Category: Taiwan 2024

An Unforgettable Day in Jiufen!

18/10/2024

Evening all… Tonight I am back at the hotel, after an exhausting twelve hours in Jiufen. I guess I must be getting old, all tucked up in bed at 8.30pm, but it really has been a tiring day. To make matters worse, the hotel internet connection is just not working for me. It has a totally insecure connection, which will just not work on my laptop. I am therefore having to pay for my own Wi-Fi, through my mobile phone provider in Australia. Paying $20 AUD for 5 GB of data, isn't too bad on the scale of things. I am using about 2 GB a day, so by the time we leave next week, it would have cost me about $80 AUD — No real biggie.

Now, I didn't know it was going to be this bad here, but you would think a large hotel, like COZZI, would at least have a secure connection for its guests. I will be complaining, as you would expect. If you are coming to Taiwan, and staying at this otherwise first class hotel, may I suggest you seek alternative arrangements for internet use, like me. It will cost you, but at least you will have peace of mind, having a secure connection to the internet!

We had an early start this morning, waking at 5.15am. I wanted to make the most of the last sunny day in Taipei, before we leave and travel south on Sunday. We had another wonderful breakfast at the hotel, sat looking towards the urban sprawl outside. The truth is, I am a lover of city life, and have missed living in a busy metropolis since leaving Portsmouth, two years ago. Taipei is a city like no other and is home to over seven million people, so you can imagine, just how busy it is on a daily basis.

As I sat there eating my freshly cooked omelette, glancing at the Taipei Times, I was immediately struck by world events that were shaping this small country. Tensions are running high in this region, with China having just completed a military exercise, off the coast of this island. Of course China would claim, Taipei is part of the mainland, while Taiwan wants its independence, and a future very much rooted in the western world.

I know nothing of the geopolitics at work here, but I understand just how beautiful this country is, and how welcoming Taiwanese people are. I would hate to see this country forever changed, under the watchful eye of Communist China!

With a particularly fine day on the horizon, we had decided to travel north, to the World-famous city of Jiufen, situated, idyllically, in the green lush hills this island is famous for. This is a destination I have wanted to explore for many years, and is another place crossed off my bucket list.

We took a local TRA train, from Taipei main station at just after 8am this morning; both of us are getting used to navigating the transport system now, and actually find it pretty easy to get around. The train was absolutely packed with commuters, trying to get to work, so, feeling rather tired, we both had to stand for the first twenty minutes of the hour-long journey.

As the train passed through the north of Taipei, I was struck by just how old the infrastructure is. I don't really know what I expected, but I thought Taiwan would be far more modern than it actually is. This northern region does seem rather neglected, compared to the capital, but everything seems to function well, and the journey was pleasant enough.

We arrived at Ruifang railway station, about ten minutes away from Jiufen, absolutely spot on time. Immediately, we made a beeline for the bus stop in Resident square, taking the 1062 bus to our final destination.

Now I just want to say a word or two about Taiwans Easy Card system, since that is what we have been using to get around, since we arrived on Wednesday. When we alighted at Taipei main station, we purchased the 'Easy Card' from the local ticket office. You can top this card up at any time, and use it to pay for everything, from train, bus, and boat travel, to groceries and restaurants across the whole of the country, not just in Taipei.

This is the best system of integration I have ever seen, and is so easy to use and top up, using one of the many machines, at stations and other participating outlets. Despite the creaking nature of Taiwan's infrastructure in places, this little card is a blessing for a tourist like me, and has allowed us to travel throughout this city was complete ease!

The ten-minute drive to Jiufen, was hair-raising to say the least, with the bus taking corners so fast, I feared for my life at times. Even Darrell was firmly strapped into his seat, just wishing for the bus ride to be over as quick as possible.

