Asian Adventure - Angkor Wat, 13 May 2019!

'Nary, our host at breakfast is a delight, although the language barrier brings its own challenges, she is accommodating and charming. Tomorrow, my Aunt and I hope to get our eggs cooked, just the way we want them!'

Sat on the veranda of this French colonial hotel, fan oscillating gently, in the morning breeze, I am struck by the faded grandeur that surrounds me. The breakfast room, to the left of our table, is richly decorated and beautifully presented. Like Nary all the staff are well dressed and very attentive, everyone doing their best to speak English and make us feel comfortable, as we sip our fresh orange juice and eat our Cambodian breakfast.  Sitting in this hotel I feel relaxed, chilling in a setting perfect for enjoying some much needed 'me time,' concentrating on nothing more than the tropical gardens surrounding this stunning hotel!

At 9am my Aunt and I met Thomas, our tuk tuk driver from yesterday, a few yards down the road from our hotel. He was taking us to one of the greatest wonders of the World, Angkor Wat. According to Thomas, there are nearly three hundred temples in the complex and it would be impossible to see all of them in one day. This 12th century Cambodian landmark, was the reason my Aunt and I chose to come to Cambodia and it was something I was looking forward to seeing.

At at cost of $37 US, the day pass isn't cheap, but as anyone who has been to Angkor Wat knows, this is the highlight of any visit. These amazing religious monoliths, magnificent in their majesty are a testimony to mans ingenuity and ability to create the impossible. To be honest I really didn't know what to expect; photographs and videos from the internet never really do justice to places like this, so I was anticipating something spectacular and I wasn't disappointed!

The first and largest temple we visited called 'Angkor Wat' was truly awe inspiring. I have never seen anything like it, it was a deeply humbling experience. As we drove up to the entrance we were greeted by thousands and thousands of people, all heading towards a long temporary  pier like structure connecting us with this Hindu, now Buddhist monument. This first temple is situated in the middle of a large man made lake, surrounded by water. The usual walkway is no longer accessible, having been closed due to crumbling stone, no longer fit for purpose and we joined the long queue of pilgrims, all heading towards the walls of this building and the inner sanctum beyond.

The heat of the day was scorching, as we walked through the tall archway and the buildings inside. We were welcomed by open grounds, trees, vegetation and the wonderful symmetrical facade of the main temple itself. Dotted around were smaller, but no less magnificent stone buildings, surrounded by crowds trying to get the best picture. Unable to appreciate their full beauty, because of the sheer numbers of people, we joined the long line of visitors heading to the religious heart of the complex.

The architecture contained within the interior fabric of the Khmer temple was astonishing, bewildering and surprising. I remember looking up towards the sky, the structure shimmering around me, tall, powerful and a statement to the religion it was built to celebrate. Everywhere one looked, one was bombarded by the might of what is the biggest religious complex in the World. I was witnessing history, touching stone nearly a thousand years old and for the most part left open mouthed at the resplendence around me. I had never seen anything so glorious before and would remember this day for the rest of my life!

In every corner and alcove devout buddhists celebrated their faith. Walking back through the temple itself we were welcomed by icons and statues dressed in traditional clothing, offerings of food at their feet, incense burning sweetly and prayers being said. A buddhist monk knelt down, surrounded by a congregation and quietly chanted in an atmosphere that I can only describe as emotional, touching and poignant.

As we left the confines of the chambers inside Angkor Wat, walking outside, I was overcome with the heat that was growing stronger by the minute. Looking at my phone, a warm 36 degrees was recorded and I was left with a little message, from my modern day app, in this ancient place, telling me to keep hydrated. Both of us headed towards some temporary stalls, where water was being sold and consumed as much as we could. My Aunt was feeling a little disorientated as was I, but taking a look back over my shoulder, I was  reverential in my appreciation for this deeply moving place.

