell and his Cousin, just walking and chatting, but as we reached the very bottom, I was mindful of the short time we have left here, which, if I am honest, makes me sad. Our Croatian family are always so welcoming and sincere, it has always been a wrench leaving, but leave we must, and we need to spend as much quality time with them as we can, before we fly to our next destination, Thailand, continuing our Lifestyle break

The Blue Lake, Imotski!

10/9/2022

Heights are not my favourite thing, in fact I will always go out of my way to avoid them, so travelling to The Blue Lake in Imotski was a real challenge. Standing at the top of one of the largest craters I have even seen, looking out at the view in front of me, was pretty scary. Just looking down at the valley below gave me vertigo, so you can imagine my horror, when Cousin Marin suggested we walk down to the bottom to view the lake and then come up again.

The heat was extreme as I made my way down the precarious limestone terraces, towards the partially dried up lake. I had the wrong type of shoes on and slipped most of the way, one wrong footing and I would have flown over the narrow edge and into the abyss below. Still, I persevered enough to make my way down, unable to reach the very bottom, due to the lack of a suitable pathway. The rocky incline was just too much, but I was happy to have made it down ninety percent of the way.

Sat there, looking back at the distance I had just walked, I panicked as I saw the treacherous climb to come. Going back up towards the summit was an even worse challenge, as I left Marin and Darrell and clumsily made my way to the top, trying not to look back. To be honest, it must have been a bit of a sight, as I clung on for dear life, at times grabbing hold of whatever I could to steady my footing. Trying to find something to grip isn't as easy as you think. Most of the rock was loose, and as soon as I thought I had a tight hold, it would give way and the rock would come tumbling down.

By the time I reached the peak I was exhausted, hot and sweating profusely. I sat for just a moment at the summit, trying to catch my breath, looking down at the half a kilometre drop I had just climbed. That was a hell of a walk, unlike anything I had done before, and I was proud of myself for even attempting to do it. Nevertheless, I was glad to be back at the top, sat in an air-conditioned car, heading for lunch.

We had lunch at The Hotel Venesia in Imotski; the views from the restaurant were amazing, just like a framed picture in the background as we ate. I could have sat there hours, just looking at the rolling countryside, which despite the heat here in Croatia was extremely green and lush, unlike the UK, where everything died during the recent drought.

The food at this three-star Hotel was actually fantastic value for money. I paid about £90.00 for the four of us to eat and drink. It included T Bone Steaks and chicken, Pork in a paprika sauce, salad, chips, desert and drinks. This would of course been more expensive along the coast in Makarska, and I am still shocked at how much the prices have increased here in general, but this was still a great price, compared to Britain, and would be a place I would like to visit again.

In the evening Darrell and I took another long walk into Makarska, so I could try and lose some of that weight I had just put on, after the meal in Imotski. We went to the Bolero Cocktail bar along the beach and spent a lovely few hours relaxing. Both of us had a cocktail or two, although at a cost of £40.00 it wasn't cheap. Things have really shot up in price since the pandemic, that is noticeable at every level, but it was well worth it, just being able to unwind and do something we wouldn't otherwise do.

We have a few days, yet, before we leave for London and then Thailand, but this stopover in Croatia has been a welcome break for the both of us. Thailand is going to be far more hectic than here, so these twelve days in Hrvatska have been a Godsend. A few drinks in Bolero was the perfect end to a wonderful, but tiring day. As I put my feet up back at the apartment, I felt my eyes almost immediately close; that's when you know you've had a good day!

Queen Elizabeth II - A lifetime of service and duty!

9/9/2022

Last night, while sat in a café, along the marina in Makarska, I heard the news that Queen Elizabeth II had died. It is difficult to describe the emotion I felt at that time, but along with most of Britain, I was devastated, overwhelmed and inconsolable with grief at her irreplaceable loss. Unless you are British, a member of the Commonwealth or a citizen of one of the fifteen countries where she was still head of state, you really can't understand the deep sadness we all feel at this time. This lady was the constant in my life, and she will no longer be there.

