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Whenever I travel, I like to experience all aspects of life in the place I am visiting. By visiting overlooked areas other tourists avoid, I am able to see more of a country and the people who live there. Thailand is a country of contrasts; around every corner there is another temple or religious monument, but there are also clues to other aspects of Thai life. Graffiti, rather like paintings in a gallery, document particular points in the history of a nation; although it is often unnoticed and unappreciated, its artistic merit is equally important.
I have always been an admirer of graffiti art. My daily walk through The Lanes in Portsmouth on the way to work in the UK, was an artistic journey, that never failed to impress. I would often see Graffiti artists at work, adding to the urban landscape and would often stop and chat, about a skill I admire. It isn't usual to pay tribute to such a controversial activity, but I can appreciate the expertise that creates such thought-provoking, unique pieces of art.
Bangkok and Chiang Mai has its own urban art scene, and the work I saw whilst travelling through these two distinctly different regions was as good, if not better, than anything I have seen before. Not only was I impressed with the street art I observed, but I was also eager to see more.
Including samples of the graffiti I saw in Thailand, within my travelogue, alongside pictures of religious Wats, Buddhist architecture and sublime natural beauty, may seem strange, but the transient nature of these images show the real Thailand. They record the lives of the street artists who have created them, adding character to the cities where they are displayed. Creating a lasting reminder of events that shape all our lives, leave a lasting impression on all those, like me, who view them!
Graffiti works because of its unpredictable, temporary and fleeting nature, without it, our cities and the great urban sprawl would be all the poorer. Maybe all of us should accept the merits of street art and encourage it positively, then and only then will we see the true value of this unique, progressive and often gritty aspect of urban life.
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The worst thing about going on holiday, is coming home, especially when you have had such a wonderful time. Nam, our driver from yesterday, picked us up from our hotel in Chiang Mai, at a less unearthly 10am in the morning, in stark contrast to our first flight to Bangkok on the 12th of September.
I wasn't looking forward to the flight back to Bangkok, mainly because I am no fan of internal flights, especially in Asia. Judging on previous experience, I know how rough these trips can be. Nevertheless, we had to fly back to Bangkok, so had little choice but to get on the plane.
Chiang Mai Airport is small but perfectly formed. There is plenty to do, from shopping to eating, and we had lots of time and some spare cash left to do just that. Sitting, waiting for our flight, I was feeling rather philosophical about my time in Northern Thailand. I had thoroughly enjoyed my stay, but was a little sad that I wouldn't be returning for quite a while. Chiang Mai had opened my eyes to another part of Thailand, that I want to explore further. This city and surrounding region is, without a doubt, one of the most beautiful areas I have ever stayed in.
We returned to the capital on a Thai Smile flight, part of Thai Airways, and to be honest it was a pleasant enough journey. Taking slightly under an hour to fly to Bangkok, we were given a small snack, including a bottle of water and a cake, which went down rather well. It was quite sweet of Thai Smile to give us this little bag of goodies and as their name suggests, it did put a smile on my face. It's not often you get anything for free on a budget airline, but they did go that extra mile, and it was appreciated, at least from me!
Bangkok Airport - View from Siam Mandarina Hotel!
The flight was rather rough coming back, just as I expected. This is a region where weather systems often cause more turbulent flights than normal, especially during the rainy season, so I was well-prepared for it. The feeling of dread and panic that grips me in these circumstances passed pretty quickly. Whether or not I'm just getting more used to flying, I don't know; personally I think I was more to do with the fact, that it was just an hour-long flight, and I just thought, 'well, what's the worst that can happen.' I have done a lot of flying over the years, and this was by no means the worst flight I have ever been on. I was however glad to land in one piece after the pilot slammed the plane down onto the tarmac.
We quickly made our way through security and out into the terminal building, where we were met by a representative of the Siam Mandarina Hotel, where we were staying for our final night in Thailand. A mini bus took us to this luxurious, modern hotel, just a short ride away, where we spent a quiet evening in front of the TV before our flight home on Monday morning. This was a stylish building, with first class service and prices to match. The Siam Mandarina was the most expensive hotel we stayed in on our holiday, and with all the facilities on site, it was easy to see why.
After a quick bath... yes, a bath in a full size tub, we headed for an early lunch in the hotel restaurant. Both Darrell and I had a distinctly western style dish of Beef and chocolate stew, which actually tasted delicious. We followed our meal, with a few bottles of rather expensive Chang, sat in the plush art deco style lounge bar. Suitably refreshed and nourished, we retired to our room to prepare for yet another flight.
