Asian Adventure - Birthday at Bukchon!

It felt wonderful waking up in Seoul on my Birthday. Pulling back the curtains in the lounge of our apartment, the sun was out and it looked like we were in for another hot day. Darrell was already awake, coming over as I walked out the door, giving me a card and a 'Korean Cat,' a cuddly toy he had bought from Seoul tower a day or so before. As I slowly awoke, still tired from the previous days walking, I sat down and read the many messages I had received from back home in the UK. Today I was 48 years old, approaching my fifties and happy to be spending the day with my husband and Aunt, doing the things I wanted to do.

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With a love of history that goes back to my school days thirty four years, I chose to begin my Birthday with a tour of Bukchon Hanock Village. This six hundred year old settlement is the best example of a traditional working urban environment in Seoul today and was an absolute dream to visit.

Seoul is a large sprawling city; it's modern, gleaming streets and imposing architecture can be seen wherever you go, each building appearing bigger and better than the last. Imagine my surprise when I got off the metro underground system and began my short walk to this historic site and discovered an altogether different, customary, characterful and calming terrain, situated slap bang in the middle of this amazingly vibrant city.

The approach to Bukchon is littered with small cafe's, shops full of Korean handicrafts and memorable architectural delights, including a beautiful Catholic Cathedral, prominently situated at the forefront of this traditional buddhist community. I was aghast by the level of care and commitment shown by the Korean residents, in preserving their heritage. This is a functioning village, people still live and work here. As an observer, looking into their lives I was grateful for their welcome, as we walked around the narrow streets, taking photographs and looking in awe at history in the making.

Many of those visiting Bukchon were wearing traditional Korean dress and most were happy to have their photographs taken, as they went about their business. Politely and with dignity, they made way for the tourists that flock to this Korean Landmark. You could see how proud they were of their village and the wider city of Seoul, showing just how far these people had come since the Korean war in the 1950s. The contrast between old and modern is stark. As one meanders around Bukchon, one is conscious of being in the middle of a modern metropolis, with high skyscrapers framing the landscape beyond. This is a place I will always hold in my memories and look forward to seeing again in the future!

After a good few hours of siteseeing, we had a traditional Korean lunch near the village, which was delicious, as all the food has been in this country. Once again I ate with chopsticks and am persevering with them everyday on this holiday. I will never be an expert eating with these utensils but at least I have tried. I suppose today was the day I truly fell in love with Korea and really want to see more of this cultural gem.

After Bukchon we went to Changdeokgung Palace, much larger than Deoksugung Palace we visited yesterday. Changdeokgung is probably the most loved of all Royal residences and is visited daily by thousands of people. I was astonished by how big this complex is. Building after building, perfectly preserved and painted in traditional Korean colours. Interestingly only thirty percent of the original buildings remain in tact, but what there is, is breathtaking. In 1997 this site was added to the UNESCO World Heritage List and it is easy to see why. Reporting their decision to include Changdeokgung, the UNESCO Committee stated the Palace was an 'outstanding example of Far Eastern palace architecture and garden design" being exceptional because the buildings are "integrated into and harmonized with the natural setting' and adapted 'to the topography and retaining indigenous tree cover!'

This trip to Korea has opened my eyes on many levels. I never really knew much about this country prior to my visit, but today as I write this blog entry I am fully versed in the outstanding history that oozes around every city block, at least in Seoul. Changdeokgung Palace is a fine example of oriental design and inginuity. I have to keep reminding myself that this structure was built in the 14th century and looks as perfect today as it did then. A trip here is a trip to the heart of the Korean nation!

In the evening after a few hours rest we went out for a few drinks, stumbling across another Korean landmark, this time contemporary in construction and rather modern in its concept. An unused motorway has been turned into a city park with landscaped canal, waterfalls and places to sit, take in the city skyline and enjoy a relaxing hour or so; a project that looked towards the future. It was very strange seeing this popular attraction in such a busy metropolitan setting, but was yet another testimony to the creativity of Koreans.

Just a few minutes away was an English pub - The Shakespeare, serving rather expensive craft beer in a typically British setting. On the surface, this seemed like a popular destination, with businessmen and visitors alike enjoying the ambience and winding down after a busy day. Although we were happy to sit and chat for a while, we moved on to a more lively bar, a few yards down the busy thoroughfare. After several half pints of stella, costing the same as a pint in the UK, we were done for the evening, making our way home through the still thronging streets with a brief stopover at McDonalds.

This was a Birthday like no other and one I shall remember for many years to come. I really couldn't have asked for more than spending my time in Seoul, surrounded by history and the ones I love. This is a day I still dream about, remembering with fondness the experiences I shared, a day that couldn't have been more perfect, relaxed, thoughtful, without stress and looking forward to the year ahead!

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