We continued on our journey with Thomas in his tuk tuk. There were ancient symbols everywhere, too many to mention. Monuments at the side of the road, one after the other. We stopped briefly to take in the sites. Locals and visitors feeding monkeys sat in trees, a small child with his head bowed low, in front of a statue and tourists eating a packed lunch, sat on the banks of the moat. Angkor Wat is a deeply ingrained part of Cambodian culture, so much so,  that the subjects of this kingdom are proud of its symbolism. The fact this temple complex is pictured on the national flag, is testimony to the importance of its place in Cambodian society and tradition and rightly so!

We continued towards the West gate and Elephant Terrace, with ornate carvings and elephants passing slowly by, then onward to the famous  Ta Prohm at Angkor Thom, used in the filming of 'Tomb Raider.'  This was a part of Angkor Wat I was looking forward to seeing and was delighted to experience it first hand. There was however a touch of disappointment in this most famous of buildings. It was terribly run down, crumbling stone pillars strewn across the grounds and a feeling of decline and decay everywhere one looked. I felt sad at the scene before me and hoped that this dereliction could be reversed.

After a photo opportunity outside the most famous building at Ta Prohm, we left for Siem Reap. As we departed I felt reassured by  sign posts placed around this famous temple, noting impending reconstruction and restoration. It is important that Ta Prohm is preserved for future generations, so they can enjoy the wonders that I witnessed today!

Thomas charged us $30 US for the trip to Angkor Wat and we tipped him $10 US on top. He was rather pushy for want of a better word, trying to get us to go on another trip with him the next day. Like all tuk tuk drivers, he has a family to feed, needing the work during the less lucrative spring months. We told him we would not be using him the day after which he took rather personally as we found out the next day. I would choose your tour guide wisely and don't give in to unreasonable demands for sympathy. Thomas was a great driver, but he wasn't the person we thought he was.

Our four hour expedition to the temples was exhausting, the weather was hot and we were glad to be heading back to our hotel. The only downside to this trip was the amount of people at Angkor Wat, it did ruin the experience in many respects. However as we later discovered, this was a national holiday, all part of the King of Cambodia's Birthday and there were a lot more people out and about than usual. Angkor Wat was unforgettable; this would be a place I would love to visit again one day, until then, I do at least have the memories to take with me!

We had a delicious lunch at Viva, near Pub Street, a Khmer and Mexican restaurant -  The food was delicious. As I sat there looking across the street, I saw a rather large black rat, sitting at the crossing waiting for the cars to stop, before crossing. This was an intelligent rat, who clearly knew his way around the streets of Siem Reap and a reminder that we were in a country far removed from home. Keeping our wits about us, was essential; any slip up, eating in the wrong place or using the local public conveniences could have cost us dear; luckily we followed the rules!

In the evening we headed back to Pub Street, sitting in the now vibrant district having a few beers, dodging kamikaze insects. Pub Street was alive with tourists and locals selling spiders and snakes, deep fried on sticks. After deliberating for a bit, we decided against trying the local delicacy. This was one side of Cambodia I wanted to avoid. According to the street vendor they tasted like peanuts with a similar texture; this just put me off even more. Even the poor woman in this photo looks distressed at what she is about to eat and who can blame her. For Cambodians however, this is good honest street food, full of protein and part of the Cambodian diet, especially with meat being so expensive....Who am I to judge!

....and finally, to end another amazing day a trip to Miss Wongs, a local gay venue in the centre of Siem Reap. I had read about this restaurant and bar in a guide before we travelled and was aware of more or less where it was; after half hour or so we found this stunning sophisticated locale. The decor, although rather garish oozed elegance and refinement. Plush leather seats, rich red coloured walls, gold leaf and chandeliers adorned this small select location. I felt at home, sat looking through the doors, towards the street outside, drinking a Miss Wong Punch and nibbling on some Cambodian noodles. This was my kind of place, a little more expensive than Pub Street, but so much more relaxed and polished, a great 'mise en scène' to end our day!

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