Both Darrell and I slept like a log; travelling all day can be tiring, so it was wonderful to feel refreshed and ready to catch our flight from Bangkok Airport. Breakfast in the Crystal Restaurant was out of this World, there was everything you could imagine, from continental, European, British and Asian cuisine, the choice was top class. Having paid nearly $100.00 for the breakfast alone, I expected nothing less, and I wasn't disappointed. We had a very long day ahead, so we stocked up on food, far more than we usually would.
It took about fifteen minutes to drive the short distance to the Airport, and we were there in plenty of time before our flight. I am a person who has never been late for anything in my life, so I was at the check in counter way before I had to be.
The process was a lot more complicated than flying domestically, as one might expect, and the queues were long at security and Border Control. This was expected; I have been to this Airport before, and it is extremely busy, but once through customs the terminal building was full to bursting with shops and restaurants.
I bought a few last minute gifts before we set off, on our way back to Australia. You could certainly tell you were in an airport, the prices were sky-high, so about all I could afford was a few fridge magnets, Still it was nice to look around, and just enjoy the last few hours we had left in Thailand. After a meal at a Korean fast food outlet, we made our way to the gate, bidding farewell to Bangkok and yet another unforgettable holiday.
It is emotional leaving somewhere you love, just as it was last year. This time it was different though, I had really fallen for the place, and felt so at home and relaxed there. My love for Asia seems to have grown over the years, and now approaching my mid-fifties, I could really see myself living on this amazing continent. Sat waiting for our plane, I thought very deeply about my time in Thailand, and just how much it meant to me. Travelling is such a big part of my life that I can't really imagine a time when I don't fly. Of course, that day will come eventually, but until then, both of us will just keep doing what we love best - seeing the World and experiencing new cultures. Eyes wide open, we left, heading towards Kuala Lumpur and a brief two-hour stopover!
When I departed Britain last year, I left most of my belongings behind, as I did when we relocated to Spain in 2018. Many of the souvenirs I had from previous trips abroad, have long since gone, so I did buy a few selective pieces of Royal Selangor Pewter, from a shop at KL Airport. I used to have quite a collection, after visiting Malaysia twice before, and it was important to try and replace some of the memories I lost. Malaysia is indeed a beautiful country, but it is also a place Darrell and I can not visit these days.
Its anti-gay legislation prevent us from staying there as a couple, and we wouldn't want to pretend we are anything else. For that reason, we choose not to go there, and hope in time Malaysia's laws will change. It was quite apt to see a rainbow flying high above our plane as we waited to board. The Malaysian Government may well have banned pride flags and all things gay, but a rainbow flying over our plane home, is, thankfully, beyond even their control. It was a fitting end to our brief respite in Kuala Lumpur and a reminder of how lucky Darrell and I are, to live in a tolerant country free from discrimination.
After a rather pleasant journey to Perth, where I even watched a couple of movies, which is unusual for me, we landed safely in the early hours - the end of a perfect holiday and back to reality. I do feel rather connected to Thailand now and will of course look forward to our next trip to this stunning, wondrous country. The memories we made this year, we will carry with us, always. From our time in Bangkok, surrounded by friends at 'So Samsen,' a week in Chiang Mai, spent was Nam, feeding elephants and visiting the 'Long Neck Karen People,' we have had an amazing time.
This was a holiday where dreams were made, and I am thankful we had the opportunity to try new and life enhancing experiences. I am also reminded of the tumultuous times we are living through, with wars and conflicts erupting all over our beautiful World. If people travelled more and fought less, we wouldn't be in the mess we are in today!
Until Japan next year!
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Yesterday was probably one of the best days of my life, second only to my wedding in 2015. As holidays go, this has been an absolute belter, but nothing could have prepared me for the day I spent with Elephants at the Chokchai Elephant Camp, here in Thailand. Now, I have read much about elephants in Asia in the past, and the unethical way they have been treated, so I was in two minds about going on this trip in the first place. However, I did my research, and discovered, Chokchai Elephant Camp is one of the best rescue centres in Thailand. I have to admit it did have a bad reputation in the past, but after merging with The Elephant Nature Park, their whole ethos changed. This place is run by people who truly care, and I was honoured to be there.
