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Home to Podgora!
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Our first full day began with a trip to Podgora, Darrell's family's village along the Dalmatian Coast. This beautiful fishing village is about 8 km from Makarska, where we are staying, but is worlds apart in terms of size. Makarska is the larger of the two, the size of a medium size town, whereas the sleepy, laid back feel of Podgora, still prevails, as you walk around its streets.
Darrell and I have been to Podgora many times before, first going there to stay with family in 2008. It hasn't changed much in the intervening years, but the number of tourists have certainly increased, making this a popular destination. There is one aspect of the village that has changed, however, and that is the original settlement at the top of the mountain that surrounds it. This ancient town was destroyed by an earthquake in the 1960s, and was rebuilt by the then communist government at the base of the mountain shortly afterwards. Although some buildings are perfectly preserved, the majority of the village that you see today was mainly constructed after the quake. The original village at the top of the incline, is, however, being rebuilt and bares no resemblance to what we first saw back in 2008. The renovation and reconstruction is truly amazing to see; expensive real estate litters the mountain side and is a far cry from the ruins we saw 14 years ago!
Darrell's family own hotels and guest houses in Podgora and as one walks around the pretty streets, you could be forgiven for thinking everyone in the village is related to him. The feel is distinctly warm and welcoming, a sign of local village life at its finest. I have always felt very much at home when I am here in Dalmatia, embracing his family, enjoying my time exploring this little piece of heaven and learning to wind down, finally taking a step back from the stress of life.
Yesterday we visited his Cousins Zorko and Zana and attended his great Aunts grave at the top of the mountain, overlooking the sea. It really is a perfect spot, situated in a magnificent setting surrounded by native flora and fauna. Darrell looks happy to be home, and who can blame him. As much as I love the UK, it really can't compare to Dalmatia and the stunning Adriatic coastline. As I quietly walked around the cemetery, the thought of war in Ukraine, not too far from here, popped into my head. Cousin Marin mentioned how he hoped conflict would never again reach these shores, but judging on past Croatian history, it is likely it could happen again.
Darrell and I have been to Podgora many times before, first going there to stay with family in 2008. It hasn't changed much in the intervening years, but the number of tourists have certainly increased, making this a popular destination. There is one aspect of the village that has changed, however, and that is the original settlement at the top of the mountain that surrounds it. This ancient town was destroyed by an earthquake in the 1960s, and was rebuilt by the then communist government at the base of the mountain shortly afterwards. Although some buildings are perfectly preserved, the majority of the village that you see today was mainly constructed after the quake. The original village at the top of the incline, is, however, being rebuilt and bares no resemblance to what we first saw back in 2008. The renovation and reconstruction is truly amazing to see; expensive real estate litters the mountain side and is a far cry from the ruins we saw 14 years ago!
Darrell's family own hotels and guest houses in Podgora and as one walks around the pretty streets, you could be forgiven for thinking everyone in the village is related to him. The feel is distinctly warm and welcoming, a sign of local village life at its finest. I have always felt very much at home when I am here in Dalmatia, embracing his family, enjoying my time exploring this little piece of heaven and learning to wind down, finally taking a step back from the stress of life.
Yesterday we visited his Cousins Zorko and Zana and attended his great Aunts grave at the top of the mountain, overlooking the sea. It really is a perfect spot, situated in a magnificent setting surrounded by native flora and fauna. Darrell looks happy to be home, and who can blame him. As much as I love the UK, it really can't compare to Dalmatia and the stunning Adriatic coastline. As I quietly walked around the cemetery, the thought of war in Ukraine, not too far from here, popped into my head. Cousin Marin mentioned how he hoped conflict would never again reach these shores, but judging on past Croatian history, it is likely it could happen again.
From the cemetery, we walked along the mountainside picking figs and admiring the view, which just seemed to get more breathtaking around each corner. Near to the old village church, we stumbled upon an old communist era memorial from 1949. It commemorated World War II and the bravery of those who fought the fascists. It was great having Cousin Marin with us, translating the text. (See video above) I suppose I was a little surprised to see these communist monuments still in situ, but the sentiment, communist or otherwise, is still the same. As someone who loves history, I enjoyed seeing this small tribute to the fallen. All war is wrong, and we could do well to remember that, as the war in Europe continues.
We walked along Kralja Petra Krešimira in Podgora, towards the beach bar at the end of the strip, where we sat and drunk coffee and a beer. This was the first time I could truly kick off my heels and relax, looking out along the peninsula towards Tučepi. This is the aspect of Croatian life I miss, it really is a far more relaxing way of life. With the World at our feet now, I hope very much we both return here during my lifestyle break, if only to see family again.
After a typical Croatian meal of Punjena Paprika in the afternoon, we were invited to a small neighbourhood gathering, where I ate more meat than I ever have done in my life. They really love their protein here, and it's easy to see why. Most meat is fresh and organically raised and tastes out of this world. This certainly isn't a place to be Vegan or vegetarian, which luckily suits me down to the ground.
I have once again been amazed by Croatian hospitality, as we have quickly settled into local life. It has always been a joy to be back in this part of the World, and I am thankful we chose to come back before we head to Thailand. It may well be a while before we can return here again, but here's hoping it's sooner rather than later, as we head into the second day of our stay!
After a typical Croatian meal of Punjena Paprika in the afternoon, we were invited to a small neighbourhood gathering, where I ate more meat than I ever have done in my life. They really love their protein here, and it's easy to see why. Most meat is fresh and organically raised and tastes out of this world. This certainly isn't a place to be Vegan or vegetarian, which luckily suits me down to the ground.
I have once again been amazed by Croatian hospitality, as we have quickly settled into local life. It has always been a joy to be back in this part of the World, and I am thankful we chose to come back before we head to Thailand. It may well be a while before we can return here again, but here's hoping it's sooner rather than later, as we head into the second day of our stay!
Punjena Paprika
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