We definitely made the right decision to come early to Jiufen. The narrow tiled streets were completely empty and quiet, giving us time to walk patiently around, without being hassled by shop vendors and restaurateurs. This was actually the most relaxed I have felt since being in Taiwan; I would certainly advise anyone travelling to Jiufen to get there as early as possible, just to get a feel of the place, before the hoards of tourists arrive!

We stopped and had a coffee, and in my case, a carrot juice, in a beautiful café overlooking the ocean. Sadly I just can't remember the name, but it was set over three floors, right on the corner, of one of Jiufen's main streets. It offered panoramic views of the coastline and hills surrounding the city. It was a joy, sitting there, just breathing in the fresh sea air, before the heat really began to bite.

After morning coffee, we ventured back out into the street — it was packed. In that brief half an hour we were sat inside the restaurant, bus loads of tourists had arrived, and all the souvenir shops had opened their doors. This was of course a delight for me, since I love small 'nick nack' shops, selling tasteless fridge magnets, postcards and obje d'art. Part of the enjoyment of going on holiday, for me, is taking home little reminders; every time I look at them, I can be transported back to happy times in Asia. Darrell, on the other hand, can't stand the amount of stuff I bring home, and the money I spend. Still, after leaving all my belongings back in The UK, I've got a lot of stuff to make up for.

After walking the entire length of Jiufen, we went back to the same restaurant we had coffee in earlier, for a spot of lunch and a few beers. If I go to a place, and like it, I will return again and again. The restaurant was perfect in my book, if a little expensive, but then, who 'penny pinches' on holiday? I know I certainly don't.

I ordered delicious homemade Taiwanese dumplings, some Tiramisu, (Clearly catering for western tastes) a large Taiwan Beer, and some warm Japanese Saki rice wine, which really hit the spot. The food, service, ambience, and atmosphere was just faultless, and given the opportunity I would return again and again. Sadly, I'm not sure when we will get back to Taiwan in the future, but unlike Vietnam, I would love to go back and relive my time here at the earliest opportunity.

To end our brief visit to Jiufen, we walked around to the other side of the mountain, this hillside city is built into, where we could see just how beautiful it is. It reminded me of our time in Sorrento and Amalfi in Italy, as well as the many holidays we spent with family in Croatia. Both of these places had similar mountainous, rocky coastlines — dramatic and awe-inspiring. Both Darrell and I agree (for a change) about just how special northern Taiwan is. I could have quite easily spent the whole holiday here, despite the thousands of tourists, and I am just thankful we had the opportunity to visit when we did.

I do worry about what will happen to Taiwan in the future, which is why we decided to go now, and not later. There is so much upheaval in the World at the moment, that neither Darrell nor I, are sure when we will leave Australia again. I suspect war is coming, but I am hopeful, the World can pull back from the brink before it's too late, and all of us can live our lives in peace.

Whether we are British, Australian, Russian, or Taiwanese, we are all human, just trying to get by in this crazy World right now. This holiday is special, because it could be the last one we have until the political climate changes for the better. I have my fingers crossed for the future; I certainly didn't want to end this blog on a down note, but sometimes you just have to say what's on your mind, as I have done this evening, good or bad.

Chao for now!

0 Comments

Taipei 101, Chiang Kai Shek Memorial and Raohe Night Market!

17/10/2024

0 Comments

Taipei 101

I think I must be getting brave in my old age; today I did something I don't usually do and go up, what was the World's tallest tower until 2015 — Taipei 101. Darrell's hip is playing up, so we had to take the MRT train to the tower, rather than walk, as I suggested. To be honest, I have put on so much weight over the last few days, the more walking I do the better, but my other half has other ideas. Taiwanese food is not by any shape of the imagination healthy. Unlike the rest of Asia, its food has a distinctly western feel about it, with plenty of fried chicken and high carb delights on the menu; this is not a place to visit if you don't want to put on weight, and certainly isn't for the faint-hearted.

It is rather difficult trying to avoid the unhealthy food here, as much as I have tried. Even at breakfast this morning, the food was most certainly high in fat, with only a small selection of fruit on offer. When I get home from this holiday, I am going to have to do a lot of keeping fit, to get back to the way I was!

