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Yesterday was the most spectacular experience of our holiday so far. I had arranged a day excursion with 'Get Your Guide' online, before I left for Thailand, to see Chiang Rai province. There is so much to see in Chaing Mai and the surrounding provinces, that I wouldn't have time to fit it all in. I chose to see the iconic White and Blue Temples, as well as a detour to see the ‘Long Neck Karen People,’ and finally a boat ride to The Golden Triangle, encompassing the border of Thailand, Myanmar/Burma and Laos.
I have done many of these excursions before in other countries, and knew pretty much what to expect. An air-conditioned mini bus picked us up from our hotel at 7am, and we drove the short distance to pick up others, on the way to our first stop at The White Temple. There were three people from the United States, two from Italy and two from Spain, nine of us in total. Unsurprisingly, Darrell and I were the oldest people there, with all the others being in their twenties. It honestly feels only yesterday I was that age myself, so it can be quite depressing saying we were the oldest couple in the group, but we are getting older, and that’s not going to change.The White Temple
It took us about four hours to reach the White Temple in Chiang Rai, after a brief stopover at the Hot springs on the way. Now, this brief stop, was akin to motorway service stations in the UK, but completely different. There were market stalls, shops, hot and cold street food and of course, the hot springs. We were warned by our guide, Eddy, not to touch the water, as it was boiling and would certainly injure us if we went too close. The area on the way to the temple was green and lush and extremely tropical in nature – it was littered with small traditional villages and an abundance of farms and superb mountain views.
The White Temple or 'Wat Rong Khun' is a modern religious building, opening its doors in 1997. It was constructed by Chalermchai Kositpipat, and dominates the skyline for miles around. This was the biggest and in my opinion the most beautiful temple I have ever seen. Being on a tour, it was sad we only had forty minutes to look around this vast complex, but it did give us a taster, should we want to return in the future.
We had both expected rain and had come fully prepared, but as we entered the temple, the sun was shining brighter than ever, reflecting harshly off the mirrored tiled surfaces, everywhere you looked. This place was like a fairy tale, and it was a building where dreams are made. Given the chance, I will be back one day; everyone who travels to Chiang Rai Province, must take some time to go here. Despite the crowds, there are areas to sit, reflect and admire the views.
You do find a lot of the Neo Thai, modernist architecture, all over Thailand, and it does speak volumes for the visionary architects who design and build these vast religious monuments. To look at the building, you would think it has been here years, but in fact, it has only been open for a quarter of a century. I am in admiration of a society who constructs such amazing structures. These beautiful buildings are Thailand's heritage in the making; the west has so much to learn!The Blue TempleFrom The White Temple, we drove twenty minutes to The Blue Temple, or Wat Rong Suea Ten. Once again this is another amazing modern building, built in Neo Traditional Thai Lanna Style, by local artist Phuttha Kabkaew, who was an apprentice to Chalermchai Kositpipat. The Blue Temple is no less impressive, and sits majestically on the edge of Chiang Rai city. I am literally in awe of all the religious buildings I have seen, they are beyond imagination, and so far removed from what we are used to in the west.
When I look at modern, British and European construction, of public and religious buildings, there is a clear difference in style. Thailand looks back towards its traditional roots, while incorporating modern techniques into their buildings; Europe tends to champion new, untried styles of architecture, that more often than not, sits awkwardly in the environment that surrounds it. For me, contemporary Thai architecture is far more athletically pleasing, and blends far better into the local landscape. The modern equivalent in the UK, just never look right and always look out of place; we have much to learn from Thai people, whose spiritual nature exudes in their buildings, even today.