Readers of this blog are well aware of my feelings towards Monarchy, the Royal Family and The Queen. I have and will always remain its biggest champion and supporter, from wherever I am in the World. Currently, I am travelling around the globe and will only be in Britain briefly next week for a couple of days, but that doesn't make the love I feel for the late Queen any less. She was the greatest public servant we have ever had, and we will never see her like again. Like most people, I still remain shocked at her passing, and it will take me a long time to accept she has gone.

My unwavering support for the Queen was born from reading and understanding her role over many years. I understood the importance of her place in the structure of British life and the respect and regard she was given by everyone who knew her. This was a woman who had served during World War II, and had been in situ during a time of great change and upheaval. She was a voice of reason, wisdom and understanding and was universally respected across the world. Queen Elizabeth was quite simply a living piece of history, the last great link to a past littered with turmoil and turbulence. At those moments in history, when the World was on the brink, Queen Elizabeth stood tall as a bastion of hope, respect and calm. She was the bond that held all of us together in times of conflict, and the Head of State of the greatest democracy in the world.

We all lost a Grandmother yesterday and feel the pain of her family and a nation left stronger by her presence over 70 years. I look back to her dignity and grace, especially at times of crisis, and I will remember with the highest regard an affection a life given in service of her nation. As our new King Charles III ascends the throne, I also offer my unwavering support. Keeping the legacy of his Mother alive is the most important epitaph we can afford the late Queen Elizabeth II. Today I will light a candle in the local church here, in memory of her, and will remember her importance to me, as an unwavering beacon of hope in a world so divided and fractious. The Queen is no longer with us as we navigate our way through life, but her memory will linger a lifetime, and her legacy will continue to shine bright! God Save the King!

A Day of Reflection and Remembrance!

9/9/2022

Friday was a day of reflection for me, as news of The Queen's death began to sink in. I wasn't feeling my usual self and wanted to spend the day quietly. My mood was distinctly melancholy as I walked with Darrell down to the beaches at Makarska. Once again we walked our, 10000 steps, only this time, a little more measured, avoiding the mountain passes and forested areas around this town.

On the way into the centre, we stopped at Franjevacki Samostan, a religious sanctuary in Makarska. I said a short prayer for the late Queen, spending time contemplating, looking around at the beautiful architecture and peacefully remembering my connection to The Queen and just what she meant to me. I am by no means a religious person, but I am deeply spiritual; I suppose you could call me an agnostic rather than an atheist. This was the perfect place to gather my thoughts and take time for myself.

I was expecting rain when I awoke in the morning, but luckily it held off for the duration of the day. After walking along the promenade, I sat quite happily in local restaurant Ankora, taking in the views, remembering Her Majesty, while Darrell swam in the sea. This is a holiday both of us have needed for many reasons, but the thought of death has given this trip away new meaning. It does feel very strange not being home in the UK at this time, in fact it makes it feel less real than it really is, but, Darrell and I have always seemed to either be away, or in unusual circumstances, when these great moments occur.

After a light brunch, we both gently walked back to the apartment where we are staying, where I caught up with the latest news back home. It feels very strange having a new King and the constant references to Charles III by newsreaders, just doesn't seem real. When the new King addressed the nation last night, the penny finally dropped. Charles was the new Father of the nation, and I felt sad for the journey he now has to follow, without his Mother by his side.

In the evening, after an early lunch, Cousin Marin drove me to Vepric Church, just outside Makarska on the way to Split. This unusual church built into a cave was unlike anything I had ever seen. There were people sitting quietly, others were crying and all the while a Priest was talking in front of an alter in Croatian, so I have no idea what was being said. From what Marin explained, these people had lost someone close, and they were there in remembrance of their life.

We went to a small office at the side of the alter and purchased a candle and when the stage was clear walked up and lit it, saying a short prayer for The Queen. I left, turning briefly, looking back, feeling satisfied I had done what I could to remember The Queen's passing. It was such a momentous couple of days in my life, that marking this historic event was important. I may well be travelling the World currently, but that doesn't mean I can't share the grief of my Country. The change the Monarch's death has brought, echoes similar upheaval in my life at the moment; it was apt it happened when it did. Life will continue in very much the same vein; this crazy World may well have got just a little bit crazier, but it's up to us to continue living in the moment, as Darrell and I will continue to do!

