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Bangkok City - Life in the Sky!
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Street Life in Bangkok
Yesterday we went for a last visit to the city centre and shopping district of Bangkok. We took the boat from the hotel in Pranakorn, to the end of the line in Sathorn. From here we jumped straight on the BTS Sky Train and travelled to Siam Square and the main shopping district. Up until yesterday we have only really observed the city from afar, so taking the opportunity to really look at the workings of this metropolis, home to 11 million people, gave us a fascinating insight into Bangkok life.
The most interesting part of Bangkok, for me at least, is life above the streets, connecting one area to another. A whole new world has built up around the BTS monorail industrial style architecture; market traders, vendors, food stalls, in fact everything you find at ground level has moved upwards into the city in the sky. There are more people on the walkways that criss-cross Bangkok, down the middle of every highway, than there are at street level. At first, it does feel rather alien to a visitor like me, but when you realise the importance of this public transport system, it is easy to see why it has grown exponentially!
Above all, the covered walk ways that connect stations and businesses, create welcome shelter from the severe temperatures that engulf this city every day. It is markedly cooler along the busy above ground thoroughfares, than it is down below, and for that reason it works well. On the downside, it doesn't look particularly pleasing to the eye; huge swathes of concrete rail lines and over passes brutally carving a path through the city. Nevertheless, it is an essential part of Bangkok life, that keeps this city ticking along at an almost manic pace.
The one thing you notice on all Asian streets, whichever city you are in, across the continent, is the small shrines, dedicated to Buddhism and other Asian religions. These beautiful pieces of art, in their own right, not only look spectacular, but they also serve a purpose. Dedicated followers of faith come daily and leave offerings and garlands of colourful flowers. I don't pretend to know anything about any of the religions here in Thailand, but it is comforting looking in at these people, making a prayer in the middle of a large modern city. Tradition and modernity seem to sit side by side happily; British people could learn a lot from this harmonious relationship between the earthly and spiritual, for no other reason than a respect for one another in a fragmented world. These shrines bring people together in a way nothing else does, and it is an amazing spectacle to be a part of.
The most interesting part of Bangkok, for me at least, is life above the streets, connecting one area to another. A whole new world has built up around the BTS monorail industrial style architecture; market traders, vendors, food stalls, in fact everything you find at ground level has moved upwards into the city in the sky. There are more people on the walkways that criss-cross Bangkok, down the middle of every highway, than there are at street level. At first, it does feel rather alien to a visitor like me, but when you realise the importance of this public transport system, it is easy to see why it has grown exponentially!
Above all, the covered walk ways that connect stations and businesses, create welcome shelter from the severe temperatures that engulf this city every day. It is markedly cooler along the busy above ground thoroughfares, than it is down below, and for that reason it works well. On the downside, it doesn't look particularly pleasing to the eye; huge swathes of concrete rail lines and over passes brutally carving a path through the city. Nevertheless, it is an essential part of Bangkok life, that keeps this city ticking along at an almost manic pace.
The one thing you notice on all Asian streets, whichever city you are in, across the continent, is the small shrines, dedicated to Buddhism and other Asian religions. These beautiful pieces of art, in their own right, not only look spectacular, but they also serve a purpose. Dedicated followers of faith come daily and leave offerings and garlands of colourful flowers. I don't pretend to know anything about any of the religions here in Thailand, but it is comforting looking in at these people, making a prayer in the middle of a large modern city. Tradition and modernity seem to sit side by side happily; British people could learn a lot from this harmonious relationship between the earthly and spiritual, for no other reason than a respect for one another in a fragmented world. These shrines bring people together in a way nothing else does, and it is an amazing spectacle to be a part of.
HM The late Queen Elizabeth II
It was lovely to see the city of Bangkok paying its own tribute to HM The late Queen Elizabeth as well. This is the first acclamation of its kind that I have seen, although I believe some of the larger towers are projecting an image of The Queen onto their buildings also.
Wherever I have gone in Thailand, I am asked where I come from and as soon as I mention the UK, they offer me their condolences on the death of Her Majesty. It is easy to see why, since Their own Thai King and Royal Family are so respected and revered here. There are portraits of the King everywhere you look, and even shops that specifically sell photo's of members of the Royal Family. This was a bit of a culture shock for me, even with my Monarchist views, but I do find it particularly endearing and similar to the way the King of Cambodia is also loved, respected and looked up to, something I witnessed first hand when I stayed there in 2019.
Wherever I have gone in Thailand, I am asked where I come from and as soon as I mention the UK, they offer me their condolences on the death of Her Majesty. It is easy to see why, since Their own Thai King and Royal Family are so respected and revered here. There are portraits of the King everywhere you look, and even shops that specifically sell photo's of members of the Royal Family. This was a bit of a culture shock for me, even with my Monarchist views, but I do find it particularly endearing and similar to the way the King of Cambodia is also loved, respected and looked up to, something I witnessed first hand when I stayed there in 2019.
The rain came early yesterday, while we were still in the city. The thunder and lightening was quite intense, but it certainly didn't dampen our spirit. The rain is so warm, that it helps the whole city cool down for a brief period of time and is a spectacle to behold. So much rain falls in such a short space of time, that the deluge causes blocked trains and flooding right across the centre. There are people specifically employed to clean up the water during the downpours, and they manage it pretty well.
