Bosnia Herzegovina - The Majesty of Mostar!

Visiting Bosnia in 2014, was the highlight of my stay in the more recognised state of Croatia. This relatively new country was formed in 1992, after the Bosnian public voted to break away from the old Yugoslavia, shortly after the Communist eastern block nations began to crumble. Between 1992 and 1995, war raged in the region following the vote for independence. Bosnian Serbs supported by the new Serbian Government and the Yugoslav Peoples Army fought to secure the country. This was a war that split families, saw the death of thousands through ethnic cleansing and perpetuated the shelling of towns and cities. As we drove along the Dalmatian coast towards the Bosnian boarder, I felt apprehensive, not knowing what to expect, after all this was a country still recovering from conflict; conjecture ran riot inside, as we entered this undiscovered land.

Mostar was our destination, the fifth largest city in the country, named after the 'Mostari' or bridge keepers, who guarded the world-famous 'Stari Most,' or old bridge, over the river Neretva. This 16th century bridge was our destination, one of the most important landmarks in Bosnia. It is a physical crossing between the Islamic and Christian halves of the city. This is a place where East literally meets west.

I was struck by the wounds that still litter this city. Standing outside the Gimnazija Mostar, looking around the vast open space before me, I was overwhelmed by the number of ruined, derelict buildings, left as a reminder of the Bosnian War. Much of the destruction had been replaced by new, modern structures, well-kept and looked after, but there were however mnemoric reminders of a traumatic past. Badly bombed tectonic shells, daubed with bullet holes, shrapnel damaged and adorned with gaping holes. It was a rather eerie scene, that constantly reminded one of this great cities recent past, a memorial to a time before the conflict. I'm not sure whether these were left as a permanent aide-mémoire or just left untouched, undeveloped from twenty years prior, but it certainly brought home the nature of Mostar and the history that still lived on  in the architecture that protrudes around every street corner!

Walking through the Islamic sector of the city, you could be forgiven for thinking you are in Marrakesh or Algiers. We passed through a number of small souks, as we walked around the historic cobbled streets. Beautifully made handicrafts, herbs and spices punctuating the air, Arabic jewellery, ceramics and carved wooden mementos. This is how I imagined the Islamic World to be, and I wasn't disappointed.

We sat in a small traditional Turkish kahve dükkanı and had some thick home ground coffee. As I looked out across the narrow street towards the market stalls beyond, absorbing the atmosphere, sights, sounds and smells of the emporium, I noticed the locals, traditionally attired in Islamic dress, young children playing happily with friends and the odd tourist bartering with a stallholder; all this in complete contrast to the war that left its mark on Mostar. After a spot of shopping and some photographs on the bridge we headed towards the Christian side of the city; the feel was distinctly European. Islamic treasures were replaced with more familiar western postcards, religious icons and cafés selling alcohol. Once again we stopped, this time for a much-needed ice-cold beer and a glass or two of wine, followed by an evening meal in a restaurant tucked neatly away behind a tree covered court yard, a welcome break from the searing Balkan heat.

Mostar is a beautiful city, despite being disfigured by war. I felt relaxed and safe walking around its streets and have many fond memories, spending time with family, surrounded by hundreds of years of history. This Balkan gem unfamiliar to most, will most certainly be a tourist destination of the future. The breathtaking views were a reminder of my travels in Italy and like Sorrento and the Amalfi coast, I fell in love with Mostar and the life it encapsulates. Despite my British credentials, I will always be a European at heart; the freedom to travel unhindered at will, is important to my sense of well-being. Visiting Bosnia, even briefly, was a life-changing moment and one I hope to repeat; seeing more of this magical, inspirational, historic region deep in the heart of Europe, as it comes of age, is a journey for another day!

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