The views from the top of the tower were spectacular, even if the cost of going up to the observation deck was extortionate. The price for the two of us was $1200 TWD, which is about $60 AUD. Nevertheless, this is a must-do activity, if you are visiting Taipei.

The observation deck is indeed one of the best I have seen; dotted throughout the 360 degree viewing platform, are a number of what I can only describe as, 'kitsch follies.' Here you can sit and have your photo taken, in front of the different urban backdrops behind, adding an extra element of excitement, as you explore the city outside. These displays, almost childlike in nature, are extremely Taiwan centric, and me and Darrell loved them. We are both Hello Kitty fans, so you can imagine how thrilled we were to be surrounded, by things we absolutely adore. Taiwan suits our own sensibility, and is a particularly fun place to be!

After spending nearly $300 AUD in the souvenir shop at the top of the tower, we made our way down into the rather exclusive shopping mall below. This vast complex is populated with designer labels — including Cartier, Yves Saint Laurent, Armani, and many others; all of which were completely out of our price range. I'm a cheap and cheerful kinda bloke at heart, more op shop than designer shop, and I certainly wouldn't be wasting money on overpriced clothes, especially when there are so many knock offs in the markets outside. It was, however, nice to see, how the other half live — Would I want it myself? Well, no, probably not!

From luxury and excess, we headed to culinary perfection. We found The Angel Cafe on our way back to the hotel; it was a little gem, tucked away down a particularly exclusive side street. This was a western style establishment, serving food with a knife and fork… YES, a knife and fork, and not chopsticks, as is usual here. Darrell finds it particularly difficult to eat with chopsticks, and I could hear a sigh of relief, as we sat down to eat.

Darrell had Linguine with mushrooms and truffle and I had Hungarian pork. Both dishes tasted wonderful and certainly filled a hole, washed down with a couple of bottles of beer. This wasn't a cheap option however, and, although I enjoyed the ambience and food, it was quite an expensive meal, costing $100 AUD. Sometimes, though, it is worth paying more for something special, and special it was!

Chiang Kai Shek Memorial Hall

After lunch, we headed to the Chiang Kai Shek Memorial Hall and Gardens. This is something I have wanted to see for many years. It is a wonderful monument, full of history; richly decorated, it is a superb example of Taiwanese architecture and I just love it. There were so many echoes of our time in Seoul, South Korea: The colours and style were, to the untrained eye, identical, and it was definitely one of those wow moments, when I saw it.

By the time we arrived, the sun was high in the sky, and it was very hot. There is very little cover in the memorial grounds themselves, but the surrounding gardens, with lush green vegetation, and KOI carp swimming in a beautifully presented lake, is a welcome pit stop, during the heat of the day. This has been my favourite part so far and wherever we go now, will have a lot to live up to.

Raohe Night Market

To end the day, we headed to the World famous Raohe Night Market, just a few stops on the underground, from our hotel. This is a destination I have seen a lot of, on YouTube, and I had a good idea what to expect. The market was crowded with tourists, and you could hardly move through the thronging crowds, without elbowing someone in the face. The food itself is not the best, and is pretty standard stuff really. We bought a doughnut burger, followed by a sausage on a stick and finally a large piece of fried chicken with topping of your choice.

As you walk through the market, you can smell the popular 'stinky tofu,' a popular dish in Taiwan, that smells like sewage. That is enough to put me off for life. On top of this, there is also the odour of Dorian fruit, again an aroma akin to a blocked drainage system, and not something I even want to try. Apparently, both of these dishes taste absolutely wonderful, but I just can't bring myself to eat something that smells so bad.