We hired Nam, a private driver, for the day. This was the lady who had picked us up from Chiang Mai Airport, and will be taking us there tomorrow, when we leave for Bangkok. I liked her as soon as she picked us up, and for a few hundred dollars we had her for the whole day, driving us around, showing us the sites and sounds of the area. She was a joy to be with, spoke perfect English and was friendly and full of knowledge about Chiang Mai; she was the icing on the cake and made our holiday one of the best we have ever had!The elephant camp was situated in the middle of the jungle, at the bottom of a valley surrounded by hills; on our arrival, we were greeted by the sounds of elephants, and beautiful butterflies fluttering past our faces. This was a place unlike anything I had experienced before and as we removed our clothes to put on something a little more suitable, I was wondering what I was letting myself in for.
Our guide gave us an introduction about the centre, its history, and information about the elephants looked after by the camp. If I remember rightly, there were about sixty-five residents in total and three of them were pregnant. From this, I knew we had made the right choice of park. Elephants will only get pregnant when they are in a happy environment, and as we approached the entrance to the park, you could see them all lined up, waiting to be fed. On the surface, they seemed perfectly content, as we were handed large bags of food to give them. Immediately you could see their individual personalities and character and how playful they were, several of them knocking one another, trying to get first dibs on the food.
Feeding these majestic creatures was just amazing. I have never been up close and personal, with anything like them in my life, and I was feeling a little emotional. They took the food respectfully and gently and let us stroke and pat them during their feeding time. There were several babies waiting patiently between their Mother's legs as well; they were playful, mischievous, and full of life. Every one of them looked happy to be there, and that was the point - I wouldn't stay anywhere where animals are badly treated and nor should you.The elephants are given a medicine ball each day, which is made up of various nutritional goodies, including tamarind. Darrell helped make the dough like mixture and form them into balls, which we duly gave them. It is of course important that the baby calves get their share, so this is where we concentrated our efforts. Not all of them however wanted it, which is understandable. I remember as a child how I never wanted to take my medicine for this, that and the other – they are just following in the footsteps of children everywhere.After feeding them, we followed the herd down towards the river. For the next hour, we just spent quality time interacting with them, touching them and observing them in their natural habitat. Gently they made their way down to the river bank, where they collapsed in a heap waiting for us to do all the work. We were given bowls and a scrubbing brush and gingerly made our way down the steep incline and into the river. Now I am not one for mud, dirt, and adventurous activity, so for me this was a first, and I was laughing and smiling all the way. I think I was the happiest I have been in a long time, as I wallowed in mud, cleaning an elephants back; the elephant was loving it, but so was I.Wading back, up to the top of the hill, all the other elephants were wandering around, and we spent a good forty minutes continuing to get to know them. It felt strange stood there, as one of these six tonne animals brushed past. They are so big and clumsy looking, yet they know exactly what they are doing, and there were no injuries sustained - demure, good-natured and considerate in every respect. One baby elephant did take a liking to one of the young girls there, and started to chase her around, which was funny to see, not so funny for the young girl involved, but it emphasised their fun-loving, exuberant nature. Children will be children, and they just wanted to play, which they did in the most humorous way.Heading back up towards base camp, the hoses were brought out and sprayed over the elephants, who loved it. We filled up their trunks with water, they sprayed it on their backs and the little ones decided to get dirty again, throwing dirt in the air, rolling on the floor and rubbing their backs. These were happy elephants, living their best life.This was indeed a very special day for me and one I will always remember. It is something I have always wanted to do, but never had the opportunity to do so, so when Nam suggested it, hesitantly I agreed. It was the best decision of the holiday, and a memory to cherish – Darrell was blown away by this chance of a lifetime as much as I; we haven't stopped smiling and probably never will.
From Chokchai Elephant Camp, we travelled to Wat Ban Den and another spectacular religious site. This was one of the best we had ever seen and as I strolled through this large compound, it reminded me very much of the Film, 'The King and I.' The brightly coloured temples glistened in the hot afternoon sun, their richly decorated surfaces reflecting off the mirrored statues, and Buddhist monuments. This is what Thailand is all about, and it is a reason I would come time after time. There is so much to do and see here, it really is unlike anything I have ever seen.
Next stop was Buatong National Park, and a view of the waterfall meandering through the heavily forested terrain. By now, the sun was scorching, as we made our way through the jungle and down to the bottom of the waterfall. I was a little concerned by the 'beware of snakes' signs posted everywhere, but after a day with the elephants, I thought what the hell, what will be will be, and thankfully we didn’t see any.
The jungle scenery was amazing; this really is only something I have seen in films, and it was everything I had ever imagined. The vegetation, trees, hanging vines and sheer size was just too vast to comprehend. As I sat at the bottom, looking round, I just couldn’t believe the things we had seen on this holiday; I can’t believe we will be flying home in a few days – the holiday blues have started to creep in already!After a short pit stop at the Air Diamond Cafe and Hotel (A converted plane) we drove back to Chiang Mai city. The heavens had opened, and the rain was tumbling down, it was an absolute deluge, but the perfect end to a magnificent day. I have grown to like the rain in Thailand, it is warm, yet cooling in the hot tropical temperatures, and when you book a holiday in the rainy season, what else do you expect.
