An Unforgettable Day in Jiufen!

Evening all… Tonight I am back at the hotel, after an exhausting twelve hours in Jiufen. I guess I must be getting old, all tucked up in bed at 8.30pm, but it really has been a tiring day. To make matters worse, the hotel internet connection is just not working for me. It has a totally insecure connection, which will just not work on my laptop. I am therefore having to pay for my own Wi-Fi, through my mobile phone provider in Australia. Paying $20 AUD for 5 GB of data, isn't too bad on the scale of things. I am using about 2 GB a day, so by the time we leave next week, it would have cost me about $80 AUD — No real biggie. 

Now, I didn't know it was going to be this bad here, but you would think a large hotel, like COZZI, would at least have a secure connection for its guests. I will be complaining, as you would expect. If you are coming to Taiwan, and staying at this otherwise first class hotel, may I suggest you seek alternative arrangements for internet use, like me. It will cost you, but at least you will have peace of mind, having a secure connection to the internet!

We had an early start this morning, waking at 5.15am. I wanted to make the most of the last sunny day in Taipei, before we leave and travel south on Sunday. We had another wonderful breakfast at the hotel, sat looking towards the urban sprawl outside. The truth is, I am a lover of city life, and have missed living in a busy metropolis since leaving Portsmouth, two years ago. Taipei is a city like no other and is home to over seven million people, so you can imagine, just how busy it is on a daily basis.

As I sat there eating my freshly cooked omelette, glancing at the Taipei Times, I was immediately struck by world events that were shaping this small country. Tensions are running high in this region, with China having just completed a military exercise, off the coast of this island. Of course China would claim, Taipei is part of the mainland, while Taiwan wants its independence, and a future very much rooted in the western world.

I know nothing of the geopolitics at work here, but I understand just how beautiful this country is, and how welcoming Taiwanese people are. I would hate to see this country forever changed, under the watchful eye of Communist China!

With a particularly fine day on the horizon, we had decided to travel north, to the World-famous city of Jiufen, situated, idyllically, in the green lush hills this island is famous for. This is a destination I have wanted to explore for many years, and is another place crossed off my bucket list.

We took a local TRA train, from Taipei main station at just after 8am this morning; both of us are getting used to navigating the transport system now, and actually find it pretty easy to get around. The train was absolutely packed with commuters, trying to get to work, so, feeling rather tired, we both had to stand for the first twenty minutes of the hour-long journey. 

​As the train passed through the north of Taipei, I was struck by just how old the infrastructure is. I don't really know what I expected, but I thought Taiwan would be far more modern than it actually is. This northern region does seem rather neglected, compared to the capital, but everything seems to function well, and the journey was pleasant enough.

We arrived at Ruifang railway station, about ten minutes away from Jiufen, absolutely spot on time. Immediately, we made a beeline for the bus stop in Resident square, taking the 1062 bus to our final destination.

Now I just want to say a word or two about Taiwans Easy Card system, since that is what we have been using to get around, since we arrived on Wednesday. When we alighted at Taipei main station, we purchased the 'Easy Card' from the local ticket office. You can top this card up at any time, and use it to pay for everything, from train, bus, and boat travel, to groceries and restaurants across the whole of the country, not just in Taipei.

This is the best system of integration I have ever seen, and is so easy to use and top up, using one of the many machines, at stations and other participating outlets. Despite the creaking nature of Taiwan's infrastructure in places, this little card is a blessing for a tourist like me, and has allowed us to travel throughout this city was complete ease!

The ten-minute drive to Jiufen, was hair-raising to say the least, with the bus taking corners so fast, I feared for my life at times. Even Darrell was firmly strapped into his seat, just wishing for the bus ride to be over as quick as possible.

We definitely made the right decision to come early to Jiufen. The narrow tiled streets were completely empty and quiet, giving us time to walk patiently around, without being hassled by shop vendors and restaurateurs. This was actually the most relaxed I have felt since being in Taiwan; I would certainly advise anyone travelling to Jiufen to get there as early as possible, just to get a feel of the place, before the hoards of tourists arrive!

We stopped and had a coffee, and in my case, a carrot juice, in a beautiful café overlooking the ocean. Sadly I just can't remember the name, but it was set over three floors, right on the corner, of one of Jiufen's main streets. It offered panoramic views of the coastline and hills surrounding the city. It was a joy, sitting there, just breathing in the fresh sea air, before the heat really began to bite.

After morning coffee, we ventured back out into the street — it was packed. In that brief half an hour we were sat inside the restaurant, bus loads of tourists had arrived, and all the souvenir shops had opened their doors. This was of course a delight for me, since I love small 'nick nack' shops, selling tasteless fridge magnets, postcards and obje d'art. Part of the enjoyment of going on holiday, for me, is taking home little reminders; every time I look at them, I can be transported back to happy times in Asia. Darrell, on the other hand, can't stand the amount of stuff I bring home, and the money I spend. Still, after leaving all my belongings back in The UK, I've got a lot of stuff to make up for.

After walking the entire length of Jiufen, we went back to the same restaurant we had coffee in earlier, for a spot of lunch and a few beers. If I go to a place, and like it, I will return again and again. The restaurant was perfect in my book, if a little expensive, but then, who 'penny pinches' on holiday? I know I certainly don't. 

I ordered delicious homemade Taiwanese dumplings, some Tiramisu, (Clearly catering for western tastes) a large Taiwan Beer, and some warm Japanese Saki rice wine, which really hit the spot. The food, service, ambience, and atmosphere was just faultless, and given the opportunity I would return again and again. Sadly, I'm not sure when we will get back to Taiwan in the future, but unlike Vietnam, I would love to go back and relive my time here at the earliest opportunity.

To end our brief visit to Jiufen, we walked around to the other side of the mountain, this hillside city is built into, where we could see just how beautiful it is. It reminded me of our time in Sorrento and Amalfi in Italy, as well as the many holidays we spent with family in Croatia. Both of these places had similar mountainous, rocky coastlines — dramatic and awe-inspiring. Both Darrell and I agree (for a change) about just how special northern Taiwan is. I could have quite easily spent the whole holiday here, despite the thousands of tourists, and I am just thankful we had the opportunity to visit when we did.

I do worry about what will happen to Taiwan in the future, which is why we decided to go now, and not later. There is so much upheaval in the World at the moment, that neither Darrell nor I, are sure when we will leave Australia again. I suspect war is coming, but I am hopeful, the World can pull back from the brink before it's too late, and all of us can live our lives in peace. 

Whether we are British, Australian, Russian, or Taiwanese, we are all human, just trying to get by in this crazy World right now. This holiday is special, because it could be the last one we have until the political climate changes for the better. I have my fingers crossed for the future; I certainly didn't want to end this blog on a down note, but sometimes you just have to say what's on your mind, as I have done this evening, good or bad.

​Chao for now!