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Bite/Infection? — The aftermath of our holiday to Taiwan!

30/10/2024

After returning from Taiwan, I have been suffering from a severe infection, that I was told probably came from a bite, most likely a spider. Arriving home, I didn't think too much about the tiny spot on my elbow, but over the next few days, I became concerned about what the blemish was turning into.

It was clear, that whatever was going on was not normal. This tiny spot had grown significantly; it was red, angry, inflamed, and clearly infected. Suitably alarmed, I went down to the Urgent Care Clinic in Midland, where after an assessment, I was prescribed a generic antibiotic, ointment, and other medical goodies, to try to resolve the situation. However, after six doses, I just knew something more serious was going on. After a visit from my Mother-in-Law and neighbour, both of whom appeared alarmed at the size of the infection, I made my way to the Emergency Department at St John of God Hospital, here in Midland.

I waited just under an hour to get through to the assessment. Usually, it takes far longer, which underlines just how seriously they regarded my predicament. I was assessed quickly, by a wonderful team of Doctors and nurses, who, after referring to my previous hospital notes, prescribed me IV antibiotics, but not the usual penicillin ones. The last infection I had was resistant to standard antibiotics, so they assumed this one would be also.

A member of the nursing team drew marks on my arm, determining the extent of the infection, and I was told I could go home and return tomorrow for more antibiotics. They decided to leave the pic line in, explaining that I may need more treatment going forward.

Obviously, my main concern is just what is this infection? My anxious mind suggests it could be MRSA, and that was also a concern of the medical professionals. However, I am a long way from that diagnosis, and the hope is, it is something far more treatable!

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Clayborne in Taiwan!

30/10/2024

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From Taipei and Kaohsiung, we return home to Australia!

26/10/2024

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On Thursday, we left the Han-Hasien Hotel to return to Taipei on The Bullet Train. As I sat in the breakfast room, eating my eggs on toast, I had time to reflect on the five days we had spent in Kaohsiung. I remained happy and content with all we had achieved in this southern Taiwanese city; it is totally different from Taipei, and that is part of its charm.

Taipei is obviously geared towards international tourists and is a far easier place to get around, but Kaohsiung does have a distinctly more relaxed feel, and I did feel particularly at home here for that reason. In many respects, I was glad to be leaving Taiwan; yes, it had been a Monmouth holiday, but it had also been rather exhausting and testing at times.

We took a taxi from the hotel to the high-speed railway station, rather than getting the MRT train. I think both of us just wanted an easy final day, and didn't mind paying the extra $400 TWD for the luxury of getting to our destination, without having to walk to our nearest underground station.

Sleep was few and far between on this holiday, and anything that was going to help us endure the next few days was welcome. Luckily, we weren't flying until Friday, which at least gave us a night in a hotel before our two flights back to Australia. Flying home, back to Perth, is not my favourite thing to do. The flight is long and usually turbulent, so as I arrived at the train station, my anxiety levels were already elevated, to say the least.

We arrived early for the 12pm train from Zuoying to Taipei; thankfully, we had booked our tickets well in advance, so had reserved seats in the fifth carriage. While we waited, we took a last look at the famous bullet trains at the station. On the surface, they all look pretty normal, but these big beasts really do have a lot of power behind them. Travelling at 300 kmph, they are the quickest, most convenient way to get from one end of the island to the other, in just over two hours. I am in awe of these trains it has to be said, and once again I was looking forward to the journey back to the capital.

There was no time to eat lunch before we left Kaohsiung, so we grabbed a 'Bento Box' from a kiosk at the station. Now these are famous across Taiwan, Korea, and Japan and are a cheap way to purchase nutritious food on the go, that you can eat on the train. They are full of healthy ingredients, piping hot, and packed with flavour; point-blank, they are bloody delicious. Costing just $11.00 AUD for the two of us, they are also amazingly good value; had I bought them on the train, it would have cost significantly more!

The only real difficulty I had was eating with chopsticks, but as a Westerner, this is very much a work in progress. I am getting more used to using them, but eating large pieces of meat and small grains of rice, can be a challenge. The secret to using them is just to watch others, observe how they do it and follow their lead!

The journey from Zuoying to Taipei took two hours; there were eleven stations on the way, but it went so fast that you didn't even notice stopping. We did make one mistake, however. We got off the train at Taipei, when we should have alighted at Taoyuan Station, three stops before. This was the station closest to the airport and Novotel, where we were staying. By taking the train to Taipei, we added an extra hour to our journey, having to take the slower MRT from Taipei to the Airport Hotel. Having said that, The Novotel, had its own dedicated station, and it was relatively simple to get there, giving us more time to see Taipei!

When we arrived at The Novotel the rain had started to come down. It was also windy and stormy as we left the station and walked around the corner to the entrance. This was the first time we had seen any real rain in Taiwan; both of us were extremely lucky; most days we were there, temperatures were in the mid-thirties. It was really quite nice to end on a wet note, and just enjoy that fresh feel for a few hours, before we left for Perth in the morning.

'Jay Dean is swimming in the pool, and I am listening to Jennifer Rush on YouTube; the perfect end to one of the strangest holidays of my life.

Taiwan is unique, full of amazing characters, and above all, it was one of the most perplexing trips I have ever been on. This wonderful country is unlike anything I have ever experienced before. The culture is so different to any other east Asian country, that I have ever visited, and has left me rather baffled at times.

This is not a criticism of this small island, but rather a need to discover more about the people, customs, and society that makes up the dynamics of this place.

I would love to return to Taiwan in the future, but I fear this will be one of the last times we will see it in its current, free, democratic, all-embracing state. Change is coming, you can hear the march to war everywhere you go here, and that is deeply concerning and sad.

I have had an unforgettable experience in Taipei and Kaohsiung and hope we can continue our travels in six months' time, if circumstances allow. If only all nations could live in peace, all of you could experience the joy, Jay and I have, over the last few weeks.

However, for now, it looks likely, the draw bridge will be pulled firmly up, as all of us pray for conciliation and harmony across the globe! I remain philosophical about the future, but also realistic about the year ahead. Wherever you are, stay good, kind and empathetic towards everyone, whoever they are. The World deserves so much better!'

Je vis dans l'espoir!

The Novotel at Taoyuan Airport is a five-star luxury hotel, with superb facilities. Despite only being there for one night, it was wonderful to sleep in a soft comfy bed, eat the best food we had had all holiday, and just have one last day of pampering, before the arduous flight back home.