As we spent a final night at our favourite restaurant, Airnniversary, listening to live music and eating great quality food, I was in reflective mood about returning home. The traveller in me will always want to travel, looking for somewhere else to lay my hat, and even though I am lucky to be living in Australia, I am still constantly thinking of where to move next. Thailand would be an amazing place to stay long term, but the practicalities of such a move would likely cause problems. Health care, property and pensions all have a role to play in our future decisions now. Living life in your fifties isn’t as fun any more. There was a time we would just get up and go. Today, we have to think carefully and way up the consequences of our actions. The holiday has given us food for thought that’s for sure, but for now, this is just a holiday and not a precursor to yet another new life. Both of us have a lot of hard work to do, before that happens!
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Today was a bit of an odd day if I am honest. We had nothing planned, so just went with the flow. After breakfast, we went for a particularly long walk to the only Cat Cafe in Chiang Mai. It has become somewhat of a tradition for Darrell and I to visit these places, when we are travelling abroad, but as I have discovered over the years, not all cat cafés are the same. Subconsciously, I was feeling a little more hesitant than usual; I had a feeling it might not be what we expected, and I wasn’t wrong.
I need to walk every day, it’s just something I have to do now, keeping my weight in check. After doing it for several years, I am actually enjoying it. Whether I am on holiday or not, I need to keep up the momentum, so as long as I walk 10,000 steps a day I am happy. Today I have done over 20,000, so I’m pretty satisfied with that, if a little knackered.
Walking to the café, was a bit of an obstacle course; the roads in Chiang Mai, aren't particularly great, and I wasn't really dressed for walking either, wearing white linen trousers and a pair of flip-flops. Even though I was suitably attired for the tropical climate, it was really practical for the rainy season in northern Thailand. Nevertheless, I persevered with the walking, trying to keep my clothes clean and avoid the muddy roads.
We did manage to photograph yet another Wat on our walk this morning, one we had missed earlier, but in truth there are so many, you would never have enough time to visit them all. This religious site was as brilliant as the last, breathtaking in every respect. Despite the run-down nature of life in Chiang Mai, the Wats and monuments are extremely well cared for and a joy to visit. After a brief look around, we left, with the sun beating down, heading towards the Cool Cat Cafe at the other end of the city!
Cool Cat CafeIt took about an hour to walk to the ‘Cool Cat Cafe;’ by the time I got there, I was hot, sweaty and tired, so wasn’t in the best of moods. Nothing, however, could have prepared me for the oddest cat café experience I have ever had, and one I never want to repeat.
As we walked through the door, I was immediately hit by a strong smell of ammonia; it was so overpowering, my eyes almost immediately started to stream. At that point, I should have walked out straight away. I had the distinct impression, the cats were not being cared for properly, I knew it deep down and wish I had never gone. The staff seemed disinterested and certainly not qualified to look after animals in such a small enclosed space.
When I say animals, I mean animals – all of them were hungry, and they weren’t all cats. There were lots of different felines, all shapes, sizes and breeds, but there was also a Fennec Fox and several Meerkats, as well as a cage with some form of rodent in. Under normal circumstances, none of these different animals should be housed together, and it was clear, that all of them had behaviour problems to differing degrees.
Now Darrell and I have been to many different Cat Cafés, all over the World, and we haven’t experienced this kind of set up before. When we entered the building, within a few seconds, we were accosted by all the animals housed there; jumping up and down, trying to climb our legs, there was clearly a problem. As a rule, well cared for cats will not react like this, unless they are hungry – they were literally starving. As much as I knew I should leave, I stayed for a short while, just in case my first impression was wrong.
We bought a drink and some food to feed the inmates; as Darrell opened the packets he was pounced on, as the cats, MeerKats and Fox all desperately fought for the small amount of food on offer – I have never seen anything like it and I felt quite upset.
I sat down briefly and was immediately set upon by a small tiny kitten, who really shouldn’t have been there, it was just too small and fragile. It clung on, not wanting to let go, and I just knew it was time to go. My eyes were now streaming more than ever, and I was beginning to feel physically sick and anxious. This was no place to keep cats, and the people in charge had absolutely no idea how to care for them.