Poluotok Osejava!

8/9/2022

Yesterday, before the death of Queen Elizabeth broke, Darrell and I went for a long two-hour amble around Poluotok Osejava, the Osejava Peninsular. We followed a well trodden path on the opposite side of St Peter's Peninsular, where we rambled the day before. It has been my aim to keep my weight in check, not over eat or drink and continue to keep fit. When I weighed myself this morning, I had lost another kilo, making it nearly two and a half kilo's in total. The walking here is truly amazing, it is the perfect place to take in the scenery and stay healthy, enjoying the Makarska Riviera in its full glory.

This expedition around the World has begun to take on new meaning for me after the death of The Queen. I am sad not to be in the United Kingdom at the moment, as my nation mourns, but it makes it even more poignant to remember our late sovereign as I explore different parts of the globe. Now, more than ever, her legacy is on my mind. Being away from Britain, has made me realise just how important she was to me.

As I strolled along the sea front yesterday, stopping briefly for a beer or two, admiring the view, the World seemed perfect, my life had purpose and I felt happy and content to be enjoying my time away. Within a few short hours, everything changed, and The Queen was dead.

It does seem wrong to be enjoying myself under these circumstances, but what else can I do? Life does go on, and we all have to make the best of what happens next. This was the last day before the world stopped spinning, the last day living under Queen Elizabeth II and this was the last time I would feel a sense of calm, before Her Majesty died.

I will of course mourn her death in my own way and will continue on my journey. However, my travels will take on new significance as I remember my Monarch and cherish the memories of her reign. I am glad I was in Croatia yesterday as I heard the news, surrounded by family and loved ones; the consideration they gave me was beyond measure. Today I remember a long life served, and respect the memory of the most enigmatic, hard-working, dutiful public servant, the World has ever known!

St Peter's Peninsular!

7/9/2022

The trouble with going on holiday, is you put on weight; good food and wine all contribute to that ever-growing waist line. For me, piling on the pounds is easy. I only have to look at food, and I get bigger. We have decided to do a long walk each morning to keep us as fit and healthy as possible. When I was working at Tesco, I would do, on average, fifteen thousand steps a day, so I need to do at least ten thousand to keep the weight off, especially when I am having a beer or two each day.

On Wednesday we walked from Darrell's Cousin's flat in the East of Makarska to the town centre, following the St Peter's Peninsular trail, across the mountains and down into the marina. As you walk along the cliff side, you are struck by the amazing views, everywhere you look. I was in awe of the landscape; it really is absolutely breathtaking. The walk can be quite treacherous at times, especially with the erosion along the tourist pathways, but the panorama, makes it worthwhile. Most people who come here, just sit in a bar and drink, and although I do that myself on occasion, I am also finding my feet once again and experiencing the diverse topography that makes this part of Croatia, so unique!

As we finished our walk at the monument of St Peter, overlooking Makarska harbour, I just stood looking over the bay, sun glistening, bouncing off the yachts, dancing in the heat of the day. It was a beautiful sight. Standing there, with my hands on the chain link fence, adorned with padlocks, I suddenly felt at one with myself. This is the life I was born to live, but sadly am unable to afford. Still, it is nice to dip in and out of this gorgeous country at will and return when we are able. Yes, I was tired by the end of the walk, but the vista made it all worthwhile. I have been to most places in the UK, but nothing resembles the dramatic terrain that Croatia is famous for!

Once again, in the evening, we went to Podgora to see family. While Darrell swam, I made my way to the end of the promenade, just soaking up the atmosphere. Stopping occasionally, I sat for a while having a drink, just looking out to sea. Podgora is a place to sit quietly and think, contemplate life and make plans for the future, it always has been. It is akin to paradise on Earth, when you compare it with the UK, but it is more than that, it is a connection to family that we wouldn't otherwise have.