To our detriment, we have made mistakes in the past, booking inferior hotels for our final night and hated every minute of it. Paying more money was a wise move; everything was seamless, from our arrival to departure in the morning.

This was also one of the few places we were able to get authentic Taiwanese food. Everywhere else we had gone, either had Chinese or Western cuisine, which was, in truth, a little bit of a letdown. The good food was extremely welcome before the journey we had to take in the morning; I can highly recommend this place if you are in Taiwan, but there was a slight downside, although it didn't really affect me!

I had booked a room overlooking the airport, as a final treat on our last evening. I thoroughly enjoyed looking out at the planes outside. Personally, I couldn't hear anything from them at night while sleeping. I have slept with earplugs for years because of Darrell's snoring, so I couldn't hear any background noise while I tried to sleep. Darrell, however, found it rather difficult, complaining that he was woken up at 3am, by the sound of planes taking off.

This wasn't something I would have usually done, but for a few hundred dollars extra, it was a nice touch. Maybe I'll think twice before doing it again, but then Darrell was particularly annoyed at having to wake up early anyway, so I don't think it would have mattered where we slept. If you are a light sleeper or don't wear earplugs, maybe book a different room... If anything else, it will be cheaper anyway!

We left the hotel by free shuttle bus at 6.30 am and made our way to terminal 1 for our 10 am flight. We checked in relatively quickly; everything was straight forward and surprisingly there were no queues. Darrell was in a foul mood in the morning, probably because he had no sleep and wasn't looking forward to 21 hours of travelling. As for me, well, I slept like a log, so was feeling rather chipper and ready for the day ahead.

Darrell and I did a lot of shopping at the airport, in Taipei and Hong Kong. Despite budgeting for the holiday, I returned with over $2000. I thought I would have spent substantially more, but no... My budgeting skills are second to none these days and I take care of finances fantastically well. After years of spend, spend, spend, today I save, and I do it perfectly!

The flight from Taipei to Hong Kong took just over an hour. It was a little bumpy on the way over, but nothing too bad. Flying with Cathay Pacific, although expensive, was a good idea. Even in economy class, we were well looked after. The food, entertainment, and cabin crew were amazing.

With plenty to do and buy in Hong Kong, during our three-hour transit, I was more than happy to just relax before we flew to Perth.

The flight to Perth was horrendous, the most turbulent I have ever been on. I did something I don't usually do and drank a few glasses of wine. Do you know what, it worked; I actually had a fairly enjoyable flight. Sometimes you just have to do what you have to do!

When one of the lovely cabin crew came around with the meals, she managed to have a chat with me and explained that we had just flown through a typhoon. The captain had told her the first few hours were going to be bad. Thankfully we weren't told beforehand, or I would have been a nervous wreck.

The crew, food, and service were fantastic on this flight, and I am so glad I chose it over one of the cheaper airlines. I managed to watch a lot of episodes of 'Derry Girls' which is my new favourite TV show and thankfully we landed in one piece.

I had my usual problems with Border Force in Perth but was allowed to pass through after they investigated my residency status, as they always do, and we were home by just after midnight.

This was a truly unforgettable holiday, and I am glad I have managed to see Taiwan before the inevitable happens. Taiwanese people are friendly, willing to help and so polite. I will remember the time I spent in Taipei and Kaohsiung for all the wrong reasons, however, - the trials and tribulations of trying to find something to eat, the excruciating humidity (Which I love), the amazing transport system, the endearing Taiwanese culture and the beautiful places of cultural and historical interest. This was a unique holiday in a place many Westerners have never visited, and I am so happy to have dipped my toes into a country that has left an indelible mark on my life.

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Last Day in Kaohsiung!

23/10/2024

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Today is our last day in Kaohsiung; we had nothing planned for a change, and just wanted to take it easy, after the exhausting nature of this holiday. Once again we were up bright and early, even earlier than we are in Australia, just wanting to fit in as much as we could.

Breakfast was actually rather nice this morning; the buffet had more western choices than usual, including baked beans and sausages. You do have to be careful here though, if you leave your breakfast plate unattended for more than a few minutes, it is swiped by one of the overzealous waiting staff. They are all terribly efficient of course, this is Taiwan after all, but they need to give you more time to finish your food, before taking the plate away.

Prompt plate clearing, does actually seem to be a thing here in Taiwan. Wherever we have eaten, as soon as your plate is clear, it is taken away quickly, before you have hardly had time to digest your meal. This may well be one of the reasons why I haven't felt as relaxed in Taiwan, as I would have liked. I believe that there is such a high turn over of customers in eating establishments, that staff are just trained to get you moved on, as quick as possible.

We did try to get some lunch today, but as usual, it just didn't happen. Strangely, it does appear, that most restaurants only open between 11.30am and 1 or 2 pm. This really does seem odd, and isn't something I have seen anywhere else. As a European, I like to eat a meal slowly, soak in the atmosphere, and maybe take a few hours to savour the food, with a glass or two of wine. This really doesn't seem to happen in Taiwan; maybe people just do eat faster and leave quicker, due to their rather hectic lifestyles? If you know, please let me know!

Darrell and I were out at 8.15am this morning, walking to our local underground station, popping into Starbucks on the way. I have noticed that the roads and the underground system is particularly quiet at this time of day, in complete contrast to Australia or the UK. This was rather confusing at first. Does Kaohsiung or Taipei not have a rush hour? Well, today, I found out why, at least in Kaohsiung; the shops don't actually open until 11am, closing at 10pm. Finally, the penny dropped. We were literally waking up, six hours before the shops even open… who'd have thought it!

In the end, we grabbed a quick bite to eat in McDonald's, to my horror, but it was either that, or eat nothing at all. This has been the one aspect of life in Taiwan I have found hard. Searching for a decent place to eat, where you can relax, eating at a normal time of day, has almost been an impossible task. It is one of the reasons why we preferred to eat at the hotel each evening. Here we could dine when we wanted, and not rushed to leave as quickly as possible!

Taiwan has been a learning curve for us; I would love to return in twenty years and see just how much it has changed. Tourism is important for all Asian countries, and I'm sure as Taiwan opens up, more and more to western tourism, some of the more outdated practices will be changed. Café's and restaurants need to be open all day, to cater for people, if they can't, then tourists and visitors will vote with their feet.