Tuk Tuk
After the rain and a late lunch in Nandos, (OK I know it isn't Thai, but the rain really was belting it down, and it was the nearest place we could find) we decided to get a Tuk Tuk back to the hotel. I had been wanting to do this for a while, since I arrived, but was always weary, because of the almost predatory, menacing way the Tuk Tuk drivers chase you down the road, trying to persuade you to hire their cab. I am not a person who deals with this type of persistent, rude behaviour very well. Coming from Britain, we just don't see this type of thing, and it is a practice that is far too aggressive for me. However, we both bit the bullet and jumped in one of these rickety, old, dangerous and damn right scary things and got a ride back to our hotel in superfast time.
The trip back was intense, as the driver weaved in and out of heavy traffic at speed. We were thrown around in the back, trying to hold on for dear life; it was unlike anything I have ever experienced. In truth our driver was giving us the ride of our lives, making sure we were suitably disorientated, rather like being on a fairground ride, but like Darrell, I enjoyed every bit of it. By the time we arrived back at our hotel, through the colourful, noisy streets of Bangkok, our heads were spinning; both of us just couldn't stop laughing.
This will be a long-lasting, enduring memory of Bangkok and although it cost us far more than we should have paid, it was worth every penny. Paying 300 Thai Baht for the journey, around £7.00 was excessive apparently, but it didn't seem that expensive to me; still we will know better next time!
The trip back was intense, as the driver weaved in and out of heavy traffic at speed. We were thrown around in the back, trying to hold on for dear life; it was unlike anything I have ever experienced. In truth our driver was giving us the ride of our lives, making sure we were suitably disorientated, rather like being on a fairground ride, but like Darrell, I enjoyed every bit of it. By the time we arrived back at our hotel, through the colourful, noisy streets of Bangkok, our heads were spinning; both of us just couldn't stop laughing.
This will be a long-lasting, enduring memory of Bangkok and although it cost us far more than we should have paid, it was worth every penny. Paying 300 Thai Baht for the journey, around £7.00 was excessive apparently, but it didn't seem that expensive to me; still we will know better next time!
Night Out in Phranakorn
In the evening we had another wonderful meal at So Samsen; I chose Hang Gang-Le, which was a spicy pork stew. Our host, Aom, explained that she used to work in Australia and helped set up a Michellin star restaurant in Darrell's home city of Perth. This immediately explains why the food at So Samsen is so good. After a few drinks, we spent a lot of time talking with Aom and the other members of staff that work there. They have all been so friendly and welcoming, we have some wonderful memories to take with us on our journey!
The Thai White Spirit was a wonderful way to end the evening with Aom; yes it was punchy and stronger than anything I have tasted before, but it does help with the digestion, apparently. Personally, I just think it's a way of getting drunk quicker, and true to form it had the desired effect.
At 9pm, with left our favourite restaurant for a walk to sober up a little, but ended up stumbling into a rather lively district full of clubs and bars. I had an awful feeling the night wasn't going to end well, but by now I was so drunk I didn't care!
At 9pm, with left our favourite restaurant for a walk to sober up a little, but ended up stumbling into a rather lively district full of clubs and bars. I had an awful feeling the night wasn't going to end well, but by now I was so drunk I didn't care!
The rain was just beginning to fall as we sat down for a drink in a local bar, opposite one of the many massage parlours in Bangkok. These places are literally everywhere, around every corner, as common as hairdressers are in the UK. The bar was busy with lots of young revellers out for a good time. Having been drinking since 6.30 pm, I was feeling a little bit worse for wear myself and was quite happy to just sit, watch, listen to the live music and take in the sights and smells of this area in the backstreets of Bangkok, near Samsen Road.
Darrell and I don't really drink to excess any more, so on the rare occasions we do, we enjoy ourselves. Walking around the tiny backstreets was a bit frightening on occasion, nearly falling down open drains and the like, but once again it was all part of a journey I will remember fondly, warts and all. I love exploring new places, and there certainly is a lot to see in Phranakorn. I know Darrell and I would dearly love to come back here in time, especially to see Aom and the crew at So Samsen.
Whatever the future holds, we are leaving here on Monday morning, to travel to our final hotel before we fly to Perth. We have both had a fantastic twelve days in this wonderful city of contrasts and will miss the bonds we have formed. It is important to keep the memories burning bright as we say farewell to Thailand, because this is a country we have both fallen in love with. Darrell and I rarely agree on much, we are very different characters, but if we both like something well enough, chances are, we will be back, and I can't wait for the day we can be here together again enjoying the delights of Thailand in our own special way.
Darrell and I don't really drink to excess any more, so on the rare occasions we do, we enjoy ourselves. Walking around the tiny backstreets was a bit frightening on occasion, nearly falling down open drains and the like, but once again it was all part of a journey I will remember fondly, warts and all. I love exploring new places, and there certainly is a lot to see in Phranakorn. I know Darrell and I would dearly love to come back here in time, especially to see Aom and the crew at So Samsen.
Whatever the future holds, we are leaving here on Monday morning, to travel to our final hotel before we fly to Perth. We have both had a fantastic twelve days in this wonderful city of contrasts and will miss the bonds we have formed. It is important to keep the memories burning bright as we say farewell to Thailand, because this is a country we have both fallen in love with. Darrell and I rarely agree on much, we are very different characters, but if we both like something well enough, chances are, we will be back, and I can't wait for the day we can be here together again enjoying the delights of Thailand in our own special way.
Farewell to Phranakorn
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