The Baandam MuseumFrom The Blue temple we travelled to the Baandam Museum or Black House Museum to us foreigners. Designed by Thawan Duchanee, this private art collection displayed in traditional northern Thai buildings, spans 160,000 square meters, and is stunningly alluring and beguiling, sat in the most attractive grounds imaginable. There is also a cat rescue sanctuary on site, with some very well cared for felines, enjoying their best lives. I would have dearly loved to have taken one home, but with Australia's quarantine laws the way they are, that would be impossible. This was a place I could have spent far more time exploring. It was extremely peaceful and calming, even with hoards of tourists in situ.Long Neck Karen PeopleNext stop, we visited the ‘Long Neck Karen People’ (Kayan Lawhi) in their settlement, about half an hour drive away. Now, like all of you, I am sure you have seen photographs or documentaries of this once reclusive tribe, who live in the northern mountains of Thailand. The women wear large brass coils around their necks – these are not individually made, as many people believe - they are made from a single piece of metal work, forming a large neck brace, that sits on the collar bone, in one extremely heavy piece of body jewellery.
Before we went we were assured, that the tribe received 100% of the money they made from the sale of local handicrafts and for me, it was a very humbling experience, spending some time with them, watching them at work and play, in their traditional home. All of them were welcoming and very open to questions and photographs. Asking to take a photo was a little embarrassing at times, but I was always sure to buy something from them as well – it felt like the right thing to do.
Walking around the village, I was struck by just how these people live; it is unlike anywhere I have ever been before. I have seen television programmes on similar tribes in the past, but nothing prepares you for the reality, when you see it up close and personal. It was an extremely emotional experience, and I feel truly honoured to have gone to observe their lives, even for a short period of time.
The Golden TriangleBy now, all of us were feeling tired, we had been driving for eight hours or so, but there was one final stop on this tour of Chiang Rai – The Golden Triangle. This is the area that links Thailand, Laos, Myanmar and Burma, and it was the highlight of the tour for most of us. We travelled along the borders of these countries in a rather old rickety boat, observing the differences in geology, geography and construction, and it was very different to what I had imagined.
After being given a bottle of Laos Beer, which tasted wonderful by the way, (Although I’m not sure the driver or other guides should have been consuming the stuff as well, but hey this is Thailand) we took an hour's trip on a long boat up and down the border region. What surprised me more than anything was the construction work going on in Laos. Modern buildings, including Laos’s biggest and tallest skyscraper, were popping up all over the foreshore. According to our guide, this is mainly due to Chinese investment, which has pumped a lot of cash into the area. Myanmar, on the other hand, looks relatively unchanged and sits perfectly into the natural landscape.
I couldn’t help feeling a little sad at what might become of this area, if construction continues at the rate it is, but then much of the natural landscape in this isolated area has changed over the years anyway. I just hope some protections are put in place to preserve what is left of the natural environment, for future generations to come.
For me, this was the experience of a lifetime, seeing things I have only ever seen in books or on TV. I was fortunate to see and observe from a distance, so have a somewhat distorted view of traditional Thai life. However, I am glad I have dipped my toes into Chiang Rai province, it is certainly be an area I would love to return to again!
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We started the day with a rather lacklustre breakfast at the Bodhi Serene Hotel. Quite frankly, compared to the Nouvo Hotel in Bangkok, it just wasn’t great. However, I persevered and at least we were cooked a fresh omelette by the chef. The choice was poor for a superior hotel, and not particularly hot; probably because we were first in the queue this morning, and the food wasn't fully heated through - Whatever the reason, I was a little disappointed to say the least. This b grade breakfast, didn’t detract from the beautiful hotel itself and with me piling on the pounds, it won't hurt if I miss out on this morning ritual, and at least eat a little less than usual.
We spent the day looking around Chiang Mai itself; there are a lot of 'Wats' or religious sites in this second-biggest city in Thailand, and it was the perfect opportunity to just walk around looking at each one. To be honest, there are too many of these temples to see in a few days, so we concentrated our efforts in the square where we are staying. Our hotel is slap bang in the middle, surrounded on each side by a moat/canal. In this area alone there is so much to see and do, and with time limited, it was the perfect place to discover the delights of this colourful area of the city.