I suppose my blog today does seem rather critical of Taiwan, and in a way it is. However, I believe this country will be a tourism hub of the future — just not yet. I am a traveller at heart, and do enjoy experiencing new cultures, but I have to end this entry by saying, that Taiwan has probably been the most difficult country to navigate yet, even more so than South Korea — challenging is an understatement, however, I wouldn't change our time here for the World!

Taiwan is unique, friendly, and welcoming and its people are generous, helpful and extremely respectful, why wouldn't you want to come? A holiday is about making memories, and we have made plenty of those to take with us on our travels. If you have doubts about coming to Taiwan, then don't — come, enjoy, and soak up this amazing country, but just don't expect it to be easy!

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Fo Guang Shan Buddha Museum, Kaohsiung!

22/10/2024

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We have had a pretty relaxing day today on the scale of things, certainly compared to the last two. With the temperature even hotter than yesterday, we decided not to overdo it. Instead, we took the E02 bus, from outside of the High-Speed Rail Station in Kaohsiung, for the thirty-minute ride to The Fo Guang Shan Buddha Museum. This was something we had both wanted to do, since researching our trip to Taiwan. The Buddha Museum regularly comes up on YouTube videos, and it is a go to place on most Taiwan travellers itineraries.

I really had no idea what to expect before we set off this morning, but since we didn't really want to travel too far outside of Kaohsiung, this seemed like the perfect destination, coming highly recommended on Trip Advisor.

We took the MRT train from our hotel, which took us straight through to the main HSR station. We were expecting a long wait for a bus, just a short walk from the MRT exit, to bus stop number 3, but as it happened, there was one waiting directly outside, and once again, we used our integrated easy card to pay for the journey to the museum.

I have many complaints about my time in Taiwan, but the transport system here isn't one of them. It works like a dream, and we have had no problems using this service in either Taiwan or Kaohsiung. The buses and trains are a little older than I expected, but they literally do the job. Sometimes, in the west, we have too higher expectations on what we expect, from a public transport system, and by using other countries buses and trains, you soon become aware, that not everything is done well in western nations. The infrastructure here works really well, and we in Australia, and especially the UK, have a lot to learn from it!

The Buddha Museum is indeed a wonderful place. The richly decorated buildings in the complex are stunning, each one better than the next. As a spiritual person, I have great respect for Buddhism, Taoism and other religions in this particular part of the World. As I navigated the grounds with Darrell, there were Monks walking quietly, contemplating, sat on benches reading, and happy to see us there. Many waved, smiled, and noted our presence. I felt comfortable being in a place that valued me, and my endeavor to find out more, about this Taiwanese landmark.

We walked through statues of gold, around a winding road, which took us to the Great Golden Buddha at the top. This was a stunning piece of architecture, unlike anything I had seen anywhere else, except on our numerous trips around Thailand. The sun illuminated this statue even more than it already was, and it made for a rather awe-inspiring moment.

This is what holidays are all about for me. I have to be doing something on vacation; visiting places of historic interest, an organised excursion, or exploring the area I am staying in. I am a history buff at heart, so I would much prefer to go somewhere with lots of things to see.

Taiwan doesn't have an awful lot of sites of historic interest, which does surprise me, but what it does have, is breathtaking, and out of this World. Unfortunately, I do judge a place by what is has to offer people like me, as a tourist; for that reason, I doubt if I would come back here in the future.

I suppose I fell in love with Thailand so much, that I have always compared other countries I have visited, to it. In Thailand there was a temple around every corner and that was perfect for a culture hound like me. Taiwan is a place where you really have to seek out notable landmarks, spending more time than I would like walking and queuing, in the extremely hot sun! This of course, doesn't detract from the time we have had in Taiwan, both of us have enjoyed it immensely!

We were back at the hotel by 2.30pm this afternoon, where we booked a table in the Chinese restaurant at the 40th floor. As we are on the final leg of our journey in Taiwan, we are gradually winding down how much we are doing. Darrell and I must have sounded like a couple of old men, talking about our hip, knee, and leg problems, whilst navigating the streets of Kaohsiung; we have even talked about doing more relaxing holidays in the future... Yes, that did make me shudder! Still, we have a few days left in Taiwan and will make the most of our time here, until we leave on Thursday, when we return to Taipei!

Dinner in the Sky Restaurant was divine tonight - eight courses of pure heaven, consisting of everything from duck, fish, shellfish and other things I have never heard of. The food in the hotel is particularly delicious, and although I am not a huge fan of Chinese cuisine, I thought I would give it a try. Absolutely everything was perfect and very healthy for a change.

The service in the restaurant, indeed the whole hotel is second to none, but then when you pay for five stars, this is what you expect. It's the small things, the attention to detail, and the fact they remember your requirements, that make it special. The Han-Hsien International is a truly superb place to stay.

After dinner we popped to The Sky Bar for a couple of cocktails to finish the night. The view from the 40th floor of our hotel is spectacular; you can see how vast this city is. It isn't as big as Taipei, but as the second largest in Taiwan, it is up there with some of the biggest cities in the World. This hasn't been an easy holiday by no means, but it is a holiday I will remember for pushing me out of my comfort zone, and showing me a part of Asia, not many westerners have seen. This is an amazing holiday destination in the making, just watch this space!

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Lotus Pond - Tiger and Dragon Pagoda, Autumn and Spring Pagoda, Zuoying Yuandi Temple, Pier 2 and The Dome of Light!

21/10/2024

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The day started off well this morning, although the breakfast at the five-star Han-Hsien was a little lack luster, compared to what was on offer at the Cozzi in Taipei. I do understand we are in Asia, but as an international hotel, they really do need to cater for all guests. This blog post will seem a little whingy today, but I am writing as I find things, and today didn't end too well!

The south of Taiwan does have a distinctly Chinese feel, where the north and Taipei was more Japanese. The contrast between these two regions is stark. Although Kaohsiung is quieter and more relaxing, it is also a lot more difficult to navigate. The western influence in Taipei really is noticeable - here, it seems distant, and there is very little English spoken. If you are intending to visit this area, you should bear this in mind. Southern Taiwan isn't really equipped to cater for western tourists in my opinion, so you are very much left to your own devises in Kaohsiung. Maybe, just maybe, tourists like me are just too entitled anyway, and we really should just do what the locals do?