It warmed my heart to see Darrell spending time with his kin folk in Podgora; arm around his Cousin Zana, swimming with others he hasn't seen for so long, these are precious moments for him, as we both travel to Australia. Furthermore, it is important now, more than ever, that he takes the time to be with all those closest. We are still here for the next six days, so we need to be with them as much as possible. Podgora is the backbone of Darrell's family and the reason we return over and over again. I am glad everyone here has played an important part in my lifestyle break, and hope to see them once again as my year draws to a close.

The Croatian Island of Hvar!

6/9/2022

On Tuesday morning, we took the TP Line Catamaran to the beautiful island of Hvar in the Adriatic Sea. The boat left Makarska at 8.30 am and took approximately two hours to journey to this large Croatian island. Half way, we stopped at the smaller, less well known island of Bol, famous for its stunning beach. The sea was calm and the boat less than half full, so all in all, it was a pleasant journey; in fact the trip was so relaxing, I fell asleep several times, with the gentle rocking motion of the boat. At a cost of 600 kuna, or £69.00, it wasn't a cheap excursion, but after arriving at Hvar Port, I can safely say it was worth every penny!

Walking around the small, narrow, cobbled streets of Hvar, you are transported back in time. To say the place is picturesque would be an understatement, it is seriously other wordly. The buildings are perfectly preserved and nestle alongside modern hotels, up and down the length of the harbour seamlessly. Crowds of tourists, disembarking from the seemingly endless supply of ships and ferries, fight valiantly for their share of the promenade, making their way towards their final destination. Meanwhile, the great and good of Europe sit sipping champagne on their very large, expensive yachts moored in the marina. Rich and poor mingle together in a melting pot of cultures, all there to experience the delights of this jewel in the Adriatic Sea.

It was an exceptionally hot day on the island, 35 degrees and rising, but we decided to make our way to up to Hvar Fort at the top of the mountain. This is highly unusual for me, since I detest heights, but I have been feeling particularly good within myself lately, since arriving, so gave it a go. To my absolute surprise I thoroughly enjoyed it. The walk was extremely tiring, but the views were stunning the further up the mountain we walked.

Standing at the top of the fortress overlooking Hvar Harbour, I was absolutely taken aback by the views, they were to die for. I could have stayed there for hours just looking at the scenery, but the heat was getting stronger by the minute, so we took shelter in the bar at the top of the mountain, where we chatted for a while. This is what holidays are all about, being able to do things you wouldn't otherwise do, visiting places you have never seen before. This is only the second time we have visited one of the many islands in Croatia, the first one being the late Marshall Tito's personal Island, Brijuni, which we loved, and once again we weren't disappointed.

From the Fortress, we made our way back down to the town below, where we had lunch in Kogo Pizzeria in the square. The food was delicious enough; the only time I eat pizza is when I am in a specialist restaurant, who know just how to make it properly. Frozen pizza from a supermarket just isn't for me, and tastes nothing like the authentic Italian staple.

What I have noticed in Croatia is just how expensive everything is in 2022. The last time we were in this part of the world, in 2014, prices were probably half what they are now, so for two pints, a small bowl of olives and two pizzas we paid a hefty £50.00. Not too bad on English standards, but a huge hike in Croatia. I can only assume that the pandemic and the war in Ukraine has pushed prices up dramatically. Equally, the service wasn't as good as it could have been; the olives were too hard, there was no bread for the table as there always should be and there was little in the way of accompaniments. I really shouldn't have been too surprised about this, especially because we were in a large tourist area. There is no real need to give great service when you don't have to fight for customers.

After lunch, we walked to the opposite side of the island, following a designated coastal walk. The weather was just perfect, as we took in yet more spectacular views. Hvar is clearly popular with holidaymakers, especially the young, under thirty years old. There were many more younger people there, than people of mine and Darrell's age, and it did have a distinctly youthful vibe.