The 'Wats' are breathtaking; as you walk along the many roads and narrow alleys in Chiang Mai, you can be sure there is another temple around the corner. The richly decorated monuments and places of worship are unlike anything I have ever seen. The colours are vibrant and intense; more often than not, I would just stand there fixated, aghast, mouth open wide; these wonders of human ingenuity just get bigger and better the more you explore. As a spiritual person, I feel totally relaxed in these beautiful spaces and could just spend my whole holiday sat within their walls.
The temperature was very hot today, and typically, I am nursing a rather red head. I have to keep reminding myself to wear a hat, especially in this tropical climate. The majority of the time there is no sun in the sky, but this is deceptive; It is extremely hot, and yes, you will burn, if you are not suitably covered up. I have certainly learnt this lesson the hard way.
Touring the 'Wats' on foot is no mean task – so far today I have done very nearly, 20000 steps, and it’s only 5.30pm. Surprisingly, though, I have managed to put on 2.6 kg so far; this just goes to show how well I have eaten here in Thailand. The quality and choice of food is just amazing, but my God, the old waist line is bulging.
The best way to explore Chiang Mai is literally on foot. This will help you stay fit and healthy and give you a chance to see things, you would miss in a car or tuk tuk. We have been able to explore behind the polished veneer and look at the other side of life here in Chiang Mai. Like everywhere, there is poverty, and whichever town or city you live in, you are never far away from it. I suppose you would call Thailand a developing country, so there really is more poverty than you would see in say Sydney or London.
Having said that, the people in Chiang Mai are so much friendlier than in Bangkok, except for the girls at 'So Samsen.' Everyone is polite, and unlike Bangkok, there is very little hassle; you are left free to wonder the streets, without people constantly touting for business. This makes Chiang Mai a joy – No matter how much we love Bangkok, the constant eulogising and persuasion tactics were beginning to take their toll. Chiang Mai has certainly been more of a relaxing time, and for that we are grateful.
After three hours of walking, we headed for something to eat, exploring the backstreets and lanes near our hotel, looking for a suitable restaurant. While trying to find somewhere open, we stumbled across an American gentleman, who recommended a German restaurant and beer garden, just around the next bend. We duly followed our nose and found this quaint eatery, tucked away behind some trees, sheltering it from the worst of the heat.
We both decided to go for something western, rather than traditional Thai. For me, I needed to give my stomach a rest and wanted something a little plainer. Darrell had a burger and I had Goulash with red cabbage. The food was as tasty as anywhere we have been in Thailand. What we have noticed, however, is the much larger portions here, than in Bangkok. Personally I’m all for portion control these days, but I can see Chiang Mai is catering for a rather large American market, who demand ever larger meal sizes. This was the first time I actually left food, and probably won't be the last.
The rain started to pour down, as we sat in our hotel room admiring the view. Tomorrow, we have a trip organised to the Golden triangle, so it will be an early night and a very early start in the morning.
Having been here for several days now, I have to say, I am feeling very settled and relaxed in Chiang Mai. You can see why so many tourists come here, it offers something for everyone.
It’s time for me to pop to the ATM, to withdraw yet more money for tomorrow and the rest of the week. This is a place that really doesn’t take cards, so cash is absolutely necessary. At a cost of $10 a time, withdrawing money isn’t cheap; next time I come, I will certainly come fully stocked with cash.
This would be my only pet peeve about Thailand – I wish I had been told to bring more notes, then I would have had a much cheaper ride. However, Chaing Mai is worth every cent, and I’m glad we chose to come here!
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Today both of us are celebrating our 8th Wedding Anniversary, 28 years together. I have written much about our time together in the past, so don't want to go over old ground. I do however want to thank Sherrie Hewson, for the wonderful message she sent us on the occasion of our Anniversary.
We are still together today, despite everything we have been through, in part because of the battles we fought. The harder the fight, the more determined we were to stay together. Following in my late Mother's, and my Father's footsteps, I believe strongly in the power of relationships, and will always do all I can to keep our flame burning bright.
28 years is indeed a long time, but we have so much more to achieve. In Australia, we have everything we ever wanted, and today we continue to build on that success and follow our dreams every day. We are lucky to have been blessed with each other and look forward to continuing on our journey down under, with the continued support of all of you!