Finally, back at the hotel, we are relaxing ahead of another busy day tomorrow. So far we are both enjoying this hospitable Asian country, especially the incredible sites, polite people, amazing MRT train system and vibrancy of Taipei itself. However, the food hasn't so far lived up to my expectations. I haven't eaten anything, I thought I would like to eat again, and I am still seeking that perfect dish. Also, the food is terribly fattening and has played havoc with mine and Darrell's IBS and all that entails! (what a lovely thought for this evening)

I do always find myself comparing the countries I visit, to my favourite Asian country of choice, Thailand, and nothing has so far lived up to it yet. I fell in love with Bangkok, the first time I saw it, Taipei is a city that is slowly growing on me. Furthermore, I just hope by the end of the week, I have another amazing destination to add to my list, of countries I would like to return to again; until then, my judgement is well and truly reserved. After all, we have only been here two days, a lot can change in the next ten!

0 Comments

Day 1 in Taiwan - Shattered, knackered and badly in need of sleep!

16/10/2024

0 Comments

I was supposed to finish this blog entry last night, however, I literally must have passed out where I was so tired. It's now 5.15am in the morning, and I have had a wonderful night of sleep, on what is probably the comfiest bed I have ever slept in; it was like sleeping on a cloud — or maybe, that's because I was just so tired.

Our day started relatively late yesterday. We had a midnight flight from Perth international airport, and as usual, we were there with plenty of time to spare. I am a person who is always early; I have never been late for anything in my life — so we arrived by taxi at just after 8pm. At nearly $50 AUD for a taxi from our house to Perth international, it isn't cheap, but then nor is Australia in general; The reality is, I think we are both just grateful to be leaving Perth for a bit. After one of the wettest winters we have had in years, it felt good to be going somewhere hot, if a Little rain soaked at times. Taiwan does have its fair share of wet weather, it has to be said, but this green, lush country is a must-visit place for Darrell and me, and somewhere we have wanted to go for a very long time.

We had a few beers at the airport, and some rather expensive, mediocre food. Despite the usual moans and groans about cost, it always feels great to be sat in an airport, waiting to get away. When we lived in Europe, we travelled a hell of a lot. With shorter distances between countries, it was easy to just pack up and leave for a while, getting a cheap flight to this place or that. In Australia, it is obviously a very different, considered purchase, and even though we do make sure we try to go on holiday twice a year, it really doesn't feel enough!

We flew to Taipei on Cathay Pacific — cattle class as usual. There is no way I am paying for business class; I would rather suffer for the few hours involved, then pay a fortune for something, that in my humble opinion, isn't worth it.

To put it in some kind of context: As we boarded the plane, business class looked radiant, shiny and a bit posh, but in reality, as we exited, after the seven-hour flight, it looked worse than economy, where we were. I remember thinking to myself — 'whoever you are, whatever class you maybe, you will still end up in the same dilapidated mess in the end.' This is as true for a flight, as it is in life. It felt good to have just paid a fraction of the price, then those with more money did… Even if I was wealthy, I'd never pay the huge costs involved; I'll always be a tight wod in that respect!

The flight itself was pretty uneventful, and I even managed to watch a film, something I never do. Readers of Roaming Brit understand just how much of a nervous flyer I am, so being relaxed enough to do anything on a flight, is pretty unusual in itself. Have you heard of the term 'raw dogging' a flight, well that is generally what I do — basically nothing. I sit there with my hands firmly gripping the arm rests of the seat; feeling every twist and turn, I hold on for dear life. This time it was different, I managed to watch the screen in front of me, focused and calm. I watched the film 'Civil War,' which was a bit gory for me, but nevertheless, I enjoyed it, more than I thought I would.

Darrell mind you was not happy. He detested the flight, dropping airline food down his clothes, squashed in the middle of me and a Taiwanese gentleman, and unable to sleep whatsoever. I on the other hand, managed to get a little shut-eye. With turbulence at a minimum, which was unusual on a flight in South East Asia, I felt relaxed enough to be able to drift off, even for just a short while.