By now we only had a few hours left before the catamaran returned to take us home, so we headed towards the BB Club, right on the edge of the marina, for a few well-earned beers. This was the most expensive bar we have been to yet, where prices were comparable to British prices. The beer arrived warm after a forty-minute wait and was only three quarters full, since most of the head had disappeared. This is not a place I will be returning to. Despite the relaxing atmosphere, overlooking the bay, I found the waiters extremely rude and had absolutely no customer service skills at all. No matter how much I enjoyed visiting Hvar, I just found everything else totally below par. This is clearly part of the course when you visit popular tourist attractions, but it shouldn't be. Unless people like me complain, things will never change - my advice, vote with your feet.

All in all, Darrell and I had a memorable day in Hvar. I would like to visit more islands in the future when we have time to return, but at least I am taking some wonderful memories with me on my travels. Don't be put off by the bad service in Hvar, I'm sure it's not universal; we may well have just picked the wrong restaurants and bars. Go along for yourselves and make your own minds up. You should go for the experience more than anything, and in the main it was a positive one for us.

Makarska!

5/9/2022

On Monday, we went into Makarska; it has been a long time since we were last here, so we wanted to reacquaint ourselves with this large town on the Dalmatian Coast. It has changed little over the years, but it does seem far more quiet than I remember. Of course, after the pandemic, I would expect nothing less. It feels like there is only a trickle of tourists at the moment, but we have arrived at the tail end of the season, when most people are heading home, if they haven't done so already. However, it was no loss for me, the fewer holidaymakers the better.

It was an extremely hot day, as we sat drinking coffee in Romana Café along the promenade. This was the first time I've been here, and it was nice, sat chatting with family, watching the World pass by. Our Croatian Cousin, Marin, pointed out a famous football player, Alen Boksic, who was sat in the corner of the café under the television, apparently he played for Middlesborough and was particularly well known in his time. I had absolutely no idea who he was talking about; I suppose it's a man thing, just not on my radar!

Vlatka is heavily pregnant with twins, so after Romana, we left her in another local air-conditioned café, where she could relax while Darrell and I went for a walk, around the market stalls near the beach. From there we walked the short distance to the harbour, which was teeming with boats and small yachts. Makarska is predominantly a tourist destination and a port where ferries leave to take visitors to the many islands that make up Croatia, but it is also a working harbour, where local people strive to make a living. Architecturally and spiritually, Makarska always reminds me of Italy and a style of building I am comfortable with. This would be my ideal place to live, but as Darrell and I know all too well, it will never happen; Brexit has put pay to that!

Meandering around the small marina, I was struck by how beautiful Makarska is. Surrounded by limestone mountains, the scenery is simply breathtaking. It feels very much like the Swiss and Austrian Alps; navigating the coastline, taking in the sights and sounds, is an unforgettable experience. Croatia, as a country, never ceases to amaze me, just when you think you have seen everything, there is something even more wondrous around the next corner. This is the same for Makarska, it never disappoints and never lets you down, that is what keeps me coming back, time and time again!

As the afternoon became hotter, Darrell and I walked back to where Vlatka was sitting and made our way home for lunch and a rest. The heat does take its toll on you, but I am getting used to it once again and to be honest I am coping far better than Darrell. The older I get, the more I appreciate the sun; even after a few days, my usual aches and pains have disappeared, and I am once again feeling top of the World. The climate suits me far better now at my time of life; I need to feel the sun on my skin.

In the evening we drove to Podgora where Darrell went swimming, and I sat leisurely in a local restaurant. Eating a mushroom omelette and drinking a pint of Croatian beer, overlooking the fishing harbour, I felt at peace once again, something I haven't been feeling in the UK for a long time. Podgora is my second home, and the calming nature of the village is great for my sense of wellbeing. If I am completely honest mind you, I have been drinking a little too much beer over these last few days and need to reign myself back in. I can feel the pounds beginning to pile on, and that isn't what I need right now.