The heat was already rising when we left our hotel first thing this morning, so we popped into Starbucks for a quick drink: an Oolong Tea for me and an iced coffee for Darrell. Once again, we had no firm plans for the day and that was a big mistake. If you don't plan things, you are going to spend most of the time walking around aimlessly and that is exactly what we did.

Tonight, I am at the hotel blogging, tired and exhausted, having achieved very little. Of course, the humidity is high here; at 34 degrees today, it is particularly debilitating. The biggest mistake we have made on this holiday, is not sorting out an itinerary. We both thought we could just go and wing it. Well, we couldn't, and should have looked closer at this place, before arriving yesterday.

I have spent the last four months researching Taiwan extensively, and I thought I had it in the bag, but looking randomly at YouTube videos was not enough. I have discovered that most influencers just do not tell the truth, about where they are visiting. The places I have been to, recommended by different broadcasters, were not all that special. But, however, there was one place both Darrell and I thoroughly enjoyed, and it was all thanks to a gentleman called Kai!

Our first stop this morning was at The Lotus Pond in Kaohsiung. This is a place, famous across the internet, especially on YouTube. It consists of a series of pagodas, situated idyllically next to temples, and other buildings of historic interest. These richly decorated places of pilgrimage are must-see destinations, if you are travelling to the south of Taiwan. They were the highlight of my day today, and it is an experience I will remember for years to come.

On the Spring and Autumn Pagoda, we waked through the mouth of the dragon for good luck. This is something all tourists do, and we were no different. It was rather beautiful inside the belly of the dragon and was indeed a wonderful experience. However, there was disappointment, with the Dragon and Tiger Pavillion still closed for renovations. This is the largest and most famous of the landmarks, and one tourists visit from all over the World. Sadly, we weren't able to see it in its full glory, but at least the rest of The Lotus Pond didn't fail to disappoint!

From the Spring and Autumn Pagoda, we walked the short distance to the Zuoying Yuandi Temple, gazing in awe at the amazing Taoist architecture, glistening in the sunlight. Walking across the walkway, out into the middle of the pond, was indeed magnificent. As we entered the temple, the smell of incense filled the air, thankfully detracting from our overly sweaty appearance, after walking miles in the searing heat.

As I looked around this special place, I was approached by a guy called Kai, who just asked, if I would like him to tell me a bit about this Taoist temple. Having been in these situations before, I was initially reluctant, thinking this was a scam, but nothing could have been further from the truth!

Kai couldn't have been any more than twenty years old, and he spoke perfect English and also conversed in French, to a small group who joined us for an impromptu tour of this Taoist temple. He talked in great detail about the meaning behind the burning of incense and other aspects of symbolism, that is so important to all religions. I found his talk informative and enlightening; it really allowed us to feel a part of this iconic landmark, in a way we wouldn't otherwise.

From my initial chat with Kai, I believe he wants to become a tour guide, and enjoys talking with tourists, getting tremendous satisfaction from this valuable interaction. I have also looked up reviews of this temple on google and found Kai's name prominently featured. He was welcoming, inquisitive, and genuinely happy to be around us, and others he was speaking to. Both Darrell and I feel lucky to have met him and enjoyed his company immensely. If you do visit this temple, do keep a look out for him. This young man gave us his time and energy for free, and although I would have paid him generously, I didn't want to offend him, or his good nature.

Thank you, Kai, you were truly amazing!

After we had completed the tour of The Lotus Pond, we took a long forty-minute walk back to the nearest MRT station, to continue our journey onto Dream Mall, where Darrell wanted to buy some clothes. Now, I am not a fan of shopping malls on holiday, and certainly not ones seven stories high. It was literally impossible to find anything in such a short space of time.

I was beginning to feel a little irritable. Darrell and I are like chalk and cheese - what he likes, I hate, and vice versa. Usually this works well, and our opposite personalities, likes and dislikes, gel well together. Today, however, I was just not enjoying the shopping experience at all. I work in a mall every day of my life, and do not want to spend my holiday in one.

I was a little snappy towards Darrell in the end and just wanted to leave.

Part of the problem here, is the lack of public transport in Kaohsiung. Despite having an underground and tram system, there are very few stops on these integrated modes of transport, and you do find yourself walking huge distances in between. Today I have done nearly 30000 steps, and I am really feeling the pain at my age. I can only think that this modern transport system, is in its infancy, and as yet not developed enough, to cover this city comprehensively. If you are a little older like me, just take this into account when planning your journey. The astronomical amount of walking you will cover between public transport hubs, isn't for the faint hearted, and can become overwhelming; several bottles of water, decent walking shoes and an umbrella for the heat or rain is an absolute necessity!

After the shopping mall we headed back to the tram and a short ride to Pier 2, an art installation on the dockside of the city. Now, here is a destination, that I had no idea what to expect from. I knew it would be alternative, and a little bit different, but for me it was also an anticlimax. There were plenty of overpriced shops, built into a series of old warehouses, selling some pretty gorgeous stuff, but that was just about it.

Most of the items for sale, we couldn't buy, due to Australia's strict border controls. You cannot bring wooden items into the country, so there was no point buying any. Sadly, there was very little else on offer, and with the heat becoming unbearable, we decided to head home, stopping briefly at The Dome of Light.

The Dome of Light is essentially situated at Formosa Boulevard, an underground station on Kaohsiung's MRT network. It has become extremely famous online, especially on YouTube, and is a stunning place to visit whilst on your travels if you have time.

Darrell and I returned back to the Han-Hsien, for dinner in the Tea Rooms on the 2nd floor. We have found the food situation in Taiwan, most frustrating if I am honest. Maybe it's because we enjoy our western comforts too much, but we have just found it hard to find a place to sit, relax, eat a meal, and take in the local scenery. Here, everything seems rather rushed; you are either eating expensive street food, surrounded by hordes of people, or looking for a place where you can sit comfortably, which isn't the norm here. There are queues of people everywhere, all trying to find somewhere to sit, even in McDonalds! So far, except for when we travelled to Jiufen, we haven't found any decent places to eat.

Now I know this will be controversial, and people will say we are just winging foreigners, but come on, if you are a large city, you need to cater for everyone, not just the few. If like us, you find it difficult to navigate the local restaurants, stay in an international hotel. It is a lot more expensive, but it does make it a more pleasurable experience.