We arrived in Hong Kong for a two-hour stop-over, at about 7.30am. We managed to get through security relatively quickly and without any fuss, and through to the well catered for transit area. Now, Hong Kong is one of my favourite airports. There is always something to do there, and it has amazing facilities and shopping. It is a great stop-over destination as well; if we had had more time, we would have probably stayed a few days, but it was nice just sat there for a few hours before our next flight to Taipei.

The journey to Taipei took just over an hour. The flight itself was a little more turbulent than the other one from Perth, but we arrived in good shape, early, and relatively unscathed. This was the worrying flight for me, since China has been doing military exercises off the coast of Taiwan and with tensions across the World rising, my anxious mind obviously thought the worst, as it always does.

After passing though Boarder Control, without incident, we walked outside into the warm, tropical air. It felt good to be back in Asia again. I do love the climate here, more than anywhere else in the World, and thirty degree plus heat, does suit my constitution these days. Half an hour later we were on the MRT train, travelling to Taipei main station, and our hotel in the centre of the city.

The transport system here is great — we were quickly ushered onto a train for the 45-minute ride. We took the express train, which missed out most of the stops, but sadly we had to stand all the way. This isn't unusual for Taipei. This is a big, populated city, and most people use the train system to get around. Feeling exhausted after our flight, I think I can safely say, this isn't a trip you want to do, with little or no sleep. Slipping and sliding around a train carriage, full of people, with sparse seating, isn't for the faint-hearted. Nevertheless, we were able to look out of the windows, at the green lush vegetation pass by. This is an extremely wet, tropical region, and the green hills and mountains are really a site to behold.

From Taipei main station, we got on a commuter train, on the Bannan line, to our hotel. It was literally one stop away. It was fascinating to see people queuing patiently within lines, not deviating or encroaching on someone else's space, When the train arrived, we all walked calmly to the doors; there was no pushing or shoving and everyone was so well-mannered. Can you imagine seeing this in central London or New York?

Although the system seems modern on the surface, with large gates preventing you from falling from the platform, the trains themselves aren't particularly modern. From my recollection of Bangkok, and the BTS Sky Train there, the MTR appears to be older, and the trains are not in the best condition. It was, however, an easy system to navigate, once we had got the hang of it. Darrell does these things far better than I, who can't even read a map, so I left him to work out where we were going, to differing degrees of success.

We are staying at The Hotel Cozzie, a modern boutique hotel in the Shandao Temple area of Taipei. It is clean, modern, and perfectly appointed. When one considers the lack of good hotel rooms in Taipei, I think this place is perfect. Hotel rooms are very expensive, because of the lack of space here. Before I booked the Cozzi, I remember seeing rooms which were small, had few facilities, and in some cases didn't even have a window. Here, were had three windows, a large suite by Taiwanese standards, and even a bath in the bathroom; I couldn't be happier.

If there was one criticism I had, it was the lights everywhere. Even when you turn all the lights off using the switches next to the bed, the buttons themselves were still illuminated all night, which meant the room was overly bright for me; as someone who prefers darkness, it did make it difficult to stay asleep at times. Otherwise, it was perfect, and we both slept in the huge bed, like a dream.

By the time we were both rested after our long journey, we were both ready for bed. However, we did venture out briefly to the Shilin night market, just to have a brief look around, with a view to return today, for some authentic street food. The market only takes cash, so we couldn't really buy dinner there. We only had large denomination notes of a $1000 Taiwanese, and with prices at an average of $40, we decided to go and eat in a more expensive restaurant near our hotel. Even then, however, we ended up paying just $39 Aud for a nice meal and beer.

With day one at a close, we came back for an early night. I did sit for a while looking out at the vibrant city outside, as I prepared my blog for today. The streets were packed full of people and cars, bustling and full of life. This is why I like Asia; unlike Australia, where the city streets are quiet, Asian cities, make you feel alive and give you a real zest for life. The more time I spend in this part of the World, the more I fall in love with it. This is of course only our first day in Taipei, but I am hopeful the rest of our stay will be as magical as the first.