Happy Anniversary, may we have many more shared memories together!
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The flight to Chiang Mai from Bangkok left at a rather civilised 1.30pm. We had time for breakfast and a last look around Pranakorn before we left. I had ordered a car from the Nouvo City Hotel, rather than wait for taxis, for our airport transfer; this is a more expensive option, but after the awful flight to Thailand from Australia, we just wanted a seamless transition to our next destination. Thankfully, we weren’t disappointed – our driver was a delight, chatting with us, talking about his life in Bangkok and generally looking after us on our journey to the airport.
Bangkok Airport was busy, as it always is, and I was expecting the same difficulties we had in Perth when checking in. The process at Perth international was a nightmare, but here it was a dream. We used the self-checkout to check in, and it was perfect, not a thing went wrong. We handed over our bags and headed to the domestic departures terminal - there was no hassle or fuss, we just walked straight through. I can only assume this was an easy process due to us only travelling domestically; whatever the reason, it just made the trip that much more pleasant.
We made a quick beeline to Burger King before our flight, since we wouldn’t be arriving into Chiang Mai until nearly three pm, but at a cost of $50.00 it wasn’t cheap. Airports never are to be honest, but this was excessive, especially by Thai standards, and was a lesson learned. Living life out of a suitcase for several weeks certainly has its disadvantages; having to eat out every day is one of them. From aeroplane meals, spicy Thai Food and take away joints, my stomach was doing somersaults this morning.
The flight to Chiang Mai took just over an hour. We flew on the smallest plane yet, and I was expecting a bumpy ride, but nothing could have been further from the truth. There was only slight turbulence and the cloud cover in this mountainous region wasn’t as bad as expected. As we descended into Chiang Mai, straightaway you could tell how different this place was – the cityscape below had turned into a green, mountainous, tropical paradise. There were very few high rise buildings, and it reminded me of my time staying in Siem Reap, Cambodia. Immediately, I knew this would be a place I would fall in love with!
Chiang Mai airport was small, and we were through security relatively quickly. We paid the 150 thb fee for a taxi to the hotel, and waited outside for our number to be called. Our driver was Nam, who was lovely; I was personally so impressed with her, that I arranged for her to take us to the Elephant sanctuary on Saturday. She was extremely knowledgeable about the area and just the sort of person to teach us about life in this part of Thailand. I have to feel comfortable with someone in order to employ their services or indeed form a friendship. She wasn't pushy or demanding, just offered to take us out for the entire day at a very reasonable cost - how could I possibly say no!
The Bodhi Serene hotel, our refuge for the next six days, was so different to the one in Bangkok. This hotel was traditional in style, historic in nature and absolutely stunning inside and out. The view from our balcony, of lush vegetation and trees, in complete contrast to Bangkok, was a highlight of our stay at the hotel. The room itself was extremely well appointed, even though it was older in style. The bathroom was modern, with a shower and luxury circular bath; overall, I was very impressed. After just having had my first night's sleep I can also say the bed was comfortable and unlike the Nouvo Hotel, the Bodhi Serene is quiet – you could literally hear a pin drop!
After unpacking and a taking a brief look around the hotel, we went for a stroll to downtown Chiang Mai – this place really did have the feel of Siem Reap, as I mentioned earlier. It even has a central canal/river in the same way. There are religious sites or 'Wats' dotted around this city of two million, and there was a distinct calm and laid back feel about the place. Nobody hassled us to take a tuk tuk ride, or indeed bothered us at all, and it was a joy just taking our time walking around the streets.
Immediately we stumbled across Wat Saimoonmuang, it was so peaceful just passing through this well cared for site, and the temple in the centre was magnificent. This is what I love about Thailand, you never know what you will see. There are hundreds of monuments, statues and Wats all over Chiang Mai, and Wat Saimoonmuang was a superb introduction.
