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The Croatian Island of Hvar!
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On Tuesday morning, we took the TP Line Catamaran to the beautiful island of Hvar in the Adriatic Sea. The boat left Makarska at 8.30 am and took approximately two hours to journey to this large Croatian island. Half way, we stopped at the smaller, less well known island of Bol, famous for its stunning beach. The sea was calm and the boat less than half full, so all in all, it was a pleasant journey; in fact the trip was so relaxing, I fell asleep several times, with the gentle rocking motion of the boat. At a cost of 600 kuna, or £69.00, it wasn't a cheap excursion, but after arriving at Hvar Port, I can safely say it was worth every penny!
Walking around the small, narrow, cobbled streets of Hvar, you are transported back in time. To say the place is picturesque would be an understatement, it is seriously other wordly. The buildings are perfectly preserved and nestle alongside modern hotels, up and down the length of the harbour seamlessly. Crowds of tourists, disembarking from the seemingly endless supply of ships and ferries, fight valiantly for their share of the promenade, making their way towards their final destination. Meanwhile, the great and good of Europe sit sipping champagne on their very large, expensive yachts moored in the marina. Rich and poor mingle together in a melting pot of cultures, all there to experience the delights of this jewel in the Adriatic Sea.
It was an exceptionally hot day on the island, 35 degrees and rising, but we decided to make our way to up to Hvar Fort at the top of the mountain. This is highly unusual for me, since I detest heights, but I have been feeling particularly good within myself lately, since arriving, so gave it a go. To my absolute surprise I thoroughly enjoyed it. The walk was extremely tiring, but the views were stunning the further up the mountain we walked.
Standing at the top of the fortress overlooking Hvar Harbour, I was absolutely taken aback by the views, they were to die for. I could have stayed there for hours just looking at the scenery, but the heat was getting stronger by the minute, so we took shelter in the bar at the top of the mountain, where we chatted for a while. This is what holidays are all about, being able to do things you wouldn't otherwise do, visiting places you have never seen before. This is only the second time we have visited one of the many islands in Croatia, the first one being the late Marshall Tito's personal Island, Brijuni, which we loved, and once again we weren't disappointed.
From the Fortress, we made our way back down to the town below, where we had lunch in Kogo Pizzeria in the square. The food was delicious enough; the only time I eat pizza is when I am in a specialist restaurant, who know just how to make it properly. Frozen pizza from a supermarket just isn't for me, and tastes nothing like the authentic Italian staple.
What I have noticed in Croatia is just how expensive everything is in 2022. The last time we were in this part of the world, in 2014, prices were probably half what they are now, so for two pints, a small bowl of olives and two pizzas we paid a hefty £50.00. Not too bad on English standards, but a huge hike in Croatia. I can only assume that the pandemic and the war in Ukraine has pushed prices up dramatically. Equally, the service wasn't as good as it could have been; the olives were too hard, there was no bread for the table as there always should be and there was little in the way of accompaniments. I really shouldn't have been too surprised about this, especially because we were in a large tourist area. There is no real need to give great service when you don't have to fight for customers.
From the Fortress, we made our way back down to the town below, where we had lunch in Kogo Pizzeria in the square. The food was delicious enough; the only time I eat pizza is when I am in a specialist restaurant, who know just how to make it properly. Frozen pizza from a supermarket just isn't for me, and tastes nothing like the authentic Italian staple.
What I have noticed in Croatia is just how expensive everything is in 2022. The last time we were in this part of the world, in 2014, prices were probably half what they are now, so for two pints, a small bowl of olives and two pizzas we paid a hefty £50.00. Not too bad on English standards, but a huge hike in Croatia. I can only assume that the pandemic and the war in Ukraine has pushed prices up dramatically. Equally, the service wasn't as good as it could have been; the olives were too hard, there was no bread for the table as there always should be and there was little in the way of accompaniments. I really shouldn't have been too surprised about this, especially because we were in a large tourist area. There is no real need to give great service when you don't have to fight for customers.
After lunch, we walked to the opposite side of the island, following a designated coastal walk. The weather was just perfect, as we took in yet more spectacular views. Hvar is clearly popular with holidaymakers, especially the young, under thirty years old. There were many more younger people there, than people of mine and Darrell's age, and it did have a distinctly youthful vibe.
By now we only had a few hours left before the catamaran returned to take us home, so we headed towards the BB Club, right on the edge of the marina, for a few well-earned beers. This was the most expensive bar we have been to yet, where prices were comparable to British prices. The beer arrived warm after a forty-minute wait and was only three quarters full, since most of the head had disappeared. This is not a place I will be returning to. Despite the relaxing atmosphere, overlooking the bay, I found the waiters extremely rude and had absolutely no customer service skills at all. No matter how much I enjoyed visiting Hvar, I just found everything else totally below par. This is clearly part of the course when you visit popular tourist attractions, but it shouldn't be. Unless people like me complain, things will never change - my advice, vote with your feet.
All in all, Darrell and I had a memorable day in Hvar. I would like to visit more islands in the future when we have time to return, but at least I am taking some wonderful memories with me on my travels. Don't be put off by the bad service in Hvar, I'm sure it's not universal; we may well have just picked the wrong restaurants and bars. Go along for yourselves and make your own minds up. You should go for the experience more than anything, and in the main it was a positive one for us.
All in all, Darrell and I had a memorable day in Hvar. I would like to visit more islands in the future when we have time to return, but at least I am taking some wonderful memories with me on my travels. Don't be put off by the bad service in Hvar, I'm sure it's not universal; we may well have just picked the wrong restaurants and bars. Go along for yourselves and make your own minds up. You should go for the experience more than anything, and in the main it was a positive one for us.
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