Tomorrow is another day, and we just hope it gets a little better, if not we'll just put it down to experience. Please don't take my comments the wrong way, Taiwan is a beautiful place, and the people are absolutely fantastic, we have just found it difficult dealing with certain aspects of life here. If we return here in future, there will be less reliance on YouTube/Instagram influencers, and more research done, on more authentic websites.

Not everything is as it seems!

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Bullet Train to Kaohsiung

20/10/2024

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Despite the internet problems at The Cozzi Hotel in Taipei, I was sad to leave there today. It has been a real home from home over the last five days, and I have thoroughly enjoyed staying there. The bed was the comfiest I have ever slept in, while staying away from home, and it has been wonderful in every respect.

These days I prefer to go first class, my days of backpacking around the globe are well and truly over, if they were ever a thing in the first place. On the way to our current Hotel, The Han-Hsien International in Kaohsiung, as we left the station, dragging our luggage the 1.5km to this top-class establishment, Darrell remarked, how I would gladly pay for a five-star hotel, but refuse to pay for a taxi to get there! Yes, he's right, I will never pay for transport, unless it's free. We both have legs, and need to keep fit, so I'm walking, come hell or high water!

Sitting eating our last breakfast at The Cozzi, I glanced momentarily out of the window, onto the street outside. There were queues and queues of people lining up around the block, to get Taipei's most famous breakfast. Personally, I was quite happy, sat eating a lovely morning feast, while people were queuing in the rain... I couldn't think of anything worse. So far, I haven't found any food I would queue for here anyway; I have yet to be convinced!

The drizzle had started early in Taipei, and we were leaving just in time. The rain will keep falling the entire time we are down south, where the sun is luckily shining every day. Of course, the rain is very different in 32-degree temperatures, but to be honest I have literally had enough of the wet stuff, leaving the wettest winter in Australia for years, behind.

We had a while to wait at Taipei's main station, before we could catch the Bullet Train to Kaohsiung, so we grabbed a couple of pastries and a green tea and Guava juice drink. To Darrell's absolute horror, there were no Starbucks coffee shops anywhere to be found. For me, however, it was a bonus, since I can't stand the bloody places anyway.

The facilities were quite sparse at the train station, but then it was Sunday, and most of the places were closed anyway. It is strange observing how other cultures tick, and Taiwan really seems to be a law unto itself. Unlike any other Southeast Asian country, I have stayed in before, the food is extremely fattening, and calorific; everything seems to be deep fried. I can only assume it is the western influence, everywhere you go. Point blank, there are a lot of overweight Taiwanese; in China, I doubt you would see the same thing!

After going through the gate to the platform, we waited patiently for the Bullet Train to arrive. These really are magnificent pieces of engineering, built for speed. To get from Taipei in the north, to Kaohsiung in the South, it would take just two hours, travelling at speeds of up to 300 KPH. You can of course, take a local train if you prefer, but the journey would be significantly longer and definitely not as comfortable.

We were in Carriage 4, seats 12D and 12E. Like all Trains in Taiwan, we queued patiently at the designated platform area for our carriage, and when the train arrived, it literally pulled up exactly where we were standing. The side, doors opened automatically to let you on board; everything worked like clockwork. It was efficient, there was no pushing and shoving, especially due to the polite nature of the Taiwanese anyway, and everything was done in a speedy, timely manner, with no fuss or delays. This is how a train service should be run!

The carriage was bright and airy, and the leg room, unlike anything I have seen before. Despite the super-fast speed the train was travelling, it was comfortable, and you barely knew you were even moving. It was the most pleasurable train journey I have ever taken. Whether Taiwan, Japan or China, they know how to do public transport right, Europe just can't, and it really shows.

You could have bought food on board, but at $50 AUD for a bento box, it wasn't something I was going to pay for (Here's the tight wad in me coming out again.) If we had thought about it earlier, we would have picked something up at the station, but with the journey being relatively short, it really didn't matter too much.

It was a rather relaxing, stress-free journey, sitting there staring out of the train window, looking at the scenery pass by. I have always loved this form of transport anyway. The movement is often enough to make me fall asleep, but I was determined to stay awake and not miss this experience for anything.

Taiwan is very green and lush, but at the same time extremely industrialised. It was captivating seeing the contrast between the two worlds on our trip, and really shows how densely populated this tiny island is. It isn't as modern as I was expecting, but the High-Speed Rail is in a class of its own. This is what I came to Taiwan to experience, and it didn't let me down.

We arrived in Kaohsiung dead on time and headed straight to the MRT station, where we could still use our fully charged 'Easy Card' to pay for the journey. We were about eight stops away from the hotel, which wasn't too long. Like everywhere in Taiwan however, the underground was crowded, with little room to move. When you have four suitcases in tow, it can be a bit of a squash to say the least; you certainly get up close and personal, if you know what I mean.

After walking to the hotel, here we are! Just look at that stupendous view from our room on the 26th floor. It will be a real pleasure blogging from here over the night five days, that's for sure. The only reason I chose this hotel, was because of the pool for Darrell, otherwise we would have been closer to the city, but so far, I'm impressed, despite the astronomical cost.

We have a dinner reservation for six, so it's time I got ready!

After settling into the hotel, we went for a much-needed meal at the 'Tea Lounge' restaurant, in the hotel. With all the travelling we have done today, we just didn't have time for food, so rather than going out, we thought we would eat in. To be honest, we weren't disappointed, the food was great compared to what we had eaten in Taipei.

For $1550 TWD, about $75.00 AUD, we had a lovely three course meal and two beers each. It tasted amazing, and we could really eat as much as we wanted. After ordering the main, there was also a salad, soup and desert bar, all totally free of charge, which was certainly a bonus. The beer was also the large 600ml bottles, not the small 300 ml ones...So, I am feeling a little merry should we say. You can definitely tell I don't drink much these days.

I have to say, I am getting quite a taste for Taiwan Beer these days. It is strong with a really nutty taste, and it is hitting the spot. At only $7 AUD a bottle it is also less than half the price you pay back home. Taiwan isn't the cheapest destination in the World, in fact it is positively expensive, but it is still significantly cheaper than Australia... How can I complain!

After dinner we had a quick walk around the area and were surprised at how remarkably different it is to Taipei. It must be a newer city, because it doesn't have the small winding lanes that Taipei does. The open, boulevard, New York style layout, is a refreshing change, and really gives it a modern feel. Both Darrell and I are looking forward to exploring more of this amazing place tomorrow, but for now, it is time for bed; God knows I'm shattered!