As dinner time approached, we tried to find somewhere to eat. Now, this was no mean task, when you only have a credit card, and hadn’t drawn out any money. As a warning to any potential travellers, Thailand as a rule prefers cash, wherever you are, except in the large shopping malls of Bangkok, so turning up with no money, like us, is a no no.
We did however find a glorious hotel, called the Airniversary Hotel, tucked away at the end of a road which did take cards. In all my years, I had never seen anywhere like it, it was out of the World. This hotel was like a large jungle tree house, surrounded by vegetation. We wound our way up steep wooden steps to the second floor restaurant, where we had a view of the whole establishment. Looking down over our balcony, there was even a koi carp river running through the middle; stunning would be an understatement.
Like most of the Thai restaurants we have been to, the menu was extensive, and the portion sizes huge. I chose a Vietnamese sausage starter, followed by a Penang Curry, which, was, extremely spicy, but delicious. The food, ambience and especially the service was exceptional. We had a lovely chat with a young lad who worked there, who openly talked about his life. I have so far found the people so much more approachable in Chiang Mai, although 'So Samsen' and the young ladies who work there, is still my favourite place to be, as you would expect.
After a traditional desert of Mango sticky rice and a couple of pints of Chiang, we navigated the narrow streets back to the hotel. It looks like this will be a very different leg of our holiday, and I am looking forward to investigating this city more tomorrow. Today I feel surprisingly relaxed, Chiang Mai appears to have a more chilled out feel, which will be a welcome change from the busy streets of Bangkok! The next five days are going to be interesting, and I am eager to explore!
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Well, this isn’t what I would have wanted, but my laptop has decided to pack up on me, so I will be writing my blogs each day in ‘safe mode,’ and publishing them when I get home. I am hoping that I will not have to buy a new PC, especially after an expensive holiday, but what will be, will be, and there isn’t much I can do about it. I personally think that a virus has got into the system, whilst connected to the hotel’s open network.
In many respects, not being able to blog whilst on holiday is a challenge for me, it is something I have always done, for the past nine years at least. I will, however, now have an opportunity to enjoy more of my time in Thailand, without having to spend a good portion of it composing and editing my blog.
Yesterday was an eventful one; we took a tuk tuk down to the bridge over the Chao Prayer River and joined a Long tail Boat Canal tour. This wasn’t something I had planned, but when you employ a less than honest tuk tuk driver to take you somewhere, they inevitably take you somewhere else. He was obviously in the employ of the boat charter company, and made a bit of cash on the side. I don’t blame him, we all have to make a living somehow.
The short three-hour boat tour cost us about $90.00 each, which was extremely excessive, when you consider we were just sat on a boat. There was no commentary about our route or the history of the city canals we were visiting. Don't get me wrong I was glad we saw them, but really, there needs to be more organised tours, not a dodgy diversion by a tuk tuk driver on the make!
Standing at the quay side, we were greeted by a long, thin, rickety boat, with barely enough room for two people sat side by side. The orange life jackets sat there looking at us ominously, as I was helped gingerly aboard by the driver, who must have been no more than fifteen; I couldn’t help thinking, what the hell have I got myself into. Nevertheless, I had paid an exorbitant, 3600 thb for this once in a lifetime experience and wasn’t about to back out now.
Within a few minutes we were off at what seemed like break neck speed, smoke bellowing from the back of the long tail boat, which was rocking dangerously side to side. Occasionally the young chap driving would shout out for us to move one way or another, just to keep the boat stabilised and for the most part, we all hung on for dear life - in truth it was quite exhilarating.
Motoring down the large open river, we were passed by larger vessels; the resulting swell caused us to shake violently. As a non-swimmer, I just said a little prayer and hoped for the best. Even when we turned direction into the entrance to the canals that surround the city, the boat fell downwards at such a severe angle, that the side almost touched the water. It was definitely a hair-raising experience and left me feeling rather anxious to say the least.