0 Comments

Holiday to Taiwan Booked!

22/6/2024

0 Comments

Taiwan 2024

17/6/2024

0 Comments

I have spent this weekend booking our holiday to Taiwan in a few months. To be honest, I had no idea how difficult it would be to arrange this trip, but this was a challenge, even for me, and I consider myself a pro, when it comes to making travel arrangements. Trying to find half decent accommodation at an affordable price, on an island half the size of Tasmania, was difficult. 23.57 million people live in Taiwan, so as you can imagine, hotel accommodation is at a premium, and the costs can be astronomical.

Like all my holidays, I use Expedia to book my itinerary. I find them to be the best online travel agency, and their customer service is exceptional. They may well be a little more expensive than other similar online companies, but you pay for what you get as they say, and I feel safe using them, to facilitate my travels around the globe.

There will be a lot of travelling involved in this trip. The flight from Perth in Australia to Taiwan is going to take us approximately twelve hours. This was the quickest time we could have possibly got. We are flying with Cathay Pacific, and paying a lot more for that privilege. However, I would rather do that, than spend thirty hours getting to the island, using one of the cheaper airlines, like Scoot. Once again, you pay for what you get, and I am prepared to pay a premium, to enjoy more time on holiday. Time is obviously the biggest factor for me, when booking annual leave, and I don't want to go on the cheapest flights, for the longest time; sometimes you just have to suck it up and pay more, knowing you will have peace of mind in the long run!

We will initially fly into Taipei on an early morning flight from Australia, arriving in the city just after 12pm. Thankfully, Taiwan is in the same time zone as Perth, despite being situated in the Northern Hemisphere. This should make jet lag a lot easier to contend with, especially when it is something I tend to suffer with every time I fly — it really doesn't get any easier; if anything, the exhaustion has got worse as I have got older!

From the moment we arrive at the airport, to the moment we leave, we will be taking the train all the way. This is unusual for us, but having investigated public transport in the country, it is clear, it is the best way to travel. It is convenient, cheap, and clean and will take us directly to our destination without hassle and overpriced transfers.

From the airport, we will travel to Taipei and our first hotel — The Cozzi Zhongxiao. This four-star establishment near to the train station will give us a base from which to see the city, and travel to the historic city of Jiufen, a place I have wanted to see for years. There is plenty to do and see in Taipei itself, and I want us to pack in as much as we can over the four days we are there.

From Taipei, we will take the Taiwanese bullet train down south to the coastal city of Kaohsiung, and spend a further five days in this historic part of the island at the Han Hsien International Hotel. As yet, we haven't made any firm plans about what to do while we are there, and we hope to do most of it on the superb public transport system, crisscrossing the island.

This is of course in complete contrast to the holiday we recently had in Vietnam. Here, it was virtually impossible to use any form of public transport, mainly because there wasn't the infrastructure in Saigon that there is in Taipei. This was a big disappointment for us, since we were unable to see many of the sites we would have liked to have seen. The hope is, Taiwan will be a very different experience, and we will be able to navigate the system with ease — that, of course, remains to be seen.

Once again, I will be blogging my way around Taiwan, writing as I go. This is another trip of a lifetime for us, and a precursor to our ultimate dream of travelling to Japan. I am told Taiwan is a gentle introduction to a future Japanese adventure, and I look forward to sharing my experiences with you. Thank you as always for your continued support; I look forward to documenting yet another adventure is the unique, endearing, vibrant and colourful part of the world!

0 Comments

Forward>>

From a new life in spain, to an old life in britain, 'roaming brit' documents uncertain times!

An Unforgettable Day in Jiufen!

Taipei 101, Chiang Kai Shek Memorial and Raohe Night Market!

Day 1 in Taiwan - Shattered, knackered and badly in need of sleep!

Holiday to Taiwan Booked!

Taiwan 2024

Author

Contact Luke.

Categories

Archives

Telephone

Email