Within half an hour, I told Darrell we were leaving; I walked out of the door and left, followed by Darrell after a few choice words. I can not get these poor creatures out of my head, but I also understand that animal welfare is different all over the World. Wherever I have been, cats in particular, have never been looked after as I would want, so I am trying to put a positive experience on my visit to the café, but in reality I just can’t.
Walking back to the hotel, I was in two minds about writing this today, but to be honest it has to be said. For a cat lover like me, to see animals in distress, with behavioural problems, issues with their eyes and fighting each other for food, is an absolute no, no. I love animals and don’t want to see them upset in any way. Having said all this, they were the most affectionate cats I have ever seen; I believe they were hungry and just desperate for love and attention, something they were not getting otherwise. I would never go back to this place again, under any circumstances; I left deflated and depressed, so God knows how the poor cats felt!
In the evening, we went for an early evening meal at Airnniversary, just as the heavens opened, and the rain come down. The food was great as ever, although with the rain tumbling down, we were the only customers in there. This is the rainy season, so I really shouldn’t expect anything different. Despite the rain, it was still warm, and a joy sat there listening to the thunder and lightening outside. We will be back for a final meal tomorrow!
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Leaving Britain for Australia was a bit of a blur if I am totally honest. I was feeling apprehensive and agitated on the day we vacated our little room at the Heritage House Hotel. Jumping on an underground train we headed straight to Heathrow Airport, no hesitation, no looking back. It felt a little surreal leaving for a new life with nothing, but I was happy to say farewell to a period in my life, that had become self-destructive and painful to endure. Darrell and I had got to know one another more in the last few days, than we had in the year I had known him. Wearing a brown baggy v neck top he had bought me from a small shop in Soho, we were finally at the end of our journey in the UK. Our time in London, was the stepping stone we both needed and a fitting goodbye amid all the melee we had left behind.
On the way to the tube station I popped to a cashpoint, to withdraw my giro check, that had put deposited by a friend Mark. He had lent me his bank card, so I could gain access to the funds. It was the early 1990s, I had no bank card and very little money to live on. Even today I wonder how the hell I could afford to live a 'party' lifestyle on little or no cash; but I did and the rest is history. Social fund loans, double cashing unemployment cheques here or there, disguised as an old man with dark glasses and a hat at the Post Office counter; somehow, I ducked and dived, lived under the radar and muddled my way through. Mark was probably the best friend I had and true to his word, the money was there, and I had something for my new life in Australia. This was a man who was instrumental in helping me make up my mind to leave, he was the strength I didn't have and a voice of reason at a bewildering time.
Heathrow was packed was travellers, as we made our way to check in.
'Do you have any bags to check in Sir?' said the middle-aged lady on the British Airways desk.
'No,' I replied, 'just me!' Confused, she looked at my passport, closely examining my photo, looking me up and down, moving the document this way and that. Handing it back rather tersely, a scowl on her face, she muttered succinctly to a colleague, who smiled broadly. I turned my back abruptly and walked away, mimicking her hoity demeanour as I went. It somehow felt liberating to be free of 'stuff,' I could breathe again, without the restraints of goods and chattels around my neck! A little nervous, Darrell's bag checked in, we left walking towards immigration, to wait for our flight. This really was the final goodbye, the end of an era, the beginning of something new and exciting; an adventure like no other.
Darrell had paid a premium for the flights back to Australia, and we were lucky enough to have three seats to ourselves. The food was fantastic, wine free flowing and the love we shared for one another clear for all to see. We chatted, laughed, planned and discussed our life together, living in the moment, like each hour was our last. I'm not entirely sure either of us really believed we would still be together today, but the bonds we formed then, cemented our relationship together, in a way we couldn't otherwise have done.
The flight was long; except for a very brief stopover in Singapore, we were travelling non-stop, twenty-one hours to Perth. For me however, as I drifted off to sleep on Darrell's lap, looking out of the window, at the twinkling lights of India below, it passed all too quickly. It was my first and best long haul flight I had ever been on and unlike today, I enjoyed every minute. When you are at the beginning of a new relationship, no obstacle seems insurmountable, no chasm too big. As a couple you can accomplish anything you put your mind to, and with age on our side, we relished this new journey; the same one we are travelling today.
As the jumbo jet approached Australia, I had no idea what to expect. Of course, I had my preconceived ideas about what it would be like, but nothing could prepare me for the reality of life down under. For now, I was happy to go with it; there were no plans in place, just a desire to be together and the opportunity to succeed. This was the start of a partnership that has lasted the test of time and the opening of a new chapter at the base of a mountain, we were yet to climb!