From the large Choa Prayer river, we entered the canals. Since Bangkok is called the Venice of the East, I had high expectations, which were most certainly not realised. On either side of the canals, there were poor, ramshackled and dilapidated homes, unlike anything I had ever seen. These were poor shanty towns, with no amenities and people fighting to survive. I had seen similar living conditions, when I had visited the floating villages of Tonle Sap, but even they were positively palatial in comparison. Despite the expense, I believe this is something tourists should do; you need to see how real people live and not just take a tour of the many temples or go shopping in Siam Square!Winding our way around these narrow inlets, you are struck by the contrast of old and new. Yes, there are run down homes, but occasionally, you will see a splendid mansion rising between the debris. Some of these buildings are glorious, but such a rare occurrence along these canals. On either side of the waterway, there are also religious Wats, the vibrant colours of the Thai architecture dancing off the water as you sail past. Old, new, traditional and modern, all laid bare in this microcosm of Thai life – this was the darker side of Bangkok, and not something every tourist sees; I was glad I did, just to understand the makeup of this fascinating society.
We stopped off at Wat Paknam Phasi Chareon, or the Temple of the Golden Buddha. This was the final Wat, we wanted to see in Bangkok, and we weren’t disappointed. This huge, imposing statue of Buddha, just off one of the canals, dominates the skyline for miles around. The sumptuous gold facade glistens strongly in the bright sun, and I was aghast at its sheer size, it was a truly magnificent site.
We spent a brief half an hour walking around this religious site, and the adjoining monastery. It was a serene, beautiful place, even better with the cats wandering around. As you know, Darrell and I are a sucker for cats and just love being around them. At Wat Packnam they are well cared for thankfully, which isn’t always the case.
The site itself is vast and surprisingly very quiet. There were very few tourists about, probably because this statue is off the beaten track and not in the most accessible of areas. I am constantly struck by the number and quality of the monuments and religious sites, yet just how poor the living conditions are that surround these places of worship. There does seem to be a disparity that I personally feel needs to be addressed.Our journey back was as bumpy as the journey there. Just under the bridge, the same tuk tuk driver was there waiting for us. He tried his hardest to take us to various different venues on the way back to the hotel, to no avail. This is one of their tricks; they offer you a free ride, if you stop off at shops, where they try and persuade you to buy their wares. Having been here twice, I am well aware of their little ways and just told him to go straight back to the hotel. Eventually, he obliged and we arrived back in one piece.
I am angry I didn't have my wits about me when I agreed to this boat trip. Had I known of the tuk tuk driver's intent, I wouldn't have taken this excursion. Having said that, I am glad I saw the run-down nature of the canals. It was an eye-opener for me, used to western comforts; It was also a learning curve to be more careful when choosing a tuk tuk driver in future!
Farewell Bangkok
In the afternoon, we walked up to Khousan Road, where we grabbed another tuk tuk to the city. This little scooters are three times more expensive than a traditional taxi, but they are fast and an absolute joy to ride on. Winding through the streets of Bangkok, avoiding God knows how many near misses, we made it to Siam Square and the main shopping thoroughfare.
Here we spent a few hours walking around the malls and overhead skywalk, just taking in the site and sounds of this vibrant city. I dearly love this place and with this being our last day, we made the most of our time and bid a final farewell to the hectic, eclectic, bustling city, that will always remain in our hearts. This is our go-to place, neutral ground, not Australia nor the UK. This is a place we both chose and will be a city we visit year after year.
Saying goodbye is never easy, so in the evening we went to say goodbye to Aom and the girls at 'So Samsen.' The heavens had opened up, and the rain was tumbling. The streets around the restaurant were still steaming hot and people were making their way out for dinner. 'So Samsen' was packed, and it felt good sat there, even if I was raging inside about my dysfunctional laptop upstairs in the hotel room.
As we make our way onto Chiang Mai, I am looking forward to seeing a new city in Thailand, in the northern part of the country. Despite the change of pace, with Chaing Mai being a more laid back city, I will not forget Bangkok in a hurry. We will not be back next year, because we have plans to visit Japan, but it will always be firmly in our thoughts and recollections, as we continue to make memories all over the World. Bangkok is, and will always be, our most favourite Asian city!