As the day drew to a close, Darrell and I walked slowly to his Cousin's house, just off the main thoroughfare, and had yet another beer with family before heading the short distance home. Chatting well past midnight, it was lovely just being in the company of loved ones, sharing ideas, talking about the future and enjoying some well deserved quality time. This is the reason we came to Croatia, and it does feel good to be a part of such a loving family unit. It is perfect spending time in such a special place, with those 'to die for' scenic views, but it is more than that, it is also a connection to Darrell's heritage and the positive influence it has on both our lives. As the sun set over the mountains, leaving a faint red glow, I felt content being home again and happy to be at one with myself, still trying to find that person I am inside.

Home to Podgora!

4/9/2022

Our first full day began with a trip to Podgora, Darrell's family's village along the Dalmatian Coast. This beautiful fishing village is about 8 km from Makarska, where we are staying, but is worlds apart in terms of size. Makarska is the larger of the two, the size of a medium size town, whereas the sleepy, laid back feel of Podgora, still prevails, as you walk around its streets.

Darrell and I have been to Podgora many times before, first going there to stay with family in 2008. It hasn't changed much in the intervening years, but the number of tourists have certainly increased, making this a popular destination. There is one aspect of the village that has changed, however, and that is the original settlement at the top of the mountain that surrounds it. This ancient town was destroyed by an earthquake in the 1960s, and was rebuilt by the then communist government at the base of the mountain shortly afterwards. Although some buildings are perfectly preserved, the majority of the village that you see today was mainly constructed after the quake. The original village at the top of the incline, is, however, being rebuilt and bares no resemblance to what we first saw back in 2008. The renovation and reconstruction is truly amazing to see; expensive real estate litters the mountain side and is a far cry from the ruins we saw 14 years ago!

Darrell's family own hotels and guest houses in Podgora and as one walks around the pretty streets, you could be forgiven for thinking everyone in the village is related to him. The feel is distinctly warm and welcoming, a sign of local village life at its finest. I have always felt very much at home when I am here in Dalmatia, embracing his family, enjoying my time exploring this little piece of heaven and learning to wind down, finally taking a step back from the stress of life.

Yesterday we visited his Cousins Zorko and Zana and attended his great Aunts grave at the top of the mountain, overlooking the sea. It really is a perfect spot, situated in a magnificent setting surrounded by native flora and fauna. Darrell looks happy to be home, and who can blame him. As much as I love the UK, it really can't compare to Dalmatia and the stunning Adriatic coastline. As I quietly walked around the cemetery, the thought of war in Ukraine, not too far from here, popped into my head. Cousin Marin mentioned how he hoped conflict would never again reach these shores, but judging on past Croatian history, it is likely it could happen again.

From the cemetery, we walked along the mountainside picking figs and admiring the view, which just seemed to get more breathtaking around each corner. Near to the old village church, we stumbled upon an old communist era memorial from 1949. It commemorated World War II and the bravery of those who fought the fascists. It was great having Cousin Marin with us, translating the text. (See video above) I suppose I was a little surprised to see these communist monuments still in situ, but the sentiment, communist or otherwise, is still the same. As someone who loves history, I enjoyed seeing this small tribute to the fallen. All war is wrong, and we could do well to remember that, as the war in Europe continues.

We walked along Kralja Petra Krešimira in Podgora, towards the beach bar at the end of the strip, where we sat and drunk coffee and a beer. This was the first time I could truly kick off my heels and relax, looking out along the peninsula towards Tučepi. This is the aspect of Croatian life I miss, it really is a far more relaxing way of life. With the World at our feet now, I hope very much we both return here during my lifestyle break, if only to see family again.

After a typical Croatian meal of Punjena Paprika in the afternoon, we were invited to a small neighbourhood gathering, where I ate more meat than I ever have done in my life. They really love their protein here, and it's easy to see why. Most meat is fresh and organically raised and tastes out of this world. This certainly isn't a place to be Vegan or vegetarian, which luckily suits me down to the ground.

I have once again been amazed by Croatian hospitality, as we have quickly settled into local life. It has always been a joy to be back in this part of the World, and I am thankful we chose to come back before we head to Thailand. It may well be a while before we can return here again, but here's hoping it's sooner rather than later, as we head into the second day of our stay!

Punjena Paprika