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Elephant Mountain and the world's first Cat Cafe!

19/10/2024

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It was yet another early one this morning, as we made our way towards the Elephant Trail in Taipei. The Elephant trail, East of the city of Taipei, at the end of the red MRT line, takes you to an amazing vista, overlooking the city; it is really a site to behold. Rain was expected to fall by lunchtime, and we wanted to fit in as much as we could beforehand.

As it happens, there was no rain today in Taipei, right up until we had dinner at 6pm, so we really had no reason to get up so early. Part of the problem with predicting the weather in Taiwan, is, just like the UK, you can't get it entirely accurate. As an island, the weather systems change constantly, often without warning. I've learnt to take anything my weather app says with a pinch of salt, and just do what I feel is right.

The trek up to the viewing platforms, showcasing Taipei's city scape in all its glory, was at times painful, but also exhilarating. The temperature wasn't too hot at 8.30 in the morning, but as soon as we began the long walk to the top, the sun came out and the mercury began to rise. By the time Darrell and I reached the first viewing platform, we were sweating like a glass blowers ar*e. Puffing and panting, we had a long way to go, before we reached the top!

There were plenty of locals and tourists alike walking the Elephant tail, so many in fact, it was often difficult meandering between the growing throng of people. Most of them were of course polite, and allowed others to pass, the narrow, winding stairs easily. There were a few however, who were just darn right rude, and entitled, and as usual, the Americans came top of the list. Blocking stairs, talking loudly and preventing people from trying to get past them, seemed to be top of their list of annoyances. Asians are a lot more respectful and deferential to others, and it is to America's shame, that their citizens act in such a rude way! As an individual, I always let others pass before me, and was brought up to hold doors open for anyone following closely behind. Manners in America, appear to be sadly lacking

We finally reached the top, after just over an hour of walking. It was comforting to see a defibrillator on every landing, on our way up to the summit, but made me a little anxious, as I gingerly made my way up to the top, breathing heavily as I went. I was well aware of just how unfit I was, as I stumbled, and finally collapsed on a waiting bench overlooking the city of Taipei, at the pinnacle of the mountain.

The views were truly magnificent; unlike anything I had seen before. Although I was out of breath, I also had a great sense of satisfaction, that I had completed the marathon climb. It certainly does make you feel invigorated, and full of life.

Despite my achievement, I was tired, exhausted, and shattered as I started to make my way down the other side of the mountain. By the time I had reached the bottom I was ringing in sweat, and badly in need of a drink. Looking over my shoulder at the mountain behind, I was amazed by just how far I had come personally. It wasn't that long ago; I was weighing in at 100kg, and out of breath after just walking up a flight of stairs. Today I can walk up a mountain, and most importantly, I am 25kg lighter. Thankfully, I can now enjoy doing the things I've always wanted to do, and that really does make me happy.

Soaked in sweat, with temperatures hitting 32 degrees, we made our way to the MRT underground line and headed to Starbucks for a cold drink. I love coming here as a blogger, because they literally have the fastest WIFI in the World. I was able to upload all of my photographs and videos in a matter of minutes. I mean, how the hell can Starbucks have a decent internet connection, but everywhere else doesn't?... It really beggars' belief. Still, I'm not complaining, since it gives me more time to enjoy my holiday.

Darrell has already complained I spend too much time blogging, but, as a writer, it is something I have to do, every day, I know Darrell does find that difficult at times, but it is just a fact of life for me; I would love to take a break and switch off, but I know it just isn't going to happen.

From Taipei 101, we jumped on the MRT Red line and went to our next destination - Taipei's famous cat cafe. In fact, we went to the World first Cat Cafe, opened in 1998. Once again, I would love to tell you the name, but it is in Taiwanese, as you would expect, which I am unable to decipher. However, if you watch the brief video below, you will see me reference it at the end of the recording.

Darrell and I have been to many Cat Cafes all over the World, and I can safely say this one was the best. The cats, dogs and a bird in the care of the owners were happy, well cared for, and looked after, and I was delighted to sit there, drinking Taiwanese Apple Tea, and eating a delicious homemade piece of cake.

Cat Cafes can often be terrible places to visit. The last one we went to in Chiang Mai, had a profound effect on me, and I vowed never to return to one again. The animals there were badly looked after, and the place stunk of urine. Here in the World's first Cat Cafe, the animals were squeaky clean, and a joy to be around. I did breathe a sigh of relief - my faith in humanity had been restored.

This is a must-see destination for any cat lover that comes to Taiwan, and I would happily return again and again. I have never felt so welcome at an establishment in my life, but things didn't stay happy for long.

By the time we left the cafe, at 2pm, both Darrell and I were ravenous, the last time we had eaten was at breakfast, so we tried to find a place to get a late lunch. Now this was the one aspect of Taiwan I detested. We could not find anywhere to eat! We spend a good two hours looking for somewhere, just to sit and relax - to no avail. Everywhere was either full, or hosting events, and there was just nowhere to go.

How can a place with so many inhabitants, have so few decent places to eat? I have never had any problems, in any other country, seeking out a bistro or cafe, but here in Taipei, it had become an impossible task. In the end we gave up, and started to make our way back towards our hotel. Luckily however, we stumbled across somewhere to eat, a block away from the COZZI, where we are staying - Nora's Kitchen.

This was a particularly disappointing end, to an otherwise fabulous day, which has been somewhat tarnished. A large International city like Taipei, should have better facilities. Whether you are crammed nose to nose on the MRT, fighting over a seat in a restaurant or just looking for somewhere to grab a quick coffee, there should be more choice on offer and please provide somewhere to sit. Not everyone wants to stand up eating a pastry.

Tomorrow, we head south to Kaohsiung, and the hope is, we will find a more relaxed vibe, where we can unwind a little more. Taipei has been a wonderful place to visit, but both of us just haven't spent enough time relaxing. This is a large, hectic city, so you expect a lot of hustle and bustle, but even when we stayed in the bigger Bangkok, we could find somewhere to relax - In Taipei, it can be an almost impossible task. Nevertheless, it has been a fantastic journey in this friendly city, and I have some wonderful memories to take home to Australia with me!

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An Unforgettable Day in Jiufen!

