Kuala Lumpur, City of Contrasts!

View of Petronas Towers under construction in 1997.

Darrell and I have been to Kuala Lumpur twice over the 24 years we have been together, firstly in 1997 and a second time in 2001. The difference between each visit couldn't have been more stark. In 1997, I was heading towards a new life in Australia with Darrell, and Malaysia was the ideal stop over on the way to Perth. I really had no idea what to expect when I arrived at the old KL Airport in the capital, but as this was my first foray into Asia, I was expecting some interesting sites and I wasn't disappointed.

Kuala Lumpur is the capital of Malaysia, a metropolis rather like London, or any other large urban conurbation. In 1997 this emerging city was still in its infancy, growing precipitately, spreading outwards and upwards; construction was evident everywhere you looked. It had a rather gritty feel, infrastructure was old and antiquated, drains were left open and the smell was often stomach churning. There were very few pavements to walk on safely, and what footpaths existed were poorly constructed, uneven and hazardous; it was actually safer to walk on the roads.

Looking around the city, whilst navigating the streets one was struck by the amount of building work taking place. Tall cranes littered the tropical skyline; from our hotel room at the Ming Court Hotel, I could see at least six within eye shot. I remember thinking to myself at the time, that this was going to be a city to rival Singapore or Hong Kong, and I was delighted to be visiting at the beginning of its journey towards maturity. At times, it did feel like I was staying in a third World country, but then that is what it was. Malaysia's capital was about to come of age and it was apparent in every direction!

Kuala Lumpur, rather like the rest of the region is culturally diverse, the demographic was like nothing I had experienced before, consisting of Malay's, Chinese and Indians. I felt like I was in a melting pot of different customs and traditions, religions and heritage. The distinctiveness was particularly evident in the capital, but rather like central London, this multicultural mix seemed to work well. The eclectic nature of this vibrant and dynamic city was truly electric and made for one of the most memorable experiences of my life, which is probably why I returned again in 2001.

By 2001 Darrell and I had settled in the UK, taking the opportunity to fly once again to our favourite Asian destination. We arrived at a large modern airport, unlike the older terminal we navigated in 1997. There were travellers as far as the eye could see, indicating a change in the trajectory followed by this country. Kuala Lumpur was a city that had metamorphosed, transformed for future generations to enjoy, confident and content with its new outlook, a shining jewel in the orient to rival any of the other metropolitan districts in the region. I was amazed by the change, something I had predicted four years prior.

The underground, monorail and rapid transit system was by now complete and fully integrated into the architecture of Kuala Lumpur. New shopping centres, apartment buildings, highways and skyscrapers were scattered across the city. The Petronas Towers was fully operational, welcoming tourists from all corners of the World. The glass walk way linking the two monumental monoliths delivered amazing views across the skyline, and down below landscaped gardens, fountains and pools offered an escape from the intense searing heat. This was a region that had grown out of all proportion and was now a burgeoning destination of choice.

I visited Kuala Lumpur briefly in 2019, stopping over after a flight from Cambodia. By now the airport was unrecognisable; twenty years of change and rebirth had turned this once tiny outpost in the far east, into a modern mega city, an asphalt jungle at the edge of rain forest, lush tropical scenery and extraordinary wildlife. I have been lucky enough to see just how much this once old colonial city with small imperial traditional buildings, nestled between contemporary modern glass superstructures, has evolved and advanced over time. In many ways I preferred the old fabric of the place, but modernity often overtakes convention in a race for change. This is a city I could quite happily settle in, living a life Darrell and I first dreamed of in 1997. In a future so uncertain today, this may well be our 'tomorrow' home on a bucket list of many; Kuala Lumpur is most certainly our Asian abode for now!

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Kuala Lumpur 1997

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Kuala Lumpur 2001

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