18/10/2024

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Evening all… Tonight I am back at the hotel, after an exhausting twelve hours in Jiufen. I guess I must be getting old, all tucked up in bed at 8.30pm, but it really has been a tiring day. To make matters worse, the hotel internet connection is just not working for me. It has a totally insecure connection, which will just not work on my laptop. I am therefore having to pay for my own Wi-Fi, through my mobile phone provider in Australia. Paying $20 AUD for 5 GB of data, isn't too bad on the scale of things. I am using about 2 GB a day, so by the time we leave next week, it would have cost me about $80 AUD — No real biggie.

Now, I didn't know it was going to be this bad here, but you would think a large hotel, like COZZI, would at least have a secure connection for its guests. I will be complaining, as you would expect. If you are coming to Taiwan, and staying at this otherwise first class hotel, may I suggest you seek alternative arrangements for internet use, like me. It will cost you, but at least you will have peace of mind, having a secure connection to the internet!

We had an early start this morning, waking at 5.15am. I wanted to make the most of the last sunny day in Taipei, before we leave and travel south on Sunday. We had another wonderful breakfast at the hotel, sat looking towards the urban sprawl outside. The truth is, I am a lover of city life, and have missed living in a busy metropolis since leaving Portsmouth, two years ago. Taipei is a city like no other and is home to over seven million people, so you can imagine, just how busy it is on a daily basis.

As I sat there eating my freshly cooked omelette, glancing at the Taipei Times, I was immediately struck by world events that were shaping this small country. Tensions are running high in this region, with China having just completed a military exercise, off the coast of this island. Of course China would claim, Taipei is part of the mainland, while Taiwan wants its independence, and a future very much rooted in the western world.

I know nothing of the geopolitics at work here, but I understand just how beautiful this country is, and how welcoming Taiwanese people are. I would hate to see this country forever changed, under the watchful eye of Communist China!

With a particularly fine day on the horizon, we had decided to travel north, to the World-famous city of Jiufen, situated, idyllically, in the green lush hills this island is famous for. This is a destination I have wanted to explore for many years, and is another place crossed off my bucket list.

We took a local TRA train, from Taipei main station at just after 8am this morning; both of us are getting used to navigating the transport system now, and actually find it pretty easy to get around. The train was absolutely packed with commuters, trying to get to work, so, feeling rather tired, we both had to stand for the first twenty minutes of the hour-long journey.

As the train passed through the north of Taipei, I was struck by just how old the infrastructure is. I don't really know what I expected, but I thought Taiwan would be far more modern than it actually is. This northern region does seem rather neglected, compared to the capital, but everything seems to function well, and the journey was pleasant enough.

We arrived at Ruifang railway station, about ten minutes away from Jiufen, absolutely spot on time. Immediately, we made a beeline for the bus stop in Resident square, taking the 1062 bus to our final destination.

Now I just want to say a word or two about Taiwans Easy Card system, since that is what we have been using to get around, since we arrived on Wednesday. When we alighted at Taipei main station, we purchased the 'Easy Card' from the local ticket office. You can top this card up at any time, and use it to pay for everything, from train, bus, and boat travel, to groceries and restaurants across the whole of the country, not just in Taipei.

This is the best system of integration I have ever seen, and is so easy to use and top up, using one of the many machines, at stations and other participating outlets. Despite the creaking nature of Taiwan's infrastructure in places, this little card is a blessing for a tourist like me, and has allowed us to travel throughout this city was complete ease!

The ten-minute drive to Jiufen, was hair-raising to say the least, with the bus taking corners so fast, I feared for my life at times. Even Darrell was firmly strapped into his seat, just wishing for the bus ride to be over as quick as possible.

We definitely made the right decision to come early to Jiufen. The narrow tiled streets were completely empty and quiet, giving us time to walk patiently around, without being hassled by shop vendors and restaurateurs. This was actually the most relaxed I have felt since being in Taiwan; I would certainly advise anyone travelling to Jiufen to get there as early as possible, just to get a feel of the place, before the hoards of tourists arrive!

We stopped and had a coffee, and in my case, a carrot juice, in a beautiful café overlooking the ocean. Sadly I just can't remember the name, but it was set over three floors, right on the corner, of one of Jiufen's main streets. It offered panoramic views of the coastline and hills surrounding the city. It was a joy, sitting there, just breathing in the fresh sea air, before the heat really began to bite.

After morning coffee, we ventured back out into the street — it was packed. In that brief half an hour we were sat inside the restaurant, bus loads of tourists had arrived, and all the souvenir shops had opened their doors. This was of course a delight for me, since I love small 'nick nack' shops, selling tasteless fridge magnets, postcards and obje d'art. Part of the enjoyment of going on holiday, for me, is taking home little reminders; every time I look at them, I can be transported back to happy times in Asia. Darrell, on the other hand, can't stand the amount of stuff I bring home, and the money I spend. Still, after leaving all my belongings back in The UK, I've got a lot of stuff to make up for.

After walking the entire length of Jiufen, we went back to the same restaurant we had coffee in earlier, for a spot of lunch and a few beers. If I go to a place, and like it, I will return again and again. The restaurant was perfect in my book, if a little expensive, but then, who 'penny pinches' on holiday? I know I certainly don't.

I ordered delicious homemade Taiwanese dumplings, some Tiramisu, (Clearly catering for western tastes) a large Taiwan Beer, and some warm Japanese Saki rice wine, which really hit the spot. The food, service, ambience, and atmosphere was just faultless, and given the opportunity I would return again and again. Sadly, I'm not sure when we will get back to Taiwan in the future, but unlike Vietnam, I would love to go back and relive my time here at the earliest opportunity.

To end our brief visit to Jiufen, we walked around to the other side of the mountain, this hillside city is built into, where we could see just how beautiful it is. It reminded me of our time in Sorrento and Amalfi in Italy, as well as the many holidays we spent with family in Croatia. Both of these places had similar mountainous, rocky coastlines — dramatic and awe-inspiring. Both Darrell and I agree (for a change) about just how special northern Taiwan is. I could have quite easily spent the whole holiday here, despite the thousands of tourists, and I am just thankful we had the opportunity to visit when we did.

I do worry about what will happen to Taiwan in the future, which is why we decided to go now, and not later. There is so much upheaval in the World at the moment, that neither Darrell nor I, are sure when we will leave Australia again. I suspect war is coming, but I am hopeful, the World can pull back from the brink before it's too late, and all of us can live our lives in peace.

Whether we are British, Australian, Russian, or Taiwanese, we are all human, just trying to get by in this crazy World right now. This holiday is special, because it could be the last one we have until the political climate changes for the better. I have my fingers crossed for the future; I certainly didn't want to end this blog on a down note, but sometimes you just have to say what's on your mind, as I have done this evening, good or bad.

Chao for now!

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Taipei 101, Chiang Kai Shek Memorial and Raohe Night Market!

17/10/2024

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Taipei 101

I think I must be getting brave in my old age; today I did something I don't usually do and go up, what was the World's tallest tower until 2015 — Taipei 101. Darrell's hip is playing up, so we had to take the MRT train to the tower, rather than walk, as I suggested. To be honest, I have put on so much weight over the last few days, the more walking I do the better, but my other half has other ideas. Taiwanese food is not by any shape of the imagination healthy. Unlike the rest of Asia, its food has a distinctly western feel about it, with plenty of fried chicken and high carb delights on the menu; this is not a place to visit if you don't want to put on weight, and certainly isn't for the faint-hearted.

It is rather difficult trying to avoid the unhealthy food here, as much as I have tried. Even at breakfast this morning, the food was most certainly high in fat, with only a small selection of fruit on offer. When I get home from this holiday, I am going to have to do a lot of keeping fit, to get back to the way I was!

The views from the top of the tower were spectacular, even if the cost of going up to the observation deck was extortionate. The price for the two of us was $1200 TWD, which is about $60 AUD. Nevertheless, this is a must-do activity, if you are visiting Taipei.

The observation deck is indeed one of the best I have seen; dotted throughout the 360 degree viewing platform, are a number of what I can only describe as, 'kitsch follies.' Here you can sit and have your photo taken, in front of the different urban backdrops behind, adding an extra element of excitement, as you explore the city outside. These displays, almost childlike in nature, are extremely Taiwan centric, and me and Darrell loved them. We are both Hello Kitty fans, so you can imagine how thrilled we were to be surrounded, by things we absolutely adore. Taiwan suits our own sensibility, and is a particularly fun place to be!

After spending nearly $300 AUD in the souvenir shop at the top of the tower, we made our way down into the rather exclusive shopping mall below. This vast complex is populated with designer labels — including Cartier, Yves Saint Laurent, Armani, and many others; all of which were completely out of our price range. I'm a cheap and cheerful kinda bloke at heart, more op shop than designer shop, and I certainly wouldn't be wasting money on overpriced clothes, especially when there are so many knock offs in the markets outside. It was, however, nice to see, how the other half live — Would I want it myself? Well, no, probably not!

From luxury and excess, we headed to culinary perfection. We found The Angel Cafe on our way back to the hotel; it was a little gem, tucked away down a particularly exclusive side street. This was a western style establishment, serving food with a knife and fork… YES, a knife and fork, and not chopsticks, as is usual here. Darrell finds it particularly difficult to eat with chopsticks, and I could hear a sigh of relief, as we sat down to eat.

Darrell had Linguine with mushrooms and truffle and I had Hungarian pork. Both dishes tasted wonderful and certainly filled a hole, washed down with a couple of bottles of beer. This wasn't a cheap option however, and, although I enjoyed the ambience and food, it was quite an expensive meal, costing $100 AUD. Sometimes, though, it is worth paying more for something special, and special it was!

Chiang Kai Shek Memorial Hall

After lunch, we headed to the Chiang Kai Shek Memorial Hall and Gardens. This is something I have wanted to see for many years. It is a wonderful monument, full of history; richly decorated, it is a superb example of Taiwanese architecture and I just love it. There were so many echoes of our time in Seoul, South Korea: The colours and style were, to the untrained eye, identical, and it was definitely one of those wow moments, when I saw it.

By the time we arrived, the sun was high in the sky, and it was very hot. There is very little cover in the memorial grounds themselves, but the surrounding gardens, with lush green vegetation, and KOI carp swimming in a beautifully presented lake, is a welcome pit stop, during the heat of the day. This has been my favourite part so far and wherever we go now, will have a lot to live up to.

Raohe Night Market

To end the day, we headed to the World famous Raohe Night Market, just a few stops on the underground, from our hotel. This is a destination I have seen a lot of, on YouTube, and I had a good idea what to expect. The market was crowded with tourists, and you could hardly move through the thronging crowds, without elbowing someone in the face. The food itself is not the best, and is pretty standard stuff really. We bought a doughnut burger, followed by a sausage on a stick and finally a large piece of fried chicken with topping of your choice.

As you walk through the market, you can smell the popular 'stinky tofu,' a popular dish in Taiwan, that smells like sewage. That is enough to put me off for life. On top of this, there is also the odour of Dorian fruit, again an aroma akin to a blocked drainage system, and not something I even want to try. Apparently, both of these dishes taste absolutely wonderful, but I just can't bring myself to eat something that smells so bad.

Finally, back at the hotel, we are relaxing ahead of another busy day tomorrow. So far we are both enjoying this hospitable Asian country, especially the incredible sites, polite people, amazing MRT train system and vibrancy of Taipei itself. However, the food hasn't so far lived up to my expectations. I haven't eaten anything, I thought I would like to eat again, and I am still seeking that perfect dish. Also, the food is terribly fattening and has played havoc with mine and Darrell's IBS and all that entails! (what a lovely thought for this evening)

I do always find myself comparing the countries I visit, to my favourite Asian country of choice, Thailand, and nothing has so far lived up to it yet. I fell in love with Bangkok, the first time I saw it, Taipei is a city that is slowly growing on me. Furthermore, I just hope by the end of the week, I have another amazing destination to add to my list, of countries I would like to return to again; until then, my judgement is well and truly reserved. After all, we have only been here two days, a lot can change in the next ten!

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<<Previous

From a new life in spain, to an old life in britain, 'roaming brit' documents uncertain times!

Bite/Infection? — The aftermath of our holiday to Taiwan!

Clayborne in Taiwan!

From Taipei and Kaohsiung, we return home to Australia!

Last Day in Kaohsiung!

Fo Guang Shan Buddha Museum, Kaohsiung!

Lotus Pond - Tiger and Dragon Pagoda, Autumn and Spring Pagoda, Zuoying Yuandi Temple, Pier 2 and The Dome of Light!

Bullet Train to Kaohsiung

Elephant Mountain and the world's first Cat Cafe!

An Unforgettable Day in Jiufen!

Taipei 101, Chiang Kai Shek Memorial and Raohe Night Market!

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